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KarlS

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Everything posted by KarlS

  1. Certainly no performance related tweeks from the GT3 RS were incorporated into the 2005 GT3, which was virtually identical to the 2004 model. There may have been some new colors for 2005 or a new option or two but nothing significant that I can recall. Karl
  2. One additional point to add to Loren's description. To remove the front calipers, you not only have to remove the 10 mm hex bolts but there is also a small bolt (8 mm if I remember correctly) that fastens the speed sensor cable to the wheel upright. You need to unscrew this in order to get the caliper off the rotor and hang it out of the way. It's not hard to do but it's easy to miss because it's hard to see unless you work from under the car. Karl
  3. Other than oil spots under the engine, you won't notice any performance issues and there is no danger of blowing the engine. Just keep an eye on the oil level but it usually doesn't leak fast enough to even need to add a liter between changes. Karl
  4. I don't see how a failed MAF would affest the ABS or PSM systems. It would throw a check engine light but I don't think it would affect braking or traction control. I suspect that what was happening on the track was you were threshold braking in a rough or bumpy part of the track. This will cause the ABS to go crazy cycling to try an regain traction. Eventually, it will give up and throw the ABS light. Since the same sensors are used for PSM, it makes sense that you could see a warning light there as well. Did you notice if the ABS warning was coming on in the same braking zone each time? Karl
  5. Thanks, Loren, it works great. Renntech is now part of My Yahoo home page. Karl
  6. One suggestion is that use a line wrench rather than a standard open end wrench to loosen the brake line nut where it connects to the caliper. I forget the size (I think 8 or 10mm) but a using an open end wrench risks damaging the nut, which will make the whole job much more painful. A line wrench (can be found at Sears or Snapon.com) wraps around 5 sides of the hex nut to prevent rounding it off. Also, buy a selection of rubber tips at an auto parts place to use to plug the end of the brake line when you remove it. This will prevent brake fluid from spilling all over and make the bleeding process a little easier. Karl
  7. Loren, Any plans to add RSS support for the forums? I'm looking for a faster way to check and respond to posts from multiple forums. Karl
  8. The traction control on the 99 models used the ABS system to sense slippage in the rear wheels under acceleration and then reduced ignition timing or applied the brakes to control the slip. On a wet road, it should help you get the car going in 1st gear without spinning tires and it will help you under acceleration in a corner even on a dry road. It is not PSM and therefore will not do anything to save the car if you take a corner too fast. It will only help under acceleration in a corner or on a wet surface. If you can break the rear tires loose under acceleration in a straight line on a wet road, it doesn't sound like the TC is working. You may want to have it checked by a dealer or good independent shop. Karl
  9. Hmm, I just had the RMS replaced in my GT3 and it took a week at the dealer. Part of that was waiting for the part but I talked to the tech and he told me he need special tools that had to be ordered and that the old RMS was a bear to get out. This didn't sound like a DIY job to me but I'll be interested to read the article. The mag is sitting in my TBR pile. Karl
  10. Unfortunately, Porsche does not sell parts to repair the G96 tranny. so replacing it is the only option when something fails. The tranny on my 1999 also failed for its new owner but fortunately I had transferred my extended warranty to the new owner. I think your options are to get a factory fresh tranny from the dealer or to buy the used tranny and hope it lasts. You probably want to consider how long you plan on keeping the car. You can probably save a little on labor by using an independent Porsche shop instead of the dealer but this is not a cheap job to do in any case. Karl
  11. You might want to try new clamps. I seem to recall a similar issue when I installed an aftermarket exhaust on my 996. I replaced the clamps with new ones and the problem went away. If I remember correctly, the new clamps didn't cost much. Karl
  12. Have they told you what is actually involved in this job? I'm no expert but from what I know of engine rebuilds, doing the head is much easier compared to getting into the case. Pulling the engine and tranny shouldn't be a big deal, assuming they have all the right tools. Once the engine is out, get the head off would seem pretty straight forward as well. You may want to talk to Kelly Moss or someone to see what's really involved. Maybe it's not that difficult. I don't think it matters too much which dealer you take it to. I doubt if any of them actually do much engine rebuilding, especially on the late model cars. I know my dealer usually subs out that work to a race shop near by. BTW, if you talk to Kelly Moss you may want to ask if they actually do the rebuild work inhouse. There aren't many people who can do it and it's not all that profitable, so many shops end up subbing it out. Karl
  13. I suspect that by increasing the rear tire width (from 265 to 285) but not changing the front, all you will do is increase the inherent understeer that's already designed into the car. I would suggest sticking with the 265 size unless you want to spend the money to change all four, in which case, I would suggest a set of Michelin Pilot Sport PS2 in a 245/40 and 295/30 configuration. BTW, are you sure the Sport Design front rims are 7.5"? I thought they were 8". If the front wheels are only 7.5", then you are pretty much stuck with the tire size you have. Any wider tire up front will require at least an 8" rim. Karl
  14. Congrats, you chose the easiest approach. You can also do it, as you suggested, by removing the calipers but that's a lot more work and then you have to make sure to torque the calipers properly. I find that the trick to get the pistons to fully retract is to apply pressure to all 4 at the same time. This is easier to do with the old pads still in. You can use a wrench or long screwdriver to pry on the ears of the pads and get them to spread but I prefer a pad spreading tool, which is available from many auto parts places. I have a nice BMW tool that I got from the ultimategarage.com that makes retracting the pistons a piece of cake. Karl
  15. I tore the leather headliner in my 99 C2 w/ sunroof and had it replaced. I think the headliner was around $500 and I had it installed at a local automotive upholstery shop for under $300. Karl
  16. Headers will not give you 12 HP either. I've seen test results for many of the after market headers and mufflers that were done by a tuning shop (ie neutral party). The majority of them actually made less or equal HP to the stock exhaust system. With CAD systems and what not, the PAG engineers are just not leaving that much on the table. There are a few systems that will make a little more power but to get anywhere near 12 you'd need to swap the entire system, not just the headers. As for 20 HP from a remap to a NA engine, it's not going to happen. I had one of the leading chip tuners spend a day working on my GT3. After almost 30 dyno runs, the best we could do was 10 HP max. As Scouser said, the only way to get more than about 20 Hp from bolt-ons is to get a supercharger. Anything else is a waste of money although there are a lot of people out there who have spent the money and are now experiencing the placebo effect. Karl
  17. The exhaust system on the 996 follows this path - headers connect to the cats, cats connect to the mufflers, mufflers connect to the exhaust tips. A muffler bypass pipe eliminates the mufflers by connecting to the cats on one side and has its own exhaust tip. By bypassing the mufflers you save the weight of the mufflers (around 50 lbs) and get a louder exhaust with no impact to emissions since the cats are still in place. You also don't have problems with back pressure, since the initial back pressure that is seen by the heads comes from the cats, not the mufflers which are farther down stream. A custom exhaust shop can make up a muffler bypass pipe or you can buy them from places like Fabspeed (theirs is called SuperCup). Karl
  18. I doubt you'll see 40 Hp from the mods you mentioned. I put headers, Fabspeed mufflers, and a piggyback chip on a 99 C2 and saw a total of 18 HP on the dyno. I also ran the car on the track without the mufflers using Fabspeed Supercups and while the car was louder and lighter, I doubt there was any more HP. I'd suggest that rather than removing the cats, that you look into a muffler bypass instead. Muffler bypass pipes are readily available and will save considerable weight, if you can stand the noise. A cat bypass would not only make the car fail emissions, you'll have to get a custom pipe made up. You also have to be very careful when changing the exhaust back pressure on the M96. There are lots of changes and parts out there that will actually decrease HP. I'd suggest working with a reputable tuner and someone who will give you before and after dyno sheets. Karl
  19. The vibration dampers have a sticky side that faces the pads. To install a new set, you insert them into the piston, peel off the paper to expose the sticky surface and then insert the pads. The first time you apply brake pressure, the vibration dampers will get stuck to the pads, which is why you have to pry them off before you can remove the pads. If you are reusing the vibration dampers, simply leave them in the pistons or reinsert them if they have fallen out. If the sticky surface has lost some of its stick, you may try putting a light coating of high temp glue so they will stick the the pads better. Karl
  20. Dell, Installing the anti-squeal shims should help. It's also important that if you are reusing the pads to make sure that you install them on the same side of the caliper as they came out of. Also, you didn't mention if you also changed the rotors. If you did, you need to bed the pads with the new rotors. Karl PS Don't spray or use any anti-squeal stuff on your pads or rotors. The shop manuals warn against this very explictly.
  21. The main reason the exhaust systems are different is that the TT exhaust incorporates the turbo inline with the exhaust system. The turbos themselves act as sort of a muffler, which is why some TT owners will remove the cats and run a straight pipe exhaust off the turbos. Every part of the exhaust system on the TT is different than the C2, so you would have to get someone to make you up a custom set of headers that replace the C2 headers and could bolt directly to the TT muffler/cat system. There may still be problems with the O2 sensors and the ECU even if you did this. There may also be driveability problems because you are messing with the designed backpressure of the exhaust system. You'd be better off to either get an aftermarket muffler, most of which are lighter than the stock unit, or get a set of muffler bypass pipe (very LOUD) and can the mufflers altogether. Karl
  22. Loren, Do you have any pics or shop manual diagrams of the reference points mentioned in the spec? Karl
  23. Another option would be to install an Alpine unit with a pop-up screen. I put one of these in my truck and it works great. The head unit should fit in the parcel shelf in the front console and the DVD reader will fit under the passenger seat. The unit is DVD based so you never have to worry about swapping CDs. The only downside is that the updates are 2-3 times the cost of a CD update, so I don't do them as frequently. Karl
  24. It's possible to install the TP in place of the CDR-23 but you'll lose the 6 CD changer, since the TP doesn't support MOST. The only real issues I encountered were: 1) They changed the antenna connector between 2002 and 2003, so you need to get an adapter cable. I went to Circuit City and talked with one of their installers and he hooked me up with the right cable. Don't bother to talk to a salesperson, they don't have a clue. 2) You have to disconnect the wire that is used for CAN bus communication with the dash, otherwise, it thinks there is an invalid head unit in the car and it does weird things - like shut down the A/C. If you disconnect the wire, the dash unit just asssumes there is no head unit installed and everything works normally. Karl
  25. KarlS

    RS Flywheel

    A GT3 owner who posts on Rennlist has done this mod and seems to be happy with it. No driveability issues according to him. I don't think he did any remapping of the DME and I doubt the extra 100 rpm buys you much, the torque is already dropping off by 7800, so rev'ing it higher isn't going to get much. The part numbers are: 964.102.239.31 flywheel 964.114.143.31 ring gear Karl
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