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Haha - yeah. A lot of effort for something that is easily and relatively cheap to replace; maybe I can gut it and get something for the aluminum. Appreciate the help and insights.
I can send you my old one if you want to polish up on the skill and rebuild this one, otherwise I'm sending it to the dump. Thanks for the part # and the price tag. I checked Sonnen and they have it listed for $118. Not a bad savings difference. It should be here tomorrow or Saturday.
Update: I removed the slave cylinder last night and saw I had hydraulic fluid on the arm side of the cylinder. It looks like I have a bad slave. Since I did not see any hydraulic leak on the ground (or very little), I imagine it leaked into the bell housing and the leak drops came from where the bell housing bolts up to the engine. Leaking: IMG-4537.mov
Thanks, It looks like I'll be removing they hydraulic slave and checking it out. I followed the clutch bleed DIY and I wasn't able to bleed the thing after about two hours. I applied about 18 PSI positive air flow from the reservoir side and nothing but a couple of drops came out of the bleeder end with no change in the clutch pedal feel. It's acting like the slave arm that rests against the fork inside the bell housing is non-existent. I started the car to see if I could get it into gear with the clutch to the floor, and it didn't happen. Thanks flatjoe - I'll take a look at this too as a cause. More to come on this...
Thank you Loren. I'll give this a try when I get home.
Thanks Loren. I did check the pedal mechanism and nothing seems to be binding or sticking. A follow up question: When I use the pressure bleeder (Motiv), depress and hold the clutch pedal down and open the slave bleeder valve, should the positive pressure push/force fluid through the line from the reservoir to the bleeder to have a constant flow? This is what I expected to happen, but I did not see it.
Loren - yes, I did. I'm going to try it again tomorrow. When I got to step 2, there was some air that came out and a very small amount of fluid, but nothing continuous in the collection tube.
2000 996 C2. About a week ago, the clutch would engage, but not return to normal position. I was thinking air got into the line and I decided to bleed the line. I pressurized the reservoir, depressed the clutch and opened they hydraulic slave bleeder valve. When I did this, a little bit of air came out, but fluid trickled into the collection tube. Now, the clutch goes to the floor and will not recover to normal position. I can manually pull the clutch pedal up, but when I depress the clutch, the pedal springs to the floor and does not recover. when the hydraulic line is pressurized, not fluid comes out of the bleeder valve. The only time a spurt of fluid comes out is when I manually pull and push the clutch pedal (clutch pedal stays depressed). I am thinking its the hydraulic slave, but it could also be a bad throwout bearing/fork. Is there a definitive way to determine which one it might be based on my description above? There wasn't any clutch slippage or problems with the clutch until recently when the clutch pedal would not recover to normal position. I did notice a small hydraulic fluid drops under the 996; there are not cracks or any other leakage spots. Thanks, Ken
Hobbes replied to Hobbes's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Update: Problem resolved. I replaced the accelerator position sensor under the dash. I've been able to drive without power loss; I even noticed a little quicker acceleration.
I'm looking for some help to diagnose an intermittent engine power loss problem I've been having over the pass several months. I have a 2000 996 C2 with ~180K miles. Problem: The 996 runs great typically on short drives, <75 miles. With prolonged driving the 996 will suddenly lose power with the engine bogging down as if going into limp mode for about 5 seconds then full/normal power is restored. After the first occurrence of this event during the drive, the event will happen again about 60-90 seconds later, then lose power again for 5 seconds. As I continue to drive the 966, the frequency of the cycle increases going from 60-90 seconds to every 25-30 seconds; however, the bogging period last only 3-5 seconds per event cycle regardless of the frequency of the event. This cycle of events only after extended periods of driving. There is no CEL or fault codes from Durametric or OBDII scan tools. I've replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. I cleaned the ground points and positive terminals. Coils and spark plugs replaced. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF. I replaced the throttle body (TB) with a spare to include the throttle position sensor on the TB. Given all of this, I am leaning towards the E-gas sensor just off the accelerator pedal (PN: 99660611500 / 99660611502) given the age and miles on the 996, my inclination is that this sensor is going bad, but I'm not entirely convinced since the problem only presents itself when a certain amount of driving occurs. If it were this sensor, I would think I would experience the problem shortly after startup and driving, but I may be wrong with this assumption. The short video shows the symptoms of the problem while driving. Thanks, Ken IMG_4311.mov
Just a quick update - I put in the new Y cable and it fixed the low voltage issue I was having. If you have a low voltage reading, check the cable before buying new parts. The first picture is the voltage reading prior to fix. Second picture is after the fix (under load - A/C), Third picture is with no load.
I want to share an experience I had with my 2002 996. For the past several months, after a cold start, my initial volts held steady at 13.8v indicated. As I drove around, I had problems with the voltage dropping to 12.5-13 volts without any accessories turned on after the car reached operating temperatures ~180 degrees. Once I turned on the A/C, the volts dropped below 12. This has left me having to jump the car a few times. First thoughts typically range from a bad battery, alternator to starter. Like many, I headed to the local parts store to have the battery, alternator and starter tested - all passed. Second reaction is to clean the terminals on the battery and grounding points, yet the problem persists and leave a few scratching their heads. I checked voltage drops between components, I checked for AC volts to see if I had a bad diode, and recharged my battery. In my research, Porsche 996/997s have a well known issue within the community that the positive wiring from the junction box to the starter to the alternator tend to go bad prematurely - corrosion typically seen on the starter wiring. What happens as I understand it is that when the car is cool, the wire coming off the starter is cool and electrons flow fairly easily (note the initial 13.8v at start up). As the car heats up, so does this wire and in doing so, the heat coupled with the corrosion reduces the overall voltage/amps going to the alternator making the alternator operate sub optimally thereby reducing available voltage at operating temperatures (12.5-13v). When the accessories are turned on, more volts/amps are needed, but the alternator is struggling to put it out while maintaining the average 13.8-14.2v seen on healthy cars. I pulled the alternator and starter to have them tested independently removed from the car. In doing so, I visually inspected the wiring harness connecting these components. As I did this, I noticed pretty bad corrosion on the wire coming off the starter as you can see in the pictures. I knew immediately what my problem was given an all 'pass' on my battery, alternator, and starter at the parts store. I ordered a replacement. Even though my problem was pretty obvious after seeing the wire, I recommend getting the individual parts tested as they will be out anyway when replacing the wire. It's still good practice to clean all the grounding points (engine to chassis, battery terminals, etc). I hopes this helps others having similar problems. Ken
Thanks rockhouse66. I agree with you as an option. In 1999, C4 996s had something called Traction Control, which was the predecessor to PSM. In 2000, I believe Porsche officially called it PSM which was an option as you said except for C4 where it was a standard. I'm trying to get more info from the seller at the moment, or find the previous owner to ask him directly. Thanks for the '0' correction. Ken
Thanks for all the information. JFP - I did check out the website, but I will have to look at it more closely this evening. My gut is telling me there is a greater than 50% chance it did have PSM, but then again, I did have Mexican food last night and my gut readings could be a little off. Keith - I'll have them take a picture of the rear side fuze panel so I check the terminals. Loren - That is what I thought as well. When I did the conversion 3.4 to 3.6 I did get a 2002 main wiring harness. After I installed it and started connecting all the connectors, the harness didn't have connectors that went into the pre-charge pump, dash button, steering wheel sensor and rate of turn sensor. I was able to make and run wires to each of the components to get it to work. However, I am doing some more work in the cabin where I'll have to take out the dash. I figured since it would be out, I'll put the proper harness back in. Worst case, I can buy the harness. If it's not the correct one, I can resell it on eBay or find another DIY looking for a 2002 996 harness. Ken
I'm looking for some help identifying if a 2002 996 is equipped with PSM or not. The problem is that the 996 is salvaged and stripped leaving only the components. I am interested in the main wiring harness. The seller no longer has the scrapped car so going back to the original car is not possible. Neither is driving to see the harness in person as this is an internet purchase. What I do have is the VIN for the 996 and a picture of the fuse box. The VIN is WPOCA29932S654036. According to the fuse box, Row E, positions 9 and 10 are the fuses for PSM. In non-PSM equipped 996s, these two slots are typically open (without fuses). In the attached picture, there is a fuse in position 9 (PSM), but not 10 (PSM). Before I make the purchase I want to be sure the original car this harness came from has the appropriate wiring for the additional sensors and pre-charge pump required for a PSM equipped 996. Any help is appreciated. Thanks