Hobbes

Can someone confirm that the harness in the attached pictures is for a Boxster or a 996 (both 2002)?  I am replacing the front harness and saw one on Ebay.  The seller advertised it as a 2002 911 996.  I believe the pictures show a Boxster harness and not a Carrera because, there are only two connectors on the front harness(in the pictures), and three on the rear harness. 

Thanks!

I ordered a new release lever for my 2000 C2.  The part number is 996.116.712.03.  This part number is superseded by part number 997.116.712.01.  There is a physical difference between the two, but most noticeable difference (photo 13) is the 'rounded' grooves.  The new part does not have the same grooves.

There is also a piece, called an intermediate piece that goes inside the transmission where the release spring goes (photo 12)

In the original release lever (on the left in photo 12), the grooves fit nicely into the intermediate piece.  However, on the new release lever, it does not have these same grooves; as a result, it's very difficult to attach the release lever to the transmission side when the intermediate piece is on there.

My question:  With the new release lever, is there also a new (different design) intermediate piece?  I noticed the intermediate part number is the same regardless of the release level design; or do I just need to apply more pressure to get the release lever on over the spring?  I can provide more pictures and explanation if needed.  Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks JFP.  I've done a lot of reading and the bearing fork seems to be a likely candidate.  I am trying to rule out the relatively simple stuff before dropping the transmission - though, it's not that difficult to do in of itself.  Looks like I have something to do next Saturday. 

I assume the forks do go bad over time.  The one in there has about 140k on it.  I don't think I will need a new throw out bearing (replaced when I did the clutch recently), but may be worth replacing since I'll be in there.

I did the clutch myself.  I replaced it when I first got the car in 2007, then again a few months ago.  The car drove fine and didn't have any issues with it until recently (@2 weeks the problem first started).  Then, I replaced the slave cylinder.  I wondering if the master cylinder is going bad...

I have a 2000 996 C2.  I am having some transmission issues.  I replaced the clutch and flywheel about 8 months ago with my engine upgrade to a 3.6.  I first noticed a problem when my clutch pedal was soft and sticking to the floor only returning about 1/4 of the way before using my foot to pull it back up.  This problem seemed indicative a bad slave cylinder and/or air in the system. I wasn't leaking any fluid, but when I pulled the slave cylinder the internals were pushed out of the housing.  I ordered another slave cylinder and replaced it this weekend.  I ended up blowing the internals (x 2) again :censored: causing much fluid to leak out from the transmission housing.  I removed the slave and re-seated the internal cylinder.  First question is if re-seating the internals of the slave valid?  Is pushing the internal cylinder back inside the housing okay and everything is good to go? 

At any rate, I reinstalled the slave cylinder.  No more fluid leak, but its very difficult to get it into any gear while running;  I have to push fairly hard to get it into the gear I want (.  Plus, I can't get it into reverse while the car is running.  When I attempt to put into reverse, there is an audible dull thud.  Additionally, the clutch only returns to about 3/4 of the way up.  Side note:  My brakes work perfectly fine.

Are the problems I am describing indicative of air in the clutch hydraulics or something more serious? I can provide more information if necessary.  Any help with diagnosing this problem is much appreciated?

I checked the clutch cables at the shifter and on the transmission; everything is fine.  They are all connected and have not popped out of their brackets.

Thanks.

When I did my update, I converted my 2000 5.2 DME to the 7.2 DME.  Along with this conversion, I also changed out my ABS 5.3 to the ABS 5.7 Control Module.  This was primarily because when I converted my 2000 engine to the 2002 engine, I had to change out a number of things, the instrument cluster, DME and essentially all the electronics that go with the 2002 to include the ABS 5.7, wheel speed sensors, rear wiring harness, etc.  I did have to buy the car side electrical connector that fits into the 5.7 controller which required me to splice the wires from the car side into the new connector because I did not upgrade the front wiring harness.  This was problematic because the front wheel speed sensors connectors are different between the 2000 and 2002 as you said above.  Ideally, the front wiring harness that has the newer type connectors (staggered) is the way to go.  The rear wheel sensors are what's needed to register the speed on the instrument cluster.  All four sensors receive signals from each wheel for the ABS to work correctly and the ABS control module applies the appropriate level of 'breaking' to maintain control of the 911 in adverse driving conditions, aggressive driving, etc.

I hope this helps.  If you have more questions, let me know.

I sent you a PM.

 

Bummer, sorry to hear about that. May I ask why did you end 20 degrees off and what you did wrong or forgot to do before starting your engine? Also, did you by any chance turn your crank multiple times over by hand before starting your engine?

 

In any case, enjoy your new 3.6L  :thumbup:

 

I realized that I was off TDC before I started it and put it back into the car.  What I ended up doing was loosen the camshaft sprokects and rotated the crank to TDC and used the alignment tool to lock in place.  Then I rotated the camshafts on each bank so they aligned up with the casing where the valve cover meets the block.  Everything indicated that it was TDC and the timing was set, but where I failed to check was if cylinder#1 was on compression or exhaust stroke.  I was 180 degrees off.  Minor oversight caused a big problem as you can imagine.

The 3.6 is nice, but it didn't come without headache.  I considered rebuilding my 3.4, but cost and time was equivalent to that of a used engine with less miles.  I decided to go with the upgrade.  It's been educational to say the least.

AWDGuy,

I was able to correct the problem which was worn belt tensioner pads on the camshaft drive chains.  however, when I put it all back together, my timing was off.  I was 20 degrees off TDC.  As a result, when I went to start it, I cracked cylinder #1 and exhaust valves on cyl #1.  I ended up purchasing and upgrading my engine to a 2002 3.6.

This should help with the A Pillar removal.

I did look at and compare the two diagrams.  In the 3-channel system, there is a "T" splitting the rear hydraulic lines compared to a the fourfold connector in the 4-channel system.  My assumption is the fourfold allows two brake lines from the hydraulic unit to come into a 'splitter' box that then runs to each of the rear brakes. 

One thing I do not see in either diagram is the vacuum line.  My attention was drawn to this due to the PET diagram and being associated with the intermediate piece.  I firmly believe the vacuum lines are already there based on PET and the service manuals, but I am not 100% sure this is the case.

History:  Converting 2000 ABS 5.3 (3-channel) to 2002 ABS 5.7 (4-channel).

I have questions regarding brake line parts converting a 3-chanel ABS 5.3 to a 4-channel ABS 5.7.  I have looked through the PET catalog and identified the parts I believe I will need and I am looking for confirmation.  I do not want to not order a part due to an oversight or order incorrect parts. 

Graphic 1:

#7  99635532605  - brake line.  This part number supersedes 99635532604

#8  99635565027 - Intermediate piece.

Graphic 2:

#(18) 99635517711 - brake line.  This part number supersedes 99635517707

#(21) 99635576031 - connecting piece fourfold.  This will split the rear brakes, but allow me to run a second brake line from the rear to the front of the car - the 4th channel.

#(22) 99635557107  - vacuum line.  I am not sure if I need this part and that it already exists on a 2000 C2.  Can someone please confirm this or will I need this?

Graphic 3:

#(1) 99635518907 - brake line.  This part number supersedes 99635518906.

#(8) 99635519056 - brake line.  This part number supersedes 99635519052.

#(14) 99635557506 - vacuum line.   am not sure if I need this part and that it already exists on a 2000 C2.  Can someone please confirm this or will I need this?

Thanks

Has anyone experienced a sudden loss of the digital and analog speed on the instrument cluster?  Could this occur if the CAN Drive BUS wires were swapped; meaning the CAN BUS High got crossed with the CAN BUS low. 

Once I hit about 30-45 second, the digital and analog speed drops to 0.  If I stop the car and restart, the speed comes back and then goes out again after 30 seconds.  Durametric doesn't throw any fault codes.

Check the left footwell near the fuse box. Plug position 6 is the daytime running light relay.

The bigger one you can ignore. It's supposed to be unplugged and it's used only for diagnostic purposes.

The smaller one looks like for fuel injector but many other sensors use that same BOSCH connector so I'm not sure.

Thanks. I double checked the all the injectors and all are connected when I put the engine in. the connector wire is not very long and I 'stretched' it out to see what it touches and all the places it did come in close proximity didn't have a place to plug it in. With the little bit of oil on it, I thought it was on the engine, but still no luck. Durametric isn't throwing any error codes. Right now, I'll assume the one doesn't have a purpose, but I'll look some more.

Can someone please help identify what the two connectors are for in the attach pictures. They are part of the right rear (passenger) body wiring harness that sits in the engine compartment. I don't have the male connectors for either plug. The engine is a 2002 3.6.

Thanks.

Success - but caveated :drive:

Perhaps you can use a multimeter to discover which one shows a resistance to ground that would jive for a thermresistor. If you know where the footwell sensor is then maybe blast with hairdryer and see which wires changes?

Measure the one on the bumper as the outside temp sensor to get an idea for the range?

Did you go through the 2000 HVAC Schematic and find all other sensors except the footwell one?

Yes, all other of the pins matched up to the new wiring except the footwell,. I think I will have to do the multimeter test to find this one out.

I am repining the wires from a H01 to a H02 HVAC CU. In this conversion Plugs A and C are not used.

On the body side, I have wiring for the H01 HVAC CU from a 2000 996 with four color plugs:

1 Black (large) - Connector D

1 Black (small) - Connector A

1 Beige - Connector C

1 Red - Connector B

For H01: According to the schematics, the 'Output Sensor Footwell', from connector B is pin #5. This wire is suppose to go into connector B, pin #7. The color of this wire is suppose to be BK (black), however there are no black wires in any of the connectors from the body side. After repining to the H02 HVAC CU, there are four wires from the H01 that remain homeless:

GY/GN

YE/RD

YE/BL

WT/GN

One of these four wires makes sense to be the output sensor footwell wire, but the colors don't jive. Can someone set me straight? Did Porsche decide to do something different, but not update the schematics?

The attached schematic portion in question is from the H01 (2000 Porsche HVAC CU).

Thanks...

I had to use a shop mirror with a flexible tip, and a flashlight along with a socket, swivel head and 6" extension. I used the mirror to see the bolt head. Then with a lot of patience, I fished the socket, swivel head and extension down between the first and second ribs of the upper intake. Using the mirror, I danced the socket head until I was aligned with the bolt head. See the attached.

Update: I was able to locate the pn for the ABS 5.7 Control Module connector: 3B0973042A

http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=749912

Todd - I spent some time this weekend looking over the clusters from the 2000 to 2002. I got nearly everything translated. There are some of the 2000 C2 pinouts that didn't fit into the 2002 pins, but I have to assume they were either removed or ran elsewhere. I'm pretty confident about the wiring cluster, however my current setup ABS is 5.3. I was comparing the 5.3 connector to the 5.7 and unfortunately, they are different. I'll have to figure out a way to make this work.

Thanks Todd. The good news is that I am getting everything you mentioned to include the ABS and HVAC controller all from the same 2002 3.6. I didn't think to get the ABS Wheel sensors, but I should be able to tack that on to my order. I'll check to see what is on my 996 with respect to the ABS, but feel safer just ordering it as not to delay any work. I do have egas (confirmed last night by throttle body examination).

I do have the wiring diagram(s) for my 2000. I'll need to find/locate the 2002 wiring diagrams.

What I bought from the 2002 996 3.6:

3.6 complete engine (40,100 miles)

ECU/DME 7.8

Wiring harness from ECU back to engine

Instrument cluster

Immobilizer

Ignition Key head

ABS Controller

HAVC Control

Engine is back in the car but I have a leak in the cooling system, it won't maintain vacuum with my airlift. New hose is supposed to be here today. Hopefully I will start it up this weekend. I have been a little distracted as I became a grandfather yesterday!

Congratulations on grandfather status! :cheers:

I have a PM to Todd about this. I'm still waiting to hear back. I'm trying to get smart on the conversion now before the stuff gets here next week. I did add the ABS and HVAC controller to my order, all from the same car.