Hobbes

Agreed. They have to justify the $$$. Thing is with these tips, unless you are on the ground looking up at the exhaust,y you won't even see them.

I got my set of 3.6 mufflers today. They came off of a 997. I took a look at the exhaust tips and noticed they had 'vents' on the inside. I was wondering what these things do, if anything. If they are cosmetic, great, otherwise any info would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Ken

:renntech:

Thanks for the feedback.

This is my DD. I've made several roadtrips in the 150-250 mile range here in the southwest (lots of long straight stretches on the interstate), but because I tend to drive a little faster I wanted to make sure the plug wear is consistent with 'normal' for the car. Some with triple digit speeds - I mean within the speed limit :) . All is good.

A local "german & japanese" shop told me my original Beru plugs were good for about 100K miles. I have not doubt I could have continued with what I had, but it gave me peace of mind to change them.

Ken

Juankimalo,

Loren pointed me in your direction about modding the 997 3.6s for a 996. I bought a set of 997 over the past weeknd, which should be here by this coming weekend.

I will also be doing the MKII mod. Father-in-law has a welder so I'll save some extra $$ on the weld.

The MkII mod sound is incredible thanks to listening to some of the post on youtube. I'm sure the real deal sounds much better than any recording will produce.

Do you know if the 997 3.6L MK II mod sounds any different (+/-) than 996 3.6L MK II. Either way, I'm sold on doing it, but I was just curious.

Other than what you posted here, are there any other 'lessons learned' in doing this mod?

Thanks,

Ken

Thanks for the spark plug guide.

All six plugs looked like the one in the picture. All plugs were tight, but easy to get out.

The rusty brown on the threads did raise an eyebrow. None of the rubber tubes were cracked.

Unfortunately, the previous owner did not keep any records of maintenance or any other work done on the car. The work I am doing is based on what i read form Renntech and other owners.

I do appreciate the help.

Regards,

Ken

I just finished replacing my spark plugs with the Porsche recommended Beru Ultra, 14FGR-6KQU, Porsche Part number 999.170.207.91. It was relatively easy to do following the DIY. After looking at the plugs, I noticed they were a bit dirty and the electrodes were a bit worn. My guess is the plugs are the original factory plugs when the car was built.

My car is a 2000 C2 996 with 66000 miles

Replaced MAF about two months ago (Clutch/RMS too) :D

I'm getting about 22 mpg HWY - about normal.

From the picture, is this normal or is there another issue I might need to be concerned with?

Side by side

Thanks,

Ken

After reading and doing some research, I decided to paint my calipers from black to a nice sharp yellow. Buying yellow calipers are pretty costly, and my current calipers are still pretty good. The task was pretty easy and done in a few hours. I thought I would share the before and after pictures. One thing to note, I recently replaced my front rotors, which were not painted. I slapped them on the car and in a couple of short months, they were rusted. So anyone who buys unpainted rotors, I highly recommend either getting them already painted, or buy a high-heat / caliper paint (or caliper paint kit @$38) and paint them yourself.

Here are a couple of before and after pictures. The PORSCHE lettering on the calipers were sanded off to allow for a more smooth surface. I ordered a set of decals from Ebay for less than $10. When they get here, they'll be added.

The final product on the car. I chose the yellow as a nice contrast to the blue and my wife didn't care for the red. You can definitely see the yellow over the black.

:drive:

Ken

Looks like I'm taking a trip to Albuquerque or Tucson to get new locks and a couple of keys.

All of this started because I wanted to repaint my calipers. I recently replaced my rear tires and the tire place tightened the bolts just a little to tight. When I tried to remove the lock bolt, I stripped my key.

So the lesson learned here is have them hand tighten the bolts and put the air tools to the side.

Ken

I appreciate the help with this. I checked for the key number card and I did not find one. I am the second owner so I'm sure the original owner discarded the info.

I checked the option panel under the hood and there the only number I could not account for as an option code is: 680-3839.

I checked all the local Autozones, Checkers, Pepboys, etc in the area and none of them could help. I also checked the local tire places and none have the keys. Pepboys could remove them, but they wanted $39.95 per tire to remove the key nut. I don't agree with extortion. My best course of action is probably to find any way possible to remove the bolts and then replace them with a new set and key.

I was in the process of removing my wheel using the wheel key (anti-theft wheel nut) and I ended up stripping the key itself. Short of having to drive 3 and a half hours to the closets Porsche dealer, is there anyone that can offer some assistance in helping me resolve my problem? Either having an 'extra' key on hand that I could buy or offer an alternative solution to get the bolts out?

I am the second owner of this car and I guess the first owner decided to throw away the key number so I can't call Porsche and re-order another key.

I've included a picture that may help.

2000 Porsche 996 with 18" inch factory rims.

Thanks.

Ken

I had a CEL. I checked for faults with durametric and found I had a P1128 - 02 Sensor bank 1. I cleared the fault and cleaned my MAF. No more CEL. But when I read the actual values and compared them to the tables above, I found something that doesn't come close to the numbers.

Hot film MAF Spec. rpm Adaption range 2 (FRA) bank 1 Adaption range 1 (RKAT) bank 1 Mass air flow sensor

14 700 1.02 -2.72 1.27

14 700 1.02 -2.72 1.27

14 700 1.02 -2.72 1.26

14 700 1.02 -2.72 1.27

14 700 1.02 -2.72 1.27

14 700 1.02 -2.72 1.25

14 700 1.02 -2.72 1.27

14 700 1.02 -2.72 1.27

14 700 1.02 -2.72 1.26

14 700 1.02 -2.72 1.26

My MAF sensor reading did change with an increase of RPMS, not significant (1.28/1.31). Anyone know what may cause these types of reading from the numbers i provided?

2000 996, 3.4

Thanks.

I appreciate the feedback. I haven't heard any wierd noises or anything unusal while driving. I'll keep an eye on it.

I found an oil leak on the garage floor. After reading much of the forum regarding RMS issues, I may be falling victim to the same. I took some pictures of the leak. Could some of the experts take a look and see if these are representative of the RMS problem or if it may be another issue.

2000 996, 3.4L C2

Much appreciated.

My Brake Wear warning light came on and I wanted to tackle the task of replacing my brakes. I was reading the DIY and it stated I needed "2 sets 996 612 365 00 Front and Rear Wear Sensors"

Before I purchase anything, I want to make sure I get the right stuff and quantity.

1. Is there a difference between the front and rear sensor?

2. Do I need a total of four for the entire job or is it two per wheel for a total of eight pieces?

Thanks,

Ken

Sorry for the late response, but yes, this does work with the Becker 220.

So the PIE Blau connector fits the Becker 220? That would be GREAT!!

Hi

Did you use the the brown wire from the phone cable for the ground? or attach the cround from the a PIE BLAU/8-3NPUT adapter to something else?

Thanks

Mike

Mike,

I did not use/splice the ground from the phone connector. I connected the grounds directly to the grounding bolt seen in the picture. I included a couple of pictures to show which ground option I used.

Ken

Ken:

Thanks for taking the time to post the fix. For future reference, which one of the microswitches was not "snapped" into place?

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice,

Sorry about that. I did not take any pictures of the switch or work (learning point for next time). However, this switch is the one just behind the interior door handle. As I pulled the panel off, the switch was connected right behind the door handle. In lieu of my crude explanation, I'll take some pictures and get them posted here.

Regards,

Ken

I got a picture that might help identify the switch

Hello,

I'm new to the forum, but have already read a wealth of knowledge to help answer some issues I am having with my 2000 996 Cab. I've been reading the articles about the door microswitches failing and it sounds like I am having a similar problem, but I want to ask the experts to confirm this.

1. Passenger door window does not close all the way up when the door is shut.

2. Interior lights stay on.

3. Using my remote key, 'locking' the car, causes the passenger window to close and interior lights turn off.

4. Being locked inside the car and waiting to exit, opening the door from the iside causes the window to go down as it is designed to do.

With these symptons, does it sound like 1 of the 3 microswitches is failing?

Perhaps a related issue: The interior door lock switch does not work when pushed. When I lock my vehicle with the remote, doors lock, all windows close and door lock light switch is on. When I push the switch to unlock the car from the inside, all doors unlock and interior lights come on. When I push the switch again, doors do not lock and interior lights stay on.

I appreciate any feedback/help with this.

Thanks,

Ken

Where are you located?

Perhaps there is a board member near you with a PST2 or PIWIS tester.

I am located in Las Cruces, NM, about 50 miles north of El Paso, TX.

I was able to fix this myself. Apparently, the previous owner had removed the passenger door panel and the microswitch was not 'snapped' into place when he put it all back together. This caused the entire microswitch to push away as I opened the door. Since it wasn't snapped, there was nothing pushing the tiny switch itself. I snapped it back into place and viola. Everything worked again. My interior door lock switch works. My passenger window closes all the way when I shut the door. Lastly, my interior lights go out after 30 seconds and/or when I start the car.

Ken

Ken:

Thanks for taking the time to post the fix. For future reference, which one of the microswitches was not "snapped" into place?

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice,

Sorry about that. I did not take any pictures of the switch or work (learning point for next time). However, this switch is the one just behind the interior door handle. As I pulled the panel off, the switch was connected right behind the door handle. In lieu of my crude explanation, I'll take some pictures and get them posted here.

Regards,

Ken

Hello,

I'm new to the forum, but have already read a wealth of knowledge to help answer some issues I am having with my 2000 996 Cab. I've been reading the articles about the door microswitches failing and it sounds like I am having a similar problem, but I want to ask the experts to confirm this.

1. Passenger door window does not close all the way up when the door is shut.

2. Interior lights stay on.

3. Using my remote key, 'locking' the car, causes the passenger window to close and interior lights turn off.

4. Being locked inside the car and waiting to exit, opening the door from the iside causes the window to go down as it is designed to do.

With these symptons, does it sound like 1 of the 3 microswitches is failing?

Perhaps a related issue: The interior door lock switch does not work when pushed. When I lock my vehicle with the remote, doors lock, all windows close and door lock light switch is on. When I push the switch to unlock the car from the inside, all doors unlock and interior lights come on. When I push the switch again, doors do not lock and interior lights stay on.

I appreciate any feedback/help with this.

Thanks,

Ken

Where are you located?

Perhaps there is a board member near you with a PST2 or PIWIS tester.

I am located in Las Cruces, NM, about 50 miles north of El Paso, TX.

I was able to fix this myself. Apparently, the previous owner had removed the passenger door panel and the microswitch was not 'snapped' into place when he put it all back together. This caused the entire microswitch to push away as I opened the door. Since it wasn't snapped, there was nothing pushing the tiny switch itself. I snapped it back into lace and viola. Everything worked again. My interior door lock switch works. My passenger window closes all the way when I shut the door. Lastly, my interior lights go out after 30 seconds and/or when I start the car.

Ken

The Durametric Tool does some special things with Porsches that factory tools costing thousands of dollars can do. So I don't thing you can compare that to a more generic ISO tool.

If you need the features of the Durametric software then you might want to consider it plus the Car Code OBD-2 Vehicle Explorer Scan Tool that I reviewed here.

Loren,

Thanks for the quick response. Looks like this is the piece I need for both the Porsche and BMW. The price dwarfs the other options.

Much appreciated,

Ken

I was looking at the durametric package forh my '00 996 Cab C2, but naturally, Durametric does not cover BMW's. I have a '03 BMW X5. I'm curious if anyone in the forum has a recommendation for a diagnostic tool for both BMW and Porsche.

Many Thanks,

Ken

I disconnected my radio doing some maintenance. When I reconnected everything, I had a **** on my radio asking to enter the code. Since I purchased this car from someone else, I do not have the radio code. Could someone please help me out.

Becker Radio

CDR 220

Type 4462

SN: X5037932

Much appreciated,

Ken

Try 3287

or

3285

Loren, 3287 worked perfectly. Many thanks!!

Ken

I disconnected my radio doing some maintenance. When I reconnected everything, I had a **** on my radio asking to enter the code. Since I purchased this car from someone else, I do not have the radio code. Could someone please help me out.

Becker Radio

CDR 220

Type 4462

SN: X5037932

Much appreciated,

Ken

Hello,

I'm new to the forum, but have already read a wealth of knowledge to help answer some issues I am having with my 2000 996 Cab. I've been reading the articles about the door microswitches failing and it sounds like I am having a similar problem, but I want to ask the experts to confirm this.

1. Passenger door window does not close all the way up when the door is shut.

2. Interior lights stay on.

3. Using my remote key, 'locking' the car, causes the passenger window to close and interior lights turn off.

4. Being locked inside the car and waiting to exit, opening the door from the iside causes the window to go down as it is designed to do.

With these symptons, does it sound like 1 of the 3 microswitches is failing?

Perhaps a related issue: The interior door lock switch does not work when pushed. When I lock my vehicle with the remote, doors lock, all windows close and door lock light switch is on. When I push the switch to unlock the car from the inside, all doors unlock and interior lights come on. When I push the switch again, doors do not lock and interior lights stay on.

I appreciate any feedback/help with this.

Thanks,

Ken

Where are you located?

Perhaps there is a board member near you with a PST2 or PIWIS tester.

I am located in Las Cruces, NM, about 50 miles north of El Paso, TX.