Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

logray

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    2,121
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by logray

  1. Hey there from Hollywood and welcome. IMHO, if there are not any issues (no misfires/hesitation/issues when wet/cracked/etc.), then no unless you are doing it as a preventative measure. You can try to search you may be able to ohm out (test with multi meter) your coil packs to see if they are operating fine electrically.
  2. Check all your hoses, perhaps you missed one and it was dumping hot coolant all over the place causing smoke. Of course, the low coolant light would start to flash, followed by...
  3. I am not 100% positive, but from what I can tell at least according to Pelican Parts who lists these companies as OEM suppliers to Porsche (there could be others as well). "Textar" supplies pads to Porsche. "Zimmermann Coat Z" and "Sebro" supply rotors to Porsche.
  4. There should be many aftermarket alternatives at your local reputable parts source. Aftermarket rotor examples (might have different brand name in Europe). Zimmermann Coat Z, Balo, Sebro, Centric, DBA, Brembo Aftermarket pad examples (might have different brand name in Europe). ATE, Textar, Mintex In the USA for alternatives we would go to pelicanparts.com or tirerack.com for example. Not sure about Greece. If the rotors are not too far out of spec, they can be resurfaced and then you only need to replace the pads and springs. Brake grease and cleaner are also recommended but do not have to be Porsche brand. Front 99635140501 Left Rotor 99635140601 Right Rotor 99635294903 Pads (contains 4 pads) 99635195901 Spring/Clips 1 required 99661236500 Wear Indicator Per Pad Set (if the warning indication is on your dash) Rear 99635240104 Rotor (left or right) 99635293903 Pads (contains 4 pads) 99635295901 Spring/Clips 1 required per axle set 99661236500 Wear Indicator Per Pad Set (if the warning indication is on your dash)
  5. Could be variocam actuator. Lifters. Chains. Chain tensioner. Those are some of the internal engine items. Could be a lose/bad spark plug. Could be a lose/bad seal on an exhaust header.
  6. Not in manuals. Disconnect spark leads to coil packs. Disconnect fuel fuse (look at fuse card on fuse panel). Be sure engine is warm.
  7. The tube I am most suspecting connects to the opening on the y-plenum circled in red. The other end of that tube goes to the air oil separator. It could also be a leak in the tube itself, if not the connector or the o-ring.
  8. I wasn't speaking about the AOS specifically going bad. That is in a totally different part of the engine (on the top of the drivers side towards front of car). What I was talking about is... There is a tube that goes from the AOS to the y-plenum behind the throttle body. The connector for that tube is right on the y-plenum behind the throttle body just above where you are mentioning you see grime. That tube (and it's connector at the y-plenum behind the throttle body) has a rubber o-ring that can go bad over time and leak or the tube itself can separate from the connector to the T/B or it might not even be properly connected. It is very hard to detect small leaks in the oil filler tube without a smoke machine (crack could be in the bottom of a pleat). Chances are if it hasn't been replaced in 12 years it might have a leak (it is plastic). Mine literally just broke off after 12 years. As for the intake plenum, it could be one of the large rubber boots are damaged, or a clamp not tightened down fully. Some of these items would also probably be accompanied by a rougher than normal idle.
  9. I replaced mine when I overhauled the top end on my engine. It was much less messy a job with the oil drained from the engine. While I was in there I did the piston, LN billet hex driver, and all of oil pump related o-rings, seals, and gaskets. My spring was fine after 75k miles. I've read about this issue on a turbo as well.
  10. Guesses. Leak from oil filler tube (accordian thing in lower right of your pic) Leak from intake plenum itself. Leak from AOS tube going into T/B above that area.
  11. Nice work. This is the pressure spring located at the rear of the engine underneath inside of the oil pump.
  12. Another thing that can sometimes be useful to diagnose a problem remotely is to record a brief clip of the audio and/or video using a smartphone / camera / etc. and upload to this website or youtube.
  13. There are a lot of noises from these engines that are considered normal. That being said, if it wasn't there before but it is now then there could be a problem. What weight and type of oil are you running? And is it filled properly? Can you describe the noise some more. Cold/warm start. Ticking, knocking, chain like, etc. Approximately where in the engine it is coming from (needs a helper and optionally a lift/jack stands)?
  14. The first time I spent a whole day dropping it. The second time, about 4 hours including short lunch. It's actually pretty fun to do once you've done it before. Thank you again, Ill keep an eye out for those in need.
  15. I think he may have just meant camshaft actuator....? might explain why cam bank 2 deviation is -12. Or perhaps just a bad cam sensor?
  16. You see though, even the updated IMSB in the 2005-2008 cars is only as strong as the original 1999-2000 dual row. It too can fail... it is an inherent design issue with the M96/M97 engine. "Engines replaced or vehicles purchased in or after MY2006 [and some MY2005's] should have the revised, larger single-row IMS bearing, identifiable by a larger 22mm nut in the center of the IMS hub flange. This uses a very large 6305 single-row bearing with a load rating similar to the dual row 6204 bearing compared to the earlier single row 6204 bearing which has about 2/3rds the load rating of the 6305." Again though my two cents is to not let it get to you... there aren't enough statistics, and while there are some failures out there, some of it is real and some of it is smoke. IMHO I would rather have a serviceable bearing that doesn't require total engine tear-down and buy the IMS Guardian from flat 6 in order to get pre-preemptive failure notification, then retrofit a bearing if I need to. In some percentage of cars over 85% (my own guess), their bearings could last forever. If you really want to get away from the design issue you need a 2009+ car.
  17. Hey Phillip, Yes, I wish there would be a mass Porsche recall for the IMS, but with an aftermarket solution available, doubt it will happen (did Pelican ever get their solution going as well? less expensive IMSB). HEY the car is RUNNING AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!! I think there is a lingering issue though with either too much fuel in bank 1 or perhaps worn piston rings in the entire bank. I'm not tearing into the car again at this point. Funny you should ask about the loctite. When I was tearing the engine apart I damaged my bank 1 variocam actuator. It failed about 1 week after I reinstalled the engine. So last week, out came the engine again to remove the cam cover and replace the solenoid. When I buttoned everything back up I went ahead and used BLUE loctite on all the internal hardware. And since the engine was dropped again I removed bank 2's covers and loctited those as well. BTW did you want your stuff back!!!! ????? THANKS AGAIN!!!!!! :-) :cheers::cheers::cheers:
  18. One straight forward and relatively easy thing to do is remove the alternator again and take it to a parts store such as Napa. In about 5 minutes they will bench test it on their very expensive machine and perform a lot more tests than what just a simple multi meter can do. They will even get you a print out and tell you how well it is performing/etc and whether it needs to be replaced (or how soon). Even though you are reading OK voltage, there are other factors to a properly working alternator such as amp draw, etc. Edit: see you are in Italy, but at least in the USA we are able to take our parts to a car parts store and have these things tested for free.
  19. Did you get the car up to operating temp and did it overheat? Did you refill the coolant system according to procedure (to ensure no air pockets?) Perhaps the fuel lines aren't reconnected and there is a leak causing less than required fuel on the 4-6 side (the fuel enters the 1-3 rail side as you know). You could try swapping coil packs from side to side to see if the misfires follow.
  20. I would sell the car and buy a turbo. There is much more to a turbo than just the motor and gearbox. Better cooling, better suspension, etc. etc. etc. But... if the financial doesn't make sense and you are dead set on more power, the only thing I would consider in this department is to supercharge it. http://www.vf-engineering.com/vf_old/996-34.htm There are a couple members here who have SC their NA 996's with good success.
  21. Thanks for the clarification Phillip! Some more info regarding years and which bearing they have: "All MY97-99 vehicles with their original engines will require a dual row retrofit kit. MY00-01 vehicles may need either a dual row or single row retrofit kit, so you'll need to inspect the flange, as shown below to be sure which will be needed. MY02-05 will need a single row retrofit kit, although depending on how late the build date was, there may be some MY05 vehicles with the updated M97 IMS, which is not serviceable, at least without teardown of the engine. If your vehicle has a replacement engine, expect to find the prevailing bearing used by Porsche in those years. If the engine was made for MY06 or later, it will have the late revision, larger IMS bearing which is not serviceable." Courtesy http://www.lnengineering.com/ims.html I have also seen some threads recently about new Porsche engines (including rebuilt or new original M96 engines) having the larger non-serviceable (without complete teardown) IMS bearing.
  22. 2005 is the year when they moved to a larger bearing. If you buy a 1999 model year engine from Porsche today, they will install the larger unserviceable bearing. However I've read about potential for failure even with the new bearing. Only the very newest model 911's come with an engine designed without the bearing. My personal opinion is there is not enough data about bearing failure to warrant being worried about it when considering a purchase or even driving your own car. Just stay away from early model year 1999 through 2004 ish cars - especially those with low miles. If you purchase a CPO car, you'll have nothing to worry about regardless. And if you want extra security, you can buy the IMS Guardian from flat 6 innovations which will still alert the driver of potential for disaster all the way up to model year 2008 - although one might question what they do if they get a warning - since the bearing is not replaceable (whole shaft) without complete engine dismantling.
  23. Richard, What is the source of those documents? Thanks.
  24. 66X is a 1999 M96-01 engine, and the serial numbering following that is in line with normal production. So why does someone think it would be a replacement? Does it have blue paint anywhere near the oil pan area on the case?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.