Dus10R

So I got a crack in my windshield worthy enough to replace. A friend of mine owns a glass repair company and knows everything there is to know about glass so I called him. He tells me that the only after market glass available for 997's comes from a Chinese company. he said they're the best of the Chinese companies but it's still Chinese which means its a copy of a copy.

He then warned me that insurance would fight me on wanting to replace the glass with OEM which is the only high quality glass availble.

So as I have a zero deductible glass policy with Progressive, I called them to file the claim. I told them I had done my own research and that I found out that the only aftermarket glass availble for 997's is Chinese and that I refused to accept a Chinese glass. I told them that I wasn't opposed to aftermarket glass as long it came from a European manufacturer (knowing there were none). So they told me that they would have to call Safelite (their preferred vendor) and verify what I told them. And then if the car needed OEM that I could be out of pocket for the excess amount beyond what they think the job should cost.

So they called Safelite and Safelite verified that the only aftermarket company for windshields is Chinese and they even agreed that installing a Chinese glass in a high end car would not last as the glass doesn't fit perfectly and if it rcvd even the smallest rock chip would spider and then need replacing again.

So Progressive agreed to replace with OEM Porsche glass at no additional cost to me.

SCORE!

So if anybody needs to replace a windshield, just know that the only aftermarket option is Chinese. Doesn't sound like a big deal but windshields nowdays are structural elements of the car. Most after market companies just copy glass from the OEM, and the copy never fits exactly like the OEM glass. So when the installers install it, it doesn't fit exactly and so they have to force it into shape a bit which means the glass is under higher stress when they epoxy it down. Hence why the stuff spider cracks if it gets hit by a fly.

Yeah, no more 8K oil changes...the TBN showed me that. Funny that Blackstone says anything below 1 is bad. I cut open my oil filter and found zero metal particles. I even ran a magnet through my oil and pulled almost nothing out. I think if piston rings were wearing out, or cylinder liner, etc, that I would have smoke on start and I would be burning oil. I'm not kidding when I say I didn't add a drop of oil in 8,000 miles, so I don't think anything is going on. I did change my oil brand, from Royal Purple XPR (this sample) to Miller's NanoDrive. Will change it at 6K this time and send off a sample. The Moly content doesn't bother me as I run a Tungsten Disulphide Nano additive too which I'm sure has some Moly in it. Yeah, I don't know how Porsche claims to get away with 15K oil changes. Does anybody have a sample of recommended Mobil 1 run to that distance?

Just an FYI, Porsche recommends not letting your car warm up at idle. In fact they say to drive it immediately after starting it just don't go over 3,500 RPM's till it warms up. I've been doing it that way for years and I have no smoke on start up, and car burns zero oil in over 8,000 miles.

Well I got my oil sample back today... Doesn't concern me much and actually gives me some peace of mind. But this is a base line so won't know what's really going on till I can see some trends in the future.

I run a oil additive too which probably accounts for some of the tin and moly. The other high spots appear normal to me for the mileage interval between oil changes.

My having to add zero oil in over a year concerned me a bit and I expected to see maybe some fuel dilution, water or antifreeze, which was causing a false reading on my oil gauge but I guess that's not the case. It's really not burning any oil. Awesome! The viscosity is lower than what they say it should be but I run an additional radiator and a lower temp thermostat and my oil temps never get above 200F so that doesn't bother me too much. The TBN is good and the insolubles % is low. The Zinc and other anti-wear compounds are stellar. Not bad for a higher mileage 3.8.

$26 a quart? From where? I need the name... I paid $39.95 from Suncoast and they're one of the cheapest (or so I thought)

When I first bought my '06 Carrera S, I immediately put it in my local INDY shop to have all common maintenance items addressed as at that point I did not have the maintenance records on the car, and the dealer I bought it from was clueless as to it's service history. (I stole it price wise so I wasn't concerned with perfection, side note: I later tracked down the maintenance records to find that the car had been serviced religiously, Thank you Lord)

My INDY shop did an oil change, brake check, brake fluid swap & bleed, clutch fluid swap & bleed, transmission oil drain and fill, and a basic API (as opposed to a PPI). Car was in good shape.

It's a daily driver so after a few days of driving it I start to smell Trans Oil. I look underneath and the whole rear driver side is covered in Trans Oil.

Back to the INDY shop...

They inspect it and can't find anything on the trans itself that is leaking but they say that the axle flange seal is bad and that's where the fluid is coming from... so they change the axle flange seal on the driver side and away I go...

I drive it mildly back and forth to work everyday and no leaks...

Then one day I have to drive a considerable distance on the freeway and so I open it up north of a century or so for awhile (it's Nevada, lots of wide open straights of nothingness for hundreds of miles).

Car drives fine, but when I get home I smell trans oil again. Look underneath and Trans oil all over the driver side bottom again.

Take it back to my INDY shop, they can't locate a leak anywhere on the car.

Hmmm... well that sucks. Now I'm gun shy to drive it over 100 in fear of loosing all of my trans oil.

Well I rarely drive over 100 for extended periods of time like I had on that day so I wasn't too concerned. Continued to drive it to work everyday for months and not a drop of Trans oil.

The one day I take it out and drive it north of 100 for an extended amount of time and guess what... Trans oil smell when I get home. This time not as bad, but still visible fluid on the driver side underneath.

What the heck?!

So when my Indy shop replaced my trans oil they didn't use a factory fill, they filled it with Mobil 1 Delvac. Which was fine during the summer months, but during the winter months, when it was cold in the morning I could barely get the car to shift into 1st and 2nd without having to double clutch. So Summer came and it's been warm again and the shifting is better but after reading about these Aisin Transmissions I decided I needed to change back to the OEM Trans Oil before winter arrives again.

So last night I drained my trans and refilled with factory oil.

One thing I noticed (take note 997 owners) is that the drain plug and fill plug are not the same as the 996 which a bunch of people had told me they were. Both are the same 24mm hex head plug. Another thing to note... the AISIN trans has two fill bolts on the side that are identical. One is located higher up right above the drive shaft and the other is located more to the front of the car, just to the right of the Alternator Cable Box that is bolted to the side of the Trans, way lower down.

I got to thinking... I wonder if my INDY shop filled my trans from the higher up bolt? So I have the factory workshop manual and so I look up Transmission Oil Change and I see that from the factory the trans holds 2.9 liters of oil when the trans is dry... BUT! when doing a change it says it only holds 2.6 liters.

So I dig out my old repair invoice and sure enough they charged me for 0.75 gallons of Delvac which is roughly 2.9 liters of oil.

So I go back out to the car and I empty my drain pan into three 1 liter bottles AND 50% of a gallon milk jug.

Suspicion confirmed... they must of filled my trans from the higher bolt and over filled it. Then during high speed runs the turbulence pushed the excess out the vent.

I figured I'd post this long story up as I assume older 997's will be reaching the transmission oil swap stage in their life and owners will be starting to do this more often now and in the years to come. So if anybody else experience this they can just check to see if their trans is overfilled, by simply pulling the fill bolt out. Some oil should trickle out but not a huge pour.

Hope this helps somebody down the road.... cheers.

Another option, still not cheap, but if you want the Nano Fullerene advantage that Millers Nano has, but you want an oil that will last longer, is to buy Nano Lub RC-X from AP Nano and add it to whatever oil you run. I'd lay money on the fact that Miller's is buying their nano materials from AP and adding it to their class 5 syn, as AP has a patent on the Tungsten Disulphide Nano Fullerene's that resemble onions and shear off leaving a tribofilm which is also Miller's claim to fame with their Nano Oil.

I've been buying it since before they went to market with it and adding it to Royal Purple XPR.

I read about it while doing some research on aerospace lubrication and found that NASA and the military had been using Tungsten Disulphide lubrication since the 70's in their satellites. It's the slickest substance they know of. Then the Israeli company AP Nano figured out how to take Tungsten Disulphide and create inorganic layered Nano fullerene's / buckeyball's with it. Some very trick stuff. Small enough to easily flow through oil filters and it has some very trick properties of deforming under high heat and load environments and shearing it's onion like layers off thus forming a Tungsten Disulphide nano layer on parts that are often under high friction. (think scored cylinder walls in 996 and 997 engines).

I contacted AP Nano a while back and told them I was a car racing team and that I wanted to try out their product. After some wire transfers and an explanation of how I intended to test it, they sent me some. Since using it I haven't added a single drop of oil to my car in over a year.

Just did my first oil change a few days ago and sent off a sample to Blackstone so when I get the results I'll post them up. I did switch over to Miller's oil this go around after reading some European Racing articles that was about some Touring Car teams that switched over to Miller's because of their Nano additive that had extended their tranny and motor rebuilds to 3 times the norm. It's basically the same stuff I've been running but I figured instead of buying XPR at $19 a liter and Nano Lub RC-X at big $$$$ I'd spend the money on just Miller's Nano Drive and see how it fairs.

After reading your oil sample though I may end up changing oil sooner than I normally do and sending it off to see if my results match yours...

That sample is Millers Nanodrive oil? I just bought 10L of that for my next oil change. Im currently running Royal Purple XPR 10W-40 with AP Nano WS2 additive. I have a 2006 Carrera S daily driver with 86,500 miles. 20 mile daily commute. No smoke on start, change oil every 7000 miles and never have to add oil between changes... ( miss the dipstick too, dont always trust the electrics)

Going to send off an oil sample to Blackstone next week when I change oil. Will post the results when I get them.

What size wheels? Stock or larger?

Vibration could be wheels and or tires, out of balance, broken inner steel belt, not N rated tires.

Suspension stuff is always hard to diagnose.

If you're running 19" wheels, that's the culprit.

Do you have the stock air intake / filter box? If so, put it back on and try that. I hate aftermarket air intakes, they seem to cause more problems than they are worth. But the people making them want to sell parts and so they advertise all these positive points. There is way more to a car's air intake than just flowing air. They are also tuned for intake pulses, etc which most aftermarket suppliers dont test. I had a 650+ HP TT with factory stock air intake and filter and the only problem I ever came across was blowing the rubber manifolds that connect the intake runners to the engine; had to have the intake runners strapped down to keep from blowing them out and then the problem was solved.

Loren says air leak between turbos and motor and he may be right. The deviation exceeded code,I think, is saying that there is a difference between the amount of boost one bank of cylinders is getting compared to the other. Or, it is saying that the boost sensor is detecting more boost than what the DME map allows for. In the first case,this gives one side of the engine way more torque than the other and so the car will try to protect itself. However, when this happens the car will usually turn the motor off. Even if you're driving down the street. But in your case it may not be bad enough for a shut-off and may just throw the code.

Have you crawled underneath and checked to see if the wastegates are moving freely? One or the other can bind which could cause this too.

I have a tool that I made using a standard bicycle pump with a gauge and some rubber hose that allowed me to connect up to the wastegates and then pump the bicycle pump and while checking the gauge I could verify at what psi they started to crack open and then at what psi they were fully open. This allowed me to synch them very precisely.

I also have two connectors that you remove the air intake hoses from the turbos, install these connectors with band clamps directly to the turbos and then connect an air hose and pressurize the system and then squirt around the engine with soapy water or even just listen for leaks. Its very common to have leaks especially when running more boost.

I was never a fan of GIAC with TT's. They built a good reputation with the older 911's and so many people assumed they were the hot ticket too when the 996 Turbo came out. This wasnt the case in my humble opinion as I knew many people with GIAC quirks and gltches. I think the best way around some of those issues with tuned cars is to get rid of the factory boost controller, retune the DME accordingly and then install an EBC. Otherwise the car is trying to control boost and is constantly monitoring it and when someting falls out of its parameters it throws codes. Now that is much safer, but more prone to annoying codes.

Porsche peeps are funny. GIAC was so ingrained in the community that many years ago I was kicked off of a forum for trying to seek out a Turbo X50 owner that lived near Atlanta, Ga that would be willing to let APR use their car to create custom maps for differing octanes. APR was going to supply the hardware and tuning for free. At the time, not many people in the US had heard of APR and the Porsche community was clueless. They thought they were some back alley shop that I worked for and kept telling me that anybody that didnt use Giac was dumb and that nobody was willing to risk their investment on "my crappy product" . In truth I didn't work there. They just had the only system that allowed for different octane maps that could be changed via the cruise control stalk in the car and I wanted it but they didnt offer it on X50 cars and so they told me that they would give me or somebody else everything for free if I or whomever let them use their car. So I was trying to find somebody that lived near them and wanted a free tune. I was kicked off the forum for my effort. Go look up APR Tuning and tell me how "fly by night" they look...haha.

Coolant connectors is very common but they usually fail catastrophicaly not slowly. In fact I was approached by the NTSA regarding the issue, I think they are considering a forced reall on Porsche because it is so common. There are 7 or 8 connectors if I remember correctly. My '03 Turbo X50 had a random coolant leak for two years. Somtimes it would leak, and most times it wouldn't. Had it in the shop a few times and they couldn't find it until I had the motor dropped for modification. When they removed the air intake runners they found it, there was some kind of pipe or hose on the top of the motor near the front that had a bad gasket. Porsche's teething problems with water cooling.

This is an old topic but I figured I would throw in my experience.

I switched to Delvac at the recommendation of my indy shop.

BAD MOVE. Now if you live in a warm climate year round you may never notice a problem, but I live in Reno and it gets cold during the winter. After starting the car I could only get the car into First gear if I came to a complete stop and Second gear required double clutching, third through 6 was okay and once the gear box was up to temp it was better but still very hard to get into first unless stopped. Now that the temps are warmer its nowhere near as bad but still not perfect. After doing some research it appears these Japanese transmissions are really particular about the fluid, and the only one that is known to function well is the OEM fluid. So I'm switching back here shortly. Just my .02

The coolant connector issue is strange... I've seen it happen on cars with 25k on the clock, it happened to me at 50K. I know of brand new GT3's that have had it happen with under 10K. There's even rumor that Porsche Club won't allow Mezger engine cars in their track events unless the mod has been done. Not sure how accurate that is and it could be just certain PCNA events were the coordinators are familar with the issue. I think the issue is a combination of age and heat cycles. I would def say the odds increase with time for sure though. They should be able to see at least 1 of the coolant connectors (there's 8 total), if they've been welded on it's going to be obvious, if not they need to look to see if they have been "pinned" which is basically drilling them and adding a bolt to hold them to the case.

You dont have to run 305's, you can run 295's with no issue and you wont notice the difference at all. I ran 295's on a modified Turbo with 650hp and never had a problem with grip.

X50 was a $18k option... Revo is a $1200 add-on that may or may not add useful power. X50 came with larger GT2 intercoolers, larger K24 turbos which can easily be upgraded to K24/18's , and GT2 exhaust and different mapping. X50 has a smiggin more lag but more top end speed. First thing you want to know when buying a Turbo is if the coolant line connectors have been replaced and welded or pinned in. The glue Porsche used to bond them to the engine wears out after awhile and then the car spits them out along with ALL of the coolant in a matter of seconds. It very very common and requires the motor to be dropped to fix and repace (10 hours plus)

But other than that they are great cars. Mezger engine = awesome. Porsche still using it in their race cars but have stopped using it in the street cars due to cost. I have personally seen a 996 Turbo with over 300k miles on the odometer. They're a bargin right now.

Check to see if you have a sensor on the rear driver side suspension. Its usually a small black plastic box with a long plastic rod that swivels off one side and connects to the A-arms. Its common for them to break where the rod connects to the suspension. Which would cause the headlights to adjust out of normal range and may cause the code.

Porsche Tires on a budget list:

Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta... super cheap and work well.

Toyo R888 for super aggresive (RIP RA1)

Continental Extreme DWS for Y rated all season. They squirm a bit but take a set just fine and if they let go it's very predictable.

Go cheap...Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta. Dirt cheap and I guarantee you wont be able to notice a performance difference unless maybe you take it to a track. If you want a hard core performance tire, go Toyo, R888....RIP Toyo RA1, one of the best tires ever made. Wish they would bring them back in normal Porsche sizing.

I cant remember what the spec is, but it has nothing to do with tire width, but the difference in diameter front to back, which will change as a result of changing widths. I think it says in the owners manual what difference is allowed. i used to go to Tire Racks website and look up the specs (diameters) on the Porsche approved "N" rated tires for the Turbo and then calc. The diameter differences. You want to keep them as close as possible because the PSM and traction control were designed with very specific parameters based on their (Porsche's) tires. So not only does running different diameter tires effect the diff. It also effects the electronic sytems. I switched over to 19's once on my Turbo and it didn't take me long to realize the car was not deigned around thier use and the different sized tires they required. The PASM system would interfere way earlier than it did with the stock sized wheels and tires when pushing the car hard. I would have to turn off the PASM if I was going to drive hard because if I didnt it would try applying a brake during a hard corner and it would really unnerve me and screw up the balance of the car. Went back to stock wheel and tire sizes quickly after that and all was well. The 964 Carrera 4 cars were even worse. They have a completely different AWD system that has more in common with Audi's Quattro than all other AWD Porsche's except the 959. Highly complex and very very finicky to wheel and tire size. Great snow car.

If you dont need the AWD, you can remove it. It drops 100+ pounds off the car and cures the common understeer, but its still no GT2. Totally different suspension components and hubs.

Normal 996 and 996 Turbo is like comparing apples to orangutan's... at least when it comes to drive train. Interior and body are the same but that is where the likeness stops. Common issues with the 996 Turbo are piddly compared to common issues with the M96 in the 996. The Turbo does have some quirks but nothing that is catostophic like the M96 has.

I'll list a few, and these are just the ones I've ever heard of, and some I experienced.

*Coolant Pipes dislodge from Motor... sounds more scary than it really is. Z Germans for some reason decided to use some sort of lock-tite type glue to hold the coolant pipes inside the motor, with repeated heat cycles and time, it wears out and spits the coolant pipes out of the motor. Now this isn't a coolant hose, it's the actual pipe that sticks out of the engine block that the hose attaches to. So when one blows out, you loose all of your coolant in a matter of seconds...ask me how I know. Now the Turbo's aren't the only car with this problem, all of the Mezger engine cars have it. In fact, it's probably more common on the GT3's and that includes the 997.1 and 997.2 versions. I've heard of it happening to newer GT3's with only 15K miles or so. Of course those cars were tracked regularly. But I don't think it's a mileage issue as much as time. My old car did it at around 55K and a friend of mine's did it at 28K, but they were the same age car. I even hear that some Porsche Club's won't allow Mezger engined cars in their track days unless it's been fixed.... so what's the fix? Simple... sort-of. You have them removed and have these http://www.torquesolution.com/product-p/ts-por-001.htm welded on.

This is a very common problem.

*Clutch accumulators... start to leak after awhile, simple replacement. Stupid things... some people get rid of them and swap over to a GT2 Master & Slave cylinder that isn't "assisted." This is also common.

*Fluid migration from steering pump reservoir to clutch system reservoir, if you don't catch it in time sometimes you have to replace both power steering pump and clutch slave cylinder. This is not common but can happen.

*Coolant bottle leak... common problem.

*Coolant leaks... random places. not real common, if you don't count the coolant pipe issue or the tank.

*Window regulators...not a big deal, just a PITA. fairly common.

*Sunroof drains break, fairly common, happens with age... Porsche updated the whole sunroof cassette and parts.

*Ignition switch, probably the cheapest fix, $10 part, fairly common.

*Some people have problems with their transmissions popping out of gear, I never did, but it was hard to get into 1st gear sometimes, although my current 997 is actually worse than my Turbo was.

All in all, I'd say a 996 Turbo is more reliable than the 996's and the 997's.

I've seen examples of stock, non-modified Turbos with 300K + miles. That's awesome! The motor is detuned at 450 HP so if left alone it should last a LONG LONG time.

The last GT2RS, uses the same motor and it's putting out 620 HP. They didn't use the newer 9A1 derived Turbo motor (DFI) they went back to the Mezger GT1 engine for that car...hmmm, must be because it's Awesome.

I worked for PCNA when Toyota was hired to help them LEAN up their manufacturing and one of the areas Toyota thought Porsche was crazy for, was the Mezger engine. They didn't understand why a company would build such a highly complex and expensive motor. Hence why Porsche went away from dry sump engines in their normal cars. Toyota conviced them that normal people don't need such highly engineered engines and that they could save gobs of money by simplifying it and only using the expensive engines in their true performance models like the GT3 and Turbo.

Which eventually became just the GT3 when the Turbos even went away from dry-sump in 2011. Now everyone is waiting on baited breath for the next 991 GT3 to see what motor it has, and if it has a true dry-sump system.

The motor in the 996 Turbo X50 is a $50K to $60K engine... the M96 and M97 motor from a 996 and 997 and the 9A1 motor from the 997.s and 991 are aprox. $23K to $30K motors.

Think there's some build quality differences?!

Update: So my 911 has been running without the CEL coming on this month. I have been reading that report Dustin provided and will probably opt to add the 3rd radiator kit.

Dustin, where can I find a similar thermostat as the one you installed on your Carrera S?

Pelican Parts sells them... as I'm sure a bunch of other places do as well. They are called "Low Temperature Thermostast" they start to open at 160F instead of 181F

Its pretty common for shifts into first and into second to be hard, not sure why this is, but a few of my friends with the same car have this issue too, as well as myself. Interesting note...the transmissions on these cars aren't German. Stamped on the side...Made In Japan.

Made in Japan; designed in ?

Designed in Japan, by Aisin....With Porsche's input for sure. I used to work for PCNA, right when they started to learn LEAN from Toyota. Toyota has always used Aisin and I think Porsche got the idea from them. They claimed that they hadn't been happy with the quality from Getrag, but I think it was simply a cost saving move as the GT3 and GT2, and Turbo still use the Getrag and they feel way better than theses Aisin units. Mine even has a random leak that nobody can find. Does it only after having driven the car for an extended distance at high speed. But then, sometimes it doesn't do it...weird. Porsche's LEAN learning curve was from the 996 thu the gen 1 997's and now should be getting in the groove where they will be able to build in the quality and quickly make changes to trouble spots they find. Toyota is the master at this and even they claim they are still learning and constantly improving...Kaizen as they call it.

Voice of reason here... Haha. I have an awesome sounding aftermarket exhaust as well as many people I know. Sounds great! But.... For some reason we all have issues, when in Sport mode, and when just starting to accelerate away quickly, we all now experience a bad really quick stutter. Its like the MAF gets too much air and kills the throttle for a split second. Its ANNOYING!

So sometimes you gain sound but screw up drivablity. Do a search for Carrera S accelration stutter or miss and see how many people have this issue. You'll notice quickly that the common denominator is aftermarket exhaust.

I have a full AWE header and exhaust kit, sounds great, no drone at all, wicked at full acceleration, but now have the annoying stutter that Ive learned to drive around.

Its pretty common for shifts into first and into second to be hard, not sure why this is, but a few of my friends with the same car have this issue too, as well as myself. Interesting note...the transmissions on these cars aren't German. Stamped on the side...Made In Japan.

Had my old Turbo at 200 MPH

Really? Nice! Couldn't have been stock. What mods? Chip and turbo?

Before mods, 198 mph. After mods, 205 mph (with mirrors folded in)

Mods were many... Turbos, y-pipe, intake, boost controller, fuel pump, fuel injectors, map, strapped plenum, headers, muffler-less exhaust, upgraded cooling, lowered, super light wheels, high octane fuel,etc etc...

Welcome to 911's... Very aerodynamic, but also very low positive down-force unless you add aerokit or own a GT3 or RS.

Its normal for the front to feel light at high speed. They are zero lift, but like I said, very little down force to be had stock.

Had my old Turbo at 200 MPH and very small gusts of wind made the front feel like it was going to lift off the ground. Can be unnerving if you are used to cars that make downforce. I had an old Mits Evo VIII, that at 170 MPH felt way more stable than my Porsche, and its because it made gobs of positive downforce. If you lower the car, that will help too, but in reality there's nothing wrong with it, you just have to get used to the float feel. Hence why Porsche's have always had high top speeds with very small amounts of power, lite weight, neutral aerodynamic down force with low drag.

Now as far as driving fast goes...people in the US have this mental catch with any speed over 100 MPH. We drive so slow in this country that people hear the century number and think pending doom. Drive in Germany for awhile and you realize that speed is very relative. You get past by station wagons on the unlimited sections of the Autobahn if you're not driving 120 mph. And once you have been at those speeds for awhile, you slow down to 75 or 80 and it feels like your crawling, like you could open the door and step out. You'll also notice that German cars usually have different tire pressure recommendations for anything over 100mph, its because people drive them that way in Europe frequently. Now that being said, it also takes them many years and many dollars to get their drivers license that allows them to drive on the Autobahn. They actually learn how to drive, as opposed to here where kids learn the rules of the road instead of vehicle dynamics. Driving fast isn't inherently dangerous up to a point, in fact its been proven that people tend to concentrate more on driving when driving fast. But everyone has different comfort zones. Ive been at 130 mph for over an hour and it eventually feels just like it does at 70. For me personally, it starts to feel fast north of 155 mph, and between 175 to 200 it feels very fast. Now in a Buggati it may not. But speed is relative and if you're trucking along at 100 plus but everybody else is doing 70 then, yeah, you're asking for problems. But if everybody is going those speeds or if you are alone and nobody else is around then its your own comfort zone that should dictate what's safe.