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What is your priority? Looks or performance? If looks, just try to find a tire size with similar outside dimensions to the stock tires. The rim size doesnt matter its the O.D. Of the tire that is important. The 19" wheel will use a shorter sidewall tire compared to the 18" wheel, but the o.d. Needs to be close to the same. If Performance is your goal, ditch the 19" wheels and go back to the 18". Thats what the car was designed for. 19" will work but because of the shorter sidewall the suspension characteristics will change a bit and the car will tend to tramline. There is no advantage to larger wheels unless you need larger brakes. In GT racing the only time they run 19" wheels is if the track is fast and they need to run more brake. But if you just want the look of the 19" just keep the o.d.s close to stock.
Got 98,000 miles out of my clutch. Cost $2200 to replace clutch kit, DMF, and RMS.
10 hours out, 10 hours in... Hate electronic oil level. **** things never work perfectly. Keep it simple stupid...old school dip stick always works. Have you removed the undertray and crawled up underneath to see if you can get to that sensor without dropping the motor? That sensor is on the bottom of the dry sump oil tank which hangs off the front of the motor on the passenger side.
Personally wouldnt be too concerned. I had a Ducati years back and they notoriously ran at a really high temp, not overheat just really high, so installed a manual switch on the fan and would turn it on soon after it reached a normal temp and it would keep the engine temps down to a normal level. If i didnt turn it on and let it get up to normal high temp and then turned the fan on, it was too late, the fan couldnt bring the temp back down again. Even on my current 997 I notice if I kick the spoiler up shortly after starting out it keeps the oil temps slightly cooler for longer. I dont think the fan kicking on is bad, the car will reach its proper op temp with no problem and the fan just may keep it there instead of letting it heat soak and going higher. Its better to have it stuck on, then off. Dont remember my old Turbo doing that though. Dont recall the fan kicking on when starting it cold. Have Durametric? If not get one.
Dus10R replied to Mijostyn's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)Here's the latest oil sample... This time after running Miller's Nano. This is daily driven, 20+ miles a day which is barely enough time to heat up engine fully. Things improved. Also cut open filter and not a spec of metal anywhere and nothing on magnetic drain plug. I haven't seen another 997 Carrera S with as many miles as mine has and these numbers look pretty good. Test recomends running Miller's to 7,000 miles, which is a pretty high end oil...so how do the OEM's have 12,000 to 15,000 mile recomended oil changes on normal oil? Something isnt right...
My favorite tuner is APR and thats because they have figured out a way to change fuel maps on the fly via the cruise control stalk. So if you run 91 octane it runs on 1 map, if you run 93 or 100, you can switch it without having to plug in and reflash. The only problem is that they don't have a tune for X50 cars. When I had my X50 car years back, they offered to tune it for free as they needed a X50 guinea pig... As i don't live anywhere close to Georgia i got on some Porsche forums and asked around and told anybody with a X50 that they could go to APR and they would tune their car for free. I literally got kicked off one forum for that suggestion. At the time, old school Porsche idiots knew nothing but GIAC (which sucks in my humble opinion) and they thought I worked for APR and that APR was a fly by night small tuner. This was of course before APR had their web site up which shows how small they're not. Still dont know if they ever came up with an X50 tune. But besides them, Markski at 911tuning.com knows more about modified 996 TT's than anybody I know of and he's very hands on and extremely helpful. I worked with him on a 700 hp x50 project that turned out stellar...
Just plugged in my Durametric to try and snag a AFR like I used to do with my 996TT and....there's no parameter to log. Or if there is I haven't the slightest idea what it's called or how to convert it to AFR . Anybody have any ideas? 2006 Carrera S...
No dip stick, no Mity Vac. The oil tank drains super quick on the dry sump motors anyways, i guess it would just save you from having to crawl under car but then its just another fluid container to clean afterwards. I wonder if it would even save anytime in the long run.
The car was not designed around 19" wheels. Just because they fit and lots of 996 guys use them doesn't mean they work better. I tried using them once long ago against better advice, but the side effects were adverse at the limit and when I switched back to 18"s all those issues went away. Running 19" wheels on a car that was not designed around them changes the suspension geometry enough to not function properly. There are other reasons too. Car was designed for specific overall diameter and with the AWD system a specific ratio of diameter front to back. No matter what tire you fit on a 19" wheel you'll never match the OEM diameters. Plus generally when you increase wheel diameter you have to increase tire size, sidewall gets shorter, wheel weight goes up, tire weight goes up, wheel flex goes up, weight distribution of the rotating mass gets farther from center. So... Puts more stress on the steering, which changes the steering feel. Wider front tires, even by a small margin, doesn't allow the weight to transfer enough to the tire on the outside as the inside tire now has more grip too. Wider tires work well but only on a car with the suspension geometry that is set up for it. Shorter sidewall now means less tire flex which means the suspension needs to compensate or you risk loosing contact and possibly bending a wheel. Its just not a simple swap. Porsche had to make lots of suspension changes to the 997 to get 19" Wheels to work correctly.
Dont know if it falls under the "cost friendly" category but you can always upgrade the shifter mechanism to the GT3RS version which is all metal and shifts much more precise. Had it in my old TT and it made a big difference. http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/997SCU.html?Category_Code=996tttransTT