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Dus10R

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Everything posted by Dus10R

  1. What is your priority? Looks or performance? If looks, just try to find a tire size with similar outside dimensions to the stock tires. The rim size doesnt matter its the O.D. Of the tire that is important. The 19" wheel will use a shorter sidewall tire compared to the 18" wheel, but the o.d. Needs to be close to the same. If Performance is your goal, ditch the 19" wheels and go back to the 18". Thats what the car was designed for. 19" will work but because of the shorter sidewall the suspension characteristics will change a bit and the car will tend to tramline. There is no advantage to larger wheels unless you need larger brakes. In GT racing the only time they run 19" wheels is if the track is fast and they need to run more brake. But if you just want the look of the 19" just keep the o.d.s close to stock.
  2. Is there an option sticker under the front bonnet? Some have them and will list all the option codes.
  3. They just look like a two in one. One side is actually painted black and is non functioning. But yes they havent different tips.
  4. Got 98,000 miles out of my clutch. Cost $2200 to replace clutch kit, DMF, and RMS.
  5. 10 hours out, 10 hours in... Hate electronic oil level. **** things never work perfectly. Keep it simple stupid...old school dip stick always works. Have you removed the undertray and crawled up underneath to see if you can get to that sensor without dropping the motor? That sensor is on the bottom of the dry sump oil tank which hangs off the front of the motor on the passenger side.
  6. Personally wouldnt be too concerned. I had a Ducati years back and they notoriously ran at a really high temp, not overheat just really high, so installed a manual switch on the fan and would turn it on soon after it reached a normal temp and it would keep the engine temps down to a normal level. If i didnt turn it on and let it get up to normal high temp and then turned the fan on, it was too late, the fan couldnt bring the temp back down again. Even on my current 997 I notice if I kick the spoiler up shortly after starting out it keeps the oil temps slightly cooler for longer. I dont think the fan kicking on is bad, the car will reach its proper op temp with no problem and the fan just may keep it there instead of letting it heat soak and going higher. Its better to have it stuck on, then off. Dont remember my old Turbo doing that though. Dont recall the fan kicking on when starting it cold. Have Durametric? If not get one.
  7. Here's the latest oil sample... This time after running Miller's Nano. This is daily driven, 20+ miles a day which is barely enough time to heat up engine fully. Things improved. Also cut open filter and not a spec of metal anywhere and nothing on magnetic drain plug. I haven't seen another 997 Carrera S with as many miles as mine has and these numbers look pretty good. Test recomends running Miller's to 7,000 miles, which is a pretty high end oil...so how do the OEM's have 12,000 to 15,000 mile recomended oil changes on normal oil? Something isnt right...
  8. My favorite tuner is APR and thats because they have figured out a way to change fuel maps on the fly via the cruise control stalk. So if you run 91 octane it runs on 1 map, if you run 93 or 100, you can switch it without having to plug in and reflash. The only problem is that they don't have a tune for X50 cars. When I had my X50 car years back, they offered to tune it for free as they needed a X50 guinea pig... As i don't live anywhere close to Georgia i got on some Porsche forums and asked around and told anybody with a X50 that they could go to APR and they would tune their car for free. I literally got kicked off one forum for that suggestion. At the time, old school Porsche idiots knew nothing but GIAC (which sucks in my humble opinion) and they thought I worked for APR and that APR was a fly by night small tuner. This was of course before APR had their web site up which shows how small they're not. Still dont know if they ever came up with an X50 tune. But besides them, Markski at 911tuning.com knows more about modified 996 TT's than anybody I know of and he's very hands on and extremely helpful. I worked with him on a 700 hp x50 project that turned out stellar...
  9. Just plugged in my Durametric to try and snag a AFR like I used to do with my 996TT and....there's no parameter to log. Or if there is I haven't the slightest idea what it's called or how to convert it to AFR . Anybody have any ideas? 2006 Carrera S...
  10. I thought I575 was a standard option. My car has it, and has that same pipe and it goes into a spot very near where the vent is in the luggage compartment.
  11. No dip stick, no Mity Vac. The oil tank drains super quick on the dry sump motors anyways, i guess it would just save you from having to crawl under car but then its just another fluid container to clean afterwards. I wonder if it would even save anytime in the long run.
  12. Dont need them unless your modified. Ive never heard of the stock units failing on a stock car. Theres myth, sort of like seeing bigfoot , that they need to be replaced. Its mainly bs to sell parts.
  13. The car was not designed around 19" wheels. Just because they fit and lots of 996 guys use them doesn't mean they work better. I tried using them once long ago against better advice, but the side effects were adverse at the limit and when I switched back to 18"s all those issues went away. Running 19" wheels on a car that was not designed around them changes the suspension geometry enough to not function properly. There are other reasons too. Car was designed for specific overall diameter and with the AWD system a specific ratio of diameter front to back. No matter what tire you fit on a 19" wheel you'll never match the OEM diameters. Plus generally when you increase wheel diameter you have to increase tire size, sidewall gets shorter, wheel weight goes up, tire weight goes up, wheel flex goes up, weight distribution of the rotating mass gets farther from center. So... Puts more stress on the steering, which changes the steering feel. Wider front tires, even by a small margin, doesn't allow the weight to transfer enough to the tire on the outside as the inside tire now has more grip too. Wider tires work well but only on a car with the suspension geometry that is set up for it. Shorter sidewall now means less tire flex which means the suspension needs to compensate or you risk loosing contact and possibly bending a wheel. Its just not a simple swap. Porsche had to make lots of suspension changes to the 997 to get 19" Wheels to work correctly.
  14. Dont know if it falls under the "cost friendly" category but you can always upgrade the shifter mechanism to the GT3RS version which is all metal and shifts much more precise. Had it in my old TT and it made a big difference. http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/997SCU.html?Category_Code=996tttransTT
  15. Reach out to Markski at 911tuning.com. That dude knows more about modified 996 Turbos than anyone I know of. He's super cool and very helpful, even if you don't have their products. info@911tuning.com ive been out of the 996 Turbo tuning world for. 2 years now and have forgotten most of the tips and tricks and things to check. Markski can tell you exactly what parameters to data log and how to do it. A hesitation at that low of rpm almost sounds like its getting too much fuel, or not enough. But in reality it could be numerous items with a tuned car so data logging it is key, hopefully it does it during a data log so you can see what its doing.
  16. Who's chip? Or is it flash loaded? If flashed have you or can you flash it back to oem? Have you data logged it to see what the AFR's are doing? Mod'd turbos can be finicky to work out bugs. Does it still have the stock boost controller? I see you mentioned throttle body, did you take it out and clean it? ( it usually causes rough idle and stalls though, not hesitation). Are the waste gates synch'd to open at the same time? When you say modified turbos are you talking about a K24/18 upgrade or something else? Stock intake or after-market?
  17. I dont run motor silk but have been using AP Nano Tungsten Disulphide additive for 2 years with no problem. I have a 997 which is known to have cylinder scoring issues and even d chunk failures due to bad oiling and overheat conditions on two of the cylinders towards the front of the car. Im about to turn 90k miles and I have zero smoke on start up and she runs like a top. If its a real friction reducing additive and not snake oil, then I dont see the harm, unless it clogs the filter. The additive I use is a nano particle and is smaller than the filter filters so it runs right through it.
  18. Totally different engine than air-cooled. Nothing even similar besides it being a boxer 6. No IMS problems with Turbo's. They have one of the best motors ever made by Porsche. The only issues that creep up are usually, clutch accumulator tanks, and the coolant line attachments that are glued into the motor eventually fail and come spitting out along with all of your coolant. Have them welded in and you have no worries, i think there's 6 of them. But no IMS problems.
  19. These are the minimum specs you need... 12.8V 18AH 480 Amp You can make your own out of LiFe PO4 batteries, a little web research can teach you how. Cheaper then buying them turn-key but still not cheap.
  20. Anyone else notice a rich smell at low rpms? I have a feeling that this hesitation may be an over rich condition when going close to WOT from low RPM's. May need a custom tune to fix or ive heard of some guys installing O2 sensor spacers? Anybody try it?
  21. Michelin Pilot Alpin, ran them on my old TT, didnt notice excessive road noise but then again, 911's arent quiet cars on the inside to begin with. They seemed okay, probably not as good as Blizzak's in snow but better on road ( used those too a few times). Now I have a 2WD 997 Carrera S and I use Continental DWS all seasons and I must say, I dont actually notice a huge difference from when I had the AWD TT with snow tires to this car with DWS's. Maybe from a dead start in snow...this car starts to slip a bit more, but once moving it feels the same as the TT. Ive been impressed with these DWS's. They're awesome on street too, and if driving really hard on them they slide very predictably. We dont get tons of snow here, but theres a few mornings when I drive to work in 4" or more and havent had an issue. Used to avoid all seasons and would only buy dedicated snows but i read a good revied of these and decided to try them and I must say ive been highly impressed.
  22. I guess if you're just posing around and want the look, no harm no foul. If you're concerned with handling, then stick with 18's. 996 wasn't designed for 19's nor their increase in weight & less tire deflection. You will have more tram-lining, your PSM will engage more often, etc. larger wheels are only useful if your running larger brakes, other than that they just look cool. And to find a 19 that weighs less than the 18 you are spending big big bucks.
  23. You need to check for both a boost leak and you need to see at what psi your wastegates are opening at. When I switched over to the K24/18G setup I found a lot of boost leaks and ended up having to swap the intake hoses to silicone and even had to have the intake plenum strapped down to keep the boost from blowing the small rubber gaskets out that fit between the intake track and the engine. You have to buy special silicone connectors that fit over the Turbo air inlets and they have a air chuck on them that allows you to pressurise the system and then listen for leaks or spray soapy water over the engine and look for bubbles. As far as the wastegates go, I took a bicycle pump with a gauge and a air release button, and made a hose to fit the wastegate air niple. Then you pump the bicycle pump up and watch the gauge and the wastegate rod and note at what psi the rod starts to move and what psi the wastegate is full open. It will tell you if your dumping off too much boost. The other problem can be the oem boost selenoid. Even with a softtronic tune it cant really overide the factory boost controller nor I dont think the boost map. And even with a Softronic, the factory safety mechanisms are in place, so if your octane isnt high enough and the car detects ping,it will still pull back timing and detune the car. The diverter valves arent an issue until you change turbos and are running way more cfm and psi. Its a myth that the people that sell diverter valves like to propogate to sell parts. With oem turbos and boost levels they work just fine.
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