Dus10R

I have a pentosin leak under the hood, drivers side. Leak is on the garage floor as well as on the plastic around the filler cap. Is this a Slave or Accumulator problem? Thx in advance!

Common for the Power Steering master cylinder to leak...needing replacement. Usually will drip out behind the front driver wheel somewhere.

That's why I hate sunroofs. Before I bought the car I was convincing my wife about Porsche quality and how well built they are, etc etc... Now there's consistent squeaks and rattles from the rear of the headliner and I know some of it is the sunroof cassette. The driver door seal has a bad wind noise. She'll never listen to me again about car quality...now she's fighting for a Bentley Continental, someone convinced her they're a quality, squeak free, quiet at a 100mph, car...just what I want, a big, fat, heavy, Bentley... Thanks Porsche.

Have you checked, as already mentioned, the cylinder head on porosity or a leaked cylinder head gasket? Both problems occurs on Turbo engines.

Well from the looks of it, that's were it's leaking from. I wasn't aware the Turbo's had this problem. What is it exactly? Just bad head gaskets or are the cyclinder heads bad?

I had a similar leak a few weeks ago, my leak was coming from the top of the engine and it was dripping from the rear sway bar area. This car has a couple of coolant hoses on top of the engine that bring water from one side of the engine to the other. The dealer had to drop the engine to fix this, they had to replace 2 O-rings ($10).

This leak is at the rear (closest to the bumper) of the motor on the passenger side and I can't find any fluid on top that is leaking down. I'm stumped on this one.

Can it be under the expansion tank... Left side of the engine compartment... Coolant reservoir is know to leak and many people got it replaced....

It's on the passenger side at the back of the motor.

When I first bought the car the guy that I bought it from didn't drive it much and it developed a small coolant leak after I started driving it the first week. I kept my eye on it and it eventually stopped leaking as I drove it on a daily basis (this was 2 years ago) Now I've parked the car for winter, taking it out about once a week just to start it and run it a little, and this last time I parked it, a day later I noticed the same leak is back, same place and everything. Any clues... here's some pics.

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us working techs need to eat too. if by our own experience and skill we can do a job in less than book time, then why should we give away our time and efforts? everybody thinks that mechanics are out to screw them, but it is no different than any other profession. at first you make less profit while you are learning, but as you streamline your business practices you become more profitable. when you become more profitable you dont think of ways to go back to being less profitable you are now reaping the benefits of all your previous hard work. BTW 8-10 hrs is appropriate for non turbo, 17 ish is appropriate for turbo. It can be done with engine in car, but is safer and easier to pull both together.

mattntp

I understand your argument, but book rate is so far off from actual realistic time that it should'nt even be legal to quote it. When I had a Nissan, the shop quoted me book of 8 hours to change a fuel injector, I did it myself in 45 minutes...and I'm not a "trained" tech. I understand that you can make more money by quoting book, but If I'm paying for a service by the hour it seems unethical to charge someone for hours of service that it didn't actually take. I could understand say a two hour window but you're saying it takes 17 hours, or almost two full work days to change a clutch? No way...

But I understand why techs like it... 1.) if you're working for a shop that pays book and they charge $95 - $100 per hour... you don't make that $100 per hour, you make the (aprox.) $24 an hour they pay you. So if you can squeeze in say two 8 hour "book" jobs in one day, you're doing okay... you just got paid 16 hours worth of work in only 8 hours; good for you, bad for consumer that just paid for something they didn't actually get.

I am having the exact same experience in my 2001tt. I thought it was the AWD binding when cold just like inky Suburban and previous 2005 Subaru. It is worst when really cold outside like below freezing as I just noticed it when the weather got bitterly cold. I hope there is nothing wrong. I will keep an eye on it as the weather gets warmer. It seems to be worst when pulling out of a prking space after being parked all day and it is below freezing.

I just got the car so I have to get to know it and didn't notice this before but it was warmer. The car had a very thorough PPI and the Indy didn't say there was an issue; I will check with him next week.

Regards,

Tytus

You may be on to something... the first time I noticed it, I was backing out of a parking spot on a very cold day. Then, I drove it the other day, which was a warmer day, and I couldn't get it to do it. Curious to hear if the PPI catches it...

I have searched far and wide, but I can't find a comprehensive DIY guide for replacing the clutch on a 996 TT. Difficulty sounds like a 7 of 10, but I can't afford to get half way through and get stuck! Does anyone know where I can find a good one?

Thanks!

e-mail me at dustinr@nvbell.net and I'll send you the Workshop version...it's not difficult, just time consuming.

Mine is doing this too. I think it's a CV Joint but I haven't actually checked it out yet. The car is in it's cacoon for the winter and so I haven't bothered to diagnose the problem. If you narrow down the cause please update this post, I'd be interested to hear if it is CV Joint related or something else.

Help...I a m the proud owner of 2001 996 Turbo with 49000 kilos. The first day I picked up from dealer I noticed a vibration and clicking noise when I would turn the steering wheel during parking or slow full 180degree turns. The car has a one year warranty but the dealer mentioned that all Porsche turbo 996s have this small problem that gets worse during cold starts. Is this true for other porsche owners or is the dealer trying to avoid warranty repairs.

George

Have the front CV joints inspected. Sounds like one may be bad and if one is bad you should probably just change all of them. If it's really under warrant than the dealer should cover it, at least replacing a bad one.

When it is cold outside, I notice more bumpbumpbump when turning the wheels all the way to lock on my concrete driveway. I had assumed it was the colder tires' stiffer sidewalls and lower grip.

It's been cold here too, but I don't think it's normal. I'm thinking CV joint. Haven't put it on my lift yet to actually find out though.

I'm coming to the conclusion that my P car doesn't like to sit in the garage during winter. Since it's been parked I've come across more issues than I ever have while driving it daily. Most of it's just coincidence I'm sure, it's getting to that first milestone of needing some wear parts, 45K miles. So, I have to change the clutch (it's slipping), then I noticed a puddle of fluid below the rear right axle, turns out that the rear strut decided to have a melt down and all the fluid has leaked out of it, then today I had to take the car for a smog and I noticed that when I turn the wheel full lock in either direction while moving slowly (forward or backward) it feels like something is binding up and the wheel bumps while rolling....bump,....bump,....bump,....bump. It's not a steering issue, more along the lines of a drive shaft or prop shaft or whatever you call the shafts that run to the front wheels. Do these have small u-joints where they connect to the wheels? I've never looked at it. But you can hear it, feel it, and see the steering wheel jerk when it happens. You have to be at full lock though and or very close to full lock. Any ideas?

Okay... wow. Thanks for all the info. that's awesome. I have a two post Hydraulic Rotary lift and I have the transmission jack so that part is covered. Have all the tools and I have a former Toyota mechanic that's helping do it. After looking at the Porsche Service Manual it just didn't seem that difficult, not 17.6 hours difficult. What's sad is the shop I took it to is one of the best Porsche specific shops around; so when they quoted me "book" rate I was really dissapointed. I don't mind paying someone to do it if they're going to charge me a realistic price, but everyone around here quotes "book" and I can't screw myself in good conscience like that knowing they can do it in 7 hours max. They loved it when I told them that they were "high", I guess they're used to dealing with rich dudes that don't know any better and will pay whatever they ask. I even clarified it like this.." So you're telling me it's going to take you two full eight hour days to complete a clutch job?" I got the "Well there's a little more to it than you think..." In my sarcastic drawn out voice, "Rrrriiiiggghhhttt."

Are there any mechanics left that charge you for how long it actually took them to complete the job? I haven't found one...

Maybe I found a new calling, I think I can scrounge by on $95 bucks per hour of legitimate time.

Time to change clutch, I was wondering how long it really takes to do it? I've seen the Porsche manual and it seems very cut and dried. I stopped by a Porsche repair facility (non-dealer) and they quoted me book at 17.6 hours. Seemed to me like a blindfolded chimpanzee drunk on jack Daniels could do it in 17.6 hours but a normal reasoning human could probably do it in 6 (learning curve).

Anyone here done it themselves?

Driving and owning my 996TT is just like dating a Supermodel! You love the looks, best feeling in the world when everything is going great, but the high maintainance kills you. There are days that I just want a reliable car. Then you remember all the reasons why I drive a 996TT. I just want my car to run like it was supposed to.

Here is the latest issue: 2002 996TT X50 6speed and FVD chipped, 100 cell cats and exhaust fropm FVD with 83,000 miles on it. Regular boost is 1.1 to 1.2 bars when the Porsche is running good. Daily driver, 20K miles per year and driven in sun and snow.

Two weeks ago, car is misfiring again and the check egine light is flashing then going off at WOT above 3500 rpm. Now the CEL is flashing occasionally and staying on. OBD2 reader is showing misfires on all but cyclinder 6. I have always had issues with plugs so I pulled the sparks and coil to see. All 3 plugs on the drivers side was only 10k miles old but were completely black (running rich?) but the passanger side was nice and brown. Why the difference between driver's side and passanger's side? Replaced plugs with NGK iridium cool temperature range and two coils on the passanger side that looked fine but the numb where the wiring harness clips into was damaged. Car still misfires pretty bad. Just as a test, I put in 100 octane gas with no difference.

Any ideas to why the dramatic difference in the spark plug wear? I was trying to think what sensor would manage the driver's and passanger's side differently and the only thing I can come up with is the O2 sensors. Any ideas? Also, which side is cyclinder bank 1 and bank 2? What is the order of cyclinder number? Is cyclinder 1 the driver's side (bank 1?) closest to the driver? I was hoping for some cures and/or directions before I take it to a dealer. Just like dating a supermodel, I know its going to cost me a lot. Hoping to save a few bucks before I am at the dealer. Thank you all in advance!

Misfires can be caused by the following...

Spark plug wires

Ignition coil

Fuel injector

Wiring to fuel injector

Timing Belt

Vacuum leak or stuck open EGR

Contaminated fuel or bad fuel pump

Weak compression

Blown head gasket

Your saying that it misfires at low rpm but not at high rpms?

With a modded car / chip, it could be a lot of things fuel related. Without a wideband O2 reader you don't know what it's doing, you're just trusting that the FVD map is still working correctly. It could be running too lean in the lower rpms and then at WOT when the boost spools in their map is fattening up the AFR like it should which is solving the problem temporarily. Or, it's not getting enough fuel pressure, EGR valve is bad, MAF issues, valve stuck or bad (do compression check). If you've already tried all of the easy stuff and it's still having problems then theres something deeper.

You normally cant get something for nothing when modding. If Porsche could get 500hp out of the 996TT by just chipping it, why would they go through the trouble of re-engineering and building an entirely new 3.8L motor for the new 2010 Turbo? It's definitely possible to get the horsepower out of the 996TT but at what cost to longevity. You buy exhaust and a chip from a company that you trust but in reality you have no idea how their fuel & timing maps work unless you're data logging with a wideband.

I've had STI, EVO, Porsche, Nissan and the principle is all the same. In fact, with my Evo, the factory map wasn't good for the car at WOT and top speed, it was too lean and getting knock. I had to alter the factory map to bring a balance of longevity and performance back into the equation. I guess Mitsubishi didn't expect many people to drive their Evo's at top speed for any length of time; they didn't count on us Nevadan's and our miles of straight lonley roads.

So you need to data log to truely see what's happening.

From my PET schematic, it looks like the only boost leak I have left is from this part no: 996 605 165 00 Change-Over Valve.

Seems like a weird place for a boost leak, but then again so did the oil filler cap.

Was at a auction today and saw a '07 997 TT with 35K sell for $66K.

Wow! What a steal. Exotics have dumped in value. Ferrari 360 Modena's can now be had in the $60's and $70's. Saw a Ferrari 430 with 9K miles sell for $145K. Lamborghini Gallardo go for $64K. Good time to buy, bad time to sell.

Many people replace the diverter valves that way, me included. I was worried the first time but checked everywhere and nothing is under stress or binding....

Would def. make it easier... thanks for the tip.

Do yourself a favor and lower the engine next time you work in that area...It is so simple and give you so much space to properly work in what was a tight spot!

See this discussion....Lowering the engine

Doing this doesn't put any weird stresses on the transmission or axles?

Well for the past week I've noticed that my car has only been boosting to .7 bar. Didn't seem normal to me so I built a gizmo that I could plug into the intake tract where the airbox would normally connect to, pressurize the track and listen and look for leaks.

So Right off I hear a hissing sound comming from the right side of the engine so I start feeling around and then start spraying soapy water around and I can't find it. So I happen to rest my hand on the oil filler cap and the sound got muffled. So I tried to tighen the oil filler cap and it was alread as tight as it would go and still leaking. So I barely started to back it off and it sealed and stopped hissing.

Then I sprayed water over all of the hoses and lines on top where the DV's are and I started to see bubbles comming from a small hose that connects to a square block. The hose is clamped on with some type of wierd clamp and it looks to be leaking from around the clamp. The hose and block are behind and above where the oil filter is and it runs front to back, not sure what it is but I have pictures that I'll post later. That one I couldn't fix, to hard to get to without removing a lot of stuff.

So then I crawled under the car and could hear more hissing comming from the rear driver side. Turned out to be the intake hose going into the turbo, so I tighted all the hose clamps and it stopped.

Took the car back out and now it's boosting consistantly at .9 bar (stock unprogrammed ecu)

So, if anyone has an X50 that's been boosting in the .7 range (Ive read posts from guys asking if that was normal) you may ought to check for boost leaks, it's not normal.

Hi, I very rarely use the performance in my 2005 Turbo S and have only done about 3,000 miles in it so do not really know what is normal and what isn't when it comes to using the power on offer. However, I opened the throttle fully last week in 6th gear accelerating between 100 and 120 mph and had to back off the throttle due to a judder that was felt from the rear of the car. Even though the conditions were dry I thought that it was wheelspin, but now I'm not so sure because it just doesn't seem right that a car with 4WD should do this. The only other occasion that this is happened is when I accelerated at full throttle in 3rd gear but I was less surprised about that because of the ferocious power delivery that the car has. The car has just had a clutch replacement and this problem was not apparent prior to that because I think that the clutch was slipping ever so slightly and taking the edge off the power delivery.

Does anybody have any idea whether this is 'normal' or if there is likely to be a problem with the car? For information the car will easily hold 1.0 bar boost but I'm sure that I have seen 1.2 bar indicated (may have been a pressure spike).

Thanks in advance for your suggestions,

Danny Tattersall.

A "judder?" How violent? Shouldn't be wheel spin at those speeds, car doesn't have that much HP unless it's been highly modified or the tires are badly worn.

Something is not right in the the throttle body.

Did you remove the throttle body to clean it?

I did remove it.

I think I might have figured it our Loren, the butterfly plate wasn't centered correctly and it was keeping it from closing all the way, hence the high idle. I hae yet to drive it yet due to breaking a hose clamp which I now have to go buy, but hopefully that's the fix...

Sorry about the other post where I listed a website with service manual references, I just see people on the boards always looking for them and I figured I'd help. Didn't think about copyright enfringements.

Rick Cannell's Awesome resource...

No service manual for the Turbo, but there are downloads for the normal 996.

Should Save you $200 bucks or so...

The PET programs also work...

Something is not right in the the throttle body.

Did you remove the throttle body to clean it?

I did remove it.