Dus10R

Went for a drive today up one of our local curvy roads. Car was great up and most the way back; but then I go into a left hand corner and right about the apex I hear a quiet sound that sounds like I just drove over a small cattle guard, the car instantly starts to understeer and pull to the outside of the corner like a brake was being applied, then it stopped and was fine. Luckily I was driving fairly mellow at the time.

It freaked me out a little because I don't want that happening while the pace is upped, in the middle of a corner. So I drove normal for a little while and didn't feel anything out of place; no codes showing. So I upped my pace a little and get into a corner and it happened again. This time I noticed that it happened right around the same time that I came into contact with some small wash-board type bumps, nothing major at all, you woudn't even notice them normally. So the car lurches, pulls to one side, and slows itself a tad bit. hmmm.

So I turn off PSM, wick up the pace a bit and go through some corners now trying to hit the small bumps and I can't get it to do anything. So I turn PSM back on and hit a few corners aiming for the bumps and it's fine. Then I go around another corner and it did it again.

No fault codes on the dash display at all. So now I'm a little freaked and I don't trust the car. I know that if I take it into Porsche and it doesn't read any fault codes there probably isn't a whole lot they can do. They're not going to go actually drive it at a good pace through corners to duplicate the problem.

Anyone have an Idea what it may be?

Okay, so I was rushing home yesterday, not feeling well and I was speeding in the TT (go figure). On my radar detector, I have X-Band disabled as California has not used X-Band radar in years and don't remember the last time I saw an officer using X-Band.

But he got me going 83, radar detector never went off. Anyone in CA noticed X-band recently or heard anything?

And yes, thank goodness that I'm a giving guy and donated to the wonderful organization of the CHP 11-99 Foundation. It saved my behind just as it does for the spouses of those great officers.

:thankyou:

Ben

Does your detector pick-up POP? They're not supposed to use it but who's going to know. Just like they're not supposed to use stop watches from planes but who's going to know. Funny thing, my Bell & Ross has a Tachymeter on it and last time I drove over the hill from Tahoe down I80, right around Applegate, there are these big thick white stripes painted on the road... so I started my tachymeter at the first white stripe that I saw and stopped it at the next big thick white stripe farther down the road and wouldn't you know it... they're exactly 1,000 Meters apart. I was driving exactly 70mph and my watch said 70mph right on the dot. Wish I would have noticed that last year when I got a ticket in my EVO down there, by the cop airplane... speed traps in Cali are not allowed, and using a stopwatch from a plane is considered a speed trap because they have to use a measured off distance; they can use a plane, but they're supposed to pace you.. and all planes read ground speed right? Uh no... would have fought that one if I would have known that at the time.

I don't know how you could keep k-band on in N. Cal let alone x-band; at least anywhere near the Bay or San Jose.

I was just down there over the weekend and they have those devices all over the place that I assume measure traffic flow; and they use a quick but strong burst of k-band almost every 17 seconds or so. My k-band would peg out just about every couple miles, but there were never any cops anywhere just these little white tube shaped devices mounted to poles. It was annoying...

I know you talk about it in the past but no firm answer....My clutch expansion tank in front is always overfilled after an hour drive. Some of you are suggesting in previous post (here or 6speed) to replace the clutch slave cylinder other are talking about the accumulator or even both. As per repair manual there is a test to do for the accumulator which is: 1. Cold start engine (accumulator temperature approx. 20°C) and let run for approx. 20 seconds

(accumulator is full).

2. With the engine switched off, depress the clutch pedal repeatedly until an abrupt rise in pedal resistance

against your foot can be felt (accumulator is empty). While doing this, count the number of depressions

carried out up to the point of the rise in pedal pressure!

3. If the number of times the pedal was depressed is over 35, the accumulator is −arrow− faulty and must be

replaced!

I did it on my car and no difference even after 100 depressions of the pedal. Can you check on your car if this test is valid and let me know. Because I don't understand why a faulty accumulator can cause fluid migration. To me an accumulator is an inline reservoir who provide a sudden surge protection on the hydraulic system or extra fluid under pressure (bladder type)in case of hydraulic system failure . At least on the aircraft that I am working on...

Let me know how you fix it....And were to purchase those parts...

Thanks for your help, info and replied, J.P.

996 116 237 52 slave cylinder

996 314 166 00 accumulator (nil pelican parts ???)

I sort of had the same problem... I noticed small drops of fluid on the ground behind my front driver side wheel. Took it to porsche and they said that the clutch fluid reservoir was over filled, no biggie, empty fluid out, clean up the mess, and sent me home. A day later, more spots on the ground. Took it back to them and then they discovered that the fluid was leaking out from another area and over filling the clutch reservoir which caused the whole system to over pressurize. They ened up having to replace the master cylinders or the acumulator (can't remember exactly, I'd have to look at my paperwork) for the clutch, brakes and someting inside the steering... ended up costing over $2,000... thank God for Warranty... $50.00 deductible

Does anybody have any pics of a TT with black Sport techno wheels mounted? or even just pics of these wheels black.

These wheels...

I've noticed that all the Porsche (N0,1,2,3, etc) tires for the 996TT have been fairly close to 25mm in overall diameter give or take .4mm or so. Do these cars have to have tires that fall within a set overall diameter range in order for the PSM, ABS, AWD, systems to work right?

I want to run Toyo RA1's but they don't come in the stock size for the rear, you have to jump up to a 305/35/18 which has a 26mm overall diameter, would this screw anything up?

Just wondering... someone was telling me that the stock TT's fuel system was pretty much maxed out after a ECU tune and even then they are only getting the AFR's to around 12.5 under full boost. I know 12.5 makes the most power but that's only if you're running high octane fuel or a methanol/water injection system...otherwise turbo cars usually run safely in the 10's and 11's AFR's. I know that normally one of the first steps in tuning a turbo car is to change over to a higher flow fuel pump so as to lower some of the injector duty cycle, but I rarely ever see anybody talk about doing that when modifying Turbo's. I know the GT2 has a higher flow pump, and so I was wondering if the X50's did also because they're running the same turbo's. Do the TT's have a built in knock sensor that can be read when programming an ECU on a dyno? I realize they aren't making much boost but on 91 octane at 12.5 afr on full boost I'm curious what the knock count is.

Okay, a matter of symantics I guess... a BOV vents to atmosphere and a diverter recirculates the excess back into the intake track.

That would not be symantics.

As far as them comming apart; that's why this poll is here. I'm told that it is a myth among Turbo owners, so i wanted to see how many owners have actually had a problem with the "Diverter" valves. Don't you think that if a $100 part was causing catastropic failure of a $3,000 part (turbo) that Porsche would issue a TSB or a recall so as to save themselves from expensive warranty repairs? Like I said, I have a friend that runs the stockers on his race car with no problems.

If you want some real information, why don't you just ask some of the folks that do repairs (rather than owners). The DVs probably do not fail under warranty with stock systems (hence no concern from Porsche for warranty repairs). The problem is with modding (boosting 1.2 plus). This the stock DVs do not handle as well... I'm glad your friend runs his "race car" and is willing to redo the turbos...that of course is his choice. Most folks that actually have "race cars" rebuild their engines anyway so who cares what they run?

The guys that I'm talking to ARE Porsche mechanics; they also race. They both work for a shop called Sport Haus; one is the head tech and the other is the parts guys. The shop has been around for over 30 years, so yes they know Porsche's pretty darn well. And although there's only 14 votes, I don't even see 1 that says failure or leak...

If you have a turbo please vote...

DV's are not blow off valves (BOV).... So the deal is the stock DVs are fine for performance...the issue is that when they go the pieces go into the turbos...that can get expensive. My tuner has seen the effects of DVs disintegrating into the turbo (he builds and rebuilds turbos). So it is just not worth the chance.

Okay, a matter of symantics I guess... a BOV vents to atmosphere and a diverter recirculates the excess back into the intake track. As far as them comming apart; that's why this poll is here. I'm told that it is a myth among Turbo owners, so i wanted to see how many owners have actually had a problem with the "Diverter" valves. Don't you think that if a $100 part was causing catastropic failure of a $3,000 part (turbo) that Porsche would issue a TSB or a recall so as to save themselves from expensive warranty repairs? Like I said, I have a friend that runs the stockers on his race car with no problems.

Another question... does anybody know if the stock BOV's are "pull" or "push" types.

Having read many posts and blogs on numerous forums regarding modifying TT's, I keep coming across a common recommendation to change out the stock diverters valves, hereby referred to as BOV's. Most topics on the subject claim that the stock BOV's either leak or fail if running higher boost applications. After consulting a friend of mine that works for a very well established Porsche tuner and repair shop, races a 993TT Cup car and is teamed with a friend that races a 996TT cup car, I came away with the impression that our stock BOV's are more than capable of doing their job. Matt's 996TT makes around 700hp and he still uses the stock bov's and said that he thinks the rumor was started by parts suppliers just wanting to sell some of their parts. Not knowing enough about it to argue either way I figured I'd post this poll to see if there is any legitimacy to the claims.

Hi,

My 2004 996TT has been pulling to the right a little and I think she is ready for the first alignment since I have her. I haven't checked the price with the dealer yet, but I'm sure they are far more expensive than the local Big-O. My question is, does the local Big-O do the same job as the dealers or I should bring it to the dealer?

Thanks, Eugene

I think P-cars have unusual alignment settings that they use; I'm sure anyone could do the alignment as long as you give them what the #'s are supposed to be.

after shopping around ...there are like 7 ,so far ..companies that make aftermarket exhaust...

My question is :

whats the best bang for your buck after market exhaust for the 997 turbo?

Lemon

Screw the buck! Wait for these...

Full Titanium Exhaust

I just replaced the rear struts....found a very light colored and highly viscous oil on the driveway....it was too fine to be engine oil, and it turned out to be a leaking strut (AKA shocks). Loren helped me change out both struts kuz you have to do both if one dies....I was unaware that you need to replace both even though only one is leaking....but you replace both to ensure an even keel. Wait...a keel is in a boat.....well....you know what I mean. Help me out here Loren.

Chuck

Speaking of struts... does anybody know If Ohlins makes struts or coil-overs that work on the Turbo? Don't need anything hyper aggresive with remote reservoirs, etc just want something like a road & track set-up.

At first I thought you pranksters might be playing a gullable joke; like headlight fluid and muffler bearings... :D

What wheels are these?

that's easy-they're RUF "Boat Anchors"! anyone ever weight them?

They weigh a lot? That's one area I'm anal about, unsprung weight and rotational mass; that's why I'll never run 19's too much weight. I wish i could afford the Dymag carbon mags... sweet!

Who, besides BBS, is making light wheels for Porsche Turbo's? I see that Volk has a light wheel but it's ugly.

Have you jacked up the car by the engine crankcase ? If yes look for leaking motor mounts.

No I haven't, but the motor mounts can leak? They have liquid in them?

This thing is screwing with me now... I scheduled to put it back in the shop to have the leak checked out, that was Friday when I made the appointment. No leak Sat or Sun, so I cancelled my Monday appointment figuring they can't fix what they can't find. Monday morning before I leave I look under it and don't see anything wet on the floor...cool. I get home from work Monday afternoon and as I'm pulling into the driveway I see it, small puddle where the car was parked...get out and check it, same substance, I'm thinking it's coolant because when it dries on my finger it gets a little sticky. But it's completely random when it leaks... what gives?

What wheels are these?

That's your oil tank.

If you tighten it be sure and support the upper nut (with a wrench) or you might twist it off the tank.

Well that plug is weaping for sure, but I found some more drips on my floor this morning but they didn't come from there. Same side of the car but closer to the rear; fluid is tea colored and very viscous but has an oily feel to it that gets a little sticky when dry. Could be coolant but it doesn't have much of an odor.

My luck; this car was perfect it's whole life, I buy it... and I'm fixing small leaks and issues once a week. It's under warranty so what the hell. Could it be that it came from a warm humid climate to a dry cold climate and the seals and metal are expanding?

She better start acting right or I'm trading her in on a GT-R haha!

The plug with the copper gasket ... what is it?

It's been weeping a few drops of oil.

Just had a major service done too; would they have changed out that copper gasket? Can I just tighten it to make it stop?

Well I dropped my car off at Porsche today and like everyone else has said before they don't fix the cylinders, they just want to replace the whole thing. Now I'm not sure if the "whole" thing also means the pump, I have to clarify that tomorrow. If they do want to replace the whole thing and my warranty does't cover it I'll probably just attempt to have one of my cylinder shops repair it. If it comes to that I'll let everyone know the results. Then again, even if they do replace it I'll ask for the parts back and I might see if I can fix them anyway.

Any results to report on this? I am curious what your cylinder shop says.

The dealer replaced the whole thing, including the pump, under warranty. I asked if I could have the parts but they said that they had to keep them for the warranty claim. So... no joy. But I would bet that a cylinder shop could fix them.

I know this is an old topic, but after doing some searching it seems to very common. Has anybody figured out the glitch?

I too have the same issue.

Car came with 2 keys, 1 key worked all functions including seat memory, 2nd key worked everything except the seat memory. I assumed the 2nd key was bad so I bought a replacement and had my dealership program the car to it. It too won't operate the seat memory.

Here's the odd thing...

The little key icon button on the memory seat setting buttons will set the seats and mirrors to the settings that are supposed to be stored to what ever key is in the ignition. So I attempted to store a setting in the new key and it won't work when unlocking the car but if you put the key in the ignition and push the key button it goes to the settings that are supposed to be stored to that key. So that tells me that the car knows what key is being used and it even knows which settings are assigned to said key but evidently it doesn't correlate the radio code that's transmitted from the FOB to the memory settings that are stored to that keys RFID chip. God I wish I had a PIWIS! One sold on Ebay the other day for 2K... I should of jumped on it.

According to the manual you can delete the key fob memory settings by holding in the key button and the "2" button for +5 seconds. I tried that and it didn't do anything. I noticed also that there are two different versions of the memory seat option. Some have the "M" "key icon" "1" and "2" buttons and the other has the "M," "1" "2" and "3" buttons. According to the pre-2003 manual you set the memory by pressing the "M" and the lock button on the key fob. According to the 2003 manual you use the "M" button along w/ the "key" button. I've tried both to no avail.

Gave my dealer a print out of the "Incorrect Programming Of Vehicle Keys" TSB and they did it and it fixed the problem.

I just bought a set of Italian Replica 18 x 10 wheels to use as my winter wheels and the quality is awesome, fit and finish is perfect, but... they're def not hollow spoke cause they weigh more than my OEM 18 x11's . But they're perfect for winter wheels, they have a lifetime warranty and I understand why, they're def built well, very beefy. Do a Google for Finishline Wheels, that's where I bought mine for dirt cheap.

Well I dropped my car off at Porsche today and like everyone else has said before they don't fix the cylinders, they just want to replace the whole thing. Now I'm not sure if the "whole" thing also means the pump, I have to clarify that tomorrow. If they do want to replace the whole thing and my warranty does't cover it I'll probably just attempt to have one of my cylinder shops repair it. If it comes to that I'll let everyone know the results. Then again, even if they do replace it I'll ask for the parts back and I might see if I can fix them anyway.

I just had a new DME from FVD and EVO divertor valves installed in my 2003 911 TT, the power is amazing I love how it woke up my car however there is a flat spot in the power between 4000 and 5000 rpms. The car also seems to miss and studder when under full boost, 1.1 to 1.2 bar, finally today after a bad episode the check engine light came on. Any suggestion on what this might be.

Thanks Jason

Might need colder sparkplugs, but more likely might need higher flow fuel pump. It could be a lot of things; when increasing boost that much on a stock set-up without any sort of data logging (wide band AFR, knock count,fuel injector cycle duty,exhaust gas temp, etc) you could be asking for trouble. The car might have a fail safe too that tries cutting boost when it gets near 1.3 bar. I don't have a lot knowledge when it comes to Porsches but I have dealt with lots of modified turbo cars in the past and they all seem to have the same quirks when you go for the quick and easy bump in horsepower. Just because they change the fuel maps and boost pressure maps doesn't mean the fuel injectors or the fuel pump can keep up. And if it's a generic program that wasn't built spec. for your car it could be doing all kinds of things.

In my Evo I had to detune the factory map because it would start to knock at WOT at around 155+ , our crappy 91 octane fuel can't quite resist the urge to detonate. Of course most people without data logging equipment would have no idea and they assume that the factory maps are safe. So just be cautious; if reliable horsepower was that easily attained why would Porsche come out with an $18k dollar upgrade just to get 36 more HP like the X50 package?