Dus10R

I bought a car that had these installed already. The driver side one doesn't light up at all and the passenger side only lights up partial. Does anyone know if these have replaceable bulbs or are they some kind of Electo Luminescent material like indiglo?

Here's the info. that Techart sent me just in case anybody else has this issue. The material that glows is EL so it's not likely that it dies, it's more likely that the little inverters die.

Illum_Door_Sills.pdf

Does anyone know if the hydraulic rams are available from Porsche as a separate new part?

Yes, but Porsche also recommends new lines/fittings.

The bleeding/adjusting procedure will also need to be performed.

This seems to be a pretty common problem; where do the lift cylinders leak from? Can they be rebuilt by a hyd. cylinder shop? I deal with expensive heavy equipment hydraulic issues all of the time and we can have almost all of our hyd. cylinders rebuilt. Usually the rod gets marred and causes the seal to leak and we can have the rode refinished and a new seal put in. I ask because I too have noticed that the bottom of my lift cylinders is a little wet with hyd. fluid so I know that it's leaking. It's still working for the time being but it's just a matter of time before I start to get the wing malfunction warning.

I had the same feeling when I bought my 996. Do a seach for "My EVO handles better than my 996".

I read your old post; that was pretty funny, that guy refusing to believe that a Evo could handle better than a Porsche. You can gurantee that he'd never driven one. But I, like you, still think that the Evo has better top end handling than the Porsche. The Porsche needs a little more down force and some better high speed dampening on the suspension and it will surely surpass the Evo. But the little Evo is a wicked car for the price point.

With snow tires it shouldn't be that bad considering the weight is over the drive tires. However, what most Porsche drivers don't know is that you are supposed to turn OFF PSM when driving in snow. PSM isn't designed for snow it's designed to correct for understeer and oversteer on dry roads and it will start functioning too much in the snow and will make the car drive oddly. Don't know if your manual mentions it or not but in the C4 and Turbo manual it says to turn off PSM when driving in snow. Oddly enough they do drive better in snow with it off. The trick in snow is to be smooth and always assume understeer.

What looks ok to you? I think it's a scam....

It's out of China right? Here's the deal... there are two ways this happens.

1.) Most electronic companies out source their manufacturing to guess where? China.

2.) Most electronic companies look into out sourcing their manufacturing to guess where? China.

In both instances, the Chinese companies at some point get access to the design.

Now what happens is that they will make one modification to the design, give it a new name, and call it thier own design. This happens all the time. Even in their automobile industry, they copy from everyone.

Kicker is, their stuff isn't subpar either; most of their manufacturing is ISO9000 compliant; who do you think builds most of the worlds electronics.

I've dealt with this first hand with some electronic components that they supposedly wanted to purchase for consumption. So a design team came up with a design and prototype and took it to China to demo. The Chinese company turned down the design and said that they opted to not go ahead with the project. Unbenowst to the designers, the Chinese copied it, made 1 small change, and started producing it as their own design and started reselling it to other actual consumers. Nice eh?

If you search, you'll find that they have already done that to Apple's I-Phone too. In that case they actually made some improvements.

So the PIWIS's you see are legit clones.

I live in Nevada, and there are plenty of roads here where you can drive 150+ and never see another soul for hours. I recently sold a Mitsubshi Evo VIII MR and bought a 2003 Turbo X50. I was quite suprised at the Porsche's high speed handling; I'd read articles in the past that talked about how effortless it was to drive a Porsche at Autobahn speeds and how stable they felt. But coming from my Japanese grocery cart, comparitively the Porsche doesn't have the stability at speed that it did. Granted, the Evo has tons of obnoxious boy racer kit: wings, lips, belly venturi panel and vortex generators (stock), but they were all functional, not just for looks. Mitsubishi claims that at 100mph the rear wing with the optional gurney flap creates 75lbs of downforce at the rear alone; I think the Turbo makes 16lbs. I can tell you that the Evo at 162mph was rock solid and very confidence inspiring. Like most of you I don't get that same feeling with the Porsche. It gets light and very sensitive at those speeds. It needs more downforce. I can't believe that Porsche didn't sort all of that out in testing. Now after doing some recent research (especially now that all the car mags are comparing it to the GT-R) I read the opposite of what I used to, that Porsche's don't have the high speed stability that a lot of the newer cars have. My guess is that at 100 to 130 they are great, and that's probably where 95% of Porsche owners tread in their "opening her up" outings, so Porsche probably hasn't had that many complaints about it in the past. Like Corvette Z06 owners, cars that are capable of going almost 200 but 98% of their owners drive them 60mph in the fast lane and may if they're feeling spry get them up to 120 or so. I doubt Chevy ever hears anything about their high speed stability from their owner's.

So... I've been on the hunt for some less obvious aero fixes and they are hard to find. The problem could be remedied for little money but there doesn't seem to be a whole lot out there except full body kits which are mainly for looks. A carbon fiber front lip for the stock bumper with small canards that have a higher angle of attack to them would do nicely for the front. Even a different front belly cover with some venturi design. On the back, a small gurney flap on the lower stock wing (4mm or so) would increase downforce and decrease drag and would close the small gap that exists between the top spoiler and the bottom when closed.

Can't find any of this stuff... the only thing that comes close is the gurney flap for the GT3; it may work. As for the front... haven't seen anything viable as of yet, and that's where I feel the car needs most help.

Has anybody tried lowering the front slighlty more than the back and increase the whole car's AOA?

I'd lay money on the fact that now, after the GT-R is getting such great praise for it's high speed abilities, that the next 911 model to come out will have greatly increased down force.

I know this is an old topic, but after doing some searching it seems to very common. Has anybody figured out the glitch?

I too have the same issue.

Car came with 2 keys, 1 key worked all functions including seat memory, 2nd key worked everything except the seat memory. I assumed the 2nd key was bad so I bought a replacement and had my dealership program the car to it. It too won't operate the seat memory.

Here's the odd thing...

The little key icon button on the memory seat setting buttons will set the seats and mirrors to the settings that are supposed to be stored to what ever key is in the ignition. So I attempted to store a setting in the new key and it won't work when unlocking the car but if you put the key in the ignition and push the key button it goes to the settings that are supposed to be stored to that key. So that tells me that the car knows what key is being used and it even knows which settings are assigned to said key but evidently it doesn't correlate the radio code that's transmitted from the FOB to the memory settings that are stored to that keys RFID chip. God I wish I had a PIWIS! One sold on Ebay the other day for 2K... I should of jumped on it.

According to the manual you can delete the key fob memory settings by holding in the key button and the "2" button for +5 seconds. I tried that and it didn't do anything. I noticed also that there are two different versions of the memory seat option. Some have the "M" "key icon" "1" and "2" buttons and the other has the "M," "1" "2" and "3" buttons. According to the pre-2003 manual you set the memory by pressing the "M" and the lock button on the key fob. According to the 2003 manual you use the "M" button along w/ the "key" button. I've tried both to no avail.

I know this is an old topic, but after doing some searching it seems to very common. Has anybody figured out the glitch?

I too have the same issue.

Car came with 2 keys, 1 key worked all functions including seat memory, 2nd key worked everything except the seat memory. I assumed the 2nd key was bad so I bought a replacement and had my dealership program the car to it. It too won't operate the seat memory.

Here's the odd thing...

The little key icon button on the memory seat setting buttons will set the seats and mirrors to the settings that are supposed to be stored to what ever key is in the ignition. So I attempted to store a setting in the new key and it won't work when unlocking the car but if you put the key in the ignition and push the key button it goes to the settings that are supposed to be stored to that key. So that tells me that the car knows what key is being used and it even knows which settings are assigned to said key but evidently it doesn't correlate the radio code that's transmitted from the FOB to the memory settings that are stored to that keys RFID chip. God I wish I had a PIWIS! One sold on Ebay the other day for 2K... I should of jumped on it.

Engine compartment (air) temperature sensor. This sensor tells the DME when to turn the engine compartment purge fan on.

As I recall it slides on a clip on the intake manifold. The probe should not be touching anything.

Roger that, thanks.

I see that you live in Roseville... do you know Paul Vernon? He's a big German car nut and hangs out with a bunch of exotic car owner types, and his wife is in charge of merchandising for Neillo.

You could see if the one for the Turbo Aerokit spoiler fits?

See TSB 6b/01 6658 Aerokit "Turbo" -- dated 9-13-2002

Didn't know such an animal existed, thanks.

Only thing I have seen is complete blade replacements...TechArt, Strosek, Gemballa

Sort of a shame, gurney flaps are really inexpensive and yield a high amount of downforce and actually reduce drag. Most replacement wings I have seen just increase the angle of attack, so they do produce more down force but at the cost of drag. A really simple carbon fiber gurney flap on the trailing edge of the airfoil chord, aprox 1.25 - 1.5% of the chord width (wing width from leading edge to trailing edge) would do wonders in improving the rear downforce while reducing the drag coeffecient at the same time. I wish I had carbon fiber skills and an autoclave, I would make one myself. They are avialable to buy but most of them are straight across and wouldn't fit the stock turbo wing correctly.

I found this sensor hanging loose today when I removed my airbox to change out filters. What is it and where does it normally mount?

Those are considered "Winter Wheels" for a 996TT. Porsche uses smaller wheels for recommended winter wheels 18 x 10 ET 47 mm - so you can fit chains if needed.

996TT summer rear wheels would be 18 x 11 ET 63/65 mm.

That's exactly what I want, a set of winter wheels. So you think that smaller Boxster wheel will fit?

The tire rack sold me 265/35/18 snow tires for my Turbo, the only problem is they mounted them on my 18 x 11 Sport techno's and they are too skinny for that wheel. I called the Tire Rack to complain and they swore to me that the tire is safe and won't have any problems, however, I'm not sold with their explanation and you can can clearly tell the the tire is too narrow for the 11" wheel, the side wall is angled in not up.

So I found where Porsche recommended that size tire too for the rear but they say to mount them on 18 x 10 wheels w/ 47mm offset.

So my question is this. Will a Sport Techno wheel 18 x 10 w/ a 47mm offset for a Boxster, work on a Turbo?

Porsche Wheel Link

Is there a difference in the wheel to make it not work on a Turbo?

Has anybody come across any carbon fiber gurney flaps that can be added to the stock rear wing? They work really well at increasing downforce with very minimal drag. I want to increase downforce a little front and back but I want to make it as unobtrussive as possible for right now. I'm still searching for a method to increase front downforce unobtrussively, but will probably have to make something of my own design unless I can find a lower lip with small canards at the sides. I would swap over to a GT2 kit but my wife isn't sold on the boy racer looks.

Ebay Auction Porsche wheels

Just wondering if these would fit a Turbo. I need a 10' rear for snow tires.

Yes, if you disconnect the battery for 5 minutes or more the DME will go back to it's basic program. It will then re-learn to your driving style. You won't see a huge difference but you will see some.

The control unit for the Tiptronic does the same - so I guess Tiptronic drivers might see the most change.

What are "radio codes" that were referred to above?

Hi. I understand that the stock 996 TT wheels are hollow spoke. I am looking at a car that has the Sport Techo option. Is this considered an inferior option versus the hollow spoke or did Porsche create a hollow spoke version of the Sport Techno for the TT? Thanks for the help!

Sport Techno are hollow spoke and where a factory option when you ordered a car.

You should always change your front spoiler and rear wing together so you do not upset the cars balance at high speed.

Have you looked at Porsche's Aerokit for the TT?

Yeah I looked at the factory aerokit, but I'm not sold on it's looks. I was thinking about going with the GT2 kit front and back, I'm sure it has to add some more downforce correct?

what year and model?

2003 Turbo X50

I'd like to reset the ECU so that the car will start learn it's new atmosphere/elevation, etc more quickly. Does disconnecting the battery do this? Also, does disconnecting the battery do anything funny to the car? I know you have to reset the windows but about the remotes for the locks and settings?

I just bought the turbo but can already tell that it needs more downforce. My comparison car is my Mitsubishi Evo MR. At 160mph the Evo is rock solid; you can change lanes, go around corners, hit mild bumps with very little effect. The Turbo isn't as confidence inspiring. One... under full acceleration the front end gets very light and vague. Two... at 140mph+ it doesn't feel all that planted, kind of floats around a bit. What options exist for increasing the downforce? Does the GT2 front bumper make more downforce? I know you can swap out tails to increase the rear downforce but it seems pointless with the front being so light already.

Hi guys,

I am considering trading my '01 boxster (40k miles) in for a '03 996 with 22 k miles driven. I test drove the Carrera and it drives wonderfully...that being said I am far from being a Porsche expert or having deep knowledge on mechanics. Because it would be a big investment for me I want to make sure the car is worth it. The car comes with a 30 day warranty attached. I am getting it from a GM dealer. The vehicle has had only one owner, who traded it in for a Corvette. The carfax shows no problem...

My questions are: what should I look for in the car? Is it safe to buy the car and take it to a mechanic and if I identify any problem have it fixed under the 30 days warranty? The car is in a different state...otherwise I would take it to my mechanic before the purchase. Does Porsche offer an extended warranty plan that I can buy or do I have to go for an aftermarket one (I currently have an aftermarket one on my Boxster, but have never used it).

Sorry for the many questions.Thank you so much for your help. Any opinion will be very appreciated.

Gus

:renntech:

Get a PPI for sure. Then inquire a Porsche dealership about having a used car warranty inspection done. According to Porsche, any car up to 10 years old, can have a 100 point (can't remember if that's right) dealer inspection done, and if it passes the inspec tion or if you have them fix any items they find to bring it into compliance, Porsche will give you a limited 1 or 2 year warranty.

Not according to the VIN report. But the option sticker on the front hood says yes.

So, I suggested he check the turbos and the muffler (X50 uses GT2 turbos and muffler).

Aren't the intercoolers on the back different too? The X50 intercoolers are really rough, the fins are more protruding, where a normal turbo intercooler is smoother.

I just bought this car; it did have a PPI done and they found nothing. I've driven it once and then parked it in my garage. Today I notice a very small puddle of coolant underneath it. So I took these pictures hoping someone could do a visual diagnosis. It's right at a gasket junction next to the exhaust manifold so logic tells me gasket, but it could be leaking down from somewhere else. It's on the passenger side. The car came from Texas, where I don't think it's as cold as it has been here (20's). Could the cold be contracting the seals so that they seep a little.