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About waymegelli

  • Rank
  • Birthday 06/20/1954

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  • Gender
  • Interests
    Porsches, woodworking, electronics, gardening, cooking

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  • From
    Fort Worth, Texas
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2002 Lapis Blue Turbo
  • Former cars
    1983 911 SC - sold it to buy furniture and always regretted it.
  1. Cosmo96 - Sorry to have hijacked your thread. I hope you got some benefit out of this, too. I'll do as suggested above and start a new thread after I figure out how to post a video.
  2. The engine related mods are a Europipe Stage 1 exhaust, the softronic flash and the DVs. Turbos are original K16s. First - My sustained flash??? I assume you mean boost - I haven't driven it too much lately, but I'm fairly sure it's 1.0. I'll try to find a good place to verify that soon. Second - If I take ti somewhere to get the codes read, what do I tell them to look for? Third - I believe I installed the DVs correctly, but I've been told I should double check the bottom of the forward one. Also, I should replace the ford clamps with stainless screw clamps. There goes my weekend
  3. Let me butt in here and ask a question based on my recent experience. I have a 2002 996TT and recently did some upgrades. Before the upgrades, I typically saw 0.7 or 0.8 boost under sustained acceleration. I did a Softronic ECU flash and saw 1.2, although this was only on one or two occasions. Then I installed Forge diverter valves with the medium pressure spring and only see 1.0 max now. Do I need a weaker or stronger spring, or do you think I have a leak?
  4. I haven't replaced the DVs yet, but that's my next step. I installed a Europipe exhaust and just did the Softronic chip last night. I makes quite a difference! I want to do a 60-130 run before I tear the car up to put in the DVs. Ask me in about a week and I'll tell you how difficult - or easy - it is. Here's a question for you - which spring do you intend to use? My Forges came with three springs and two spacer plates. The instructions on the Vivid site explain the differences, but don't make any recommendations. I'd hate to install one type and then decide to change it to another -
  5. You've all been almost right - not only did I fry my ECU by connecting the battery conditioner incorrectly, I also fried something in the alternator, so as the battery was dying, I got all the flashing lights. The dealer replaced the alternator, recharged the battery and checked everything out. It runs like it's supposed to now and I'm going to do the Softronic chip from Vivid in the next couple of days. Major lesson learned - don't hook up a battery conditioner backward or be prepared to pay about $3000 to fix things. OUCH!
  6. A few days ago, I posted a question about the battery conditioner I incorrectly attached to my 996 TT for four months. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the ECU that was fried and I got the car back on Friday, June 19. It ran fine on the 20 mile drive home and again Sunday morning when I went out to do some P-Box 60-130 runs. I installed a new Europipe exhaust Sunday afternoon and went out for a drive. After about 10 miles, various warning lights came on - in fact, I think every possible warning light came on including brake failure, passenger airbag failure, check engine, etc, etc
  7. Here's an update for anyone interested - I drove the car to the dealer in first gear. I explained what I'd done and they took it to run some diagnostics. After about an hour, they reported that I fried the ECU. Attaching the positive lead of the charger to the negative of the battery for such a long time somehow screwed up the system. The charger instructions say it will shut down if connected incorrectly. I wonder if I can pursue a claim? Anyway, the damage was going to be about $2300, but since I'm a member of PCA, they reduced it by 15%, then they found another discount they could a
  8. Thanks Loren - I plan to drive it to the dealer this morning. The shop I prefer to take it to requires me to drive on the highway - not so good in first gear. ard. - I hate to admit it, but I installed the conditioner with the positive lead to the negative terminal, and the negative lead to the car chassis. The car was dead when my son came over to get it ready for me. He jumped it to get it started. I don't know the details of the jump, but he didn't mention any problems. He said it started right up. When I got home last night, it was dead. I used my normal battery charger (not th
  9. I'm finally home and here's what the car is doing. It starts OK, but the red LEDs that indicate which gear the car is in flashes alternately between D and 4 (or M and 4 if I have it in Manual) and the Check Engine Light is on all the time. It won't shift out of 1st manually or by running it up to redline. Also, probably related, the radio won't turn on. Any ideas?
  10. Before going to Iraq in February, I bought a battery conditioner from Griots and put it on my 02 996TT. It has been on the car since then. Yesterday, my boys went to the house to prepare the car for my return and tell me that I put the conditioner on incorrectly and now the car won't shift out of first gear (it's a tiptronic). Can someone help me fix this or is it something I have to take to the dealer?
  11. I signed up for my first Driver's Ed in July. I know I need to get a helmet, fire extinguisher, and check out. but I have been hearing/reading many other suggestions as well. Do you think I need a clear coat to protect the paint? Is painters tape OK? Headlight covers? I am all about cost/benefit. I'll spend the money, if it is worth it down the road. Any other beginner/simple mods before I head out to the track? I'd like to offer my two cents worth about your first DE. DON'T DO IT! I did one, then another, then another.... Now I'm doing $10K worth of upgrades to my engine and suspension.
  12. I was just about to order a pair of Forge diverter valves for my 2002 996 TT when I came accross an ad for an Agency Power blow off valve. It seems to accomplish the same thing as the diverter valves, but by a different method. In my research, I dicovered that people often change thier diverter valves, not because they've failed, but to prevent potential damage to the turbo if they do disintegrate. My questions - Does anyone have any experience with these blow off valves? If I install the blow off valve, should I replace the DVs anyway, or does the BOV take the place of the DVs? Thanks!
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