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Everything posted by waymegelli
The engine related mods are a Europipe Stage 1 exhaust, the softronic flash and the DVs. Turbos are original K16s. First - My sustained flash??? I assume you mean boost - I haven't driven it too much lately, but I'm fairly sure it's 1.0. I'll try to find a good place to verify that soon. Second - If I take ti somewhere to get the codes read, what do I tell them to look for? Third - I believe I installed the DVs correctly, but I've been told I should double check the bottom of the forward one. Also, I should replace the ford clamps with stainless screw clamps. There goes my weekend. Fourth - You're correct about the different springs and shims that come with the DVs, but my tuner doesn't respond to emails anymore, so I'm just guessing and hoping RennTech people can help. What are all of your mods? and what turbos do you have? (if you have K16s, then 1.0 is probably right for pump gas) First....what is your sustained flash? Spikes don't really count...so is it possible your sustained boost was 1.0 before? (to check sustained boost do WOT in 3rd and 4th). Second, get your codes read as this may provide some clues. Third, did you install the Forge DVs properly? Check the connections. Fourth, you do need the Forge DVs set-up properly with your other mods. I believe there are 2 springs (green and yellow) and some shims (washers)....check with your tuner for their advice for your car.
Let me butt in here and ask a question based on my recent experience. I have a 2002 996TT and recently did some upgrades. Before the upgrades, I typically saw 0.7 or 0.8 boost under sustained acceleration. I did a Softronic ECU flash and saw 1.2, although this was only on one or two occasions. Then I installed Forge diverter valves with the medium pressure spring and only see 1.0 max now. Do I need a weaker or stronger spring, or do you think I have a leak?
I haven't replaced the DVs yet, but that's my next step. I installed a Europipe exhaust and just did the Softronic chip last night. I makes quite a difference! I want to do a 60-130 run before I tear the car up to put in the DVs. Ask me in about a week and I'll tell you how difficult - or easy - it is. Here's a question for you - which spring do you intend to use? My Forges came with three springs and two spacer plates. The instructions on the Vivid site explain the differences, but don't make any recommendations. I'd hate to install one type and then decide to change it to another - I don't think changing springs will be any easier than doing the install.
You've all been almost right - not only did I fry my ECU by connecting the battery conditioner incorrectly, I also fried something in the alternator, so as the battery was dying, I got all the flashing lights. The dealer replaced the alternator, recharged the battery and checked everything out. It runs like it's supposed to now and I'm going to do the Softronic chip from Vivid in the next couple of days. Major lesson learned - don't hook up a battery conditioner backward or be prepared to pay about $3000 to fix things. OUCH!
A few days ago, I posted a question about the battery conditioner I incorrectly attached to my 996 TT for four months. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the ECU that was fried and I got the car back on Friday, June 19. It ran fine on the 20 mile drive home and again Sunday morning when I went out to do some P-Box 60-130 runs. I installed a new Europipe exhaust Sunday afternoon and went out for a drive. After about 10 miles, various warning lights came on - in fact, I think every possible warning light came on including brake failure, passenger airbag failure, check engine, etc, etc. I turned around to go home and the engine began missing once in a while. The it got worse. Then the A/C quit. Then the radio quit. Then more engine missing. Then the windows start going up and down. Finally it completely died about 2 miles from home. I got it towed home and sat down and cried. Not really, but almost. What could be causing this? Maybe I got one of the O2 wires too close to something and it melted? That wouldn't cause all these problems, would it? Did the dealer screw up the new ECU install? I'm having the dealer pick it up this morning, but would like Renntech input in the meantime. Thanks!
Here's an update for anyone interested - I drove the car to the dealer in first gear. I explained what I'd done and they took it to run some diagnostics. After about an hour, they reported that I fried the ECU. Attaching the positive lead of the charger to the negative of the battery for such a long time somehow screwed up the system. The charger instructions say it will shut down if connected incorrectly. I wonder if I can pursue a claim? Anyway, the damage was going to be about $2300, but since I'm a member of PCA, they reduced it by 15%, then they found another discount they could apply and they told me it would be about $1700. Unfortunately, when the unit was shipped from Atlanta Wednesday, it went to Houston, not Fort Worth. It should arrive this morning and be fixed this afternoon. THEN I can start installing all the toys I bought with my extra earnings - Europipe Stage 1, Forge DVs, Softronic flash, PSS10s, GT3 sway bar and adjustable links. I can't wait!
Thanks Loren - I plan to drive it to the dealer this morning. The shop I prefer to take it to requires me to drive on the highway - not so good in first gear. ard. - I hate to admit it, but I installed the conditioner with the positive lead to the negative terminal, and the negative lead to the car chassis. The car was dead when my son came over to get it ready for me. He jumped it to get it started. I don't know the details of the jump, but he didn't mention any problems. He said it started right up. When I got home last night, it was dead. I used my normal battery charger (not the Griots conditioner) and it started when I tried after about 1/2 hour.
I'm finally home and here's what the car is doing. It starts OK, but the red LEDs that indicate which gear the car is in flashes alternately between D and 4 (or M and 4 if I have it in Manual) and the Check Engine Light is on all the time. It won't shift out of 1st manually or by running it up to redline. Also, probably related, the radio won't turn on. Any ideas?
Before going to Iraq in February, I bought a battery conditioner from Griots and put it on my 02 996TT. It has been on the car since then. Yesterday, my boys went to the house to prepare the car for my return and tell me that I put the conditioner on incorrectly and now the car won't shift out of first gear (it's a tiptronic). Can someone help me fix this or is it something I have to take to the dealer?
I signed up for my first Driver's Ed in July. I know I need to get a helmet, fire extinguisher, and check out. but I have been hearing/reading many other suggestions as well. Do you think I need a clear coat to protect the paint? Is painters tape OK? Headlight covers? I am all about cost/benefit. I'll spend the money, if it is worth it down the road. Any other beginner/simple mods before I head out to the track? I'd like to offer my two cents worth about your first DE. DON'T DO IT! I did one, then another, then another.... Now I'm doing $10K worth of upgrades to my engine and suspension. But it's so much fun! First the helmet - you may be able to borrow a friends motorcycle helmet or rent one at the track. Try not to buy one for your first event. You don't need a fire extinguisher- they have plenty of safety equipment at the track. Most PCA DEs require fresh brake fluid - check your local DE rules. In fact, that's probably your best place to start - they'll tell you what you have to do. Don't clear coat your paint unless you're obsessive about appearance. If you track it, it will get dings, live with it. Painters tape for what? Numbers? From my experience, I went to a sign store and had them make magnetic numbers for me, in accordance with the DE rules for size. It only cost about $70 for three sets - left, front and right. Don't make any real mods to the car until you've done a seasons worth of DEs, then decide if you want a track car or a pleasure car and recognize the compromises you'll have to make for each. ENJOY and welcome.
I was just about to order a pair of Forge diverter valves for my 2002 996 TT when I came accross an ad for an Agency Power blow off valve. It seems to accomplish the same thing as the diverter valves, but by a different method. In my research, I dicovered that people often change thier diverter valves, not because they've failed, but to prevent potential damage to the turbo if they do disintegrate. My questions - Does anyone have any experience with these blow off valves? If I install the blow off valve, should I replace the DVs anyway, or does the BOV take the place of the DVs? Thanks!