iornman86

I am also looking for a place to purchase a Rebuilt 6-Speed Transmission for my 996 C2.

I logged into the Vertex and the cost is $3400 + Core, not $2400 + Core.

Can anyone recommend me a place in Southern California that sells and installs transmissions?

Thanks!

call and talk to them, they gave me the old pricing after i talked to them

How long ago did you make your purchase? Was the transmission what you expected quality wise? Did the replacement go smoothly? How much did it cost you in labor for the replacement? Anything else you can tell me about your experience will be greatly appreciated! Thanks again!

I purchased the transmission 2 weeks ago, installed it a week ago. Labor was 0 because i installed it, there was absolutely nothing wrong with the transmission, and it runs great now, their customer service was pretty good, they shipped the advance replacement transmission in 3 days.

I think a shop will charge you around a grand for the labor

I am also looking for a place to purchase a Rebuilt 6-Speed Transmission for my 996 C2.

I logged into the Vertex and the cost is $3400 + Core, not $2400 + Core.

Can anyone recommend me a place in Southern California that sells and installs transmissions?

Thanks!

call and talk to them, they gave me the old pricing after i talked to them

I think it would be helpful if you could us the model and year of the car and a little about it's history (first owner?, mileage?, any previous issues?).

Thanks.

1999 c2 convertible, has over 115k miles on it, i am the 3rd owner and i think the car was tracked before me, i dono just a gut feeling.....

i didnt even ask PAG, i doubt they would have even considered it with my mileage...im on my own, hahaha

i cleaned up all the metal parts that were in there, certainly some decent size chunks

just so everyone knows yes i am being sarcastic, the new one is already in. I didn't know the transmission was in this bad of shape, finding chunks of metal and pieces inside. If everyone wants i have more pictures of the transmission guts. Symptoms were 1st gear popping out, 2nd gear grinding, and the transmission made a noise like a chattering clutch when decelerating, i would imagine from the worn main bearing

i have been thinking about taking the headlight apart and painting everything black except the round headlight to get something similar to that 997 look without the expense...i have a black car so it should blend in well

ill call them but the cost i am looking at with vertex is 2500 + core and shipping, do they do anything special at gbox? what engagement issues are you referring to?

Hello - I have been looking into companies that rebuild transmissions and have narrowed it down to a couple. I was trying to get some feed back on Vertex auto, see if anyone had experience with their rebuilt transmission or as a service company in general

There are two different covers available, depending which type of intermediate shaft is used. They are not interchangeable, in fact the update concerns the width of the O-ring, older engines have a small O-ring and the revised covers have a much larger O ring.

so the replacement cover does not address the failing bearing or the center bolt snapping?

i am not having any leakage issues and am mainly concerned with engine failure

Well it looks like i will be dropping the transmission again soon enough, 1st gear is popping out and 2nd gear is grinding, so a replacement transmission may be in order

I know I say a topic on here once where the IMS plate was updated and i dont remember if the bearing was also. I cant seem to find the thread again. I had replaces the cover bolts last time i was in there but didnt know about the cover update.

Does this help with IMS failures? or does this just update the rubber o-ring to aid oil sealing?

someone told me stock breaklines are stainless steel with rubber overlayed on them for wear reasons....dont know if this is true or not

looks like you need to place the upper section of the cup holder further back, mine work really well

try bending the upper section a little further towards the shifter too...

bought at 101k miles, 109k miles now , lotsa little things replaced, like oil air separator, hydrolic clutch slave, clutch, motor mount, rear convertable window, convertible hydrolic pump, convertible hydrolic cylinder.

as far as i know it is the original engine, and the engine runs strong....

There are 4 relays for the fans on a 996.

1 each for low speed and high speed on each side.

yes i realize that, i pulled all 4 turned on the ac and tested each one individually in one of the high speed slots to verify they worked, i also edited my post above

The best way to check the fans is the runs the tests in a PST2 or PIWIS tester.

That would confirm whether it is a fan (ballast, relay) problem or a stuck thermostat.

well if it were a relay wouldn't the ac have trouble with the fans as well? if the fans worked in high speed just not low speed wouldn't that point to the ballast?

is it a different sensor that causes th fans to kick on vs the hvac hack readout?

is there is something else that would prevent the fans to work? something that the ac system would bypass?

edit : i just searched and the only temperature sensors on the car i can find are the temp sensor on the bumper (for external temperatures), the temperature sensor for the hvac controller ( to adjust the cabin heater/cooler), the one on the intake ( for engine bay temperatures) and the temp sensor on the oil pump (actual engine temperature)

so i guess i need to monitor the voltage on the relay pin vs th ecu to see if there is voltage being sent to the relay. i guess if it is not sending any voltage to the relay then it is a ecu problem, if it is and not reaching the relays then it is a wiring problem. i don't see the wiring for both he high speed and low speed havening issues unless ig somehow got pinched when i was pulling wires for the stereo.....

Wow, that's a tough one. Check this. With the AC on, but you hand NEAR the ballast resistor behind each fan. Easy to see, about the size of a cigar with 3 wires coming from it. In front of the wheel well, but behind the fan. They should be HOT. If they are, then your fans are operating properly at low speed from the AC trigger. If not hot, then they are running at high speed, and you have a bigger problem. I know Dallas is hot, but we've been at 100+ for the last few days and with my Autoenginuity software, I've been monitoring my coolant temp. With my AC off and just driving spiritedly with revs in the 5k range, I had to WORK to get the temp up to 205F (96C). I had to abruptly stop the car in direct sunlight on black asphalt to get the fans to kick in on low speed, and even then, they only went on for like 20 seconds. Becuase they don't not work at either temperature, I'd suspect the coolant temperature sensor. I don't know if the sensor for reading the temp in the HVAC hack is the same one used for the fan control. It's not the relays, as the low speed/AC ones are the same and they obviously work. BOTH high speed ones would have be bad, in you case..unlikely. Maybe there is a different fuse for the fans, but I'd be shocked if they ALL went. Fuses are easy to check. Drivers footwell left side.. Hate to say it but I'd get the Durametric software, which allows you to switch them on through the computer and diagnose it that way. Cheaper than taking it to the dealer and you'll have the software to use over & over again. 109 is very hot, but not dangerous hot (228F). What is the coolant temp with AC on? Mine is 192-4 F (89-90C) with 100F outside temp around town, 190F on the interstate. Seems to me you ARE running too hot, so maybe Tstat? But doesn't explain the fans. Mines an 02 C2, which tend to run cooler than the 3.4's, from what I've read.

well i know the fans are working, because of the ac. when it goes over 102 the high speed fans should be on so it takes the resistor out of the picture for me, neither side works on low or high speed when completely dependent on coolant temperature. the only thing that would make sense is if the hvac is on a different sensor than the fans, however i would think that would throw a code....

when i see the temperature get to 105c on the hvac in stop and go traffic i can turn the ac on and it drops down to 98c or so

just for the record i have a 3.4l 1999 c2

just gotta say, the group on this BBS is much more mature than the group at 6 speed..........no personal attacks here if you happen to disagree....

kudos to you guys.

jorge :renntech:

i second that, the 6speed people tend to come off more as rich snobs, it is just a wealth of knowledge over here, i will be come a contributing member soon enough....

ok so i have noticed in the summer my temperature is fairly high, cleaned out the radiator area this weekend via the bumper removal. I am using the climate control hack to view the engine temperatures. If i drive in stop and go traffic temperatures get up to 109 c. the radiator fans are not turning on.

with the a/c turned on the fans kick on. I have tested all of the relays with the ac on to verify all the relays are working. without the ac on the fans do not turn on low speed when it surpasses 98 c, nor does it turn on high speed when it surpasses 102c.

i know both the fans are good because the kick on very strong with ac on, in fact the car runs cooler with ac on because the fans are running, what could be causing this?

i have not checked the resistors, but regardless of their status they should be kicking on high speed when it surpasses 102 c correct?

well i put in the royal purple, and the tranny is acting better, took a couple of days for it to smooth out....

on a side note i went to porsche initially to but the fluid and they said they used mobile 1 syntetic 75-90, which is not on the "recomended" Mobil Mobilube PTX . they said they dont sell porsche manual transmission fluid which i thought was funny. no one carried the 2 recomended ones that are in the DIY list, however the royal purple seems to be working fine.....

You may want to buy a 90 weight gear oil that does not have the limited slip properties in it, LS friction modifiers act as a lubricant and can hamper synchro's to some extent. Currently Mobil 1 , Lucas, Ryal Purple and a like have LS friction modifiers already in it. The only one I have found is Redline 90 NS that does not. Of course if you have a LS differential then you have to use friction modifiers and have no choice.

the only oil the stores carried was the royal purple, and mobile 1 in terms of synthetic gear oil. i went to various places, i may look around for reline, maybe Dallas mustang carries it

well i put in the royal purple, and the tranny is acting better, took a couple of days for it to smooth out....

on a side note i went to porsche initially to but the fluid and they said they used mobile 1 syntetic 75-90, which is not on the "recomended" Mobil Mobilube PTX . they said they dont sell porsche manual transmission fluid which i thought was funny. no one carried the 2 recomended ones that are in the DIY list, however the royal purple seems to be working fine.....

what would be the benefit?

here is what i did for my stereo. it is very clear, lots of bass and i can hear it just fine with the top down, i loose about an inch in the seats being able to go back but at 6'1" i still am very comfortable. i cant get the clutch in with the seat all the way back anyways.....

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118978

i will try that, royal purple 75-90 gear oil?

thanks for the help this site is the best!

Does the car have short shift kit? I recall when I put mine in 2nd gear was "bumpy", so I ended up removing the kit

i don't believe so but i am the 3rd owner, how would i tell, i guess by removing the center console?

No, you just need to lift the shift boot. (4 snap clips)

yeah it just pulled right off, and it is the stock shifter

Does the car have short shift kit? I recall when I put mine in 2nd gear was "bumpy", so I ended up removing the kit

i don't believe so but i am the 3rd owner, how would i tell, i guess by removing the center console?