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Everything posted by iornman86

  1. thanks for the suggestions. I think my mechanic did something similar to what you suggested and stripped the Nut just like you mentioned -- we've almost got it out -- but need to get a new nut. PITA, Mike so the bearing has begun to pull out?
  2. also the allen bolt i purchased to reinforce the puller was from fastenal, it was "just" barely long enough to reach but it did the job it was 12.8 grade harness or whatever the top one is, i forget, metric stuff and all :) also when you attempt to pull it out you may put a piece of that cardboard around the ims to help center the puller Flat6 thought that may have been part of my issue. I also ground the puller a little. if i remember right the thickness of the puller wall is .2" i ground maybe .05" around just to give a little additional clearance. i wouldn't take too much off otherwise it
  3. Funny -- or sad --- we are having the same problem with our most recent IMSR. Snapped the bolt right at the inner race. we destroyed a Kukko 21-4 as soon as we got it. $90 in 10 sec :-( Not happy. a hand made butterfly/molybolt style extraction "tool" didn't work -- it failed several times. We are going to resort to welding to the ims and trying again. What tool did you use to pull the outer race? Just in case we need to order that one too. thanks, Mike THE kUKKO 21-4 can be reinforced with an allen bolt of the same thread type. grind down the allen bolt head to a wedge sha
  4. well the car is finally back together! I want to thank LN Engineering who overnighted extra tools to me at his expense to help me get this worked out and flat6 for their advice! and the people on this forum whom i could have never figured out how to do all the stuff i have done. for those who are curious here is a list of "maintenance items" i did replace ims bearing lower temp thermostat replaced cam to cam wear pads replaced cam to cam timing chains replaced starter (found the main power lug stripped out) replaced starter again (first napa one was defective made a horrible noise
  5. so that vacuum switch activated the resonance flap on the intake?
  6. is there a vacuum line routing schematic? if not i am tring to figure out what the vacuum switch that is mounted on the drivers side intake under the AOS tube is hooked to
  7. Not sure of your last statement? You didn't put the clip back in did you? the puller never moved the outer race enough to pop the circlip out of place the new bearing comes with a different clip to retain it
  8. well through frustration and despair got the outer race out....it was not pretty but everything looks to be in good condition now, the new bearing is installed. time to start putting everything back together so i can reinstall the engine oh and the circlip never did get popped out of place, i did verify that, not sure why the thing would not ever move, except that it was extremely tight. The new bearing going in was quite tight too, however i do believe the new bearing would pull out if i removed the retaining clip
  9. well I got the new tools in, and when i attempted to pull it out the inner race broke up. i have cleaned up all of the ball bearings and the inner race. From my last conversation with LN Engineering i will need a different puller to extract the outer race from the ims..... when i started the pulling proccess tonight the inner race had cracked already. i tried to center the puller as best as i could however it did not take much force for the race to pull out. I tried to center the race as best as i could by placing a strip of card board arount the ims. this created a shell to help align the
  10. I should have additional tools tomorrow, will update everyone then or Friday, thanks a bunch for the help!
  11. Ok so i have a 1999 c2 convertible that I decided to do the IMS upgrade from LN engineering (dual row bearing. Got the order in last week, and attempted to remove the bearing. The support stud broke. Called LN engineering and they said this happens occasionally and i needed an additional tool from kukko. so I ordered that. The Kukko tool has now broken! There is so much force going into this puller i doubt the tool was defective. I doubt it is possible to pull the bearing. You can see from the pictures where the Kukko puller and the ims bearing were digging into each other so there is a lot
  12. Vertex said they wouldnt worry about it too much either, they rebuild it 2 years ago. I am going to check the oil level and make sure it is not low. Thanks for the pointer about the vent, I will also check that
  13. Just wondering if anyone has ever dealt with the shift linkage on the transmission leaking oil, is it a difficult repair to attempt on your own? any how to's?
  14. pm sent and thanks! I am trying to do some PM with 127k on the OD, I have heard that the rail guides get worn pretty bad on high mileage vehicles, I know i can replace the 2 pads per head on the Vario-cam thingie (sorry not sure of the technical term) but not sure if you can unbolt and replace the pads that run along the chain that go back to the IMS, from schematics it looks like one pad is held on by a bold and moved by an oil driven pressure unit, the other pad is bolted on with 2 bolts, just not sure if the bolts are accessible from the exterior of the engine and if they can be removed/r
  15. Can you just mark the cam gear before pulling the cam gears out to keep the timing accurate? I want to replace all the wear pads on the timing chains but i dont wanna buy 1500 dollars worth of specialty tools....
  16. i have stuck with the mobile 1 0-40 but will probably find a thicker oil on my next oil change. I have 125 k miles and am in Dallas so it gets warm here. I don't think brand will make such a huge difference as long as it is a full synthetic. course that is just my opinion good luck with the convertible top it seems to be source of most of my issues, which i suppose that is better than issues that keep it stuck in the garage. next thing you need to do is put a stereo in it!
  17. the claim shell is driven by a motor and wires, it has a variable resistor on the unit that tells it the motors current position. if the variable resist or develops a dead spot it may cause issues. i replaced my claim shell motor and had issues with it because i didn't set the variable resistor correctly. just a wild guess.....
  18. finally got it, the c-clip fell of the lever that attached to the side hook, couldn't see any of it but i poked around in there with a screwdriver after studying the manuels some more and managed to shift the hook enough to release it. now i just need another c clip
  19. So i replaced the claim shell motor about a year ago (and about every other convertible top part) it appears either the cable to the latch broke or the latch is stuck. one side of the claim shell unlatches and the claim shell tries to go up. the passenger side appears stuck. the emergency screw is not unlatching it either. any suggestions on how i can manually unlatch it? the convertible top is currently in the down position and i am not sure how i am going to get something back there to force the latch to move.
  20. there were other issues i was having, if you just replace the motor you may not need to calibrate it once you open it up it is pretty easy to figure out, just unbolt the lines and pump and bolt the new one it, the filler bolt for the hydrolic oil on some are on the back, mine was on the bottom, i just filled the unit up with oil cycled it and made sure the level was full after cycling it
  21. i had mine replaced at the dealership for about that amount. When i checked into it there were some calibration procedures that have to be done with the porsche diagnostic computer, so it wasnt just a "replacement" thing from what i learned. If course there was also the variable sensor that i had to replace on mine I would check our sunset porsche ( i think that is the sponsor) because i think when i looked it up after the fact they were like 300 bucks cheaper on the parts if i were to personally do it over with i would replace the parts and then take it to them to calibrate it, to save mo
  22. male 26, no wrecks, 3 vehicles, only the Porsche has full coverage, i pay 1200 a year for all 3 vehicles, i think the Porsche was 600 of it.
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