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About GregD

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    Contributing Member

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  • From
    Northampton, U.K.
  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    '99 Boxster 2.5 Manual
  1. Thanks Geoff - but I don't think my car has ever had the centre console. As far as I know it was a factory option (code M581), and this code doesn't appear on the sticker under the bonnet on my car. Can anyone shed any light on whether the fixings for the console are already there under the carpet of the transmission tunnel? Greg
  2. Thanks for the info DC. At the moment, I have nothing but carpet and a big empty space under the dash, so I'll need all of the parts on the diagram. If anyone can tell me how this attaches to the floor (and if it is attached to the underside of the dash, too), that would be great. Greg
  3. Hi, My '99 Boxster does not have the shelf unit under the dash in front of the gear lever, and I'd like to add this unit to my car to get some extra storage space. Has anyone had any experience of doing this? I've searched already and found loads of posts about deleting the console, but none about adding.... On the console delete posts, it looks like the console bolts to the floor via a steel bracket in front of the gear lever. Would the holes these bolts go into be there already on my car, under the carpet? Would I need to cut a piece of carpet out to fit the console? Does the console physically attach to the underside of the dash, too? Thanks Greg
  4. If you open the lid, you'll see about 8 or so torx head screws on the inside of the lid. Remove these, then slide the top (armrest) part of the lid (backwards or forwards - can't 100% remember) and it should come away from the lid frame. This will expose the metal hinge pin which you'll need to tap out to one side with a pin punch. Once removed, this should leave the lid free to come off. The hinge repair kit is needed if the plastic brackets on the centre console (into which the hinge pin fits) have cracked - it's a really poor design as the centre console plastic is quite brittle so will crack if you open the lid with too much rearward force. The kit itself is really easy to install and leaves you with a strong metal hinge in place of the plastic one - you'll need a pop riveter and a few basic tools, and it'll take about a half hour. There's more info in one of the TSBs on this site - which takes you through the process step by step.... Good luck! Greg
  5. Sorry folks, I'm being a muppet. It's a case of RTFM: Page 80 says "close windows with the rocker switch".
  6. Ok - plugged in my shiny new reader and it's come up with a single code - P0306 - Cylinder 6 misfire. I guess that could mean it's as simple as a dodgy spark plug or coil, but does anyone have any experience of other stuff that can trigger this sort of code? Also please can someone tell me which cylinder is no. 6? Thanks Greg
  7. Sorry - it's a 1999 2.5 with a manual gearbox (not sure if the last bit is relevant for any microswitches etc..)
  8. Hi, I've noticed that when lowering or raising the convertible top, the windows drop a couple of inches (as they should), but then don't automatically re-close once the top has finished moving. I need to "manually" press the electric window buttons to get them to close. I'm pretty sure they should close automatically (they do on my friend's 996 cab). Anyone know what could be causing the problem? Cheers Greg
  9. Thanks for the advice guys. Looks like I need to get hold of an OBDII reader. I'll post back when I've got some codes. Greg
  10. Hi, Took my Boxster out of the garage for a drive this morning, after about 4 weeks of not moving it. The car fired first time and seemed to run as normal for the first 6 or 7 miles, by which time it was fully warmed up. Then suddenly, when accelerating from 30 mph out of a village at low-2000s rpm, the car was very hesitant and didn't want to gain rpm. It had a kind of stutter / misfire and after a couple of hundred yards the check engine light flashed on and off about 3 times then stayed on permanently. I pulled over and the engine was sounding a little lumpy at idle, as well as smelling like it was running rich. I could get the engine to hold the revs constant at any speed above idle and the car sounded fine, but trying gain rpm resulted in the same misfiring behaviour. Turning the engine off and turning back on again had no effect on the condition and the CEL remained on. A friend who had been driving behind me all the way said there had been no smoke or other tell tale signs from the exhaust. I turned round and headed home, and the problem gradually subsided to the extent that by the time I was back on the driveway the car was running as normal, but the CEL remained on. The car is a '99 2.5 manual with 86k. I've only owned it for about 3,500 miles, and although the car has been serviced at independents I'm not sure how well it has been maintained (last OPC stamp was at 48k). I'm not really sure where to start with this - Can anyone help me? Cheers, Greg
  11. Ok thanks all. I'll have to do some investigating next free weekend but it doesn't sound too serious....
  12. Hi, My front brake discs were pretty much worn out, although the pads were not completely worn and the brake wear indicator on the dash was not showing. So, at the weekend I replaced the discs as well as the front brake pads, wear sensors and fluid. Since then the brake pad wear indicator light on the dash has been permanently on, although clearly the pads are brand new (and the ones on the back are approx 50% worn so should not trigger any warning). Is it necessary to perform some sort of reset on the wear indicator when replacing the pads, or is this as straightforward as a dodgy connection on one of the new wear sensors? Thanks Greg
  13. Hi, The climate control on my 1999 986 has never worked in the 6 months I've owned it (the perils of buying a car when it's 3C outside I suppose). Prompted by another post I had a look around in the bumper air intakes and found (see attached photo) that the driver's side (on my RHD car) condenser is damaged at the lower outside corner and looks as though it's been leaking, presumably through corrosion caused by leaves collecting there over the years. Obviously I'm looking to sort this in the most cost effective way possible, so can anyone tell me if replacing the condenser is a straightforward DIY job? Looking at the schematic in the parts catalogue, it just seems to attach to the refrigerant circuit with a couple of screws with o-rings to seal. I've no idea how long this problem has existed and understand that if the leak has been there for a while, the desiccator might need replacing as well. Is this true and if so is this also possible to DIY? Although I can see it on the schematic, I have no idea where the unit actually is - is it near the battery compartment? If I can get all this done myself then I guess all that would be required would be to get an AC specialist to re-gas the system? Thanks Greg
  14. Once rotated 90 degrees, the switch (attached to the socket and wires) should come clean out of the metal bracket in front of the pedals. Once you have it out, you should be able to separate the switch from the socket with wires - there are 2 tabs either side of the socket (see photo - these are on the left and right of the socket as you see it). To clean the inside of the switch, you just need to use a small screwdriver to pry apart the brown and black plastic parts of the switch (or red and black if it's the clutch switch). Be careful as the switch contains a loose spring which is liable to fall out at this point. Greg
  15. Hi, You might want to check that your tyres have been fitted the correct way round - Eagle F1s are available as both directional and asymmetric versions - both of which need to be fitted correctly to ensure they perform properly. Check the sidewall of the tyres for markings indicating either the direction of rotation or the which is the inside/outside edge. This should tell you if they're fitted correctly. Greg
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