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I've got a strange oil leak on my '05 CTT. The attached picture is from the drivers side wheel well. I can't figure out where the oil is coming from, but as you can see oil is somehow getting unto the air inlet tube and running down the frame rail and evantually dripping on the floor just in front of the drivers side wheel. I can't see any other signs of where the oil could be coming from. It's almost like there is a small pin hole in an oil line somewhere. Any advice is much appreciated. Thanks Keith
kas996 replied to kas996's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)MMMbeer, Thanks for the feedback. I was reading thru some old Panorama's to get up to speed on the these machines and was reading an article about the differences between the turbo and the turbo S. They list the delta is boost pressure to be .3 bar, for a max of 1.9 bar, which thru me off a bit, I just wanted to make sure all is well. Thanks Keith
kas996 posted a topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)I just picked up an '05 CTT and love it. I'm trying to get up to speed on these things. I've only had it for two weeks, but so far I've changed the engine oil & filter, spark plugs & coils (all of my coils had cracks btw), air filters and particulate filters. I was surprised to see that my coils were all cracked as it ran very smooth ( and still does). My question is: The boost gauge indicates up to .8 bar, but I'm only seeing .5 bar at WOT. Seems like I might have some investigating to do to find a leak in the system, but I'd like some confirmation before I start trying to find the needle in the haystack. Thanks Keth
good job... where did you get the kit, and $?, if you don't mind. I purchased the kit off of ebay for $30, which I think is well worth it. If you can find a version with a graphic of the spoiler on it, I'd probably go that route if it doesn't cost much more.
I finally had a chance to take a pic of my final set up. I had two empty slots beneath the traction control switch, so I removed one of the blanks and installed the LED there. I've seen pics that actually have an image of the spoiler to the left of the LED, unfortunately, mine only has an LED color = red when the spoiler is extended.
I finally had a chance to take the car back over to my local wrench. He recoded the spoiler and now the spoiler extends at 75 mph and lowers and 37 mph, so problem solved.
kas996, Can you provide details of the spoiler LED indicator installation? Sounds intriguing.... (BTW, i'm assuming the LED is 'off' when the spoiler is not deployed?) To install this indicator light is really pretty simple if your familiar with removing the instrument cluster and the radio/climate control surround. The kit comes with the LED assy which replaced an unused dummy switch and 5 wires that you connect to various locations on the 3 connectors for the cluster. Feeding the wiring is easy. To answer your question, yes, when the spoiler is not deployed, the led is off. Back to my problem: My cluster was programmed with a Porsche PST2 tester. The PST2 was used to extract the parameters from my old cluster and then download them into the new one. Everything in the cluster seems right, speeds are in mph, exterior temps are in F, distance in miles... but it almost seems as if the spoiler is reacting to KM/Hr and not miles/Hr. I'm going to have the Indy hook it up and see if we can find something wrong in a setting or something. Stay tuned!
Over the Christmas Break I installed an LED that tells me that status of the postions of the spoiler. The LED flashes when the spoiler is in motion (opening or closing) and stays on solid when the spoiler is extended. My question is: My spoiler is extending at 50 mph and lowers at 25mph (I verified this by having someone following me). My understanding is that is shouldn't extend until 72mph is reached and lower at 37 mph. Is there a way that I can change this on my car? I'm not sure why my speeds are different, but I did install a new cluster and had it programmed by a local Indy). I'm just wondering if this setting can be changed? Thanks Keith
I just wanted to say "Thank You" for all who post their experiences with these cars. Thru your experiences I've been able to bring one back from near death. I purchased mine with a bad motor back in late October knowing very little about these water cooled rear engine cars. Over the winter and springs month's I've gone completely thru the car (see my blog - '99 C2 Cabriolet resto). This past weekend I took her on about a 250 mile run..ran flawlessly. I'm very impressed with how these car cruise at speed. I'm going to have a very difficult decision to make regarding selling this one or my '79 930 (that I've owned for the past 10 years). When I drive the two back to back, it make me realize how refined the newer cars have become. I actually think I may sell them both and get a newer Turbo or a GT3 (best of both worlds perhaps), who knows. This Saturday I'll be driving her from Southern Indiana to Eastern Pennsylvania for a little vacation back home. Gratuitous pic:
After I thought about wrapping the cable around the barrel, I figured that's not a good idea. I'll try twisting it like you suggest. One question that I'd still like to know is if the throttle body should be completely closed at closed throttle, or partially open.
The pedal is clear.. I think that I understand what your saying...basically wrap the cable around the barrel lug to shorten the cable length. I guess I'd question why there is no "real" adjustment on the cable... I was looking at some pictures of the old engine and I can see that the throttle valve is opened partially at Idle..Is this correct? Is there a % on the TPS that the valve should be at when in the idle state?
Anybody? I'm really at a loss here. I would have thought this would be pretty straight forward but nothing seems to help. As things stand right now the throttle body is completely closed when the throttle isn't depressed and is not reaching WOT when it's depressed. I can see how I can adjust the cable to work properly...Please help! From what I've been able to gather on this site thus far, the black piece should be twisted to adjust the cable, but that doesn't seem to do anything...I've tried the other end at the throttle and the junction in the middle.. no luck.
My reader shows the TPS to be at 53% when the pedal is to the floor. I also visually confirmed that the throttle body is not opening up all the way either. I've searched on this forum and found a post that refers to disconnecting the cable at the throttle body, pushing it cable out of the bracket and twisting the black part until you are able to reach WOT. What I'm struggling with is does the nut need to be held when doing this? I'm really having a hard time getting this figured out (last piece to completing my project). Thanks :renntech:
The cluster will be brand new ( :angry: ), so I'll share this info with the shop and see if they are convinced. Thanks for the input from both of you.
I've done several searches on this topic and can't find the exact answer that I'm looking for. When I purchased my '99 C2 Cabriolet, the odometer LCD was washed out, the speedometer was bouncing all over the place, etc (several issues). (I bought this car at an auction with a bad motor - IMS failure). The car's all done now, but the cluster. I've got a new cluster on order (tried playing around with the stock one and one that I bought off of ebay). I'm friendly with a local Indy and he has the ability to reprogram the cluster but say's that I need to get the access codes from the dealer - I've never heard that mentioned before. I talked to Sunset and they had never heard of that - anyone else have any input to add here? Thanks in advance for your support. Also, after reading thru some posts on here I see a hack mentioned that allows from more data to be displayed, can anyone provide more details here? Thanks Keith