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I saw them at Rennsport V, the sport exhaust tailpipes are large and somewhat cool. I don't need the turbos, happy with naturally aspirated motors. I am sure they must be fun to drive and will try at the Atlanta Experience Center one of these days.

Thanks. I have the engine grill from sunset. Not going for the front grills. This guy talks about removing the grill... I guess its pretty easy.. maybe over thinking this... http://rennlist.com/forums/991/812970-991-rear-grill-removal.html

Has anyone done (DIY) the upgrade from the standard grill to the old school 911 50 look? I found this online but it's only part 1 of 2 http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/991/348846-diy-991-engine-lid-vent-grill-removal.html

Ok this post is NOT really about comparing the roads, it's more about my less then stellar experience with my recent purchase. I picked up the car in Stuttgart a beautiful 991 S silverGT, drove it around Europe and then waited for ever for it to get to the US. Immediately after getting it in the US I declared the roads in the US as ****. Nothing comparable to the great roads in Germany, Switzerland, Italy (yeah right!) and Austria. Long story short, Porsche Stevens Creek forgot to remove the suspension restraint on my car upon receiving it the US, the handed it over to me, I was extremely excited to drive it... However it turn out the roads are great in California (if you have a full suspension setup). This I found out once my shop RMG in Sunnyvale took a look at my car. It is just sad to have such an experience. The dealer is taking responsibility and has the car at the moment, my question/rant is : should I be worried about the impact on the car (drove it around 3k miles) I could feel any fly on the road and it felt like I was going over a wall, it was not until I drove my 986 and despite the sport suspension on it, it feel glorious compared to my brand new 991, yes different cars but imagine driving with no travel on the front suspension... Anyway I got a 912E and the thing is 40 years old and it felt better on the roads and bumps. I hope you guys/gals can give me some advise on this matter. After some conversations with my mechanic, I started to understand the safety concern around this matter. I had friends, family and my son with me, sometimes driving like a Porsche should be driven, thank god nothing happened. Anyway. Any comment is welcome.

I purchased a red 912E recently and the previous owner had put on 195/60 on R14, the car looks a bit silly with those little tires. However I am debating wether to go to the original 185/70 R14 but I want to make sure the look is good, or else I might bite the bullet and go for 16's. If I end up doing that I will ask for suggestions on tire size...but that will be another post later on. If you have a 912E can you share side views and specs in the wheels & tires as well as impact on the speedometer?

thanks Loren, Mike and others for the notes, recommendations. I will keep you posted.

Gentlemen and ladies, Dont change your oil, while you discuss with your wife a purchase of a new house... numbers get in the way... 37lb-ft sounds like 39lb-ft and shortly thereafter you think of why specialist are paid to do certain things, such as change the oil on your car. But putting aside the discussion of wether a Porsche owner should do or not simple things as oil changes, I come to you with a request for confirmation. (in case it was not clear I stripped the oil drain... yes 39 is not 37) I found 996 107 031 55 on ebay for $175 , do you all believe that is all I need? Can I re-use the bolts holding the plate? What torque should I use to tighten the bolts on the sump plate? Appreciate your feedback and I welcome the teasing on my failure to do a simple oil change correctly...

I recall Toolpants solved my issue explaining that my horn honks because a "spring?" losses its tension. but cannot for the love of my car, find toolpants response in my archive... So I went to Stevens Creek Porsche and asked for the spring for the airbag, the clerk told me there is no spring behind the airbag... can anyone let me know what I need to fix on a very sensitive horn?

my 986 is at 155k still running smoothly... giving her some rest now that I got a hand down (Civic) from my wife (she got an X5)

Thanks Loren!. Where is the EVAP canister valve located? and the Pressure sensor? Do you have a PN for those?

Hello Loren and all of you out there. I have a CEL and codes are: P0441,P1124,P1124 986 MY97 126k MAF replaced about 1.5 years ago. Any idea what P0441 is and is that related to the other 2 codes P1124/26? Thanks!

I know a mechanic that says that when its not your gas pump, its the oil pump or your water pump... I just hope mine is the water one. 986 2.5L MY97 125k Good evening to all. I have heavy leaking of water/coolant. The water would deplete in a ride of less then 10 miles. Car is stopped. I dont see any mix of oil with what is leaked. The POND :o is located between the rear wheel and the front wheel, on the right side of the car, closer to the middle of the car. I lifted the car and removed the panel underneath the car and I found that the liquid is spilling from a device with PN 996.106.013.54. I believe it is the Water Pump. I need your :help: to find that out. If it is a Water pump is there a DIY for this? Please share your experience...

search for and read this: Coolant Overflow Reservior Crack I will be doing this soon.. I may do a video of it... or stills.

Thanks Henry and TP. I will bring my 4 leg levers (OBC) . Other then that, I would like to see if we could do a quick 3.4 conversion on my 2.5L :-P promise not to spill any oil ;-)

Done hunting... Dumbo is out of my car. The instructions on this topic (see prior pages) need a bit more details. 1. Need to be careful with the oil dip stick hose, I broke mine. Remove the dip stick prior to removeing the hose. 2. When the instructions say to rotate the trottle body 45 degrees this should be done on the same axis as the rear axle. (in ordinary words push the trottle body towards the front part of the car) 3. You will have trouble releasing the lower level screw of the starter, you need a flex type bit to be able to rotate in such tight spot. Overall, you will need 2 hours doing it calmly. I recommend you remove the bracket that holds the air duct. One more thing. the part I ordered came a bit longer then the starter I had on my car. The fit was fine, the sound of the new starter is a bit sluggish, perhaps is the new sound that throws me off, but, no more dumbo. I was planning on taking pictures of the process, no time. I am willing to help anyone in the bay area on this job as I now have it very well understood. Take care and happy hunting!

Ok after procrastinating for a long time I have decided to go hunting for the elephant. I ordered a re manufactured starter for 154 usd. I will be doing the repair myself and I will advise if Dumbo is out of my car. Stay tuned.

is D-5 the same for a MY97 986?

I run 18's on my MY97. I dont race it on track, I do ride it a bit hard near the mountain roads, but not too hard. The car seems fine. It looks great (Carrera 5 spoke) light wheel (atleast in my mind). Check my garage for pics. I also had read that there was a reason not to put 18's but I figured that if I did not change the overall volume of the 17 with the 18's it would be fine, I also looked for what I thought were the lightest wheels. I say put 18's, its much nicer and car gets a slight mean look.

Here is a twist to this drama, and excuse me if I have not fixed this and closed this case, but I think that having a 113k 2.5L that only has this issue (knock knock on wood)and the findings will be for the better of this community. the twist: Can this relate at all to the clutch? Reasoning, when I leave the car parked for more then 7 days I get the sound when I turn the motor on, but also the first times I let go of the clutch to move forward the sound is present at a lower volume level for the first mile or two that I have to shift to get into the freeway. :drive:

Do I need different tools for the oil change on a 987? I am thinking of buying one but want to make sure my equipment is compatible. ;-)

Thanks Loren! I guess I will have to go for the whole thing($150+?) not the $30 dollar one... do you have a DIY on that?

Last few days I have been experiencing the following: I turn the car on and the ignition switch will open (I can see my airbag light warning, and my stereo works) but the car wont start.. If I jiggle the key a bit,and try to start it again it lights up all the possible lights on the dash and the car starts normally... This happens almost everytime I start the car now...it was seldom and now is 90% chance of happening. When driving (last time 90 mph) the car shut down the motor. My steering does not get locked so I think it is not the switch but something else... Any ideas? I am relating this to the "elephant" noise I hear when I start my car (starter motor seems to be going bad...). Hope you can help. For those who are doubting how far your car will go... Do note my baby has 100k miles, it is a 1997 986 2.5L and motor runs perfectly!

Good day to all! What is the starter PN? is this a DIY?