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  1. I currently have a 2002 Porsche Boxster S with 86k miles on it. I drive it spirited and do some autocross. I noticed that my right strut started to make some noise and the ride does not seem as firm as it once was. I am thinking about upgrading my suspension with the ROW M030 kit. I am interested in adding a bit more handling while maintaining everyday comfort and drivability. I have read a bunch of articles in regards to all the other parts you should replace when you do the ROW M030 swap. Upon pricing all the parts they are almost 3k!! Here are the parts and pricing I have so far: 202 99734301800 2 - Front Strut Mounts 175.5 98633305906 2 - Rear Strut Mounts 74 99634351505 2 - Strut Bearings (front only) 1795 ROW M030 European Sport Suspension Kit 170 986DLINKF Front Drop Links 170 986DLINKR Rear Drop Links 13 986FRCOMP front compensation plates(size? 3mm or 6.5mm) 13 986RRCOMP rear compensation plates(size? 3mm or 6.5mm) 38 99634350500 Front Shock Bellows 38 98633350501 Rear Shock Bellows 35 99634330102 Front Bump Stops 50 98633330101 Rear Bump Stops Can you experts please help me determine if I am missing anything else or are there some parts that I just dont need..... Also any tutorials/advice that anyone can give me would be great. THANK YOU!
  2. I have an 03 Boxster with 95k on the clock. When you first start driving the car, everything is tight and quiet. After about 25 - 30 miles, the front start to knock lightly and rumble. Most noticeable between 0 and 30mph in queuing traffic. You can feel the knocks on the steering wheel and brake pedal. The further you go the worse it gets. The sound is like a bolt being jarred in a plastic bottle. Up to now it has had new bake disks and pads. Track rod ends and wishbones replaced and something That looks like coffin struts changed. Wheels and tyres have been checked. When the knocking started, the brake warning light came on. The front sensors have been changed so the warning lights don't come on when the knocking starts. I am not mechanically minded but In my mind its a brake problem as the issue only shows up after driving for about 30 miles and things are starting to warm up. The garage cannot identify the issue and have run out of ideas. Can anyone suggest or identify the problem as I have been replacing bits without success
  3. Hi Guys, So for my car , 996 C2 , 2003 with 70 TMiles and M030 suspension . Im currently in process of purchasing several parts for suspension refresh , so to say . Whole process came to a corner , left or right , from perspective of refreshing it since rear shock absorbers , i have planned to purchase are not available , anywhere . At least not for reasonable/decent price Plan is to refresh my stock M030 shocks , front and rear , where Bilstein B4 is standard which came with car . Now , i have received front shocks but rear ones are not available and supplier does not know when they will be available . I could not find them online , also , not a single supplier have them on stock, so only option , order them , pay them and wait for Bilstein to make them and deliver .. Development of situation is is that my supplier have offered me Bilstein B8 as option , more or less same price as B4 . Now, guys ,.. As part of refreshment i have bought several additional parts, which are part of suspension and fit B4 setup, for all 4 corners.. supporting mount hexagon nut M 10 compensating plate ring bellows additional spring - bump stop So to say rubbers and plastics .. Springs i plan to keep , so no new springs planned .. Questions Will all those part be usable with B8 shocks , so plug and play . What will be height difference , is B8 height adjustable or height is same as M030 WIll B8 shocks be delivered with installation manual I have read recent article , it seams, came in right moment for me 🙂 So positive opinion on Bilstein B8 , which is ok , but im not worried about B8 on German Autobahn , my worry is as i wrote , will this be plug and play considering replacement of current ROW M030 or something needs to be bought specifically beside refreshment parts i have already bought . Have some experience with wrenching around , front shock mount , Wheel bearing , basic service , sparks, mufflers , ignition Switch , etc .. But few additional thingies and advises as additional knowledge is always welcomed . Thank you very much guys .. Zoran
  4. Pulling the front end on the GT3 to get at a dead horn... found the dust boot on the front strut torn. Has anyone replaced one of these? I had a competition suspension set up from Jae Lee at Mirage in San Diego and don't want to mess it up, but need to replace the boot. Can I just remove the mounting at the top and drop the suspension and replace the boot from the top? ANy help on this is greatly appreciated!
  5. I recently did a suspension overhaul when I replaced my inner CV joints out of necessity. Problem I am having is they cannot align it properly. Because of the lowered suspension and change in geometry the rear toe in is more than it should be. I have ordered a pair of rear control arms from TRS to allow for adjusting toe, hopefully. So now I am looking to replace the Meghan racing tie rods with something that will allow for greater adjustment for proper alignment of the front end. Does anyone have an experience/insight into this type of setup for the street? Can anyone recommend outer tie rods? Will stock factory ones work? List of what was replaced: All wheel bearings with *** units repacked with Hi Temp synthetic grease All 4 struts/shocks with Bilstein B8's along with upper bearings/caps, bump stops, dust boots All 4 springs with H&R 29779 Lowering springs (Blue) All 4 lower coffin bars/ball joints with Meyle units 2 rear track arms with units from Vertex auto. 2 rear control arm/ball joint Meyle units. 2 front track arms not sure if Meyle or vertex auto. 2 Inner tie rods 2 outer tie rods with Meghan racing units, adjustable blue color 4 Drop links with Tarrett adjustable units Eibach 26mm front swaybar along with bushings factory 19.6 rear swaybar along with bushings
  6. Folks, I started noticing this intermittent creak/groan on the driver's side front suspension, every time I egress the car, after a spirited drive. I have had some creaking due to the lubrication loss in the ball joint area from the rear and have used the hole-in-the-rubber-boot to inject grease to keep the noise from recurring. I did the same for the front, just to be sure. This noise puzzles me. Based on my research, it may be the front strut mount bearing but didn't want to go about replacing parts without your opinions. It doesn't occur when the steering wheel is moved from corner to corner though or feel different during a drive. Shows up only when there is downward pressure on the foot area in the driver side, during egress or when pressure is applied on the car side fender over/near the strut area. Here is a video of the latter, for audio on two creak/groans between the spring movement. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkRMza6B3ms Appreciate your insights on what this can be... My car is clocking nearly 173K ...so wondering if this can be a simple DIY or figure out the need to have a complete strut bearing and/or strut replacement. Thank you, V
  7. hey guys , past couple months my cayenne s 04 air suspension warning light has been on, after a minute of driving. when i try lowing or raising the vehicle, the front end works fine but the rear suspension stay stationery in raise mode. even when using the diagnostic to force the rear to lower nothing happens .fault codes in the level control system was for rear suspension holding valve . so i went ahead and replaced both rear holding valve and recalibrate the suspension. it worked fine for two months .now the warning light is back the rear suspension is stuck in high and not lowing. new fault codes p1780 , 1400 im unsure what to do. do i replace the valve again or is there some else wrong what do you guys think?
  8. 2000 986 Tiptronic, nearly 99k miles. I am getting an annoying popping/cracking sound coming from the left rear. While driving it sounds like it is high in the suspension, possibly related to the shock absorber, shock absorber mount, or spring. I only hear the noise at low speeds - going over speed bumps or backing out of my driveway in the morning. I know it is difficult to pinpoint what the issue could be by just my description, so I am hoping that someone else has heard this noise and it is obvious to someone who has experienced it before. It could be as simple as a bad shock/strut, but I've never had one go out so I don't know what it sounds/feels like. The car seems to respond correctly to the push test (push down and it reflexes back to height). I also checked the nut at the top of the tower which I saw on several posts could be loose, but it was completely tight. Sway bar, bushings, mounts, all appear to be good. I took several videos hoping that it might help identify where this is coming from. I can replicate the sound by jacking up the rear end and then lowering. You can actually hear popping on the way up too, but it is very noticeable on the way down. Please let me know what you think could be the culprit! Lowering the back end: http://vid779.photobucket.com/albums/yy73/crwarren11/Porsche/IMG_4889x.mp4 Lowering the back end, view2: http://vid779.photobucket.com/albums/yy73/crwarren11/Porsche/IMG_4895x.mp4 Jacking up the back end and lowering (notice clicks/pops on the way up): http://vid779.photobucket.com/albums/yy73/crwarren11/Porsche/IMG_4894x.mp4 From inside the car, going over a speed bump (sounds more like a squeaking/cracking at 4 seconds): http://vid779.photobucket.com/albums/yy73/crwarren11/Porsche/9BCBAE06-7C41-4BB3-A592-EAD3997C58F4.mp4
  9. Ok this post is NOT really about comparing the roads, it's more about my less then stellar experience with my recent purchase. I picked up the car in Stuttgart a beautiful 991 S silverGT, drove it around Europe and then waited for ever for it to get to the US. Immediately after getting it in the US I declared the roads in the US as ****. Nothing comparable to the great roads in Germany, Switzerland, Italy (yeah right!) and Austria. Long story short, Porsche Stevens Creek forgot to remove the suspension restraint on my car upon receiving it the US, the handed it over to me, I was extremely excited to drive it... However it turn out the roads are great in California (if you have a full suspension setup). This I found out once my shop RMG in Sunnyvale took a look at my car. It is just sad to have such an experience. The dealer is taking responsibility and has the car at the moment, my question/rant is : should I be worried about the impact on the car (drove it around 3k miles) I could feel any fly on the road and it felt like I was going over a wall, it was not until I drove my 986 and despite the sport suspension on it, it feel glorious compared to my brand new 991, yes different cars but imagine driving with no travel on the front suspension... Anyway I got a 912E and the thing is 40 years old and it felt better on the roads and bumps. I hope you guys/gals can give me some advise on this matter. After some conversations with my mechanic, I started to understand the safety concern around this matter. I had friends, family and my son with me, sometimes driving like a Porsche should be driven, thank god nothing happened. Anyway. Any comment is welcome.
  10. Just figured i would share. Christmas Day heading down to see the parents i had a loud BANG come from the front left. sounded like i had a rock kick up under the car or something. Completely flat, fresh pavement, so no bumps of any kind around. Anyways i didn't see anything come out the back of the car and no warning lights so i figured i'd keep driving. Got to my parents, and as i'm pulling in i get a suspension warning. Weird, still same ride height so enjoyed the day with my family. Coming home, the car was at the loading height in the front. definitely sitting on the bump stops. Got a replacement from Germany through Miessler for 289 with the new o rings. A STEAL considering sunset wanted 1200. replacement is pretty easy. Something to keep in mind. take a look at the aluminum cover that split on me. Mine had cracks for a long time, but never really though anything of it. Enjoy!
  11. Has anyone had any problems with the sport exhaust failing (without and indication lights)? Does tracking damage this temporarily? Brief history for my car for perspective: bought my 2007 C4S with sport exhaust and sport/chrono package as a CPO 2 years ago. The sport exhaust didn't work when I bought it so dealer tried to fix it but didn't work still so they fixed it again. Since then, it worked the vast majority of the time except after my first two track experiences (which by the way were incredible in this car!). I noticed that by the end of each track day I could not hear the sport exhaust anymore and was uncertain whether the sport button worked at all. Each time it fixed itself despite a trip to the dealer several months ago to investigate before CPO ran out but they found nothing wrong. Should I be worried? Is it normal to temporarily go out after tracking? It's already been fixed twice by the dealer pre-tracking...
  12. Hi all, Does anyone have the torque settings for the suspension bits on the 997.2? Bits to carrier, bits to body, bits to cross member, bits to bits.. including the sway/stabilizer bars? I'm replacing stabilizer, control arms, tie rods, springs, toe arms etc and need to know how much muscle to put on them. Thanks!
  13. See broken part in this Front Left wheel well pic of my 04 996... assume it is a suspension stroke sensor, but what does it do, and more importantly, what is the consequence of driving it un-repaired? I wonder how the ECU uses the input if there is no electronic suspension on my car... hmmm. The part it mounts to is plastic so it must have struck road debris I am guessing... if anyone knows the Part number so I can order a replacement many thanks in advance! Thx!
  14. I have a 99 Carrera Cab and want to upgrade to the ROW M030 (sport) suspension. Anyone know dealers who will handle the transaction, which involves ordering the package of components from Germany? Thanx
  15. With my Boxster S, it was the lateral arms... the ones that goes front to back. In the 197K miles of ownership, I think I replaced at least all of them twice and a few three times. My 2009 C2S has a clunking/rattle in the right rear. I had it up on jacks and could not find it. I checked the three bolts on the top of the struts, I put a tire iron in there and twisted and wedged and no joint/bushing moved more than the others. I am very sure it is a control arm. So, unless someone in Philly has some chassis ears they can lend me for a day, I want to just replace the most common offender. 997 331 043 01 So, which rear control arm goes first? Anyone know the torque values for this part? Peace Bruce in Philly
  16. Hi everyone, i have replaced the front suspension top mounts on my 2000my C4 with monoballs as the factory rubber bushes were split. I cant stand the noise and harshness on the road and want to change back to the rubber bushes. The car has standard suspension which i thought was the same setup as the C4S and turbo (with different damping / springs). So the question is why cant i fit the sports suspension top mounts which are cheaper? (IX73 / IX74) The have a different part number but are they really any different? Thanks in advance.
  17. Hello, took my 2005 Cayenne to the mechanic due to tires not uniform wear. They said I need new control arms and replace the steering bushing. We can't find the part number for just the steering bushing. So I need help locating the part or where can I buy it, I just don't want to buy a new steering rack when just the bushing needs replacement. The SUV only has 63000 miles on it. Thanks for your response.
  18. Didn't find any TT or awd specific posts regarding this, so I was hoping I could get a quick walk through of the front control arm replacement procedure. My car is an '01 996TT. I found this, and the control arm and track arm look very similar in the picture so I am guessing it is closely resembling ours? ( http://kevingosselin.blogspot.com/2009/08/boxster-control-arm-replacment-in-total.html ) But that link doesn't deal with any front half shafts. Do I need to remove the hub assembly to do my front control arms? Should I have new CV boots/clamps standing by? Thanks for any pointers! -Connor
  19. Putting in an order for some front suspension parts today, and I just want to make sure I have the correct sway bar bushings. I believe it is these, but since GT2 is in parenthises I'm not sure if they actually mean it is for a turbo or not. Can anyone tell for sure? http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/more_info.cgi?pn=996-343-792-16-M100&catalog_description=&Front%2520Sway%2520Bar%2520Bushing%252C%2520Stock%2520Rubber%2520%2528%2532%2520per%2520car%252C%2520sold%2520individually%2529%252C%2520%2539%2539%2536%2520GT%2533%2520%2528%2531%2539%2539%2539%252D%2530%2535%2529%252C%2520each%2520 And for my front suspension overhaul, I'm attacking the following: Main control arms Control arm links sway bar bushing Recently did tie rods and sway bar end links. Should I add anything else to the list while I'm in there? Thanks, Connor
  20. Just wondering if anyone has experienced a light dull knocking noise from their front end at low / manouvering type speeds. The car has recently been at the dealers for a different fault... but on the complimentary health check they spotted that the n/s/f shock absorber bump stop is broken, would this cause the noise? They didn't give me a price for this... wondered if its something i can do myself?
  21. I've got a 98 Boxster completely stock. I'm trying to decide if I put in a limited slip differential or upgrade to the M030 suspension first. I'm pretty much looking for improvement in autocross. Any thoughts?
  22. Hey all, New the forum so hello there! Rebuilding a Carrera two and pulling some mangled-a$$ control arms off the front. They are stamped with "996.341.341.05" When I google this number all I get is european eBay listings and some random russian website. Anybody have any idea what this is? Cheap chinese knockoff control arms? I have a 99634105316 to replace it which is clearly a slightly different casting but appears dimensionally similar. I would share a photo but I am in the shop (read- my garage) right now. Cheers! Gabe J
  23. Hi Guys, my 97 box has got around 230,000 miiles on it and the suspension has decided to call it a day. It has the Tech Sport Package and H&R Springs. I'm going to be pulling it all apart and taking a deep look into what i need to replace on all four corners. I already know that the struts need replaced as well some serious clunk issues at the passenger front corner. If anybody has any tips, tricks, pitfalls, recommendations, modest upgrades, etc, they would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Ked
  24. Hi guys just registered, great site and clearly a great resource for owners. I am looking for some advice. I have a 2008 Boxster, owned for 2 years with 34k. Since I bought the car it has had a rattling noise, which seems to have worsened The noise is like a loose rattle coming from the front of the car, both sides. The noise actually sounds like something loose, not an overly loud thump, but a definite rattle, almost like some loose trim (which it isnt). The noise only happens over small bumps, cobbles etc when traveling straight ahead, or turning left and right, ie all the time. Over larger bumps, small pot holes (not that I drive down them) the car is silent and there is not a sound and drives absolutely fine with no ride problems. It is almost like the less load on the car the noisier they are. The car has had new drop links and anti-roll bar bushs fitted, a garage has checked out the car and say they cannot see a thing wrong with it and it passed it's MOT. There is no trim parts loose and everything is secure and tight but yet the noise persists. Does anyone have any ideas as to what it might be. I read somewhere that strut top bearings can go. what kind of noise do they make. thanks
  25. MY 99 C2 sits over 3/4 inch lower in the rear than front when measured from level ground to top of wheel well with consistent tire pressure. Assuming this is the correct way to measure, is this an indication that the rear springs are tired and need replaced? I presume the car should sit level with new springs?. Car appears to be aligned properly although I have not had it aligned in the 2 years I've owned the vehicle.
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