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Profile Fields

  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2002 Porsche Turbo
  • Future cars
    997 Turbo
  • Former cars
    04 M3 - 98 M3

raglem03's Achievements


Member (1/1)



  1. Beware: Electric problems galore. #1 So when I first received my car in February (2002 Porsche Turbo) I noticed that the key fob worked okay but sometimes I would have to get closer, and sometimes it just wouldn't want to work so I used my key manually into the door to unlock or lock. I coincidentally had a problem with the ignition switch that was a little sticky and would sometimes not let the headlights, windshield washers, etc work. So I went to Porsche and purchased a brand new ignition switch mechanism. Everything began to work perfectly except for the keyless entry... the keyless worked exactly as before, off and on. I replaced the battery and it seemed to work "better" until about a week went by and once again the same would happen except now it was more frequent for it not to work. I honestly just got very busy and didn't pay any attention to it and began getting used to the old school manual entry. I replaced the battery again, used the polar reset you guys recommended and once again it worked on/off eventually trailing to not working again. Recently its very annoying to unlock the car manually when I leave my office with things in my hands and having to stick the key in the ignition quickly before the alarm activates, ESPECIALLY late night or early morning when occasionally I don't do it fast enough and I wake everyone up at home. One day I get home early from work I go home and relax. When going back out to the car to pick up some groceries I realize my door lights inside are on. Weird. I check both doors, trunk, hood... all closed properly. I get in the car, close the door, turn it on and the door lights stay on but no open door warning comes on. Get to the supermarket and I manually lock the car again... SAME SH!T still on. I get back home and I disconnect the door lights for the meantime cuz I don't want the battery to drain. I originally thought my fob was a problem but now I'm starting to think that there is a problem with the door latch... causing both of these stupid problems. Is it possible the whole latch mechanism and sensor is shot and needs to be replaced? Anyone have such an experience? I'd love to avoid the dealer, I am very handy. Every time I manually lock the car it has always done the alarm chirp once. Think it could be something else? =========== #2 Driving one day I realized my signal lever would not spring back into place. I have to click it back after turning or it just stays on. Seems fairly simple, just replace the full steering switch assembly... I was told its about $280. But I looked deeper into the actual unit and I think I only need the little round black plastic donut with the connectors correct? It looks to me that the spring back switch is there. Any help would be great. =========== #3 My passenger door hasn't been closing properly. I thought there was a problem with the latch but it works just fine. Then I thought maybe the hinge was a tad off and therefore the door was misaligned. That is not the problem at all. I took a good look at how the window goes all the way to the top. When you close the door the window does not do the up/down seal alignment like the driver's door. I thought it was weird. I put the window back down and then again up but not to the maximum the switch would let me, just a bit open. As I did that I noticed when I closed it the up/down seal alignment would activate again and the door closed perfect. I checked the little rubber covering towards the sideview mirror and it had been pierced by the window. So technically the window goes up past its original point. Is there a sensor, bushing, or switch that stops the glass at a perfect point? This is retarded, I know I have to take the leather card off in order to investigate but I'd like some info before getting there. .................................................... I'd appreciate any help guys.
  2. Most of the aftermarket wheels are made with an extra aggressive offset different then stock so the wheels do not look tucked at all. They are made to look flush with the fender yet still work with lowering modifications. I find it very odd that these wheels were made a little "off". My guess is that you need a crazy alignment with some camber adjustment, very aggressive. Interested in selling those wheels?
  3. u should have a passcode card i ur car with ur manual or such or ur gonna have to call Porsche with ur VIN# or possibly pull out the NAV unit and get the serial code from the back... they will give u the code right away
  4. where'd u pick up the gauges from? if u don't feel VERY comfortable with the install just don't do it, too many potential problems
  5. u could make some small spacers, i've seen people do it before but honestly u should fix the problem properly. if u wanted to raise it get different springs, or the more expensive upgrade which would be to get full adjustable coilovers. I don't think ur problem is ur wheels hitting and bouncing or else u would have mentioned that u hear some kind of scraping. u should go an alignment shop and get every single spec printed out on the car, make sure u are corner balanced. if everything checks out properly the same shop will be able to tell u what exact problem is causing this, obviously its not normal.
  6. Are those replica wheels or OEM 997TT wheels? They look like OEMs. I believe you only need a 5mm spacer in the rear to make them work... I would use more like 15mm just to make the wheel look more flush to the fender though
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