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JuncoJones
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Everything posted by JuncoJones
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Washing the Engine of a Boxster
JuncoJones replied to Pierre's Porsche's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
I’ve been pressure-washing my Boxster S for +8 years, these are some of my thoughts: - I pressure-wash my car’s engines once per month. This proactive approach has saved me over the years many un-scheduled maintenance repairs due to alert signs (that could have been otherwise left unnoticed) on the engine - I use a medium-duty 1900 PSI electric pressure washer, and Very important: the actual angle of the pressure washer nozzles: 10-degree (yellow) for pretty-much everything OR 0-degree (red) for undercarriage, calipers, wheels, engine and exhaust (i.e. all underneath but NOT above), keeping the nozzle at 1 ~ 2 feet of distance - Be very gentle pointing water jets to the front radiators, you will likely bend the heat-exchanging cells - If you disconnect anything on the engine with your pressure washer, that was a problem likely waiting to happen - Great for cleaning debris in the front radiator’s air intakes, all drain holes, etc. - For cleaning / degreasing the engine, I use purple industrial cleaner diluted 1 to 5, spray the entire engine, give it a few minutes and rinse it out with the 10-degree yellow nozzle - Before turning ON the car, I thoroughly dry it with my loyal shop-vac leaf blower, particularly on all electric connectors -
Well, I’ve performed a series of analysis on the ‘highly-procedural’ work that needs to happen to [successfully] clean the two SAI bypass channels on my ’03 Boxster S: I’ve identified a potential show-stopper, which is braking an exhaust bolt (or more than one, for that purpose), which will pretty much derail the entire project… To help address this issue, I’ve created a phase-zero, and actually remove each and every intake bolts (one at the time) to add anti-seize to its thread with the exhaust @ running-temperature, so when you’re ready to perform the entire cleaning operation, your chances of success will be certainly higher. And if you happen to break a bolt, the car will be still operational by having all the remaining ones. This is will be the right time to add a BIG new task, which is getting those broken bolt(s) properly fixed!! Also, as a follow-up to a suggestion by Ahsai to report my findings back to the group, I’ll write a DIY tutorial about my own experience in doing this type of repair...
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Consider it done, Ahsai.
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My car has 180k miles, and honestly, runs like new. I have small issues here and there, just like most cars in the world do. And in this case, with your great help, I believe I have what I need in order to get it sorted out!
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The way I solved ALL leaking problems in my car was by getting comfortable opening the engine compartment (service mode) and thoroughly inspecting it every couple of months. After checking for leaks, I degrease / pressure wash it (1700 PSI, 10 degree nozzle) to finally dry it with a shop-vac leaf blower... It honestly looks like new. Also jack-standing the car and looking underneath helps, to have a complete picture of where leaks / potential issues could be coming from. This proactive approach drastically reduced unscheduled maintenance calls and car issues through time.
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you were right on the spot, Ahsai! The behaviour is still the same, it has to be a physical air blockage in bank-2, either in: the air tube itself (connecting the shut-off valve to the block) the air passage inside the block (connecting the air tube to the exhaust) Well, I guess I'm the lucky individual that has to remove both intake mainfolds AGAIN... practice is certainly the path to perfection :) Are you aware if there is any diagram of the air passages in the block?
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This morning after doing the cold-start readings I went ahead and swapped the O2 sensors between both banks. These are the results at running-temperature, which certainly looks much better... Maybe it just required some TLC, the O2 sensors was one of the only parts of the car I've never touched before. Btw, it's a breeze to swap those in a Boxster... And by the looks of it, the O2 sensor (now) in bank-1 is getting old, as per its constant fluctuations. What I don't understand is why the resistance keeps going up and down on both banks. And tomorrow I'll do another cold-start reading and will post the results. Thx again, Ahsai.
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OK, here is the cold-start information. Clearly bank-2 is not behaving the same way as bank-1:
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Well, I couldn’t wait until tomorrow morning… so I did some tests on the O2 sensors tonight :) Looking at the graph above, after the initial 90 second warming up period, pre-cat voltage should be osciIlating as per rich/lean conditions, and post-cat voltage should be steady around 0.7v... None of my post-cat sensors are running steady at 0.7v: bank-1 is most of the time at 0.7v, but drops from time to time (like a pre-cat). Bank-2 is running 'pretty-much' like a pre-cat So my guess is that both cats are NOT working as supposed. But then, why am I NOT getting a CEL about cat issues and I’m getting one about the secondary air pump bank 2?
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Thanks Ahsai. yes, the vacuum reservoir is new, as it had developed a small crack at the bottom. Pretty much all vacuum lines are new as well, and I've used permatex gasket sealant on each connection. That's a very nice (and descriptive) graph, btw. it will certainly help in my troubleshooting. I'll measure all sensors tomorrow morning, with the car cold.
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P0492 that (really) wants to stay... Over the last month I’ve been troubleshooting a [P0492] Secondary-air system bank 2] error, which triggers the CEL of my ’03 Boxster S (DME 7.8). I’ve taken apart the entire vacuum system, replaced any/all components that were faulty/worn out, but the error keeps re-appearing every couple of days. Now, the car runs perfectly well, it’s just I don’t enjoy a CEL light in my dashboard… With Durametric, I can validate: Secondary air pump (also works during the first 90 seconds of a cold start) Secondary air pump solenoid (I can hear it clicking) Can this be a VarioRAM issue? I’m asking because VarioRAM is installed in bank 2 in a Boxster, whereas the secondary air pump is in bank 1 (not sure if the description means physical location in the car or not…) Both are connected to the same vacuum system I cannot trigger the solenoid using Durametric. I believe they call it [intake Pipe Swithover] – can somebody confirm if this is the right activation?? I’ve also confirmed the solenoid works OK on a test bench - but again, doesn't work with Durametric CEL usually comes on if I’m just cruising (very rare) of after a cold start, during the first 5 minutes of driving. What am I missing??
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Here's some unconventional medicine that solved a few erratic issues in my car a few years ago: remove and replace all fuses, making sure the fuse rating is the right one by looking at the fuse manual.
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'03 Boxster S with 180K miles (300Km)....still runs like new! IMO, these are some of the secrets: > Use it EVERY DAY (rainy days / winter included) > Go high in RMP (3-5k average), avoiding passing 6k in older engines > NEVER push the car before reaching running temperature (a real no-go) > Keep it very clean, particularly the undercarriage and engine components, to avoid general degradation by contaminants. > Use good quality silicone lubricants, as all plastics in the car will start to deteriorate, pretty much at the same time!
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Windshield Washer Nozzles strange behavior
JuncoJones replied to JuncoJones's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
You’re certainly right about the plastics. I've replaced the cowl a while back, but the sprayers are still the originals. What intrigues me the most is how could BOTH sprayers go bad at the same time... -
hi everyone, I have an ’03 Boxster S that has recently developed a strange behavior with the Windshield Washer Nozzles (which in this model are non-adjustable) It used to work well for as long as I can remember. Now when I activate the Windshield Washer nozzles, it makes a mess spraying water all over the place, instead of directed jets against the windshield. The water pump works well, actually pushes quite strong. I’ve removed hoses, nozzles, etc. and cleaned everything with an ultrasonic cleaner, but no noticeable difference after. Has anyone experienced a similar issue?? OR I could simply install this system in my garden, it's a perfect 360-deg. sprinker system :)
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Hi everyone (and happy New Year), After countless hours of troubleshooting / components swapping, I decided to change my *BRAND NEW* original Philips D2S Xenon bulbs, and was able to replicate the issue now on the driver’s side. Used my warranty replacement and got a new pair of bulbs; now both headlights are running OK. Thanks everyone for your time troubleshooting this issue! Cheers, Julian
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Thanks for the quick reply, guys. This morning both headlights were OK (my car sleeps indoor). After arriving to work, the passenger’s side was off, which must be -in my opinion- somehow related to cold weather. As suggested by Loren, I wiggled the switch but nothing happened. I will swap the ballasts this afternoon and give it another try tomorrow morning. Julian
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Hi everyone, Sometimes the passenger's side Litronic headlight of my Boxster-S fails to start. I simply turn them off and back on, and everything works fine afterwards; I also have new Xenon bulbs. I've read about the headlight switch failing, but only one headlight is having issues at cold startup. Before I start replacing the expensive stuff, I want to know if someone experienced a similar issue or has any idea about the possible root cause. Thanks in advance! Julian
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Fly-n-Low, The Boxster-S has 2 position sensors on the driver's front and rear wheels (also on passenger's?). These potentiometers have a plastic bracket attached to the wishbone. If the plastic bracket is broken, the potentiometer link will be simply hanging, giving a value of 0 or 100, therefore fooling the Litronic system at startup. I replaced the $6 plastic bracket and my Litronic system now runs like a charm! Sensor link support 996-341-371-03 Julian
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Boxster S Litronics won't raise with highbeam
JuncoJones replied to JuncoJones's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Well, it seems I've found my problem. As per 986wheelz's posting: "The OEM Litronics install has a leveling sensor on the drivers side wheel suspension arm and also on the rear drivers side wheel suspension arm, both of these levelers connect to the litronic computer in your front trunk, the computer is on the passenger side of the trunk, the computer has a harness that connects to both Litronics. You may want to check the plugs on your Litronics to make sure they are properly connected and also check the computer to make sure the plugs are all properly plugged in" http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/31566-litronic-self-levelling-function-failure/ I fixed the sensor and my Litronics lights are working fine now. Thanks 986wheelz! Julian- -
Hello everyone, I've noticed today what my Litronics won't raise with highbeam, and before they were running just fine. Here are some facts: when I pull the headlight switch, the two halogen beams turn on. I remember that the low beams used to raise instead the headlight switch seems to be running fine and i've never had any issues every time I turn my car on, I can see both beams moving down and up for initial alignment, so I assume it's not a mechanical problem I've replaced both Xenon bulbs a while back, but I don't think this can be an issue I've also looked at this post: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/32240-litronics-wont-raise-with-highbeam-after-paint-job/page__hl__litronics but all my connectors seems to be in the right place I have a Boxster S 2003, with factory installed Litronics Thanks in advance for any guidance... Julian-
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Spare key keeps red LED ON all the time
JuncoJones replied to JuncoJones's topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
My spare key is working perfectly well now. Highly appreciated, Loren! -
Spare key keeps red LED ON all the time
JuncoJones posted a topic in 986 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
Hello, I have just 'serviced' the spare key of my 2003 Boxster S. (btw, I've bought the car just a coumple of months ago). the old CR2032 battery had some rust on it, maybe the key got wet. after carefully cleaning some rust inside, and replacing the batery with a new one, i've noticed that the red LED stays ON all the time (dim red, not bright red). Now, the key with the new battery works OK, but I know the battery won't last long with the LED turned on all the time... In the other hand, my other key works as it should: the LED is always off until I press any of the buttons. any ideas or suggestions? thank you guys!
