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Agreed. I checked all the rest of the bolts. Axle nut was a turn and half loose as well. Hopefully I did't damage the wheel bearing, good news is no noise or play. I Will not be going back to this shop. I'm going to try and place the bolt this weekend. Thank you.
I was going to copy the same image... I'm missing "H," which is a stud in transmission case attaches to nut. Based on a quick look, it looks like I'll need to separate the transmission from the engine to get the stud in. Do you think I can live with out it? Or do you stll think I can insert it without gear box removal/separation...? Thanks.
It's a five speed. So I dont need to worry about the very bottom stud/nut combination...the one at the very bottom (slighltly left (american drivers side) of center). Thanks for the quick response!
About a month ago I took my 2000 Boxster to an indy shop for a RMS and clutch change. Last week while changing my oil, I noticed that I only had 6 of the 8 bolts that mount the transmission to the engine. Of course I returned to the shop and demanded they replace the missing bolts and make sure and torque down all the parts that were r/r for the job. When I went to get the car back the second time, I made sure and asked the shop owner, "you're sure I now have all 8 bolts holding my transmission to the engine," and the answer was yes.... Well not true..! I checked again yesterday, and I have 7 of the 8 bolts. Turns out the bottom most connection, which is a M10 stud screwed into the engine held in place by an M10 nut on the transmission side. The stud and nut are still missing...! Can someone confirm if I can replace this stud and nut without pulling the transmission out of the vehicle..? Thanks.
If you have a Boxster that's older than five years old, and you're beginning to run hotter than "normal," but not overheating, the first thing to do is clean out the radiators. A lot of debris gets caught between the AC condensors and the radiators there by blocking effective air flow. This is an easy couple of hours job that costs zero.
I have a 2000 Boxster base with just under 50K miles. The car has only been tracked twice. What is the average life expectancy of struts and other rubber/composite suspension items? I'm not feeling/seeing any issues. Just wondering how long I should expect these parts to last...and with 12 years on the car wondering how long before I need to change out my suspension parts... Thanks.
Final Update: Problem Solved. So after several more coughing spells and a few P1140 CEL Codes thrown, I figured out the failed part and repaired it. The problem was the Evaporative Canister Purge Valve (the valve located under the intake plenum). I determined this by removing the hose connection at the intake, and sucking on the end of the tube with the engine off and cold. It would not hold a vacuum as it should. Replacement of the valve was essentially a snap, minus one screw. That exception being the the screw that holds a mounting strap for connecting the purge valve hose to the underside of the intake plenum. What a PITA! Took me four hours to remove this one screw and an hour and half to replace. So here's what I learned. Use the longest and thinnest 8mm open/box end wrench you can get your hands on. To remove this mounting strap screw, you'll need to loosen all six mounting bolts that connect the intake plenum to the head. Start in the middle and work your way out. Do not entirely remove these bolts, simply back them out about 3/4 of an inch. Now, from inside the car cabin lift up on intake plenum and use a plastic body panel tool to wedge between the plastic plenum and cylinder head, be careful to not pinch the rubber o-ring imbeded into the head. All you need is to raise this side about 1/4 inch. Now you have enough room to work your fingers better under there from above and you have enough clearance to allow for removal of the screw. Without getting this extra 1/4 inch I could not remove this screw as it back up against the engine while still needing about one complete revolution for removal. Putting the srap and mounting screw back on was a challenge but fortunately the screw doesn't need to be very tightend down (torqued to 7ft/lbs). Remove wedge and tightend (torque) the plenum mounting bolts, make final hose and electrical connection for purge valve and good to go. Like I said above evertyning but this one screw was cake. It's been three fill ups, and no more coughing...!
Loren, So I bought Durametric tool and used it to check my systems this weekend. The Evaporative Canister Shut Off valve worked fine when "activated" using Durametric. However when I tried to activiate the Evap. Canister Purge Valve, the software displayed the typical "wait" symbol that software presents when it's working, but it did not appear to activate the purge valve. Does Durametric software give you a "command failed" or other notice when an activation request fails..?
Thanks for response and suggestions Loren. I Checked for pending codes, using an Actron device. No pending codes. (Durametric software arrived yesterday. Going to Wallyworld for laptop later today, will recheck). I replaced the fuel filter less than 5K miles ago (about six months). Haven't check fuel pump output. but i think it's fine. No other indication of poor fuel supply except under condition described above. I'm thinking it's the Evaporative Canister Shut off valve beginning to fail...this winter it would click loudly, no click this summer...My suspicion is the ECM opens the Purge Valve to the engine throttle body, but the Evaporative Canister Shut off valve sometimes sticks shut. Thus causing a brief "fuel starving" condition... Am I off base..?
My 2000 Boxster base (late year mfg. 10/99), is experiencing a recurring issue that's occurred four times in past three months all under same conditions.... I fill up with gasoline (no topping off, I stop when pump first shuts off), and drive home approximately 4 miles. Next morning when I start car all is good until I get about 1/2 mile down the road through my subdivision. The engine starts "chocking" which appears to be intermittent shut off of fuel to cylinders, like I was running out of gas. Until today I"ve been able to keep the car running through this "coughing spell," which lasts about 10-20 seconds, then car begins and continues to run fine. Today for the first time the engine stalled. It took me three attempts with a bit of pedal pushing on third attempt to start the car. Again after about 10-20 second coughing spell it ran fine. This only happens when I park over night directly after a fill up. When I fill up and continue to drive for a while no problems....No check engine light illumination so far... I'm perplexed. Thanks in advance for a response!
I dry fit the wheels and the inside edge hits the strut with more than a 1/2 gap between the center hub and wheel mounting plate. Looks like 17mm spacers are needed. and hmmm.... possible camber adjustment..? Thanks for the PET image Brad.
So, I have an opportunity to purchase a 1969 912 with less than 100K mi. on it. body and interior are solid and all there. Problem is it's been in storage for 10 years, without ever been started. I was told it was running rough before they stored it. I completely understand what needs to be done (the process) to bring this baby back to life, but not sure what all it will take to get it road worthy at this point, time will tell. I'm thinking about buying this car as a project car.... my questions are: parts will be very hard to find for this car right? and If I do get this baby running as a good driver, what resale value is there in 912s..? I know the 1963 to 1973 911's are collectable, not sure of the 912... I can probbaly buy the car as for under $9K. any thoughts, advice and words of wisdom welcome... Thanks.
WOW, my first question to Renntech that did not recieve a single response.... What gives...? Loren, Maurice and other "pro's," shall I take the silence as an endorsement to NOT use spacers....? I'd like some advice so I can figure out what to do with these wheels...