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JuncoJones

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About JuncoJones

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Porsche, Porsche, Porsche, and some supercharged Mercedes, here and there

Profile Fields

  • From
    Toronto, ON
  • Porsche Club
    No
  • Present cars
    '03 Boxster S (986.24)

Recent Profile Visitors

883 profile views
  1. Cameron, When both the pump is ON and the solenoid is open, air from the engine bay is pumped directly into the catalytic converters. In the picture of the exhaust, you can see the bottom part of the pass-thru hole between both cylinder ports.
  2. The SAI holes go pass-thru accross the block (top to bottom). I've pressured-washed the entire area, which ended up working pretty well (a rather unorthodox approach, but I felt comfortable about it). You need to remove both intake and exhaust manifolds, spark plugs, disconnect battery, etc., etc. etc. Any excess water needs to be very carefully siphoned from all cylinders by using a vacuum pump (such as a brake bleeder). here's the link: Having the area cleaned up is a project, what also needs to be understood is the reason why those port
  3. Found what the problem was...an aged AOS. With the replacement part, works like a brand new car, same as before... Jones
  4. Thanks for your reply, JFP. I've already ordered a cooling system pressure tester, and will post the results once I get that done. Also very interesting your comment about the head gaskets...I'll certainly keep that in mind. Jones
  5. Hi there folks, I’m having some random misfires in my ’03 Boxster. I’ve disassembled the intake manifold to get a better understanding of the problem, and as per the picture below, there is clearly something going on with cylinder-1. a week ago, CEL came on for random misfires in cylinder-1 (P0301) Engine runs well, has high millage (320km) and no noticeable degradation in performance Checked the coolant, and was below the minimum mark (which was flushed a couple of months ago) On the exhaust side, there are dripping marks, probably coolant leaking through the exha
  6. Your list looks good to me, SteelStroke. I only replace the brake pad sensor cables if they were ‘chewed out’ by the rotors. Otherwise I’ll keep the new ones as spare parts, and clean and reuse the old ones. You also have anti-vibration shims, which fit tight inside of the brake pistons, and sometimes are hard to come out, particularly with all the road salt if the car is driven during the winter time. The shims are different for the front and rear calipers. Lastly, the small screws that hold the rotors in place, sometimes they also need to be replaced.
  7. All flags are in Ready state... very cool! and here's the BEFORE and AFTER graphs of the 02 sensors, also posted in the DIY guide. Cheers, Jones.
  8. Also BEFORE and AFTER graphs with the 02 sensors data analysis. Cheers, Jones
  9. Hi everyone, I've posted a quick tutorial on the P0492 error code issue. Here's the link. Cheers, Jones
  10. Here’s a quick tutorial on how to fix a P0492 error code on a Boxster 986 / 987 / Carrera 996 / 997. Error: P0492 – Porsche fault code 208 – Secondary-air system bank 2 Symptoms: no visible symptoms, except for the CEL (check-engine light) being triggered, particularly during cold engine startups with the SAI (Secondary Air Injection) pump running for the first 90 seconds. Diagnostics: when troubleshooting the P0492 error code, I initially focused my attention on all SAI components located on top of the engine, such as the SAI pump, hoses, solenoids, vacuum hoses and reservoir, etc
  11. Cool picture ;) ...and that's exactly the way the car is supposed to be driven! I've been using Liqui Moly 5W40 for Ever...and with over 300k, my car still runs like new. Here in Toronto it sometimes gets -30 Celsius in winter, and I had no problem at all with that viscosity. Jones
  12. I drive mine all-year around, every single day, and as much as I can. I use Continental DWS tires, which I think are great. To avoid rust, whenever possible pressure-wash the car, particularly underneath the body frame.
  13. Bjorn, Posting a video always helps, it provides us with more information. So if you can, go ahead. Now In my typical style, I’ll throw some unconventional techniques that I would try (and already have, of course) in my own car: Liqui Moly Engine flush – some people don’t like this product, I find it extremely efficient. It will thoroughly clean your engine from inside. These engines are highly dependent on effective oil pressure, and can potentially help eliminate oil-related issues, like sticky lifters and clogged solenoids. This will clean any gunk and build-ups, but of course,
  14. I don't think that scratch will have any impact on your project, no1joey. Your comment above is right, as both the seal AND the piston are the areas that need to be perfectly flat. There should be no fluid pressure built on that part of the caliper. I also suggest to make sure that scratch is perfectly flat, so you don't run the risk of scratching your piston while its moving up and down.
  15. Timbo, During normal running conditions, the car should idle around 680/700 RPM. If then you remove the oil filler cap, that should create a vacuum leak in the crankshaft, and the car should start running rough. The cap should always fit tight when in place. I also don’t think you will be able to hear most vacuum leaks, sometimes they are very small, but enough for having low or no vacuum formed in the system. And you also have 2 systems to troubleshoot: the crankshaft and the intake manifold. This is also where a friend’s smoke machine comes very handy. Cheers
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