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dpwell
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Perhaps this will help someone. I was having a heck of a time figuring out the part number for what I call J-Clips. Parts guys were clueless what I was talking about until I pointed out #15 on the exploded view attachment. They are pink plastic and Porsche calls them Plug In Nuts. They only cost a dollar a piece once you figure out what they are. I purchased some from Sunset Porsche, but they are readily available elsewhere.
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I sort of figured it may be a European thing after Loren's response. I live in the California Central Valley. I don't usually drive my Boxster in bad weather, but pea soup fog is not unusual and one of my biggest fears while driving in it is getting rear ended. I may try to figure out how to connect both the right and left rear fog lights together, but not now. The car has other more important issues to address first.
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Doesn't make sense to me, but if I was smart enough to be a Porsche engineer I probably wouldn't be doing what I do. Thank you Loren. I won't worry about it anymore. Happy Easter.
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BTW, Happy Easter. And thank you for helping me. That just taught me something. I never realized there were two out positions for the light switch. Still I assume there is not a maintained out position for the right/left parking lights and in the all the way out position at those selections, the fog lights should both be lit. I have wiring schematics so I will investigate further. I assume both rear fog lights are the same circuit (what would be the purpose of them lighting independently) and in order to make them both work, I need to remove the rear trunk moldings and trace the circuitry.
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Thank you for your response. It should stay out in the parking light right/left position as well (all the way counterclockwise past the off position)?
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Greeting All, I believe the second bulb inward on the bottom row is considered a rear fog light. On my vehicle it only lights on the left side, always when the light switch is in parking light right/left position, key on, but only with the operator pulled outward (won't stay outward on its own). Once in a while I have observed the same bulb lit with the car running and light switch in the fog lamp position. I've never observed the same bulb on the right side light. I just replaced the light switch, I've checked both fixtures for continuity between the lamp contacts and terminals, all the bulbs are good, the same bulb on the right side will light if power is applied to its corresponding terminals. Does anyone know how it is supposed to work? The operator must be pulled outward in order to switch to the right/left parking light mode. Should it stay out on its own? All the other exterior lights controlled by the light switch seem to work fine. I'm considering simply removing both rear fog light bulbs (I don't want one lit and the other not while driving).
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98 Boxster Door Lock Cable
dpwell replied to dpwell's topic in 986 Boxster Convertible Top Issues and Solutions
Okay, thank you for the advice. Generally I believe as you do, but in this case it's just a little hard to swallow (from an economic stand point) when the original may have lasted over twenty years. I think the design change may have been due to a speeder assembly time at the factory.
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98 Boxster Door Lock Cable
dpwell replied to dpwell's topic in 986 Boxster Convertible Top Issues and Solutions
The cable is $10.00. Pelican says the new interior door handle is $567.00. The existing handle works fine. -
98 Boxster Door Lock Cable
dpwell posted a topic in 986 Boxster Convertible Top Issues and Solutions
The left side cable end snapped on the handle side. After receiving the new cable we noticed a difference on the handle end of the housing and cable. Apparently there was a design change in 1998. Pelican and Sunset both list the part as correct on their websites. I bought the part from Pelican online. They say the old part is obsolete and I need to buy an updated handle, at considerable expense. My son says the original style is available on eBay and other sites. We pulled the handle end off the new cable and slid it into the old housing. He was unable to get the cable strands out of the old handle end, so he made a new end by drilling and bending a nail. He crimped and soldered it to the new cable (in the old housing). We're not sure if this is going to work or for how long. What do you think is the best approach? -
Thanks for your advice. Did you pressure wash the engine? I was considering that, but I think I should wait for warm weather. I usually try to replace aged hoses, belts and elastomers before reassembly.
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Not sure how to reply, but your engine compartment looks very nice. I hate dirty engines and my Porsche is the worst. How do you clean it without getting debris in the interior of the car?
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I appreciate the thought. I have a multitude of vehicles and always pay the DMV fees when due. When they wont pass smog we usually try to sneak them in there without a completed registration. In CA you can get a one day pass. I want the **** thing fixed though so I'm trying to figure out the best course of action. It has become increasing harder to find shops that will falsify smog certificates. We cleaned the MAF and blew out the air filter. No code yet, but all readiness tests not completed.
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This document indicates the 1128 and 1130 occur during idle when a lean condition cannot be corrected. 17109d1362502255-p1128-p1130-fault-codes-advice-p1128_1130.pdf
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Happy Holidays, My 1998 5 speed with 2.5L engine has fault codes 1128 and 1130. They popped up about a month ago when I took off in too high of gear and lugged the engine a little. We cleared the codes, but they are back. The vehicle registration is due on 1/8 and a CA smog is required. The car has always bellowed smoke occasionally on start up, but not very often though. Notice how oily it is around the intake? Is that normal? Should we try replacing the Air Oil Separator? The engine runs and starts great. We are piddling around with it now. The air filter is clean. We have the MAF sensor out and it looks okay. I'm reluctant to clean it (we have cleaner) because last time I tried (a decade ago perhaps) it had to be replaced. We don't have a fuel pressure test gauge, but am willing to buy one. Vacuum leaks are not apparent. I guess we'll look for vacuum leaks with smoke, we have cigars, no cigarettes.
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To: kbrandsma, thank you for your offer. As 1schoir said "Very generous of you!" To all: I needed 5 different tools. I didn't understand completely at first. The cost was going to be over $1000. I would have spent it, but they were not all readily available. So I went back to my roots (hillbilly, okie, tightwad, etc.) and made everything from stuff lying around. I probably spent about $10. I got the car running last night and it seems Okay. I have pictures and I will upload details when I get a chance (soon). Oh I did buy a triple square bit set & a power bleeder, these did cost $10 & $100 respectively. Thanks for your interest & support. Mike.
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