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About dpwell

  • Birthday 03/27/1959

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  • From
    Dos Palos (near geographic center of) California
  • Porsche Club
    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    98' Boxster
    74' Chevy 1 ton
    73' Chevy 3/4 ton
  • Future cars
    BMW 700 class
  • Former cars
    65' mustang
    67' T-bird
    76' Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 p/u
    82' Datsun p/u
    87' B2000 p/u

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  1. Okay, thank you for the advice. Generally I believe as you do, but in this case it's just a little hard to swallow (from an economic stand point) when the original may have lasted over twenty years. I think the design change may have been due to a speeder assembly time at the factory.
  2. The cable is $10.00. Pelican says the new interior door handle is $567.00. The existing handle works fine.
  3. The left side cable end snapped on the handle side. After receiving the new cable we noticed a difference on the handle end of the housing and cable. Apparently there was a design change in 1998. Pelican and Sunset both list the part as correct on their websites. I bought the part from Pelican online. They say the old part is obsolete and I need to buy an updated handle, at considerable expense. My son says the original style is available on eBay and other sites. We pulled the handle end off the new cable and slid it into the old housing. He was unable to get the cable strands out of the old handle end, so he made a new end by drilling and bending a nail. He crimped and soldered it to the new cable (in the old housing). We're not sure if this is going to work or for how long. What do you think is the best approach?
  4. Thanks for your advice. Did you pressure wash the engine? I was considering that, but I think I should wait for warm weather. I usually try to replace aged hoses, belts and elastomers before reassembly.
  5. Not sure how to reply, but your engine compartment looks very nice. I hate dirty engines and my Porsche is the worst. How do you clean it without getting debris in the interior of the car?
  6. I appreciate the thought. I have a multitude of vehicles and always pay the DMV fees when due. When they wont pass smog we usually try to sneak them in there without a completed registration. In CA you can get a one day pass. I want the **** thing fixed though so I'm trying to figure out the best course of action. It has become increasing harder to find shops that will falsify smog certificates. We cleaned the MAF and blew out the air filter. No code yet, but all readiness tests not completed.
  7. This document indicates the 1128 and 1130 occur during idle when a lean condition cannot be corrected. 17109d1362502255-p1128-p1130-fault-codes-advice-p1128_1130.pdf
  8. Happy Holidays, My 1998 5 speed with 2.5L engine has fault codes 1128 and 1130. They popped up about a month ago when I took off in too high of gear and lugged the engine a little. We cleared the codes, but they are back. The vehicle registration is due on 1/8 and a CA smog is required. The car has always bellowed smoke occasionally on start up, but not very often though. Notice how oily it is around the intake? Is that normal? Should we try replacing the Air Oil Separator? The engine runs and starts great. We are piddling around with it now. The air filter is clean. We have the MAF sensor out and it looks okay. I'm reluctant to clean it (we have cleaner) because last time I tried (a decade ago perhaps) it had to be replaced. We don't have a fuel pressure test gauge, but am willing to buy one. Vacuum leaks are not apparent. I guess we'll look for vacuum leaks with smoke, we have cigars, no cigarettes.
  9. To: kbrandsma, thank you for your offer. As 1schoir said "Very generous of you!" To all: I needed 5 different tools. I didn't understand completely at first. The cost was going to be over $1000. I would have spent it, but they were not all readily available. So I went back to my roots (hillbilly, okie, tightwad, etc.) and made everything from stuff lying around. I probably spent about $10. I got the car running last night and it seems Okay. I have pictures and I will upload details when I get a chance (soon). Oh I did buy a triple square bit set & a power bleeder, these did cost $10 & $100 respectively. Thanks for your interest & support. Mike.
  10. It seems, often when I try to cut corners, things don't turn out. I'm likely going to order the tool in a little while. mike.
  11. Amazingly enough I had only this morning reviewed their procedure. It is much as my original plan. I have changed rear main seals in other vehicles this way. mike.
  12. The clutch release lever on my '98 2.5 5 speed Boxster cracked. The RMS was leaking any way. I was going to just install the seal like any other. But, because of all the trouble with them, I'm reluctant. I'm thinking I should do it right. I've only found the tool at a Porsche dealer for $400.00. I imagine I should just buy it. Unless someone knows a more economical solution that will work. As always thanks for any help you can give me. mike.
  13. These guys call all the time. Its is a recording so I just hang up. Today I was doing paperwork when they called, so to waste time, I decided to see what was up. My car is a '98 Boxster w/ 93k miles. I have had it for less than two years. I have spent upwards of $1000 on parts and still have more to do. They say for $2000 I get a warranty that covers the car for 5 years and an additional 100k miles. I take it to the dealer (or wherever I want) for repairs. $0 Deductable, free car rental, free towing, and other frills. It sounds to good to be true (leading me to believe...). I was wondering if anyone has heard of, or has experince with these guys? Their name is General Warranty Service, and that they are associated with Duralube (an oil additive). I give them a deposit, they send the additive, I get an oil change and if the car still runs a month later the warranty starts. Thanks For Your Help, Mike
  14. I think the piston is broken or there is a problem with the valves. If the bleed down test consists of pressurizng the cylinder on tdc of the compression stroke, and air is escaping into the exhaust, that would seem to indicate an exhaust valve. pk2's response seems like the correct course of action. Even if the engine has to come out to do the repairs, I would rather fix my engine than take chances with a wrecking yard one. good luck mike
  15. I cleaned the MAF and it ran much better. So I cleaned it some more and it barely made it back in the garage. I replaced it and it runs better than ever. I have not driven it enough to complete all readiness tests, but I'm sure it is going to be alright. I have other problems with the coolant reservoir. Thank you for your help sending me in the right direction. Mike. :)
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