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Thanks Topless. I currently have the Base M030 rear sway bar and stock base front sway bar now. I like having my Boxster more neutral to oversteer for Autocrossing. I'm planning to sell the M030 front swaybars and that's why I needed the information.
Yes. Scroll down your CB Racing link. All the dimensions are there:) http://www.cb-racing...oxster_030.html Yes, I did look there already. However these part numbers are not listed: 996-343-701-21 996-343-701-23 The part numbers above may supercide the older listed number on CB's website. Please advise....
Does anyone know the differences between these M030 Front Sway bar part numbers, in terms of diameter and thickness size, along with stiffness: 996-343-701-21 996-343-701-23 http://www.cb-racing...oxster_030.html http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/986M/POR_986M_SUSshk_pg3.htm#item23 I've used the above websites and could not find the part numbers with corresponding diameter, thickness and stiffness. Any help would be appreciated!
Does anyone know the differences between these M030 Front Sway bar part numbers, in terms of diameter and thickness size, along with stiffness: 996-343-701-21 996-343-701-23 http://www.cb-racing.com/boxster_030.html I was using the above website and could not find these part numbers with corresponding diameter, thickness and stiffness.
It does vary somewhat from car to car but -1.5 deg. front, and - 2.0 deg rear are pretty typical. Bent cars are anybody's guess. Thanks for the information. I'm currently using front camber plates with -1.5 deg and -2.0 deg rear. This set-up has been great with Dunlap Star Spec tires for Autocrossing, where I'm getting good tire wear. The problem is the noise upfront with the top of shock hitting inside the top of shock well on rough roads. The Boxster was set-up with me inside the car and I weight about 140 lbs with 1/4 tank of gas and stock battery. I'm just wondering, if I would be able to get 1.5 deg with the ROW M030 with me inside and fuel load?
Check out this website: http://shop.wheelsrims.net/porsche-boxster-inventory.html This where I bought my Porsche OEM Carrera Light 5 spoke wheel for the Boxster at a very low price of $265.00. The catch is they are refurbished, but have a lifetime warranty (Whatever that might mean). The Porsche wheel I bought was the real thing, because it did have have Porsche part number stamped on the back of the wheel. I would give them a call and ask them if they have the Porsche wheel in stock and if they will ship out to China.
When I replaced my Catalytic converters with bypass pipes on my 2000 Boxster 2.7, the bolts are wedged into 3-bolt triangular connection. I sprayed PB Blaster pentrating oil on both sides of the bolts and let it soak for a couple hours to loosen the bolts. Then I used a mini-sledge hammer to pound out the bolts. However on the stubborn bolts, I heated the bolts with a propane torch and used the mini-slege hammer to pound out the bolts from the 3-bolt triangular connection. I tried a regular hammer first, but it didn't have the weight behind it to pound out the bolts. Unfortunately I had to make a couple trips to Home Depot to buy the mini-sledge hammer and then the propane torch. 1. I would recommend soaking the bolts with either WD40 or PB Blaster pentrating oil for a couple hours. 2. Heat the bolts with the propane torch 3. Use a mini-sledge hammer to pound the bolts out. *** Wear mechanic gloves to protect yourself from the heated bolts (propane torch) and scrapes from the exhaust system.
I bought some Boxster Carrera light weight OEM wheels for $460 from Craigslist in the Bay area. The only thing was that he had 2 rears and 1 front. I started searching everything from Wheel Enhancement to eBay for the front wheel. The OEM wheels were going for up to $800 and the rest were just replica wheels. I came across this website and couldn't believe it, they were selling Porsche OEM wheels at very a low price. I received the wheel last week and verified it had the correct Porsche part# 996-362-134-05 and size 7.5Jx18-ET 50 and in excellent condition. I have no affiliation to the website, just a happy customer. http://shop.wheelsrims.net/search.ht...003&part_type=
I have the first version of the cable and I have done 4 cars with it, including my own. So, I believe it's in the hardware of the cable and not the software. Durametric in San Jose, no limit.
I can't wait to see everyone again, it's been a long time. What kinda of beer should I bring? I'll bring my Motive brake bleeder, to flush and bleed my brakes with some of that Ate gold brake fluid that I just bought. - Duster
I had a really good experience with A1 Smog Check Test only in Milipitas, CA. I've brought all my vehicles here, including my Boxster and checked it for only: $40.20 $29.95 (Smog inspection) $ 8.25 (Certificate) $ 2.00 (Electronic transfer fee to DMV) They have the dyno built into the floor and they didn't need to open up the engine compartment. They just hooked up the smog computer to the OBDII connector in the car and it took less than 15 minutes to complete the tests. Remember to point out the OBDII connector underneath the driver-side dashboard, if the Tech can't remember where it's at. No coupon needed, just mention the Renntech Porsche board and they will do it for the above price. Here's their hours and address: Mon-Sat: 8am - 7pm Sundays by appointment. Tel: 408-942-7789 61 Suite A Minnis Circle, Milpitas, CA 95035 I'm just a happy customer who got a great price on my test only smog inspection.