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Pkscheldt

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Everything posted by Pkscheldt

  1. Stay away.... I bought one a few years ago, it did come with an old ripped copy of the Durametric software. Once I loaded it up in my lap top it worked one time, then I got a prompt to download the latest version of the Duramteric software. Once this happened the cable never worked again. Tried to return it.... Right, no luck. Bought the Duramteric and it worked flawlessly, I considered the $$$ i spent on the fake one my tax for being naive to believe a 30$ cable would do the job of a 275$ one.
  2. I am by no means a chemical engineer, but a few of my clients own service/gas stations and I've been told that the ethanol level doesn't change in the winter here in MN. I have been told that butane is added to the gasoline here in winter after september, reducing the "efficiency" of the gasoline 2-8%.
  3. Anything would be a guess without the codes. I would get online and order a Durametric cable and have it overnight shipped, when you mention the dealership I believe you are meaning PIWIS vs Durametric. In my case my durametric cable was a tool I ended up using nearly every month on my CTT. This was posted quite a while ago, it worked for me: 0. Stop and start your engine (in case you got already fault message) 1. Activate off-road /Low Range mode/ driving program (use rocker switch) with gear shift lever in neutral position 2. Drive your car for a while (move forward/backward several meters) 3. Activate on-road /High Range mode/ driving program (use rocker switch) with gear shift lever in neutral position It may "heal" your all-wheel drive system, e.g. resistor, which identifes mode in which system is and generates fault message when corroded - it happens when you do not use this feature for a long time... Also, you mentioned the battery was replaced 3 months ago. I would also HIGHLY recommend you disconnect the battery and clean your ground connection at the battery and at the chassis.
  4. Had a CTT for several years here in Mn. When temps got to 0 F and below I would see a minimum of 20% drop off in MPG, and all kinds of other issues some of which you mentioned that you never see in the "spring." A barely dirty MAF(s) or Throttle Body that would cause no issues above 0 would cause problems at low temps. A short warm up was also really helpful for the AT and Fluid etc, otherwise that temp related first gear start was annoying as ....
  5. I reset the adaptive section on the transmission with my Durametric software and all was well. But, I've heard of many who did not and had no problems.
  6. Could you describe the shifting problems you were having on your car prior to the repair?
  7. Just had the exact same issue today on my CTT. It turns out that the additional opening and hole is for a temp sensor for newer Cayennes. No impact for our older units.
  8. Update - The car has been at the P Dealer now for 30 days. Just heard that "Kessy is not recognizing the electronic steering rack" and They need to install a new one. It has taken 12 hours of labor to get to this point. Does this seem reasonable.... I'm a little suprised at the amount of time to troubleshoot. It looks like a new steering rack and 6 hours of labor more to go.... Thoughts?
  9. Thank you Loren and wvicary. Yes I do have the 2nd battery. I just replaced it as well, double checked all terminals. I'm about to start checking every fuse with a tester. I have to imagine I'm missing something fairly simple.
  10. Well, I came back from a trip and started again on the 2003 Cayenne Turbo.... Replaced battery under seat, no change. Replaced ignition switch/module, no joy. Any help will be much appreciated.
  11. Three days ago after driving my 2003 Porsche Cayenne Turbo (Minnesota) I parked, it sat for two hours and then when I went out I put the key in the ignition turned it to the right and nothing happened, no click, no mechanical noise I typically hear when the key is inserted. I have a message on the display that says Move Steering Wheel. The steering wheel is locked as is the gear selector. Interior lights work, stereo works, running lights and tail lights work. Windows, sunroof, headlights, and ignition will not work. I cannot get a connection to my durametric either. I have replaced the rear battery, (front battery is 2 years old) both relays under the seat and disconnected the batteries for a few minutes. In the last few weeks prior to this periodically when I tried to start the car I would turn the key to the right and sometimes nothing would happen, then remove re-insert key and it would start fine. Once I inserted the key and turned it to the right and the starter engaged and then stopped prior to starting. I removed key and re-inserted and it was fine. My contact at the local dealer is recommending that I change the ignition switch. Any thoughts will be helpful. Many Thanks!
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