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I'm just checking in on my post after a year myself and still haven't fixed the issue. I've been getting by for the past year by a little trick that at least speeds the filling up: there is a little switch to the right of the filler tube that gets pressed when you put on & tighten the gas cap. The button must vent the tank when the gas cap is on, and by pressing the button when you fill up it seems to allow enough pressure to escape to allow the tank to fill up (still slowly though). I press the button/switch using my key while I fill up the tank. It will only allow the gas to enter the tank at the lowest pump speed, but it at least fills up the tank in 10 minutes instead of taking over an hour. I've literally tried everything I can to figure this out, and I believe that I've narrowed the problem down to being somewhere between the tank and the evaporation canister, and there is a valve between the tank and the evap canister. Seems like I might just have the same problem. Any idea how your shop diagnosed that the valve wasn't working? I believe that this little switch, which is activated when the gas cap is screwed down, only tells the computer that the gas cap is in place and tight and allows the car to start and run smoothly without throwing the cel light. According to my Bentley service manual, installing the filler cap tightly opens the Operating Vacuum valve. Believe me it somehow makes a difference. Enough of a difference for me to have lived with this problem for years now. I just hold down the switch and the gas will go in slowly but surely (~5-10 minutes to fill up). If I get distracted and let up on pressing the switch down, the gas immediately spurts right back out of the filler. I'm checking on this thread because time has come to sell my Boxster so I'm going to give fixing this problem this another try. It looks like I need to look into my wiring. I'll update with whatever happens.

I'm just checking in on my post after a year myself and still haven't fixed the issue. I've been getting by for the past year by a little trick that at least speeds the filling up: there is a little switch to the right of the filler tube that gets pressed when you put on & tighten the gas cap. The button must vent the tank when the gas cap is on, and by pressing the button when you fill up it seems to allow enough pressure to escape to allow the tank to fill up (still slowly though). I press the button/switch using my key while I fill up the tank. It will only allow the gas to enter the tank at the lowest pump speed, but it at least fills up the tank in 10 minutes instead of taking over an hour. I've literally tried everything I can to figure this out, and I believe that I've narrowed the problem down to being somewhere between the tank and the evaporation canister, and there is a valve between the tank and the evap canister. Seems like I might just have the same problem. Any idea how your shop diagnosed that the valve wasn't working?

Might become a weekend project. Amazing - I'm experiencing the exact same problem. I took a look at the TSB, and it doesn't appear too challenging. From the pictures it looks like you only need to only add some ties to the hoses to tie them back and away from the filler flap. Let me know what your experience was like with the repair. Also - the repair manual lists a VW Specialty Tool 3217 needed to remove the fuel sender unit. The tool costs $250+ online. I read online that other repairs have used a flat head screwdriver or an oil wrench to loosen the part. Any advice on whether the specialty part is needed, or can it be removed and reinstalled without the tool. I'm concerned about ensuring that the part is tightened with the right torque. Thanks Renntech! :renntech: After taking a look at the job, I went ahead and bought the specialty tool for $270 with shipping. It was worth it. I could see getting the fuel sender ring off without the tool with an oil wrench or something, but a lot of torque is needed to get the ring back on tight enough without causing some damage. The tool is basically a necessity considering the space that you need to work in. I figure I'll put the tool on EBAY for a good price after everything is fixed and get some of the money back. The frustrating thing is that applying the TSB fix (tying back the fuel lines in the fuel tank against the fuel sender unit) didn't fix the problem. Gas won't fill more than 10th of a gallon and still takes an hour to fill. I have a 2000 Boxster, and the fuel tank doesn't seem to have a flap like the TSB describes. The entire design is different. The filler tub looks like it comes down farther into the tank (almost to the bottom of the tank) and then flares and flattens out. I looked with a mirror and felt around inside the tank and there is no flap. Does anyone know whether Porsche redesigned the tank? Also, does anyone have any advice about next steps (e.g fixing the EVAP canister) or something else I should look into? All the easy fixes (fuses, listening for the solenoid click) checked out fine.

See the following post: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...=0&p=102009 under "Car is on empty, but won't take gas". They refer to a TSB: TSB 03/99 2015

Might become a weekend project. Amazing - I'm experiencing the exact same problem. I took a look at the TSB, and it doesn't appear too challenging. From the pictures it looks like you only need to only add some ties to the hoses to tie them back and away from the filler flap. Let me know what your experience was like with the repair. Also - the repair manual lists a VW Specialty Tool 3217 needed to remove the fuel sender unit. The tool costs $250+ online. I read online that other repairs have used a flat head screwdriver or an oil wrench to loosen the part. Any advice on whether the specialty part is needed, or can it be removed and reinstalled without the tool. I'm concerned about ensuring that the part is tightened with the right torque. Thanks Renntech! :renntech:

Sorry, guess I missed one... Try 9211 or 9209 Thanks - I'll let you know how it goes. I really appreciate it. - Jeff

Please let me know if you can help me with the code. I've decided that I will disconnect the battery when I replace the sensor and will need to reset the code. Thanks in advance! - Jeff

I'm going to be replacing a MAF Sensor on my 2000 Boxster 2.7 next weekend, and from other posts it appears that I might need to disconnect the battery and lose my radio code in the process. Please help me with the code if and when that happens. The radio is a CDR-220 Becker 1 Type 4462 Serial # X5035823 24/99 Thanks a million for helping with this. I really appreciate it. - Jeff