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many thanks. you have PM
its an MY2004
has anyone got the pin outs for the multiplugs on the facelift 996 instrument cluster. ive got the same workshop manual as most probably everyone else and it only shows wiring up to 2000. did the pin outs change on the later panels or were they the same and the cluster itself was just different. i dont want to start poking about with the loom until i know ive got the wires correct.
thanks loren, i was hoping that somewhere it showed replacing the cables from their pivot wheels inside the pedal housing itself. that diagram from the PET doesnt show info in the internals of the pedal housing where all the cables actually connect. i do have two cables on mine, i assume the top one goes to the cruise control module, each sits on a 1/4 circle wheel and its these wheels im not sure ive put back in properly. i watched carefully when removing to aid reassembly however theres a plastic tab on the main accelerator cable wheel that acts against the uppper cables wheel that i couldnt see until i took everything out and its this tabs location that has me concerned. theres not a location for it, it seemed to only fit above the upper edge of this secondary (upper) cable wheel so that the throttle cable being pressed turns this cable wheel also, however while this would seem to be right both in terms of fitting and operation not being 100% isnt filling me with confidence.
anyone got any info showing the inside of the accelerator pedal with respect to changing the accelerator cable on a non e-gas C2. i just had mine off and am now doubting myself ref the reassembly of the internal pieces of the accelerator pedal. mine has two cables into it, one from the top and one out the bottom. each sits on its own 1/4 circle piece and its the relationship between these two pieces thats troubling me with regards how ive put them back. if you know where this is in the workshop manual then that would be great as i can look it up. ive looked and looked and cannot find it anywhere but cant imagine its not there somewhere.
ive got the workshop manual and am about to embark on removing my whole sunroof mechanism (ie sliding portion, frame, motor etc) but just wanted to clarify some points if anyone has done this. if im taking out the whole lot can i just remove the interior roof lining and then pull the lot in one go by unbolting the frame or does the sliding portion and the motor need to come out individually first. it may all become obvious when i get a look inside but it would be a great help if anyone already looked at this and had some info to share.
loren, thanks. ill check again in my manual and see if i can find the relevant section. ehm.......yeah. its there in the manual hidden under the heading "3.4 engine x51" which explains why i couldnt see it when i looked haha. now thats embarrassing. id looked right through the lubrication section but didnt think it would be at the start next to torque info. thanks for the direction. ill get a read over it and see what it says
guys, been looking into the X51 oiling setup for the 3.4 engines, the one where the head scavenge pump is replaced with a dual pump and a line to the far corner of the head to allow pooling oil to be collected from here also. ive only got limited info on this ie part numbers and a one page drawing from porsche showing how it routes. does anyone have any definatives on this or other info. from the various things ive found on the web and from the drawing it looks like it only fits to the one side of the engine, on the right, however given that the overall engine design is symmetrical im wondering if it should actually be applied to both heads and im missing the text portion stating this. why would it pool only in the corner on 456 side and not on the 123 side when each side is essentially a mirror image with its own scavenge pump? any info anyone has would be great. i couldnt find the TSB for this and the workshop manual doesnt cover it either. loren, if you can share your wisdom id be much obliged.
my current info is that the GT3 LSDs will fit into the C2 box fine. this would put the cup diff at the top of my list though with the extra preload i wonder if it may be overkill somewhat. going with the GT3 option knowing that i can get it built with motorsport plates may be a better process. i'll post back as i get some definites through. ATB type diffs can be great, my feeling is however less so in our rear engined RWD configuration. they dont work under braking and this is when the weight is lifted from our wheels. with FWD braking puts the weight over the driven wheels which should make slipping less likely and thus reduce the need for a diff under this state. since im going to track alot i really need a solution that will work here aswell as on the road when required and this is making me favour plate types. guard make great units so this might also be an option thats for sure. no option seems like it is going to be cheap however. ive got my box out doing some other work anyways so atleast i save on labour more or less. i'll post more as i get some definates on this however
anyone know if this is possible? the physical mounting itself wouldnt be too tricky, just a few bracket swaps i expect, its whether things will mount up at the bellhousing end with the engine that concerns me. im assuming that the G96 from the C2 etc uses a different bellhousing pattern than the G96 used in the GT3 and the likes. it would make sense that this will be like that of the older G50. its one of those things that a 10 second look at one of each off a car would let you know in a flash but without either here im left in the dark asking questions that are no doubt about to make me look stupid.
really want to put an LSD into my car as the final mod. i really feel i need one since i track quite a bit now but im stumped over the options available to me. the obvious solution is putting the optional M220 diff into the car however it seems somewhat lightweight (22/40%) and i cant find any specs ref the friction plates and whether there are motorsport alternatives available to put into this to change its ratios. while i go over things i'm left with some questions: does anyone know anything ref the diff that comes with the M220 and can you get it built with motorsport type plates to get it set to something that would be more useable (40/60%). is it essentially just a softened version of the same diff porshce use on all their cars? will the LSD from the GT3 boxes fit in to the regular C2 box? anyone fitted an LSD with good results. what options are there. im not sure Guard offer one for the C2 box and Quaife is an ATB type diff rather than the clutch type. im not sure how i feel about using an ATB in a car i do intend to track atleast once a month. if anyone has anything to share that would be great.
anyone got any more info in this mod? i ve heard from a few people that turbo/GT3 mk1 brakes will bolt right on to the C2 hubs both at the front and the rear. you need to get non turbo rotors for the front and there will be an offset issue using turbo rotors but apart from that its plain sailing. several people who track have said they have done it without any need for spacers or issues but i cant get anything more from them. unfortunately there seems to be a lot of posts everywhere with everyone saying that you need to change hub carriers so i dont know what to believe. can anyone post anything definative, from their own experience with trying to mount reds onto a C2 using the stock carriers. i'll probably grab a set next week and have a look see myself but in the meantime anyone with direct experience feel free to chime in.
thanks, i actually dont have xenons though, only regular halogens. does this still hold for the halogen versions just ignoring the pins for the stepping motor?
having an electrical niggle that im trying to get to the bottom of and it would be a great help if anyone could give me the pin outs for the headlight connector for the regular halogen lights so i can see where the loose connection is. i have the same workshop manual most of you have and it only covers wiring up to 2000. not a huge help :) the connector has 12 pin allocations, if anyone could jot me down the number of each one (i guess theres ground, low beam, high beam, turn, fog feeds) used and what it feeds it would be a huge help. if each side differs (cant see why) if you could let me know too that would be great.
guys, looking for some definatives on swapping out the front sway bar on a C2, i might be looking in the wrong places but there doesnt seem to be much in the way of detailed info. its obvious when looking under the car that theres a retaining plate with three bolts that clamps it in place but that this plate also holds the mount for the front arm. im fairly experienced when it come to repairs and work on cars but ive looked several times and cant decide if the plate is simply providing a clamp for the bar and an attachement for the arm and therefor the only weight and forces involved are the physical weight of the plate itself or whether theres torsional forces here and unbolting will cause it to pop out or off, perhaps with some force is it as simple as it seems, just jack up, unbolt three outer bolts and remove bar and reverse? as a result im loathe to just start on it with a socket. im sensing the lack of info about means its as straightforward as it seems it could be and im simply over-engineering but if anyone could share their experience i would be much obliged