D_Man

Hi All I was fiddling around in my car today at lunch and popped the small cover above the dome light off, it fell somewhere in the car never to be found. I need a part number in-order to get a new one on order. Here is a picture. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks D

There is a letter in Excellence April 2005 ed. page 22-26 that explains this very issue. In the letter Bruce Anderson is explaining to someone the proper method of checking the Oil in modern 996 type cars. As their are four different methods of checking the Oil Bruce go's on to say "How you check your oil will result in different readings. When you check the engine cold, you will get a higher reading than with the other methods. All the oil has run back in the sump, resulting in this higher reading, with the warm check procedures, there is always going to be some oil off in the far corner of the engine, so you will get a resulting lower reading." The four methods of checking the Oil in a 996 from the article. 1. With the engine cold when you turn the ignition key to "Accessory" (Gauge method) 2. By switching a warm engine off then turning the key back on and waiting for the time to run down to zero. 3. What Porsche calls the automatic oil level measurement when you are fueling. The motor must be warm. This presumes the engine is shut off for a few minutes (about 5) but less than 15 min. When you turn the key back on the oil level is displayed for approx. one minute. 4. The Old fashioned way, with the dipstick (Cold engine) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- the article go's on to say that the newer 997 and 997S cars no longer have dipsticks so you have to rely on the gauge on the instrument panel. The bottom line is just check the oil cold on a 996 and it will be fine. This method gives a more realistic picture of the current oil capacity. A little of topic but pertinent. D Man

Subject: M3 at Nurburgring http://www.dgtalpimp.com/m3_gtr_nurburgring.wmv If this doesn't get your blood pumping.... And make you realize how truly amateur we all are. I lost count of how many times I would have died had it been me behind the wheel. Toward the end of the clip he's got this car in Full song on the back strech really flying. D Manjava script:emoticon(':drive:')

Would that be the following? TW90-130 http://www.bmcairfilter.com/VisProds.asp

I have a EVO air intake kit, could you tell which BMC filter you used to replace the EVO one specifically, with regard to size type etc. A link would be even better. Thanks D

Loren is right I just did my oil in a 996 it took every bit of 9 qt.+ a bit more, to make it between the marks. A good rule of thumb is to add the 8.7 US Qt's then crank it up and let the oil circulate then get a good reading as to how much more to add. The last Qt go's slow in getting up to the mark, its easy to add too much if you are not careful. Get a good reading on the dipstick and gauge before topping off the last quart. It might be best to run the engine to get oil circulating then shut it off and let the oil settle to the bottom of the case before adding more. I just know it took more than I expected. D

The hub might need to be replaced if there is serious damage to the threads, but if you inspect it by taking the rotor off and looking closely at the condition of the threads in the hub with a 10-power or better Lens ; you can tell how bad the damage is. If it is seizing up while you tighten up the lug it doesn't sound good. Be-sure to look at the lug bolt as well, you might want to try a new Lug bolt first. D

This happened to me at a place like Jiffy Lube, The Tech (if you can can them that) over torqued the Oil pan plug on our bimmer, So esentially we were stranded waiting for the new oil plug while the Guy went down to the local BMW dealer and bought us a new Plug. Good thing it wasnt on a Sunday. So after this I made up my mind to never use a quick oil place again. Would you suspose the quick oil place would have any idea on the proper torque value reqd. on a european car like a bimmer much less a Porsche? Scarry atleast to me. D

Considering all the oil leak issues it might be prudent to go for the extended warr. if you have the cash to spare. D

I just did the poly rib belt took all of 5 min to change out using Loren's instructions on the DIY section. Got the part at the following site. HTTP://WWW.THE-BEST-SOURCE.COM 1x #W1000-84690/W1000-84690 Multi Rib Belt= $37.10 The old belt didnt have but a few cracks anyway, cheap insurance & keep the old for emergency. D (edit: fixed the link - Loren)

I would say several hundred thousand miles at least (baring any latent failures i.e.eng, x-msn). Most people don't keep a car that long for many reasons. But In my opinion if all the necessary maintenance was performed you could drive the car the rest of your life. But that raises other questions as to why you would really want to? I like my car a lot, but its human nature to yearn for that next new model. (As long as its a Porsche you understand) My car has 61,000 miles a 1999 a six year old car right? Six years averages approx. 10,000 miles a year. In 20 years at the current average I would have approx. 250,000 - 300,000 miles on it. As I figure My first Porsche was a 1975 911S that was faster than Hell for a 23 year old to be driving It was 10 years old when I bought it and is probably still on the road today. Long live Porsche

Well the Porsche Guy is wrong, there is a special wrench here is link. I removed mine by hand on the 996 but Im sort of a Big Guy and got a good grip on it, not a big dal just rember to replace the O ring on the lip of the Oil canister. Loren has developed a very good DIY instructions. On the 996 I really didnt have to jack up the car very much to reach the Oil plug. This is the Porsche one. http://shop.store.yahoo.com/eagleday/996carrera.html I took my Oil filer canister up to Autozon to see if any of thiers would fit. No luck this is an Odd ball size. However Walmart of all places has an Oil Filter wrench that will fit , Its called a 6 n 1 orange thing. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/b..._oil_change.htm Check these Oil filter wrenches out. http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/ShopCa...T213-detail.htm

I changed out my front and rear pads, with the frount I went with Pagid street pads (Black) versions. These were purchased from http://www.the-best-source.com/ for a wapping $113 a set. Porsche Pn 996 351 939 16 Pagid # N1010-87967 The rear pads I went with Porsche stock brand through Suncoast Motorsports www.e-partssales.com for 94.41 per set. Porsche Pn 996-352-939-03 All and all with about 5000 miles on these pads seem to be performing well. The condition of the brake disc is what will really help make your pads last if you change them out if they are questionable. The cost of Brake disc's has really come down in price, I picked up a set of zimmerman cross drilled rotor for the front for like $105 each. The after market rotors are same as the stock ones from Porsche with the exception of the Rotor Hat not being painted, which I painted my self. Porsche paints the rotor hat so the rust doesnt show being just bare metal. I picked thes up at http://www.eurowebparts.com/default.asp?ur...che/default.htm for like clost to $105 ea. for the fronts. Good luck what ever you decide, the most determing facotr is how much track time you will really have, because if you only track the car once or twich a year the extra money for race pads is a waste. Just one guys opinion. D Man

Here is a nice DIY this guy sent his out for powder coating. http://p-car.com/caliper/

I found a similar pump that might work for this. The basic idea is that is gets filled from the bottom up the level at which fluid runs back out. A very large drip pan will make this less messy to say the least. http://www.griotsgarage.com/search.jsp?searchtext=44480 The pump pictured in the ad will work for both extraction and dispensing of fluid.

An Old mechanic told me one time if you dont know the exact amount to refill an AT transmission, measure exactly what came out when unit was drained and refill the to exact amount. It would get you close providing the temperature of the fluid you drained was the same as you put back in.

uhhhhhhh :huh: OK.....the fill plug is on the bottom.....nice design...... Can they make it a little more complicated (?) and while they are at it and add in a healthy dose of pain in the butt. Guess I'll have my mechanic do this one. Trying that in your own garage looks to be a recipe for a lot of spilled fluids (besides the foamy kind). :beer: Thanks for the replies!!! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The tiptronic car is a little differnt I admit, but it fluid change can be accomplished at home. My car has 60K so Im not too worried about this just yet. The recomended fluid change is at 90K. I have read the factory manual on this procedure and it looks like the most critical part is the temperature at which the side hole vent is closed. The Tiptronic has a filler port and a drain plund located on the bottom of the pan. The filling is performed using a VAG 1924 servicing tool. See below, $289.00 at a internet site http://www.samstagsales.com/vwaudi.htm#trans . this is the same tool used by Audi, VW and Porsche for servicing auto transmissions. Basically the OLD fluid is drained , New AT filter installed, Pan reinstalled, then refilled through the lower filler port until excess pores out the side vent. Then car is cranked and ran untill the temp reaches 30-40 C at which time the side port is closed. There has to be DYI developed as Porsche dealers charge 200.00 + to do this work. Below is the special tool used at the Porsche dealer.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}> I have an early 99 996 that has the original amber lights. These give the car a bit dated look, But I think they work, I toyed with the idea about upgraging to clear light's but it doesnt seem worth the trouble. Now I like the amber just as well. The average person (non-porsche type) is not going to notice one way or the other. Here are pictures from my car.

I agree its best to drive these cars aggressively, one of the main complaints I here is the American's don't drive their porsche's hard enough. The 996 is not the first Porsche to ever have a design flaw, I remember earlier 911's had terrible oil leaks around the valve covers, there were other serious problems such a broken engine studs that caused quit a stir. In engineering we seldom get the design right the first time, but things do get improved over time. just my opinion. D Man

I think with all of the porsche tech savy folks on this board we should come up with a nice DIY for all those that want to attempt an RMS fix themselves. For an RMS failure is bound to happen on most early 996's Yes/No?

OK All bets are off now, I now have the CEL on when I installed the stock airbox and filter, So in the event the same codes are present, I need to look other places to fix problem. Anyway Im going to get a ECU reader for the car period.

I did one better I installed the Stock Airbox and reset the light, now No CEL. Im giong to drive it that way for a day or two before I decide to put the Air Pipe install back on. The Intake kit is great , it really gives the car better sound, and power, but at the expense of running around with the light CEL on. But the question about the screen ,yesy there is a screen before the MAF filter on the Airetec airbox, I know it draws substantially more air than the stock unit. Anyway Im going to keep working the issue, it would be a shame not to use such a nice piece of equipment.

Here's a nice Fire system for Autocrossing, I put one of these in a SCCA class ITA mazda I built. http://www.bergmanracingsupply.com/firesystem.php

Loren I talked to the Manufacturer he was very helpful, and said I could call back as many times as I like. It the same people that sell the Supercharger kits. www.evoms.com, I just really like the better sound it gives the car, because before just running stock the car had a muffeled sound. I this system perameters are very narrow on the newer cars. So it not so easy to do upgrades and keep everything running happy. Dennis

So do yo think that my MAF need's to be recalibrated at the Porsche dealer? I thought about trying this, put the old airfilter and Airbox back on the car and reset the CEL. See if it really is the increased airflow. Man, I really got to get one of those OBD scanners that I can read out critical Eng data, because all this theorizing is really shooting in the dark.