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D_Man

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Everything posted by D_Man

  1. I have a similar issue, I removed the drivers side door handle assy. and discovered that the door key no loner turns the long paddle on back of the door handle. Looks like I have the same de lima. So I need a used handle and swap out my door key cylinder correct? D
  2. Give up on convincing the Mrs. they are not wired the same as men, just relish in the fact that your Porsche pals understand your affection to the brand better than your wife, that's all. Porsche Love Story please view this. D_Man
  3. Here is a great site on rebuilding a M96 style motor. http://www.986fix.com/main.php This guy rebuilt a Porsche motor and put a website for free on how to rebuild a Boxster motor after he was insulted by Porsche at thier offer to help fix it. This website has videos and high rez photos of a complete boxter engine rebuild. D
  4. I got one from Sears. $19 http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_0...20070921x00003a Funny thing when I went to use it to replace my front tie rods, I unloosened the nut and the ball joint fell out of the wheel carrier. Didn't need it at all. D
  5. Im reviewing the procedures in the shop manual for coolant remove and replacement. As my 996 has 114.000 on the clock. I'm looking for a DIY for this and advise on using the UView or Rapidkitplus airlock vacum tool. Anyone done this on a tiptronic before, need the best way and which coolant you might have used. Thanks D_Man
  6. Paul I will post a write up on this installation when I get my parts in. At that time I will inform the board where I found the scavange pump kit and the avalibility of any others. I have been told that this is not a a total fix to all the oil lubrication issues that come up when tracking a 996, but it is a start in the right direction ,if you want a 996 to operate reliably on the track. At this time I would just be curious if anyone on the board has performed the X51 Oilling modification. D_Man
  7. Gang, I have 111,000 on my black baby, drive it to work almost all year long. I have been told it is better to drive these cars aggressively and often. Also change your oil 3-5000 with fresh Mobil 1 0-W40. Purchased it with 53K in 2004. D_Man
  8. All, I'm in the process of installing the X51 Oiling mod that was offered on early ROW 996's 99-02. This was a PMNA mod for competition that provided lubrication to cylinders 4-6 in long extended left hand turns on the race track. Im needing specs on machining for the oil return tube and attaching hardware. Any one gut any clues. This was a very rare installation and only came on the early Euro sport 996 with M96 3.4 Engine. Someone said this might have been in a TSB, but the information is seriously out of date by todays standards. PNMA no longer offers this as a modification. I no one knows about it Im sure I'll get by as its just basic engine machining techniques. D_Man
  9. The one on the very bottom is the accelerometer for the Traction control or PSMS. Not sure what the other are, my car only has the bottom one with the orange decal. D_Man
  10. These are wheels I purchased for my car to replace the stock turbo twist 17 in on that came on the car. Over all the replica wheels are of good construction and come from Italy, Im told the same factory as the STOCK OEM versions of the Wheel. The GT3 Wheels like this cost approx 1200 a piece. This entire set cost $1200.00 I'm sure the purists wont like um but I think they are a good buy for the money. http://www.wheelenhancement.com/index.php?...etail&id=89 Fronts are 18 X 8 ET50 weighing 27.4 LBs Rears are 18 X 11 ET63 weighing 32.8 LBs If anyone know the weights of the Factory OEM Wheels chime in. D_Man Forgot the attachments... D_Man
  11. you might consider rolling the fender lip as outlined in the 996 Wheel TSB, if you are rubbing on the fender lip. Eastwood makes a fender roller that can be purchase for approx $200 that might help your issue. Also are you running any spacer up front? I want to put 235/40/18s up front on my 99 996 car if they will fit. You could always go with wider fenders from MA Shaw. Let us know how you fixed this. Here are some links to think about. http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=...temType=PRODUCT http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=...temType=PRODUCT http://mashaw.biz/Coachwork2996.asp D_Man
  12. Dude, My car was throwing those codes for months, I tried everything: Clean the MAF, replace the MAF, tighten up air cleaner all the logical things. The problem 9 time out of 10 is a major air leak to the crankcase somewhere. I fixed mine by taking it to the dealer and the source was torn bellows hose to the oil separator. There are several of these on the H20 996's and Box'trs. I would start by inspecting yours. Parktown in St Louis Rubber bellows tube. 996 107 237 52 Bellows tube $419.59 replaced at dealer. You might be able to do it your self provided thats the cause, these are very hard to access with out a lift because of the wierd angles. Here are some links to get you going.... http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...&hl=bellows http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...83&hl=p1126 D_Man oo
  13. Paul, The fluid used in Tiptronic cars is Esso ATF LT 71141 it is sold in 20 litre jugs however, it is repackaged for all the German car MFG's, Ref. VW Audi Pn. is G052162A2 1 Litre. I used this stuff to service my Tiptronic in my 1999 996 C2. Provided your car has a 5HP19 varant this is what is recommended. I used approx 6-7 litres when I serviced my car. Whay are you doing this service, it normally is recommended at 90K? Just to be on the safe side I would check which exact model Transmission you have and look on the ZF site for service information located on thier site for the exact fluid reqd. Your Porsche parts advisor can help also. VW Audi Pn. is G052162A2 1 Litre can be purchased on line at the following site: http://etyproducts.server101.com/autobahn%20chemicals.htm approx $11.00 per container. But like I said you want to check first to see if you can use it. D_Man
  14. Sorry you had to learn the hard way, if you complain to them they will most likely send you another old part. Be advised that a junk dealer has no way of testing something before you get it. That A/C compressor could have come for a drown porsche in Louisiana. I'm very surprised that the dealer would use a used part like that. There is an alternative buy a service manual, tools and do your own work. In the process you will learn a great deal about the design of these fine automobiles. PS I just got my AC clutch replaced by the dealer it was a grand for that. Porsches are not cheap thats for sure. :oops: D
  15. 996 Guys One of my Keys, quit working, I changed the battery, but that didn't help seem the Button on the circuit card in side came desouldered, I attempted to solder it back but no success. Need cost of a new remote for that Key? Knowing Porsche it probably has too be programmed by them as well. Any Ideas, or is there a another post that covers this issue? D_Man
  16. Porsche Antifreeze is now being sold is the Pink stuff, I assume you can mix Porsche green with Porsche pink fluid. All Porsche fluid is concentrated meaning it must be mixed with distilled water to a ratio of 60/40 Antifreeze / Water or 50/50 Antifreeze / Water. The PN on the 1 gal Porsche container is reads Formula G-30-91 EF (pink), My Porsche parts guy said you could mix Porsche Coolant Formulas. I have used it for the past two years for coolant touch up on the System with no issues. I always go by strictly what Porsche recommendation on Fluids, this is an easy area to get into trouble, But I have heard of people using other products. Let us know how it turns out and why you think its better. D_Man
  17. Check out the size of the rear vs. front. 1999 996 C2 D_Man
  18. Hi Im wanting to get a Bearing Puller of the front and rear wheel bearings. Any one own one and want to sell. Or possibly know of a source for this tool. Thanks D_Man
  19. Wow Loren sounds like you might have had that issue before, thanks I will try it, mean while I'll start parts hunting a new Hall Sender, also is special tool 9616 a breakout box to the DME harness? D_Man
  20. 1999 I need help with P1539 , so this is the Bank 2 Hall sensor, how do I Test if ithe sensor is bad? There is not much on testing sensors from the workshop manual. I just dont belive it could be wiring since nothing has been changed. I guess the plug could have come loose but not likely. These are not that cheap like about $150 per side. D_Man
  21. As far as bleeding your brakes I have always used the traditional method of using a helper (your wife or Girl friend) inside the car pressing the pedal as You (outside the car) open the bleeder valve on each caliper, remember there are two bleeder ports on each caliper that have to be bled. The order is important since you want to work your way around the car from the fartherest point to the next furtherest point from the Master cylinder. (Order: RR, LR, RF, LF) A Power bleeder is well worth the money, since you only need yourself to do this job now. Power bleeders work so well the Mfgs do recommend the traditional discribed above any longer, ether way works just fine. I bought this bleeder from Pelican parts. Black Label European Power Bleeder Kit works on most all euro cars. http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca..._BLEEDR_pg8.htm $68.00 and some change. D Man
  22. Its very odd since Porsche brakes are some of the best. What brand of Pad was used? Did they get properly bedded in. You might try a few hard drives in the country to get the system heated up. When I first put on new Pagid pads they didnt seem to stop all that great untill I got them very heated up to the point of smelling them and making them fade. Surprizing ly the car started stopping better. The only other tip is to make shure you have a firm pedal, a spongy one is never good. Good Luck D Man
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