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About barlowdo

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Profile Fields

  • From
    Holly Springs, NC
  • Porsche Club
    POC (Porsche Owners Club)
  • Present cars
    911 - 1966
    911 - 996 - 2011
  • Future cars
    Just got the 996 give me a break
  • Former cars
    68 - 912
  1. I just got a mile down the road with my 996 about a 1/2 hour ago and saw a light on my dash of 2001 996 and it was the seat belt light. But I heard no sound. Not sure what that is all about and not sure I have heard or not heard it before as I usually am pretty good at putting on the seat belt first. Maybe my car has the same ailment as my Iphone after the lates Iphone update that killed the speaker in it ;) -Don
  2. DSspeaks, A fellow Porsche owner pointed me out to this page. I have had almost the same experience with my 2001 996 C4 with Tip. It has just under 60k on it. Here is a link that I put out on Rennlist awhile back that includes a sound file. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/729114-noise-from-right-rear.html To me the sound is like rubbing the teeth of a hacksaw over a loose piece of sheet metal. And always under 2k - almost like a break point. I had a person ride shotgun and listen for the sound and I could barely get the car to make the sound for him. Seems to be weight distribution enters into the equation. I have heard the shaft goes on the Cayennes so it probably can go on the C4's also assuming of course it is the same part or of similar design. Looks like it is time to get my car in the air and check this part out. -Don
  3. Any luck with this? Is the internal clock chip or whatever is used to create the carrier frequency failing which is giving you the changing frequencies?
  4. Try the above link. I do not have the article at hand but this post offers up more detail on repairing I went to the Excellence site but sadly they do not have many "free" tech articles to view including nothing for the one you are looking for. Worse comes to worse you probably could order a back issue.
  5. Hmm I have the same issue on a 2001 996 C4 with the Porsche Radio - CDR - 220 and separate DSP. I did not even think fuse as I can hear the changer running. But maybe the small fuse is part of my problem.
  6. I have what I think is a 01 manual but I don't recall reading that section. I will check tomorrow. Meanwhile that 15 seconds sounds about right. Thanks. Don
  7. I am guessing he is referring to this article and may apply to your key as well since part of your key works and part doesn't and it could be that your has a failing micro switch. "There is an interesting article in the June 2010 issue of Excellence Magazine entitled: "Fob 4 Less: Fixing a modern Porsche key for less than $3 bucks". The article describes rescuing a dysfunctional key by replacing a couple of small, inexpensive momentary switches. Looks relatively easy to do and since the electronic functions of your key are already messed up you don't have much to lose. I have one non-functional fob, but since the other is working I haven't tried this idea yet. I did call the dealer about a replacment. They offered to solve the problem for $375. If you go the diy route please let folks know how it works out."
  8. "OMG! Why didn't that occur to me???? It worked, thank you so much!!! " You and me both !!! I have owned my car since April and assumed from another post that the button needed to be programmed to open the trunk. I never thought to "Press and Hold". I don't think I even read in the owners manual that I needed to press and hold. Anyway I am glad it works as it is so much easier when you need to get to the trunk when your hands are full. Yeah I still have to release the latch but it is still at least one less step than opening the drivers door to get to the hood latch. BTW- twice now when the trunk is open I have heard a click. I then find the doors are locked if they were not locked previously. Both times I was moving some cables that are connected to the trunk CD player. Anyone else experience this? I am always glad the keys are on me :) -Don
  9. This is the first time I have seen a Nav/GPS in the lower slots. Here I have been moving climate control and radio around to go the other way :)
  10. Very good info, So obviously CNA does not have a max amount they will pay out like I experienced with Route66. I think I will look into CNA. BTW- did your shop find what was causing the metal filings? -Don
  11. The loan company I got my 996 C4 2001 loan through offered me an extended warranty, I was very excited about it until I read the fine print and the most it would ever pay out over the life of the warranty was like $3000.00 I decided to just bank the money. How many miles do you have on your 996 mine has around 52k. July 11th will be the end of my 3 month 3000 mile warranty that came with the car. I am hearing a little noise from right rear which could be a bearing or a tire. I need to get it in and checked out before the Warranty is completely out. The company "Protective" that provided the 3 month/3000 mile "Drive Train Only" warranty has not contacted me about extending it. I understand it is best to get a extended warranty when you already have one in effect but not sure if I will find one that is affordable. I did have to eat a repair on the cab top already and I missed that the 6 CD changer did not work. I am keeping my fingers crossed on everything else and I will admit it is nerve wracking. Update: I just located the extended Warranty it was through a "Outfit" called Route66. The warranty was the "First Street" warranty which only covers drive train like the Protective warranty that came with the vehicle. Drive train would have been fine with me as the warranty was 36 months or 36000 additional miles which would have covered my vehicle into the 80k arena. But the fine print is I pay $1,130.00 up front and the most Route66 will ever pay out is $3000.00 or the NADA load value whichever is less. So basically not much coverage. It was pretty disappointing. But.. I did not have to come up with much money up front - so what could I expect ? One other thing you need to be aware of is the warranty is void if I don't have proof of oil changes every 3000 miles. That is pretty tight on a car that can go ten k - correct me if I am wrong - between oil changes. BTW - I don't plan on waiting ten k for my next oil change. Don
  12. I guess no one else has experienced this. Oh well. I have concluded that it was caused my an animal with sharp toe nails. I can't blame it on the roof mechanism since this section is always exposed anyway.
  13. I have seen is "hydraulic fluid low" mentioned more than I would have expected. Where does the fluid go? Does it evaporate? It seems if it was a leak you would see it coming out somewhere. Don
  14. Thanks, And even better no ugly background soundtrack :)
  15. I have been catching my leg on the front License plate bracket of the 996 as I pass by it in the garage. Last Saturday I tore my pant leg on it. I decided it was high time I lose the plate that was put on by the dealer. Heck they are already advertising on the back of the car. Thank heaven I am in NC and so far do not need a front plate. - One thing I hated about NY. So a task that I thought would be ten minutes at most turned into a project that still needs additional work. As I removed the Advertising Plate I felt something wobbly connected under the Plastic Porsche front plate bracket. When I got everything loose I discovered it was the front sensor for the K40 installed by previous owner. It is mounted to the plastic bracket with two L shaped pieces of metal one on each side. (Both Very Very rusty) I discovered that one was broken off. And it was the "ear" that was part of the K40 that was broken off. If you have seen this sensor unit you know it only has two metal ears one on both sides, all the rest is plastic accept for the four wires coming out of it. I am attaching a photo of the wires where they are routed thru the front bumper via a hole drilled thru the bumper. I needed to take the sensor off so I could fix it so I attempted to get at the back side of the bumper in this location and could not find any easy access. I guess you need to pull the bumper. Maybe someone can tell me for sure. I must say for an expensive radar unit I was not impressed with the two small mounting ears. Even the one that did not break off was close to breaking as they are very very rusty and reminded me of cheap after market add on's. I could not get the sender off so finally decided the best approach was to velcro it on. I still had to use the Plastic Plate bracket because I could not disconnect the wire short of cutting it. I thought I could mount the detector behind the plate and just make sure I never put a metal plate on there but the detector would not fit behind it. So I velcroed it inside the top of the duct leading to the radiators. This is not the best spot as it robs some of the air flow as well as it pretty low on the car for Radar detection but is the best I could come up with for now. I am almost tempted to mount the detector above the rear view mirror but that would be a long term project. So now at least I do not have the metal plate to catch my leg or the better halfs leg on. But I still have the plastic plate holder mounted since I got the wires behind it to hide. A couple of pictures of the mount location. Don
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