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jpflip
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Everything posted by jpflip
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Here's the pin-out for the ecu.... Porsche ECU Pins.... copy - copie.pdf
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Good Idea Frank! Thanks for these suggestions. Of course I will need Loren's help with the "move" towards the DIY section. J.P.
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Your welcome '2wheels4fun. There is also a section called "DIY Tutorials" that is also really useful, if you become a "contributor"
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I don't know if this is related but let me explain my problem. I had a very intrusive PSM but no warning except PSM light flashing . As soon I take a curve at hight speed I could feel the PSM acting like crazy! Even in speed lower than the curve can be taken at....Since I got a PST2 I decided to bleed exactly like the repair manual is stating + with somebody pressing on the pedal 10 times (at each locations) before opening the bleed valves and also with a "motive bleeder" pressurizing the reservoir. All four wheels starting with rear right outside , inside, rear left outside, inside, front right outside, inside and finally left side outside, inside but that is where there is a difference, I engage the PSM pump with the PST2 and I bleed the right side inside, outside with this PSM electric pump "on" as per repair manual....No more intrusive PSM after this bleeding process!!!!
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Fedmax, do you know if yours fans are working. With Durametric you can test the three speeds of the fans and you can also get the compressor to work. If they work a low coolant level can also be a cause of malfunction. Fuse to check: Radiator fan fuse should also be checked C8 and C10, D6 for the compressor, E7 a/c,
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It sound stupid but do you have the oil level indication still working. I'm asking to know if a link between the DME (ECU) and the cluster is broken. Because all the other info from the OBC like temperature, average speed, fuel, are sent directly to the cluster or are calculated by the cluster....
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A good reset of the cluster by removing fuses E1, B1, and B10 (radio code needed but not sure).... I am in the wiring diagrams and I am surprised to see the boost pressure and boost air temp are feeded to the DME (ECU) and not directly to the instrument cluster....
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If you are desperate may be you should try to unplug and plug the boost/temp sensor. The location is shown on this picture....
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Joel , just went to play with version 5 and there is nothing to do with the instrument cluster except to erase a fault if there is any. But version 6 got more option, but you probably know about it, and I saw a command option and enable option for the on board computer. Did you try it? I went to 996- ME78-ABS5.7- K21- and instrument cluster- command- enable or disable OBC..... Do you have all the other choice when you select them with the operating lever for the computer, outside temp, mileage, average speed etc ? Also in the "set" menu of your OBC do you still have the choice to show the boost on the upper or lower display or "boost" completely disappear???? In the set menu you can reset all the display. Page 83 owners manual....
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Interesting comment. Thanks a lot wvicary.
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Thanks Richard for your input. In fact when I used the car once every day I've never get the noise but after a couple days without using it I'm most certain the noise will be there. It's seems to me so abnormal and when that happen I feel like when you are listening to someone who is running his nails on a chalkboard. May be I'm getting car hypohcondriac.
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Sorry about this post but I just realized that sounds to be normal for some people..... Feel better but stupid.....
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Yes it is back. On my last oil change i have switch from Mobil 0W40 to Castrol syntec 5W40. There was no more lack of oil pressure on start until last week....Did around 500 miles with this new oil and the growling is now there at every cold start.. The tsb 1728 was done twice to be sure this valve was not at fault but no success......Really discouraging....
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Good job Hijack and thanks for posting these pictures and informations.
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JP, not to get off topic on my own thread but I'd be interested to hear more about the clutch fluid problem you worked on. Did you end up getting it fixed? I've had a rag under my reservoir for years. Always thought it ws just a leaky cap... If your clutch fluid reservoir is overfilling, this fluid (Pentosin) comes from the steering pump reservoir. (always keep an eye on your steering pump reservoir oil level) The clutch system on the TT uses the steering pump pressure to relief the effort when depressing the clutch pedal. There is a valve that is called the slave actuator or clutch operating cylinder mount on the transmission and this valve in many cases is failing internally. The fluid inside this valve is migrating into the low pressure portion and overfilled the clutch reservoir. The only solution is to replace this actuator (item#1) or modify the complete system with a GT2 conversion. If you do a search you will found lots of information about this subject Also, because you are a contributor on Renntech, you have access to a DIY that I did: Slave replacement.... . J.P.
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Pleasure to help a desperate TT owner ;-) Yes I did a bit of wire inspection after a clutch slave failure, that make the clutch reservoir overfilled, and the wire soaked with oil (Pentosin).... If you are desperate take out every single panel in the trunk and also the carpet. Really easy to remove after you take out the big rubber seal around the complete trunk you remove some plastic fasteners, disc changer and panel besides it and out goes the carpet... Let me be honest with you ;-) I've had visitor too! I did a stupid thing about two years ago. I decided to store, for the winter, a big bag of bird seeds in the garage besides the Porsche. The mouse used the inside of the TT as a kitchen table, I guess. There was bird seeds everywhere... Under the fuel cover on the top on the fuel tank access, in the engine compartment on the expansion tank, behind the driver seat etc etc..... Keep us inform of your findings and good luck, J.P.
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If, on the pic I just added, it is what you are asking for (see arrow), it is only a rubber plug with an opening "funnel type" that it used to serve as a drain if water or oil is accumulated in this compartment.... The other picture posted is to show you the maze of wires is normal.. The other place you should look at is under the fuel access cover. The black cover held with four nuts....
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Are you talking about the clutch reservoir or brake fluid reservoir. There is a lot of wiring in both cases. Hope the mouse didn't heat anything in there....
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Sorry ,never done it but in the repair manual page 643 you got the generator removal and the deflection roller is part of the job.... Hope this help....
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Good find! Another happy ending. Can you imagine the money you just save by doing it yourself + , very important, self satisfaction Rep+ for you!
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The hose in U shape attach to the pump canister has tendency to split open. Take a good look at this hose. May be it is catching air..... Fuel pump#1 Fuel pump #2 Fuel pump #3 Fuel pump #4
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Need help with 2003 996tt engine start but dies
jpflip replied to pala996tt's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
Very good job pala996tt ! For your radio you probably need your radio code to get it back to life. You can get help from the amazing Loren : Lost radio code.... -
Need help with 2003 996tt engine start but dies
jpflip replied to pala996tt's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
Good job pala996tt. 10 psi is way too low. Like Frank (Sunnyside) mention I've never heard of a reduce fuel pressure trigger by some kind of protection.... I think you really got a fuel pump hose rupture. Remember to read the post I've provided you because there is a way to replace the hose only without going to a complete pump assembly replacement which is over $500.00. (updated part# 99662010802 and it is $617.25) -
Need help with 2003 996tt engine start but dies
jpflip replied to pala996tt's topic in 996 TT, 996 TT S, 996 GT2
May be you got a fuel pump failure. On the fuel pump inside the tank there is a hose in a loop that rupture in many cases.... Look at those four links and especially the one made by Pumalex. Very good info there.... Fuel pump. Fuel pump 2, Fuel pump 3, fuel pump 4 If you got access to a fuel pressure gauge you can do the pressure test at the port besides the fuel filter in the engine compartment. Target 3.3 bar +- .2 ( 43.5 +- 3 psi) -
Good job! But keep an eye on the clutch reservoir level, it should not become so low....
