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About fedmax

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  • Porsche Club
  • Present cars
    996 Turbo
    BMW Z4 3.0i
    Austin Healey Sprite Frogeye
    Mercedes SL 230 Pagoda
  • Future cars
    McLaren Dream Car
  • Former cars
    X5 3.0sd
    Mini Cooper
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  1. I fixed the problem today, it was very much straight forward: 1) Remove the glove compartment dampers by carefully pulling them toward you, they are attached by a snap mechanism 2) Remove the 2 screws each side holding the glove compartment to the frame joint 3) the switch is top right, in my case the metal bracket just fell off 4) I removed the switch carefully with a flat screw driver, inserted the metal piece and fixed it with some epoxy that it will always stay there 5) works like a charm
  2. Ok found a topic with the same problem: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/39768-glove-compartment-light/
  3. Does anyone have instructions to do so that are a bit more specific? Where does the arm go`? Thanks Ronny
  4. Does anyone know how the glove box sensor open/close works? I've worked at the glove box and a little metal bracket came off - I just don't know from where. Since then the car honks when I lock the doors. Thanks Ronny
  5. "Follow the instructions to alter the wiring to stop the "check spoiler" light from lighting on the dash" What is involved to do that? At the moment my rear wing hydraulics do not work and I'd like to get rid of the warning... Thanks Ronny
  6. I have he same issue, driver side ram leaks. We added the 5ml of oil. It went ok for 2 days and then did not retract anymore. Apparently Porsche upgraded/redesigned the system since it was first built and recommends to replace the whole system. Another Porsche mechanic confirmed that statement. The system is easy to exchange (DIY job), the issue is that the set costs 1200 EUR :(.
  7. Thanks Richard - very good list. But still my question: with all these fuses pulled (relating to all these consumtions listed in the document) what is still draining the battery i.e. which parts are not controlled in that fuse box?
  8. It was deactivated I tested the car with open doors but wouldn't that be offline anyway after I pulled the fuse C3 for central locking?
  9. Thanks JFP, I know the car quite well because I took a lot of it apart the last two years. All aftermarket stuff I did myself and that is wired to the fuse box, so...I have the work ahead that I don't want at the moment :-( So bring it to the shop most likely.
  10. I have an interesting battery drain. I noticed that when I leave my car stationary for two weeks, it's enough to drain the battery. I Installed a CTEK Battery health indicator and noticed that it's rarely ever green. For those of you interested: the Ctek Health Indicator uses 2 mA.So today I started my investigation with a multimeter. I pulled all lamps (trunk, glove box, left and right door and made sure no other lights are on and waited till the speedo was off. B1 pulled 167mA (Cluster Tiptronic, Diganosis and Power Top) C3 pulled 123mA (CU Alarm System, Central Locking, Power Window) D1 pulled 103mA (Power Window) D8 pulled ended at 100mA (Radiator Fan 2) So even after all fuses pulled I have still double the standby current left that it should have. At this point I have no idea where to look for as I have no accessory installed that are not going through the fuse box. The different accessories I have all end up in one fuse that I take power from (seat fuse). Do you guys have any idea what I could try next? Thanks Ronny
  11. sorry to hear that you have that issue. Mine went away after some time - as if the rollar had to run-in...no more sound.
  12. Some of you may remember this from last year, a quick statistical 996TT review. My smart phone app hasn't changed since, nor my love for statistics. 2012 was a very good year, service and maintenance cost were about half of that in 2011, mainly due to (almost) no repairs in 2012. Repairs in 2012 included the following: - Wishbone replaced rear right - Light switch replaced - Exhaust oxygen sensor replaced - Clutch pressure accumulator replaced What needs to be done but I just didn't get around to it this year: - Oil pressure sensor needs to be replaced. Sometimes it drops to 0 and a warning comes on that it is broken. I found in a German board PFF that when you replace it you may also replace the seal below the oil filter housing because that should be the reason for the same oil leak I also have on my turbo. Here is the link to the forum and the picture: - Second is the bigger problem, my rear spoiler stopped retracting and I discovered a very small leak. As a workaround I pulled the responsible fuse so that it does not come up. Year 2012 Statistics, all the numbers: - 22'236 km covered (13817 mls) - 2780 liters of fuel burned (735.5 gallons) - Avg of 12.4 liters per 100km (18.97 mpg US) - Peak at 26.43 liters per 100km (8.9 mpg US) - Low mark at 10.0 liters per 100km (23.52 mpg US) - In this time I added 3 liters of oil Top tip key learning of 2012: Never ever use Falken 452 on a 996 Turbo if you go beyond 200km/h. I found in some strange car board that it works really well on the 996TT, well it doesn't. It's a good tyre for cruising and country roads but no high speeds on the autobahn nor on the race track. At 250km/h it gets really uncomfortable, at 270km/h I had to stop. On Pirelli tyres in 2011 I could have gone beyond 310km/h if that bend did not come up (GPS, not speedo). And that in a completely stable car that gives you a lot of confidence. Small difference in tyres... Unfortunately not so nice pictures in 2012, I had other stuff on my mind: 150'000km reached in March 2012 (Pierre would say it's almost run in) Category every day car - DIY shopping Still gives me a smile on my face with its beautiful shape. Best fuel station ever I found in Lucerne: Yes you stand on a lane while you fill up...crazy. Dirty and ready for skiing! Found this little guy in the Porsche Museum in Stuttgart. No scratch so probably not used. Happy new year to everyone and I wish you a good start into 2013! Ronny
  13. Welcome to the club and year end greetings to Canada! Ronny
  14. Purge Valve Replacement - 03-06 Cayenne TT I did this one a little while ago, but never had time to get these organized into a tutorial for others. Here it is. Comments are in each pic, for each step to do. Each picture is numbered in the order to be done. Hope this will help you make the replacement easier (especially if you are new to doing such work). Author ciaka Category Cayenne (9PA, 9PA1) - Common Fixes and Repairs Submitted 10/02/2012 12:55 PM Updated 11/11/2017 07:34 PM
  15. It's been a while since I posted which doesn't mean that nothing has happened, so I finally get around telling about the new stone chip protection I installed a month ago. If you read this blog previously you noticed that I replaced both the large water cooler in the middle plus a radiator from the air con. Both these damages are from frequent stones that can hit the radiators without issue, there is nothing to stop them. First I wanted to address the issue with a ZunSport grill which I ordered from their website: http://www.zunsport.co.uk/ Depending on the car make and grill setup this could be a very good high quality grill but not for the 996 Turbo. This is why: 1) It is a mess to fit, you have to drill holes and it does not really fit perfectly. Based on the construction I can not imagine that there is a set that fits perfectly. 2) The OEM grills perfectly fit to the plastic underneath directing the air (and rain, and dirt) to the radiators rather to the underlying bumper and all the rest that would be exposed. 3) It looks stupid like cheap tuning So I almost quit the job but got the idea why not attach a regular racing mesh grill directly to the radiators? You can get these for 30 Swiss francs in every tuning shop. So this is what I did: 1) First needed to clean the radiators, in between the air con and the water radiators there is a lot of dirt as you can see: 2) After that the job was simple: remove the air ducts, cut the mes grill to fit and hold it in place by the existing screws and the air duct. 3) For the middle radiator I could not remove the air duct as it is attached with rivets. So I cut a piece matching the width but slightly bigger in height, slid it in and it is held in place by a slight curve. 4) The result is a car that is now protected from damaging stones but looks like a nice unmodified car if you don't bend over and look closely:
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