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jpflip

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Everything posted by jpflip

  1. jpflip
    It is a possibility but my concern is where all this Pentosin went to, since the reservoir was found empty???? In the past we saw many Pentosin migration that was cause by a faulty slave cylinder. But your case seem different. To be honest with you I did not see a clutch master failure so far but a mechanical part can fail! May be , since the reservoir was empty, you should try to bleed the system....And do a very good leak check....
  2. jpflip
    There was some case in the past were the clutch fork was broken. One way to see it, is to remove the starter and with a mirror there is a possibility to see a little bit of the fork movement. Also a slave cylinder failure is possible especially if there was no oil in the clutch reservoir..... The top part on the first picture and the location of the slave on the second picture... Remember the steering pump pressure is used for the clutch operation. Take a look at you steering reservoir to see if the level is normal.
  3. jpflip
    Good news. Thanks for the update.
  4. jpflip
    Take a look here: tip non repairable...But....
  5. jpflip
    Of course Steeve you need to do a complete bleeding of the brake system.....Very important! Sequence is RR, LR, RF, LF...
  6. jpflip
    It won't hurt to transfer fluid. I did it for a month before I received the parts needed for this repair. Of course, you probably know that you need to get a new slave (for the fluid migration from the steering reservoir to the clutch reservoir) and an accumulator ( for the hard to depress pedal. Clean up the area properly under the clutch reservoir because this fluid is bad on rubber and you got a big wire bundle in this area that goes to the PSM system....
  7. jpflip
    Previously debated....oil in intercooler hoses....
  8. jpflip
    Try replacing only the diode pack it is simple and cheap....(see link) The part # F 00M 145 350 is a good one.... Regulator replacement....
  9. jpflip
    But Loren, #6 cylinder is the closest from the front bumper not the farthest like mention in the sixth post, isn't it?
  10. jpflip
    Then I am confused too. I always thought it was the one in front right side....????? Always used the diagram you are showing....
  11. jpflip
    Agree with the rock88, you have to found out exactly where the leak comes from. and of course have a second opinion before you spend that kind of money. Take some pictures of the area where the leak comes from and post it ! We might be able to help you better after seeing some pics....
  12. jpflip
    There is no better way to found out. Good luck!
  13. jpflip
    There is a note in the OBDII manual : In the event of a short circuit to B+ or ground in the oxygen sensors ahead of the TWC, the mixture becomes too lean or too rich. This can cause misfiring. If, in addition, an oxygen sensor signal fault ahead of the TWC is stored in memory, first correct this fault and then road test the vehicle. Erase and try again....
  14. jpflip
    I was thinking about your fault. If the gas cap can be part of the problem because the tank vacuum for vapor recirculation did not work....The fuel cap being new, how about the main cap on the reservoir itself. May be it is loose. Very easy to found out , four nuts... Are we looking at the impossibility to create negative pressure inside the reservoir? I think so....
  15. jpflip
    This is one of the nicest post I ever saw!
  16. jpflip
    These products are in fact really expensive I didn't know you can get wax for $3325.00 !!!!!!!! Swissvax. But I can get the leather milk for $56.00 in Canada....
  17. jpflip
    Wow! That's a nice job. I especially love the job you did with the leather....Swizol, noted with thanks!
  18. jpflip
    If your battery is at fault the replacement is a simple process. But the alternator and also the voltage regulator replacement can also be done and there is some DIY out there. Here's the links for some of them Alternator replacement , and the regulator which is really easy to do regulator replacement also good info here Regulator replacement 2....
  19. jpflip
    Many TT owners had this problem of "intermittent oil pressure warning signal" and the only fix is to replace the sender. I don't know if Porsche came out with an upgrade but there is a supersede part# and it is 99660620302. The cost of this part is $72.00. To replace it it is a bit tight but can be done....I agree with Frank don't be too worried about little oil on your engine. No puddle under the car, no presence of oil in the coolant or coolant in oil, you should be good....
  20. jpflip
    The only previous fault that we have seen here on Renntech related to window is the switch within the door handle and the window regulator. The problem you have seem to come from the motor but I am not confident with that one. If the motor or the regulator were jammed a fuse would be burned... Please keep us inform of your findings.
  21. jpflip
    There is only two fuses related to the power window and they are D1 and B6 but if one of those was burnt you would not have any window operating. The first thing to do is eliminate the switch failure. Just transfer the left switch with the right one and see if the switch is at fault. Can you hear the motor movement inside the door??? If not you have to get to the six wires that are going into the door and trouble shoot from there to see if the motor is at fault..... Do the window go down a little bit when door handle is moved ???? Here's the wiring diagram for the power window system. There is only one plug and it is located just before entering the door (DP door X12).... You can disconnect that plug and put a volmeter there to see if you got power... Start with the grey/violet wire and a good ground while selecting the switch to up see if you got 12 volts....
  22. jpflip
    Thanks again JFP. I finally got a proper tool to test the fuel pressure. This is good to eliminate a bad fuel pump or a rupture U pipe in the tank located on the pump canister. The Actron fuel pressure gauge is good Fuel pressure gauge # CP7838 but all the adaptors in the kit are useless for a Porsche. You have to get at the same time for less than $4.00 the right angle adaptor # 01800-000-1299. Just connect the adaptor and the gauge to the port beside the fuel filter and if you got 43.5 to 58 psi it is a good news ;-) (repair manual page 544). Of course you have to activate the fuel pump relay with Durametric to check the fuel pressure without starting the car. Or remove relay #13 from relay carrier #1 above the fuse panel and jump terminal 30 and 87. jpflip: The terminals that you have circled look like number 38 and 87 in the diagram. Thanks for posting the tool and procedure. A blow up picture of the wiring diagram will show you a little difference between 0 and 8. It is important especially when you are ordering relays.... Regards, Maurice.
  23. jpflip
    Thanks again JFP. I finally got a proper tool to test the fuel pressure. This is good to eliminate a bad fuel pump or a rupture U pipe in the tank located on the pump canister. The Actron fuel pressure gauge is good Fuel pressure gauge # CP7838 but all the adaptors in the kit are useless for a Porsche. You have to get at the same time for less than $4.00 the right angle adaptor # 01800-000-1299. Just connect the adaptor and the gauge to the port beside the fuel filter and if you got 43.5 to 58 psi it is a good news ;-) (repair manual page 544). Of course you have to activate the fuel pump relay with Durametric to check the fuel pressure without starting the car. Or remove relay #13 from relay carrier #1 above the fuse panel and jump terminal 30 and 87.
  24. jpflip
    There is always some k16 for sale on Ebay. For the engine damage due to metal flakes, there is not much you can do except clean as much as possible the intake plenum to prevent further "possibility" of damage. Good luck with that one, at least you found your problem....
  25. jpflip
    I was going to mention, lately there was a lot of ABS problems related to a faulty brake switch adjustment..... Brake switch....
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