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jpflip

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Everything posted by jpflip

  1. jpflip
    And this fitting it exactly were you disconnect the hose that goes to the slave and you have to used two open end wrench 15 mm.
  2. jpflip
    Sorry but I never saw anything like this fitting when I replaced the slave..
  3. jpflip
    Somewhat related I puchased the 996 Essential Companion and it's AMAZING!!!! :) Certainly a different ball of wax then a service manual but since we were kinda on the topic I thought I'd give a plug. I am interested by this book can you give me some more info about the content (anything about the turbo.). Also I did some search on Ebay and the book is about $72.00 U.S. Any other source for getting a better price.... The last book I purchase was "Porsche turbo the full history of the race and production cars" and I love it. It is good to meet the persons behind the creation and conception of our TT ...Thanks, J.P.
  4. jpflip
    Since a long time I am trying to understand the slave functioning. In the picture you can see an explosive view of the unit. I have found: the accumulator and power steering pressure goes to "Pressure A" of the piston. Which is a smaller area to push the piston. So remember accumulator and power steering pump work together. The larger area which is "pressure B" of the piston got his pressure from the pedal. I understand there is also "W" that I would like to call a pressure differiential control valve. The pressure acting on the spring relocate the plunger to supply fluid somewhere else (I did not clarified that one). Also X and W are also pressure relief valves and that is where I have found a possibility of migration since there was a weak o-ring on the X part. Also my thinking was a migration possibility between the two piston pressure area separated by big rubber rings (pressure A and pressure B part). but they were in good shape. I had to suspend my study of this unit because now I need another unserviceable unit to do some test without having it in pieces. So I have to wait for my valve to fail again :( Or if there is any volunteer to send me your u/s unit I will pay for the shipping since I am located in Montreal Canada....I don't know if this will take me anywhere but understanding a system can lead to a fix....
  5. jpflip
    I think we got now a specialist in troubleshooting the variocam plus! Again keep us inform of your finding and also if you had to replace the hydraulic valve.... Thanks Andres for your post and valuable information.
  6. jpflip
    Why don't you just do like you did with the other valve in your previously post. Apply 12 volt on the connector of the hydraulic valve while the engine is running at idle and see if there is a change in engine rpm or if the engine is rumbling. It is exactly what Durametric would do. And if there is a change you know your problem is wiring to the DME. If there is no change you know it is the valve either dirty or malfunctioning....You getting closed to a solution Andres!
  7. jpflip
    An please Andres keep us inform of the progression....
  8. jpflip
    Sorry but I was not able to found the removal and installation of this unit. The one for the tappets is in the repair manual but not the one for the cams. I have found good pictures on Imagine auto site Engine removal. It will give you exactly the location and a good view of the unit itself...On the second picture the valve is in the top right corner but is it possible to check it with engine in place...I don't know and I cannot check on my car because it is in hibernation.... f...
  9. jpflip
    What you did with sensor #23 was perfect troubleshooting. Don't be discourage you were just looking at the wrong hydraulic valve. Let me do some search about this actuator ccamshaft hydraulic valve....Be back....
  10. jpflip
    Thanks RFM I feel better now... Poor IceYankee-Tsi you have to start all over again and you probably will found out a faulty hydraulic valve or better just dirty.... Anyway the part# is 996-105 -363-71 and it is about $163.00...Sorry this replied came before I have read your last post IceYankee...
  11. jpflip
    I am now a bit confused about the proper hydraulic valve you are testing because the one on the top of the cylinder head #25 of the parts catalog is for valve lift and #23 on the side of the head is for valve duration. Isn't that one you should test ? Because the fault P1325 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 2 – Signal Implausible it is not the valve lift as per P1344 or P1348.... Sorry for the confusion I am just trying to understand and help....To me the item #25 is the hydraulic valve to operate the tappet to get 3.6 mm or 11 mm lift and item # 23 is to retard or advance the camshaft....Don't hesitate to tell me if I am in the mud :unsure:
  12. jpflip
    Interesting subject. I have found in the wiring diagram that there is nothing between the valve itself and the ECU. You must now do a continuity check between those two. I added 3 pics. One for the wire connection to the valve. The second one the wire connection to the ECU or DME and the plug number. And the third one is the color code. Hope this help. Please keep us inform and good luck.
  13. jpflip
    Wow. Thanks a lot. Seems to be a good project.... Good luck JJBravo and keep us inform of your progression!
  14. jpflip
    Do you think it is possible to post it somewhere....Or to download it somewhere?
  15. jpflip
    Look at this picture of my car before I start working on it. Is it of any help?
  16. jpflip
    Just did a small visit on your site Wross and I was amazed by your beautiful turbo. Congratulation. House and neighbourhood look also amazing. Thanks for your fast reply. You give me another option to look at and I will do some more search on EVO accessories. Sorry I don't have a tuner and I don't know anyone in my area (Montreal Canada).There are many for Honda Civic but none for Porsche that I know. Like you said some more homework required....Thanks, J.P. (Also Macaddicted)
  17. jpflip
    I am planning to do two little (modest) mods . First I am going to order the Samco hose kit which include the intercooler hoses (in red) and the F hose for the diverter valves (Ebay right now $749.00) or should I order agency power ones from Vivid at 719.00 f hose not included. Need to put little color in the engine compartment... I would like to replace the stock diverter valves that can fail according to many owners. I am not planning in the near future to get an increase in horsepower or any ecu flashing etc. Any suggestion for diverter valves that will be good for me. I saw many types (I am a bit confused different springs, different springs colors some got extra port like the agency power etc) but are they all for higher boost or is there any for "normal" operation better than the OEM ones ?....Thanks a lot for your info, J.P.
  18. jpflip
    Did it as per requirement on this DIY and also the other recommendation from you folks and it make my life a lot easier. I did the four points. Turbos (2), crankcase, tank. But I have to admit I did a mess. I was not ready for the high presssure flow coming out of the tank after removing the plug... Little mess in my driveway... Thanks for your help.
  19. jpflip
    Amazing project. Thanks for sharing...
  20. jpflip
    Did you look at these two TSB's 7018 and 5717 may be it will help....
  21. jpflip
    Did the same and It will be part of my annual check up list. Clean-up time...
  22. jpflip
    Okay... heres the deal! I picked up the part at my Porsche dealer. Part #996 207 012 74. I pulled it out of the box and it has the same part number on it as the old part with even the same green dot. I pulled the part off my car and checked the valve inside. It was closed as it should be and moved freely. I felt the tension and it felt the same as my new part. I looked for signs of wear at the o-ring seal and it looks fine. The part is a pain to remove so since I was there anyway I installed the new part. I dont know if it's made a difference yet as I still have the car down for some mods... K24/18g turbo's, 5 bar fuel pressure regulator, GT2 Intercoolers, ECU upgrade and a spark plug change. I will let you know if there's a difference with the new valve but so far it doesn't look too promising. :huh: Thanks for the replied Rick. I did my oil change yesterday and did like you, remove the valve and it look completely normal to me so I just reinslalled it. Again it is really strange now I don't have the growling because it is cold here. I wonder if all this is not related to oil viscosity...Anyway the new oil is now Mobil 0W40 and only in may I will be able to test it because my car is now hibernating....Thanks for the info, J.P.
  23. jpflip
    Ok I see....It is now cold in Montreal and I don't have the growling noise anymore... May be it can be also related to the grade of oil since the oil is thicker when it is cold... Anyway I am doing the oil change this week because my car will be store from november first to may first...I will also dismantle the valve to look at it and let you know....Thanks gain, J.P.
  24. jpflip
    Thanks Rick I am waiting for your replied, J.P.
  25. jpflip
    Here is a link for your info Type1-2 over rev. Look at Wross996TT links. Very good info but people don't agree on type 2 definition...Just to give you an idea I purchase my car without interrogating the ECU and look what I have found after purchasing the Durametric software: Ouch : type 1 65535/1248 h (65535 which is the highest number the ECU will register. It stop at this number) type 2 67 / 1197h I touch wood, the car is running strong and the oil consumption is normal....
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