jpflip

Clutch slave cylinder and accumulator replacement. Please note this text was made by a french canadian. I hope you will understand my english. Sorry about any mistake. After the car is jacked 1: remove the aluminium cross member 2 bolts 15mm wrench 2: remove the drive shaft on the driver side 6 alen bolts 8mm allen key. 3: remove the cooling lines from the transmission bracket and tie them to the most left of the car. 4: Remove the cooling lines bracket one bolt 10mm socket. 5: To get as much pressure off after cycling the clutch several times I open up the bleed screw with a small hose on it to bleed the extra pressure. 6: remove the accumulator 22mm in my case for the one coming off and 27mm for the new one. 7: Remove the small vertical bracket holding the cylinder to the transmission 2 bolts 13mm 8: with a small wrench 13mm unscrew the most aft line (I purchase a set of mini 4 to 5 inch wrench very good for that job) 9: Remove the forward line but first you have to unscrew it from the bottom where the line is green. 2 wrench of 15mm. Catch the extra fluid. This fluid is coming directly from the forward reservoir. And after remove the line completely from the slave cylinder. 10: After you have to use the fuel/ac removal tool. I purchase a set for $13.00. It is to hold the red collar in place when you want to pull the middle line out. 11: The last 2 bolts 15 mm hold the cylinder to the transmission. 12: you can now take out the cylinder. 1 :Before installation on the old one feel the tension of the inner sring of the cylinder by pushing the actuator pin into the cylinder to give you a feel of the opposite force you will encounter when you will position the cylinder in place. If the cylinder go in place without this back pressure it is because you miss the fork of the pressure plate. This was my only concern so I use my finger to locate this fork and after I position the cylinder in front to locate the pin in the fork and after many trial I found I had to apply pressure towards the transmission casing to fight the inner spring of the cylinder and when I was confident with the position I screw in one bolt 15 mm and I left it loose. I screw in the other bolt 15mm and left it loose. 2: while the bolt are loose position the most aft hyd. line by hand that way you wont cross thread it. You can thigh it 3: you can installed the middle line were there is a red collar. 4: You can tightened the two 15mm bolts that hold the cylinder. 5: Install the vertical bracket with the two bolts 13mm. Remember to do this before the accumulator... 6: install the forward hyd. line and torqued. 7: After your three hyd. lines are tight , your 2 bolts for the cylinder are also tight and the vertical bracket also tight you can install the accumulator. 8: And the rest is simple backward process... Torque of the drive shaft flange to transmission is 60ft/lb I had a lot of plastic bracket broken so I used tie wrap instead.... Bleeding is simple. One on the clutch and one on the bleed point . Do not forget to fill the forward reservoir continuously. note.: At the beginning you have to lift the clutch by hand before you start having a pressure build up... Poor man set-up...But proud owner of a TT ;-) (that was in 2008! But now I got a Maxjax LOL!!!) That is the set up and tools require. Cleanup before removal and installation Slave position...