rrspikemarty

I've found a good wash and a wax adds at least 5HP at the rear wheels. Well, it feels like it..and it's a cheap mod. B)

kas996, Can you provide details of the spoiler LED indicator installation? Sounds intriguing.... (BTW, i'm assuming the LED is 'off' when the spoiler is not deployed?)

All CGTs are left-hand-drive ;) V. negligent use of the tow strap hooked over the alloy spoke. Hopefully the wheels are still straight.

Is that an easy/inexpensive DIY ? Any special tools required? Sounds like a fairly innocuous remedy that could be followed by anyone that suffers similar symptoms as yours, before taking car to repair shop ... just musing.

tlh, Interesting to hear of your similar situation. Was the extreme outside wear only on the right rear (related to the wishbone damage?). Was the camber, or toe-in setting the culprit (or both)? An alignment is in my future.

I suspect that my passenger side litronic is not automatically levelling as it should (it doesn't stroke up/down at ignition, the same way as the driver side does.) I read a Renntech post about need to properly align the high-voltage cable, but it looks OK in my headlight unit. I think i read that a PIWIS can report on a faulty self-levelling litronic headlight unit. Will the PIWIS tell me whether i need a new control unit, or just an electric motor (i'm assuming this is the servo motor for beam vertical rotation)? Following from that, can the motor be replaced DIY without replacing the control unit? Reason I ask is that PET has a headlight levelling system 'electric motor' part 996 631 135 00, and a 'control unit' part 996 618 151 15. thanks for any help..

If you really want to buy the car spend the $30 for a Carfax and spend $100-$200 for a PPI (pre purchase inspection). I agree with Loren, cheap insurance better yet, spend the $59 with carfax which allows you to request unlimited number of VIN reports within 30 day period (i'm not affiliated with carfax). Great deal, if you are shopping and have a number of cars on your list.

In browsing around on-line for Streather's new 'Porsche 996 Essential Companion' book, it looks like there're 2 versions (???). Images of covers below.. Anyone know if these are different editions, and if so, which is the 'better' one? :huh:

what effect does rapidly pumping the clutch pedal have?

Search is your friend... How to remove stripped drain plug? Doh. Nice thread, and I did try hammering in the larger size torx bit but it pretty much made it worse. But I think the screw extractor should work...now I just need to find a place that sells them. Try Sears or a well stocked hardware store. BTW Where do you get your oil? $42 for 9 quarts is a good price. have to agree! under $5/qt. exceptional (assuming mobil synthetic)

I believe Loren is saying to use a reputable independent Porsche shop (not official, but reputable).... The PPI report i received from a very reputable Porsche shop in So. Cal. stated 250 at all 6 cyls on my 2003 3.6L C4S. Is this reconcilable?

My car is a 2002 996 C4 Cab. Sorry for not posting that earlier. It would make sense. :oops: I deal with this problem every 2-3 weeks or so, since i frequently run the gas down to the point where the warning message appears. I read about this issue on another Renntech thread, and, following input from renntechers, i went back to re-read my owners manual, and it obliquely refers to the solution. After experimenting with how much fuel i need to add to make the message go away, i have found i need to add enough fuel to make the tank slightly over 1/2 full. If you aren't interested in completely filling the tank (i fall into this category), you just need to know the capacity of your tank.

i can make a number of suggestions, all of which i followed prior to buying my 2003 996: - buy a book that specifically addresses issues with purchasing a used 911 (or 996, etc), that covers the year(s) and model you are considering - look on the other porsche/911 sites both in US and UK for used porsche 'buying guides' that members have posted. There are quite a few...By all means, look on sites in other countries (German, etc) if you speak the language :D - pay for a Pre-purchase inspection (PPI) from an independent Porsche specialty shop when you find the car you are most interested in/making an offer - look at the comprehensive Porsche Certified Pre-owned checklist and use this as a guide for your own examination, and/or the work the PPI vendor will do, if necessary - search the many porsche (and other performance car) web sites for info on the model car you are interested in acquiring I found the search process to be almost as enjoyable as the purchase itsself. I would not obsess over the RMS and other "hot" topics like catastrophic engine failure, if you have done your due diligence and are confident the car has been well maintained. You cannot avoid the inevitable. And all the noise on the forums about these issues tend to be from those that have suffered such a fate (and not from those who have never had a problem). My sense is that there are many, many more cars out there with seals and engines that have performed exceptionally, than there are cars whose seals and engines have failed - as is the case with any car manufacturer (with, maybe, the exception of early Skodas!) It goes without saying that the Renntech gurus gave me tons of valuable insight and input.

Yes - please read the posts in this thread from March 1st, and go buy yourself a very long 5mm allen wrench (at least 6 inches long). - it's very easy to do. Hello renntechs.. This is exactly what i also am trying to do, and flunking out. My passenger side headlight points upwards more than the driver side. The top of the beam pattern is about 4-5 inches higher on a vertical wall when parked approx 12 feet from the wall. I figured that wasn't too far out of adjustment parameters and would just need a small tweak. It's not the result of body damage, for example. Followed the instruction in the owners manual (tells me to turn the adjusting screw clockwise to lower). I've turned the adjustment hex socket at least three full revolutions clockwise and the beam actually rose higher :huh: . I backed it off (counter-clockwise) at least three full revolutions and the beam is about where it was when i started. I turned the hex socket in the other direction and have still not been able to move the beam lower. Is this a known issue/quirk with the bi-xenons, or am i not being aggressive enough? Also, can anyone shed light on the following: - there's a philips head pattern at the bottom of the hex socket for the vertical adjustment. Is this an alternative method to make the adjustment? i.e. use a long philips head driver? It isn't mentioned at all in the owners manual. When i use a narrow philips head driver, it appears to rotate with the hex socket, but i haven't been able to determine decisively it can be rotated independently of the hex socket, and what it is for. - can i damage anything in the headlight unit by getting a little more aggressive and rotating the hex socket a lot more? Any help from the experts would be appreciated! Cheers. Ah ha! This answers part of my questions (i should have searched more..) In http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...just++headlight

Yes - please read the posts in this thread from March 1st, and go buy yourself a very long 5mm allen wrench (at least 6 inches long). - it's very easy to do. Hello renntechs.. This is exactly what i also am trying to do, and flunking out. My passenger side headlight points upwards more than the driver side. The top of the beam pattern is about 4-5 inches higher on a vertical wall when parked approx 12 feet from the wall. I figured that wasn't too far out of adjustment parameters and would just need a small tweak. It's not the result of body damage, for example. Followed the instruction in the owners manual (tells me to turn the adjusting screw clockwise to lower). I've turned the adjustment hex socket at least three full revolutions clockwise and the beam actually rose higher :huh: . I backed it off (counter-clockwise) at least three full revolutions and the beam is about where it was when i started. I turned the hex socket in the other direction and have still not been able to move the beam lower. Is this a known issue/quirk with the bi-xenons, or am i not being aggressive enough? Also, can anyone shed light on the following: - there's a philips head pattern at the bottom of the hex socket for the vertical adjustment. Is this an alternative method to make the adjustment? i.e. use a long philips head driver? It isn't mentioned at all in the owners manual. When i use a narrow philips head driver, it appears to rotate with the hex socket, but i haven't been able to determine decisively it can be rotated independently of the hex socket, and what it is for. - can i damage anything in the headlight unit by getting a little more aggressive and rotating the hex socket a lot more? Any help from the experts would be appreciated! Cheers.

i had an instance this week when there was no sound from my radio or CD player after briefly parking my p-car (in the shade). Immediately prior to my stop, everything was working as normal. But after unlocking car, and starting up, no sound! Radio was working (i.e., channel number is displayed, etc), but no sound. The car was parked for 5 minutes. Ambient air temperature approx 90-94 F in shade. Radio/CD unit is the CDR23; upgraded BOSE stereo with 6-CD changer in trunk. Following another appointment later that afternoon (this time, I closed the roof, and made sure the car locked with the double beep/flashing lights), the radio volume was back and working fine when I re-started the car about 1.5 hours later; p-car was parked in shade with air temperature down to about 70-75F I attributed the earlier sound failure to an electronics glitch possibly due to a peculiar combination of leaving the roof open, and my not properly depressing the lock button on my key. I have not been able to duplicate this yet. There is nothing next to the amplifier cooling fan. Any thoughts on what could cause this (i had heard that the CDR23 had some quirks)... :huh:

clay bar

Thanks for all your thoughts on this.. ....will send more pics in future, but i'm not sure these tires will go another 6,000 miles with the current geometry. :o

Anza Borrego Desert park, and points east; weekday. 120 no problem :D

Thanks everyone for the ideas.. sorry about delay in replying - been out of town for a few days. Tires were all mounted at same time 4,000 miles ago and not touched since. Tires have 'Exterieur Outer' on outside-facing walls, as appropriate. Paul - I've attached some pics, but not sure that the uneven tread wear can be seen very well (the pics are of the passenger side rear; the driver side rear is similar wear) I'm wondering... if i drive with 5 or 6 bags of sand in the back seat....? I'll get the camber and toe looked at. Does anyone have the factory specs for rear camber and toe on the C4S coupe?

Outstanding ! You definitely have my admiration.. A very impressive narrative of a successful fight for 'consumer rights'. I wonder if you could post (or PM) the information that identifies your case and ruling in the English courts? I realize that you had the British 'fit for purpose' law on your side, but it's possible the information in your arguments could serve as precedent if anyone here in the US is considering bringing suit against Porsche/its subsidiaries. I'm especially fascinated by the juge's comment that your engine "should have lasted for at least 200,000 miles before requiring any significant work and expense." :) Once again, nicely done!

Hi, The rear tires on my C4S coupe (6-speed manual) are wearing down from the outisde in. I've searched and read a number of posts about inside-out tire wear and wheel alignment, etc, but didn't see anything specific to the outside-in wear pattern. Some of the facts: - 996 C4S - PZero Asymmetricos front and rear, with 4,000 miles since new (all mounted at same time) at official Porsche dealer - Front tires in very nice shape with little wear. - Car not been tracked - Considerably sedate driving - I don't throw the car around in curves, nor push much past 80 mph on the freeways, and no rapid 'lay-down-rubber' starts. It is not a daily driver. - The treads are worn identically on left and right rear tires - The tread wear is even and smooth all around circumference of the rears - no bald spots, bulges, etc - The tread wear is smoothly graduated across width of each rear tire, with 6/32 depth on inside and 2/32 on outside edge - The rears have no cupping - The steering is tight and straight, with no steering wheel vibration/wobble - When driving at any speed, there's no unusual noises from the rear that you would expect to hear with out-of balance, or badly aligned wheels - The car does not pull left or right - Car is stock everything (no lowering or sport suspension, etc), with no parts damaged or replaced. - Tire pressure maintained per the owner manual I think I understand the negative wheel camber requirements for the p-car suspension and the driving it's designed for, and the inside rear tire wear that results, but could it be that my wear pattern is due to camber settings on each wheel that are too far the other way..? I haven't seen or experienced any behaviour you'd associate with wheels out of alignment. Is it possible/advisable to simply get both cambers adjusted, or am I looking at a more extensive alignment service? Or...? Any recommendations from renntechers on what would be the most cost-effective approach would be much appreciated! Regards. :D

All MY02 and newer cars use DME 7.8. So that DME 5.2.2 manual will not have all the new codes in it. The DME 5.2.2 is pre egas so it won't have that info either. You want WKD 484 121 DME 7.8 OBD II Manual -- US MSRP is $387.84 but check with Sunset Imports (Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost) to see what their price is. Loren, Many thanks for the intel!

removed - found answer

Can anyone confirm of the 996 OBD II Manual (DME 5.2.2) is the appropriate manual/version for my p-car (MY2003 996 C4S coupe 6-speed)? $55 from Sunset still sounds like a heck of a deal...