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Highlander

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Everything posted by Highlander

  1. Highlander
    For #1, the minimum thickness is stamped on the rotor hat. You probably have to remove the wheel the read it. It will be embossed in the hat and might be quite hard to find. I have had issues with Zimmerman rotors warping on my '01S and resorted to buying Porsche OEM ones. However, the last set of OEM rotors I bought did not have the coated hat and they developed severe cracking between the holes. If you go with drilled and slotted, expect to replace them and your pads (the holes and slots act like a cheese-grater unless champfered properly. #2, I just take the bulb to my local auto parts store and get the generic equivalent. Good Luck, Graeme
  2. Highlander
    This is normal. Porsche does not use a "floating caliper" design. The gap between the caliper and rotor is fixed and not dependant on pad wear. What you need to look at (you'll probably need a flashlight) is the amount of material left on the pad. If you look at this picture, you should be able to make out the brake pistons, the pad backing material and the actual friction material. The pads in this pics are at the limit of their useablility IMHO (my car, my brakes - yes I changed them out). Unless someone has removed them (I have, they are not shown above) you have a pad wear sensor on all 8 pads on the car. When the pads wear to about the depth you see in the pic above, you will get a warning light on the dash. It will start to illuminate intermittantly at first, then stay on all the time. When it stays on, it;s time to order new brakes, of schedule your car for a brake job. One last thing... :welcome: Graeme
  3. Highlander
    I can't recommend mixing tire brands front to rear, especially if you engage in "spirited" driving. Either buy a set of rears to match to the front, or (my recomedation) replace all 4 tires with nice new rubber. If there is still good tread on the fronts, talk to the tire shop and ask if they will give you something for them. Most places sell used tires and will give you a few $$ for tires with decent tread. The Kumho SPT is a decent budget tire. Another decent tire to look at is the Avon Tech M500. However, Tirerack has a closeout on the Bridgestone RE050A right now. This is (IMHO - I just bought a set for myself) a much better tire and at the current price is right in line with the Kumho and Avon. Good Luck, Graeme
  4. Highlander
    It's more likely the cooling system was not bled properly. Dealers have special equipment to aid this process that repair shops do not have. When I had a radiator replaced, I had to get insist the body shop take my car to the dealer to get the proper coolant added and the system bled correctly. Good Luck, Graeme
  5. Highlander
    Check around the rear shocks where the shaft exits and look for dampness. If a seal has blown, you should see evidence of oil around the shock body. Is the car still under warranty? If so, have you approached the dealer and asked their opinion? Graeme
  6. Highlander
    Only right turns? Is the bouncing accompanied by any noises? Graeme
  7. Highlander
    The ROW M030 setup has the same swaybars as the US M030. In addition to being a little lower (~0.25" IIRC), the ride is a little taughter, but not hugely so. For a daily driver, the ride height drop aloows the wheels to fil out the wheelwell's a little better so it does help the looks. As for overall performance, I think you would be hard pressed to tell any difference until you hit the racetrack where the slightly improved damping and lower CG will most likely improve lap times. The best part is that you get these improvements without sacrificing useability. The Nuespeed springs I used to have on my car dropped it 1.25" which made speed bumps and even some gas stations tricky. Graeme
  8. Highlander
    ***Update*** It was actually the latch mechanism that was faulty. $800 later and my window functions perfectly again :censored: Graeme
  9. Highlander
    Sounds like a blown strut to me. They are hydraulic. Clean it all off with brake cleaner and see where the fluid is coming from. Swapping out struts is not that hard. Check out me DIY in the " 986 Boxster Suspension, Brakes, and Wheels" section: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=4091 Graeme
  10. Highlander
    If you look at the geometry of the rear half-shaft on a Boxster S, the rear hub sits behind and below the output shaft of the transmission. This puts a lot of stress on the CV boot. Based my experience, 40k miles is a bout the service life of the boots :( The DIY is not terribly difficult. If you are comfortable working on the suspension, then this job is just a little more involved. There is a lot of labor involved so it will be an expensive fix if you have to get a dealer or independant shop to do it. I looked into simply replacing the half-shafts themseves when I did mine, but they are about $700 each! Since you have a split in the boot, you should get it seen to reasonably soon before too much dust and dirt gets in there and wears out the joints. Graeme
  11. Highlander
    From what I can find out, the Cup II's have the following dimensions: Front - 17x7 et 55 Rear - 17x9 et 55 Compare this to stock Boxster 17" wheels: Front - 17x7 et 55 Rear - 17x8.5 et 50 (or 48 depending on the wheel) Based on these numbers, the inside edge of the Cup II's will be 1/2" closer to the strut than stock wheels. In my experience, this will not cause fitment issues. Even if it does, any problems can easily be fixed with a small (5mm) spacer. Good Luck, Graeme
  12. Highlander
    Do you know the offsets of the Cup II's? If they are off a 911, it's unlikely they will fit, but if you can get the offset it will help figure it out. Graeme
  13. Highlander
    I should mention the PS2 is currently my favorite street tire. They are quiet, have great dry grip and absolutely astonishing wet grip. They have a rather soft sidewall which makes their ride quality fantastic too. The reason I'm getting the Eagles is purely financial - the race alignment I have on my car tears up tires in a big hurry. If I had a stock alignment, I'd be getting the PS2's. Graeme
  14. Highlander
    Don't sweat the lack of 205/50-17 in a PS2. A nice upgrade that fits perfectly on the stock 7" wheel is to go 225/45-17. the rolling circumference is virtually identical to a 205/50-17 and the added width reduces a little of the inherant understeer the factory builds in. I'll soon be fitting the Eagle F1 GS-D3 in 225/45-17 and 255/40-17 sizes to my stock 17" wheels. Graeme
  15. Highlander
    I agree with Loren on Tire Rack for tires. Go to their website and pick the tires of your choice. They will drop ship to any number of recommended installers. http://www.tirerack.com Porsche brakes have to be the easiest install of any manufacturer. Contact list sponsor Sunset Imports @ 1-800-346-0182 (ask for Porsche parts). Tell them you heard of them through RennTech and you will get a killer deal on OEM pads. Check out these fantastic instructions to see if you want to try the swap yourself. http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/brakes/ Good Luck, Graeme
  16. Highlander
    Does anyone know the ID and OD dimensions for the front swaybar? TIA, Graeme
  17. Highlander
    None of the bushings are listed separately, looks like if you need to replace the bushings, the whole assembly needs replaced. Graeme
  18. Highlander
    Thanks Loren! I really appreciate all the help you give. :notworthy: Graeme
  19. Highlander
    When I pull the handle, my window on the drivers side drops the 1/2" it should. However, as soon as I release the handle, it goes back up even when the door is still open. I can only assume there is a microswitch in the door that indicates when the door is latched and it is either stuck or has gone bad. I have looked in PET, but can't find any such switch. Does anyone know what I should be lookkng for once I get the door panel off? Or am I wasting my time and should just bite the bullet and let the dealer sort it out? TIA, Graeme
  20. Highlander
    Check out the info in these threads. Hopefully this will help. Graeme http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=2317 http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5265
  21. Highlander
    Thanks Trygve, my fluid is indeed low. Interestingly, I can find no evidence of a leak anywhere. I had a new engine installed last year (thanks Porsche!) and it looks as clean as the day it was put in. Up by the steering rack is equally dry - curious. Graeme
  22. Highlander
    I have an intermittent "growl" that I believe is coming from the power steering. Is there a PS resevoir anywhere that I can check the fluid level? The pump was replaced under warranty about 2 years ago. TIA, Graeme
  23. Highlander
    While the initial investment is high for the Pagid Orange pads, the overall cost can be lower than less effective makes. These things last a long time (relatively speaking). I went through a set of stock brakes in one weekend (and I was running on street tires!), swapped in the Oranges, and ran the rest of the season - about 12 track days - and will be starting this season on those same pads. They may be expensive, but they are also good value. IMHO of course, Graeme
  24. Highlander
    Unfortunately not. You might be able to get the fronts close, but the rears will be in the -2.5 to -3.0 degree range which is way out of spec and does cause significant wear on the inner 1/4 of the tire. Graeme
  25. Highlander
    When you get the old one off, you'll get a good feel for how much force you need to exert. I simply applied what felt like a similar abount of force and called it good. The technical term for 365 ft-lbs is "freekin' tight!" :D Graeme
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