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Highlander

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Everything posted by Highlander

  1. That looks familiar. I just did this, no special tools required other than a huge breaker bar to get the rear axle bolt off - it's torqued to 365lb/ft! I have plans to write this up and have the pictures, but have yet to find the time. Graeme
  2. Nothing special to look out for that is not mentioned in my suspension R&R. Another coil-over setup people seem to like is the JIC. You can find some limited info on it over the the Boxster Racing Board. Click the "search" link and enter JIC in the keyword box. Good Luck, Graeme
  3. The service manual has a specific warning about being extremely careful with the fuel line connections stating they are easily damaged and require the complete fuel line to be replaced if the connector is damaged. I'd speculate that's exactly what happened when they replaced your fuel pump the first time. Hopefully they recognize the possibility that it's the fuel line side of the connector that might be bad and not simply replace the pump again because that's the easiest part to swap out. Graeme
  4. adsach is correct. The wear on my tires is, um, interesting. Then again, I only drive 3-4k miles a year and that is mostly to and from the racetrack :) With my car as low as it is, I have -1.7 degrees camber up front - which is as much as I can get - and -2.8 degrees out back - which is the minimum I can get. If the reason you want to lower the car is predominantly esthetics, be prepared to replace your tires due to excessive wear on the inner shoulder every 5 or 6k miles. Graeme
  5. Sounds to me like bad alignment. If you are running toe-out up front, that will cause all of the symptoms you are describing. Take it to a *reputable* alignment shop and get them to check it out for you. Good Luck, Graeme
  6. I think it looks so much better as the wheels really fill the wheelwell, especially with the 245/40-17 up front and 275/40-17 out back. Graeme
  7. Are those Boxster factory option wheels? If so, there should be no problems. I have the EVO springs and they dropped my car 1.25" all aorund. I run 8.5" fronts and 10" rears with no rubbing. Graeme
  8. Based on my experience, you'll need to get the offset down to about 45mm. This is easily achieved using spacers. Simply subract the width of the spacer from the current wheels offset. So if your wheels have a 65mm offset, you'll need 20mm spacers. Good Luck, Graeme
  9. Hope this helps: http://gwl.rmsolo.org/exhaust/ Graeme
  10. yup, I just did this. 32mm socket required. Graeme
  11. I have them on my M3. Fantastic street tire for autocross (SCCA STU class). They handle wet roads much better than the Azenis 215 and also don't turn into gumballs at the track like 215's. However, the jury is out whether the 615 is actually faster then the 215. Nice choice, Graeme
  12. G'day Mate! :cheers: Here ya go, C23 - Australian vehicle 584 - Storage box above engine lid (Boxster) Graeme
  13. Find someone who can get H&R stuff. They have threaded studs that have a knuckle 1/2" up so that you can thread it into the existing hole for your lugbolt and it leaves a regular threaded stud. Then you can procure the same set of nuts you have that matches the rear. I used these studs on my car: M14x1.5x60 studs... H&R part #1456005 which are a little long for your application. I don't know if H&R make a shorter version but you can always cut off any excess. Good luck, Graeme
  14. The contraption is the bleed valve. You might check the bolts for snugness, but I would not advise tightening them unless one is obviously loose. If you ever need to bleed the system, pop the wire up so that it is vertical. This allows air to bleed from the system without needing the pressurised equipment the dealer uses. Good Luck, Graeme
  15. First off, Welcome! :cheers: The space is going to be so tight with a 1" drop that I'm afraid the answer is "maybe". I'm successfuly running 275's on 10's, lowered 1.25" and I don't know if I have a spare 10mm to go with a wider tire. Depending on your particular car and the offset of your wheels, you might be able to make everything fit, but I can't give you a definitive "yes". Tell us the width and offset of your RUF wheels and I might be able to give you more guidance? Graeme
  16. Not so popular to tint convertable windows. I personally just leave the top down to stop it getting too hot inside :) Some have tinted the side windows and if I lived in a hot humid state I would too. You cannot successfully apply tint to the plastic rear window. The tint would not stay attached as the window flexes when the top is raised and lowered and would soon look like crap. Graeme
  17. You are welcome. I destroyed a set of Michelin PS2's in short order by squeezing 225's on 9" wheels. Graeme
  18. 245 on a 10" wheel is pushing it. I have run 225's on 9's and it was a serious squeeze. 245 on a 10 is even more of a squeeze. Having said that, they will fit and you can run them. The combination of lack of camber and sidewalls angles inwards will cause seriously accelerated wear on the out er 1/2" of the tire. You would be better to acquire another set of wheels. 9" wheels work well with 245's and wih the correct offset, you can easily run 9's on all four corners. Graeme
  19. Yup, been there done that. Early in 2002 I installed the EVO intake on my '01 S. The car ran fine for about 6 months or so then started to be difficult to drive when cold. Ultimtely - in the middle of a charity autocross where I was giving rides to local celebs and movers and shakers, it would not idle without me working the throttle. In fact, it would hardly idle at all. At the sugesstion of my local Porsche master tech, I disconnected the MAF and drove home (120miles) with no issues. In fact, I didn't even notice any difference, then again the car was nicely warmed up. As lots of people had mentioned at the time, the MAF was obviously contaminated with filter oil. I removed it and carefully cleaned the sensor part by dribbling (NOT spraying or rubbing) electrical contact cleaner on it. I also cleaned and re-oiled the filter being sure not to over oil it. Since then, no problems whatsoever. I clean and re-oil the filter once a year during my spring pre-season preparations. Graeme
  20. Unless the CEL is flashing, you'll be fine. Did you fill up with gas recently? If the gas cap is not tight, that will throw a code. If the problem is minor, the light may go out by itself after a few start/stop cycles. Graeme
  21. Hmmmm. I have 10" wheels on the rear of my '01 with a 47mm offset. No rubbing. Actually, the wheels have a 50mm offset and I'm using a 3mm spacer - I'm pretty sure 1 or 2mm would work, but all I had lying around the garage was a 3mm spacer so that's what I'm using. RandallNeighbour, The 50mm offset 8's will fit fine up front with no issues or spacers required. For the rears, you will need to get the offset down to 47mm or less. Spacers effectively reduce the offset, so a 25mm spacer would bring the offset down to 40mm which will fit OK. Any more and you run the risk of rubbing the fender with the outside of the tire. Graeme
  22. If you left the key in the ignition while you disconnected everything, it's time for a trip to the dealer to get them to turn the light off. No big deal. Graeme
  23. Crazy thing is, pads on a Boxster are by far the easiest to change on any vehicle I have ever owned. It takes longer to get the car up and the wheels off than it does to actually swap out the pads. To see just how easy it is, check out these great and comprehensive instructions put together by Trygve Isaacson: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/proje...es/change_pads/ Check Porsche Pete's Boxster Board site for great Boxster info and general socialising: http://www.ppbb.com/board/986board.htm and if you plan on autocrossing or tracking your new toy, the Boxster Racing Board: http://www.iq.dynip.com/~racing/index.cgi Graeme
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