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mickf
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You should be able to get bungs welded on at any muffler shop. If you take a sensor with you along with the exhaust piece getting the bungs, there would be no question re fit. Unless you take the car to have the work done, you will need to mark exactly where you want the bungs placed and give full consideration to the space needed to accomodate insertion of the sensor and routing of its wires. You should have the new bungs placed somewhere after the remaining cat. The placement on your stock 03 before & after the pre-cat, and on earlier models before & after the main cat, tells me there should be a catalytic converter between the two sensors on each side.
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The main cat has a bung near its outlet. It's on top so may be hard to see just looking underneath the car. Take a look at the very top of the diagram in your earlier posting & you can see where the sensor screws in to the bung.
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I lengthened my cables and had no "timing" problems. The problem I did have was getting good, durable splices. I'd seen conflicting info on whether solder or crimping was best, so soldered two extensions and crimped the other two. I searched for but never found any pluggable extensions. If you use copper extensions, as I did, then crimping is the way to go. The problem with soldering is that the OEM wiring is stainless steel, which doesn't solder well to copper -- at least not with the Radio Shack solder I was using. I've done a lot of soldering over the years and never had this problem before, but had never tried to solder these two metals together either. Several of the soldered joints failed resulting in CELs. So I redid all the soldered joints with crimps last October, and nary a CEL since then. Good luck, Mick
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No doubt a Porsche-engineered solution as suggested by Loren would be best. Nonetheless, good aftermarket lowering springs such as H&R or Eibach will do the job and will not cause the problems you had with your Mercedes. You will get up to about 1 more degree negative camber, which will not ruin your tires assuming you get a good alignment done after installing the springs. The biggest problems with lowering, IMHO, are severe speed bumps, steep driveway ramps, etc. My '01 S had H&Rs for about 45,000 mi; I then switched to JIC coilovers which allowed me to raise the car a tad and to adjust stiffness for autocrossing, etc.
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Hey, I am a 60 yr old grandpa. I drive my '01S with plenty of gusto and am also frequently in the 16 mpg range. But like stumpjumper, it can vary wildly depending on what I'm doing with the tank of gas. According to my OBC, I average about 4.5 mpg in an autocross! ;)
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The tip on my '01 S has done all things you describe, including the occasional P0740, for the past couple years which covers over 30,000 miles and about 100 autocrosses. I notice the RPM change when cruising and whether in M or D, often when the highway changes from level to uphill. Almost like a mini-downshift. If it does it while autocrossing it can't be noticed -- but the P0740s do seem to appear following a particularly brutal autocross. The good news is that it doesn't seem to get worse -- it's just there to annoy me. Also, it doesn't seem to adversely affect my autocrossing. The worst part to me is how it demonstrates the woeful lack of Tiptronic expertise that seems to exist. My dealership has spent hours on it and came up with nothing except to watch it. Other shops I talk to, well, you can see their eyes glazing over......... I eventually decided to stop stressing over it and to think of it as a feature -- slightly lower gearing when dictated by load on the drive train! :cursing: Who knows, maybe it's giving me a gearing advantage in competition.
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Stock S vs M30 ROW suspension
mickf replied to thomschoon's topic in 986 Boxster Suspension, Brakes, and Wheels
You can find the diameter, thickness (yes, the sway bars are tubular) and relative stiffness specs at the bottom of this link: http://www.cb-racing.com/boxster_030.html -
The higher pressure will make the handling feel more crisp and the ride more firm, both due to less sidewall flex. It may also decrease grip though. IMHO, for best handling try rear in mid-30s and front a couple psi higher than the rear. I believe the 29 psi front specification is designed to ensure understeer, which is easier to recover from than oversteer should you get out of shape.
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Got mine at my local non-big-box hardware store. Seen at auto parts stores, Sears.
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You don't want it rattling -- it should be in there fairly firm. Sounds like a couple spots of foam tape would provide enough tension to solve it. Good luck.
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I just ordered headers for my '01 Boxster S. Having searched this and several other forums, I've found some conflicting info on bung placement. - Am I correct that the O2 sensors that are behind the stock secondary cats (the cats that are integral with the stock headers) need to be placed behind the primary (rear) cats? - And that the O2 sensors that are at the front of the stock secondary cats can be placed anywhere before the primary cats, i.e., at the new header collectors? - Is there a stock O2 sensor available from Porsche or others with a wire length that will reach the rear of the primary cats? Many thanks, just seeking confirmation before doing!
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I've seen that with mine. I'm pretty sure the problem was that when putting it back on after a wash I snapped the upper clips without first ensuring the bottom of the deflector was properly centered on the gizmo in the middle of the roll bar. In other words, operator error. :o
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Maybe a pebble between the rotor's backside and its protective plate. I get them sometimes and the screech can drive me nuts! No harm, though.
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Thanks Loren.
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Got a P0740 on my '01 Tip Boxster S. Haven't found the right place to get the description. TIA for any help.