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edebes

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Everything posted by edebes

  1. Thanks for referral....after viewing videos, I noticed there are some statements and conditions that do not match my symptoms. I will do the spark plug torque, inspect oil filter element, view drained oil from latest oil change, and send oil for analysis. Have ordered Engine Ear to determine if "ticking" is case related or cam cover. Will report when I have more info...Thanks to GSpence2, and Ahasi, for input!
  2. Here is a link with the ticking sound. The engine is at 81 degrees C. Please note after the rev-up, the ticking quiets down for a few seconds, then after the idle re-establishes itself, the ticking returns. Will try requested test on variocam hopefully later today. More apparent from drivers side of car, than right. Ed
  3. OK will try to use that function later today and will post...thanks for your time. Ed
  4. Loren, Jeff, and Others: Over the last two years, you have assisted me with addressing the "tick, tick, tick" my 04 986s, 3.2 engine exhibits. No success achieved.. Did thermal spring upgrade, no success. After reading more on the blog, I now have data I pulled from my Durametric software for interpretation. A review: I have a tick that gradually develops from a oil temp of 75C to 82C and after. The engine during warm-up has no issues, quiet, then when nearing 80C it begins its ticking. I also have two codes that are now present. P1325 (inlet camshaft Bank 2) and P1126 (Ox sensing lower load range, Bank 1). So, I addressed the 1325 first by reading about cam, pads, tensioners, and solenoids. The only info I could find was for the 996. Not sure if that would apply. Two items to mention is when raising the RPM slightly (100 rpm) when at operating temp, the ticking disappears and idle is slightly ill regular at cold start, then disappears. Here is the data from the Cam fields: Oil Temp: 81C (both data sets) Idle: 750 (ticking) Cam Shaft 1: 1.45 Cam shaft 2: 1.38 *Act Cam 1: 1.0 to -.5 *Act Cam 2: .01 to -.6 Spct Cam 0.00 Spct Cam 0.00 Held at 2K RPM (not ticking) Cam Shaft 1: 1.45 Cam shaft 2: 1.38 *Act Cam 1: 1.06 to -.7 *Act Cam 2: 1.00 to -.6 Spct Cam 1.00 Spct Cam 1.00 * These are averages as the values fluctuate during data collection. Any guess on what why I have the codes or the ticking? Suggested next steps to solve codes and ticking. Ed
  5. Good Day RT members: My Durametric tool done not have the ability to measure oil pressure for my year of car, so I would like to attach a oil pressure test gauge to the 3.2. What is the best port to establish a temporary connection, its location and take readings. (I believe I need the "Euro" adapter?) Is one test gauge pack better to work with Porsche, than another? I believe I still have a low oil pressure issue after updating the "thermal spring" last year. After recording the data, I will post so members can interpret. Thanks. Ed
  6. Thanks, Jeff and Loren.....just what I needed! Great to hear from both of you! Terrific forum as always! Ed
  7. Hello Jeff and other Boxster Fans: Dealing again with my 2004 3.2L (100.5k miles). Today's topic: oil pressure relief valve repair. Can someone direct me to pics regarding location of the cap I need to remove from the oil pump and how to replace the internal valve components. Also what is the list of parts needed to completely do this repair. thanks so much for your time. Ed
  8. JFP (and others) …Today I installed the new fuel pressure line to address above problem with no success. With the brand new connector snapped on the existing sending unit, gas continues to leak between the male stem and the fitting on the pressure line at modest rate as previously reported. So I thought, was it possible when the fuel pump was replaced by prior owner, the sending unit was damaged or an incorrect sending unit was attached to the new pump as part of the repair. The part number from current sending unit is 996 620 032 01. Called Autohaus in Lancaster, PA and they reported to me it is not an active number nor could they find as inactive (no listing). Did ebay search and in fact the part did show as a fuel pump for “02, 03, 04 Boxster”. If the 996 620 032 01 part is the same I have in the car now, why would an ebay one work of the same type? A-Lan also told me the correct P/N for the sending unit for my ’04 Boxster is 996 620 832 02. Can I fit this correct sending unit on the currently installed pump? Any other ideas and advice appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  9. Thanks for your reply. thie stem exiting the top of the pump area where the line attaches is solid with no cracks. as I mentioned in the above post the connector seems to move when pressurized. if I put pressure on the top of the connector, holding it in place, the leaking stops. I'm assuming the connector is bad your thoughts?
  10. Hello, Have not posted for a number of years...recently rejoined due to divorce. Good to be back on the forum. I now own a Box 2004S with six speed transmission 100 K miles. Having issues with leaky connection at fuel outlet on top of tank. I recently noticed the smell on long drives since warmer weather arrived on east coast. What I am I seeing? After removing battery and tray I see the pump pressures the hose, which forces the line connector up and away from the stem slightly and the fuel sprays and collects inside the retaining ring area. A call to Porsche dealer resulted in the part ID as a front fuel pressure line. I am told by parts this runs to the fuel filter...later research today indicates 04's have no inline external fuel filter. So does this line attach at another point under car? I guess the question is, how is this line installed? Does the tank need to be dropped some distance to fit line? Is it possible to remove bad snap fitting and fit on a new one. Is there instructions posted on this repair on the forum? Thanks in advance! Ed
  11. I am purchasing a 1988 951. I wanted to know if a LSD is stock on this year and model. If not, can one be added either after market or part from another 944? If so, how? I elevated the rear of my new car and rotated the right tire forward. The left tire did nothing. Should I assume this rear is working properly or is it dis-repair and needs new clutches? Any other tests to run to confirm my condition? Thanks to all in advance! Ed
  12. Thanks for the info. I have the part ordered from local dealer. The switch is now operating (with gentle pull on handle), so your advice is correct. Ed
  13. Hello, Members: I am having conv. top issues and have read on the forums about the Brake Lite condition. Mine works on start up but does not go on when handle is pulled. I need to replace the microswitch. Can someone direct me where I can find the info on removing the console area and how to replace the switch in question at the handle? Many thanks! Ed
  14. Loren, Can you provide me the link for instructions to remove and replace a starter in my 99 Box? Thx. Ed
  15. When I purchased my 99 Box, I only received one key with remote/alarm function. What is the process of obtaining a new key with remote/alarm function? Do I have to go to the dealership? Can I use my Durametric software to "program" a key if needed? Thx. Ed
  16. My starter is experiencing the "elephant" sound as described in other posts on this forum. I am having the AOS replaced this later this week, looks like the starter is close by at the top of the engine. Just wondering, replace the starter or just lube the problem area? If lubing is suggested, is there any information on where on the starter one is to lube and what lube to use? 99 Box: Original starter 90K miles. Thanks. Ed
  17. Oh, Yes Thanks Toolpants for the gapping info. Very helpful ! Ed
  18. Four hours and 20 minutes later, the plugs are in. The plugs made a HUGE difference. There was a measurable response in the throttle. (Changed the oil yesterday to Castrol 5W 40 synth. My filter is leaking a bit. Need to order a filter tool from Suncoast.) In fact, with the change in plugs, the ticking (coming from the exhaust manifold-driver's side) I reported in another post has quieted down to the point where it can barely be heard. I took pictures of the old plugs and hope to upload them with another post in the future. What I found interesting was how worn the old plugs were. When comparing the new and old, the old plugs had the center pin worn to an oblong shape, but very thin in width. The "arms" that reach to the center pin were 1/8 shorter (on each arm) when compared to the new plug. Can any one estimate how many miles are on my old plugs in this described condition? The color of the plugs were silver grey with lite brown spots mixed in over the center pin and arms. No oil on the threads or any areas of moist black soot There is a lot to be said for torque spec. I noticed on my 99 Box when replacing the plugs, the specs were erratic at best. Each plug had a different torque spec number, the coil pack's upper bolts were tighter than the bottom, and the oil filter case was so tight I used a 911 open-end oil filter wrench to loosen the case to spin off. With the plugs and coils all properly torqued, and the new plugs themselves, all combined to improve the car's performance in a big way, I believe. Thanks to Loren and RennTech Members for your advice and support. You gave me the confidence to DYI! Ed
  19. Thx Loren....they will go in after lunch. Ed
  20. Do the the OEM Beru spark plugs (99 Box) need the gap set or are they OK to use right from the box? Thx. Ed
  21. Loren (and other members), I had the chance to have my 99 Box up on a lift today to track down a noisy lifter issue. The noise is located on the drivers side of the engine (tic,tic,tic). What I can report is the noise is located in the area of the back pipe (the end where each of the three pipes join together) which to go toward the cat, not at the head/cam cover area. The farther you go toward the cat the louder the sound becomes. Once at the cat, the sound goes away. Is this still a lifter problem or something else? From my motorhead days, headers would become very noisy as they became weak or worn out. Can this happen to a Porsche header? What are your recommendations? Any damage to engine occuring? Thx to all for responding. Ed
  22. Loren, Sorry...correction to above info: Swepco 502 is the number. Ed
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