Jump to content

The RennTech.org community is Member supported!  Please consider an ANNUAL donation to help keep this site operating.
Click here to Donate

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)


Contributing Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by edebes

  1. Jeff, I concur. However, before I move in that direction, there are a few variables I need to address. It may be a few weeks to provide the results of the bore score scope. My purpose is I don't want to do a repair K$ range..I would rather send to Jake and have him do the entire engine and know I have all the possibles covered going forward. I appreciate your willingness to work with me on this problem and I will keep you advised.
  2. I was running DT40 until Jack Raby recommended 10w30 diesel to protect the engine from getting worse if bore scoring was the problem. So I changed oil Fall, 2019. Regardless of what oil I have used, the tapping continues. I have not used a recommended 5w50. Thoughts on this? What about the idle issue, 665 rpm is not correct when hot? Can bore scoring create a very low hot RPM?
  3. Jeff, Loren, and Mike: Here is my data for my BoxS regarding oil pressure and warm-up condition. As you will note, I observed the car for an hour and took readings over that period. Summary of results: Cold temp oil pressure was 89 psi at start-up idle (and no knocking sound) and as the engine fully warmed to 98 degrees C, and oil pressure at idle (665) dropped (at the end of the test period, 60 minutes) resulted in a reading of 17 psi with the a very loud knocking sound. The trend data shows a correlation between engine temp and oil pressure and oil pressure and rpm.
  4. Oh...one follow-up: what is the thread size and standard for the port I will be accessing?
  5. Jeff, It will be a few days until I can pull a kit together and make the test (once done I will report data...Can you ID the possible locations (schematic) of where I can "tap" in on the block? Ed
  6. Jeff, That was replaced last year upon your suggestion...unless there was an update in the last year, I used the kit purchased at the local Porsche Dealer In Lancaster PA in early 2019. Durametric does not measure oil pressure on a 986...so I need to do a manual setup. Is there a kit made-up to do this for a Porsche 986? Pedro has one to install in the dash...I just don't have the time now to do that install. I am a college professor and because of Covid19, I have to teach this summer. Ed
  7. Sorry...this is NOT my car...but has similar symptoms. I used this as an example for the discussion last year. Ed
  8. Posted last year...idle speed is 670 RPM, OT-Hot (98 degrees C). If increase in RPM happen, noise disappears....as mentioned on prior post. Ed
  9. Loren and Jeff, Thanks for the recent responses. I have additional data to share... Currently, cold start idle is 1100 RPM (+/-10 rpm), as the engine warms, the idle reduces to around 910 RPM. When the engine is at 90 degrees C (800 RPM) at full OT at 99 degrees C, the idle is at 650 RPM (+/- 10 rpm). (At 90 C, the tapping noise begins quietly, then becomes louder temp increases and the rpms fall). On the forums, correct idle is 780-800 RPMs. (If I am wrong here, please say so.) If by increasing RPMs by 20 (say 670 to 690), this quiets the tapping 95%. By my data coll
  10. Hello again Loren and Jeff! Well, the injectors are all good and not emitting a loud tapping sound, just the typical rattle injectors make. Thought it could be the AC Compressor, so I removed the drive belt and started the engine, the tapping started again at 80 C. I have isolated the sound now in the general area directly below the ac compressor. I understand this is where one of the chain tensioners resides. Further research from prior responses to this topic have the possibilities of bore scoring to worn pads. So here is where I am with this investigati
  11. Loren and Jeff....Using the advice provided last year, I am still trying to solve the tapping sound of my 986S. In review here is a brief report. Car starts fine. I have NO CELs. On cold start, there is no tapping noise. Once started and engine temp is rising, tapping starts on the left side around 180 degrees and continues to become louder as the operating temp hits (210 degrees). Now, here is where I am in my investigation: I have taken a sample of oil and sent to LN for analysis. There were no issues to report. The report had all "green" areas. I was on the phone with a Porsche vendor who
  12. Thanks for referral....after viewing videos, I noticed there are some statements and conditions that do not match my symptoms. I will do the spark plug torque, inspect oil filter element, view drained oil from latest oil change, and send oil for analysis. Have ordered Engine Ear to determine if "ticking" is case related or cam cover. Will report when I have more info...Thanks to GSpence2, and Ahasi, for input!
  13. Here is a link with the ticking sound. The engine is at 81 degrees C. Please note after the rev-up, the ticking quiets down for a few seconds, then after the idle re-establishes itself, the ticking returns. Will try requested test on variocam hopefully later today. More apparent from drivers side of car, than right. Ed
  14. OK will try to use that function later today and will post...thanks for your time. Ed
  15. Loren, Jeff, and Others: Over the last two years, you have assisted me with addressing the "tick, tick, tick" my 04 986s, 3.2 engine exhibits. No success achieved.. Did thermal spring upgrade, no success. After reading more on the blog, I now have data I pulled from my Durametric software for interpretation. A review: I have a tick that gradually develops from a oil temp of 75C to 82C and after. The engine during warm-up has no issues, quiet, then when nearing 80C it begins its ticking. I also have two codes that are now present. P1325 (inlet camshaft Bank
  16. Good Day RT members: My Durametric tool done not have the ability to measure oil pressure for my year of car, so I would like to attach a oil pressure test gauge to the 3.2. What is the best port to establish a temporary connection, its location and take readings. (I believe I need the "Euro" adapter?) Is one test gauge pack better to work with Porsche, than another? I believe I still have a low oil pressure issue after updating the "thermal spring" last year. After recording the data, I will post so members can interpret. Thanks. Ed
  17. Thanks, Jeff and Loren.....just what I needed! Great to hear from both of you! Terrific forum as always! Ed
  18. Hello Jeff and other Boxster Fans: Dealing again with my 2004 3.2L (100.5k miles). Today's topic: oil pressure relief valve repair. Can someone direct me to pics regarding location of the cap I need to remove from the oil pump and how to replace the internal valve components. Also what is the list of parts needed to completely do this repair. thanks so much for your time. Ed
  19. JFP (and others) …Today I installed the new fuel pressure line to address above problem with no success. With the brand new connector snapped on the existing sending unit, gas continues to leak between the male stem and the fitting on the pressure line at modest rate as previously reported. So I thought, was it possible when the fuel pump was replaced by prior owner, the sending unit was damaged or an incorrect sending unit was attached to the new pump as part of the repair. The part number from current sending unit is 996 620 032 01. Called Autohaus in Lancaster, PA and they reported to me
  20. Thanks for your reply. thie stem exiting the top of the pump area where the line attaches is solid with no cracks. as I mentioned in the above post the connector seems to move when pressurized. if I put pressure on the top of the connector, holding it in place, the leaking stops. I'm assuming the connector is bad your thoughts?
  21. Hello, Have not posted for a number of years...recently rejoined due to divorce. Good to be back on the forum. I now own a Box 2004S with six speed transmission 100 K miles. Having issues with leaky connection at fuel outlet on top of tank. I recently noticed the smell on long drives since warmer weather arrived on east coast. What I am I seeing? After removing battery and tray I see the pump pressures the hose, which forces the line connector up and away from the stem slightly and the fuel sprays and collects inside the retaining ring area. A call to Porsche dealer resulted in the part ID as
  22. I am purchasing a 1988 951. I wanted to know if a LSD is stock on this year and model. If not, can one be added either after market or part from another 944? If so, how? I elevated the rear of my new car and rotated the right tire forward. The left tire did nothing. Should I assume this rear is working properly or is it dis-repair and needs new clutches? Any other tests to run to confirm my condition? Thanks to all in advance! Ed
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.