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JeTexas

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Everything posted by JeTexas

  1. JeTexas
    Or you could make it an all-electric FWD car with a small gas engine in the back (or vice-versa) for generating electricity. That way you could forego the entire transmission, etc. to save weight/space for more batteries.
  2. JeTexas
    There's a company called Electro Auto in California I talked to a while back. They make conversion kits for 914s. http://www.electroauto.com/gallery/vp914.shtml However, the 911 loaded up with all those batteries would be a really heavy car. Plus, there's no A/C, which is not an option here in Houston. I've been wanting to build an electric car for a while (not out of my 996), but I've yet to find a good option.
  3. JeTexas
    I ran the Actual Values on my commute home from work. Surprisingly, the car cooperated by hanging idle for the first 20 minutes and then returning to normal. Here's a sample from each section. When the throttle percentage is 0, I was clutching and letting the car coast. When it hangs, I get triple the air mass kg/h along with generally lower Idle Air Temp Sensor and Engine Coolant Temp Sensor values (although in the complete Excel file, the hanging/regular temp values overlap some, so I don't know if that's a factor). Anybody know what this means? Are there other values I should monitor?
  4. JeTexas
    I always caution people who are on a tight budget and buying a used Porsche that these cars are not Toyotas or Hondas when it comes to maintenance costs. Everything is expensive in these cars. OEM type tires are $250+ each, the oil for an oil change is going to cost $50+. Lots of normal maintenance parts are pricey or very pricey. And these things do break a little more frequently than one would wish. If you can't afford to spend at least $1K per year on mantenance and repairs then think about buying something else. I don't mean to be negative and I love my Boxster but there is nothing worse than having a nice car that just sits in the garage because you can't afford the price of some simple repair parts. I speak from experience. When I was fresh out of school and not earning a lot of money I purchased a 914 which really stretched my budget. I owned the car for 5 years but I bet it was only driveable for 3 of those years. Very good advice. I thought I'd done my homework, but I still wasn't expecting nearly $4,000 of maintenance my first year of owning my car. However, it just so happened that the MAF failed, I needed new tires, I needed new brakes, my oil filler tube broke, my coolant hoses were cracking, time for spark plugs, etc. Hopefully year 2 won't be so expensive.
  5. JeTexas
    You might be able to find a 98-99 911 Cab for that price, but I think 2002 or newer will still be $30k plus.
  6. JeTexas
    The cranking or popping could be the tires rubbing or ... maybe ball joints?
  7. JeTexas
    I'm wondering if it is a software problem because when I come to a stop, it's like something resets and the idle drops to normal. If it was a vacuum leak or sticking throttle or pedal, it would stay at the higher RPM. Unfortunately, it's so intermittent, I can't seem to ever make it happen when I have someone checking it. It seems to be happening less and less and the symptoms are changing a bit. Now I can go three or four days without it happening and then suddenly I'll clutch and the engine will stay at whatever RPM it was at when I hit the clutch and remain there until I put it back in gear and continue to behave that way until I come to a stop. Then once I've come to a stop, it usually resets and behaves normally. I've been avoiding taking it to Porsche since the holidays had my budget so tight, but I may finally give in if I can't figure it out within another week or two. So, when are you going to try seeing if the coolant temperature sensor is causing the problem? I already pulled that connection and cleaned it as you suggested. I haven't replaced the actual sensor, but I'm assuming it's ok since the temp gauge on my dash is working correctly.
  8. JeTexas
    I'm wondering if it is a software problem because when I come to a stop, it's like something resets and the idle drops to normal. If it was a vacuum leak or sticking throttle or pedal, it would stay at the higher RPM. Unfortunately, it's so intermittent, I can't seem to ever make it happen when I have someone checking it. It seems to be happening less and less and the symptoms are changing a bit. Now I can go three or four days without it happening and then suddenly I'll clutch and the engine will stay at whatever RPM it was at when I hit the clutch and remain there until I put it back in gear and continue to behave that way until I come to a stop. Then once I've come to a stop, it usually resets and behaves normally. I've been avoiding taking it to Porsche since the holidays had my budget so tight, but I may finally give in if I can't figure it out within another week or two.
  9. JeTexas
    Without seeing a photo, I'd guess it's a connection for a CD changer. Those are round.
  10. JeTexas
    I finally got a Durametric. It didn't find a thing as far as codes. Guess I'll have to see if it's possible to test while I'm driving since that's the only time the problem happens.
  11. JeTexas
    Don't get too bummed yet. I saw somebody post a Boxster rebuild the other day that started with coolant/oil mix, and it turned out just to be a missing freeze plug in the head due to overheating caused by the water pump failing. It's still a significant teardown, but not a death sentence.
  12. JeTexas
    Stock motors are built for longevity. Anytime you tweak the engine by stroking it, adding higher compression, etc., you increase the wear and reduce the reliability -- although it may not be enough to make a difference. But my guess for long-term reliability, you'd want to go stock. You'd also have an extra $2k in your pocket for repairs. However, the X51 may be a lot more fun to drive and increase the wow and resale factor of your car. Seems like you'd be getting the benefits at a fraction of the cost. I could argue this either way. Especially since car parts are kind of a crapshoot to start with. Pull two motors off the assembly line. One may run 200,000 miles. One may have some sort of catastrophic failure at 30,000. Who knows?
  13. JeTexas
    I had a similar situation on a car I was restoring. When I took the interior apart, I find that somebody had previously replaced some trim they inadvertently ran a screw up against a power cable, which caused it to ground out to the body and blow the fuse. As RTF said, try replacing the fuses with the cigarette lighter and seat disconnected. If the fuses still blow, you've got a mystery ground to hunt down.
  14. JeTexas
    Does the Alpine have a seperate line-out plug (maybe RCA jacks) off the back? Try feeding the amp from that instead of the head unit-amplified speaker outs.
  15. JeTexas
    In the newer cars, especially push button ignitions, there is a connection between the brake pedal and starter electronics. Have you tried shifting into neutral or shaking the steering wheel a bit to see if you can coax it into starting?
  16. JeTexas
    I looked at a very similar JVC online. It had fairly good reviews, but all of the people who had bought it noted that it tended to get very hot.
  17. JeTexas
    I wish it was that simple, but no. I've checked the pedal and the throttle body, but neither is sticking. Also, when this happens, I can rev the motor and let off the pedal and the rpms will go to whatever I've revved it to and drop right back to 2000 rpm. Then, once I get under 10 mph, it drops to 800 rpm, and it will not hang when I'm at a stop.
  18. JeTexas
    On radios there are two power cables, one that goes to always-on and one that goes to accessory power. It appears that you have them both connected to accessory power.
  19. JeTexas
    Wish I had a better update, but despite all my plug cleanings, research, etc. I'm still at a loss. It seemed to be doing it less though until yesterday when it did it almost the entire commute home from work. Then it was gone again this morning. Ran into a guy who said he had a 99 Chevy S-10 that had the exact same intermittent symptom, and he never could figure it out -- ended up selling the truck after driving it that way for two years. I'm determined to solve the mystery.
  20. JeTexas
    There's so many variables, not the least of which is your driving style and the traffic where you're driving. As you got more comfortable with the car, you may have started putting your foot down harder and more often without even realizing it. Traffic in the area you drive might have gotten slower and more congested. Maybe it is time to change the air filter. Who knows?
  21. JeTexas
    Is it blowing steam that smells like coolant out of the defroster vents or is it just not working?
  22. JeTexas
    Hmmm, I thought it was the paper feed advance for the copy machine.
  23. JeTexas
    I had aftermarket urethane ground effects (Saleen) on my 87 Mustang, and they still looked great 8 years later when I sold the car. IMO fiberglass usually arrives the mostly poorly formed, needs the most prep work and has a tendency to crack. But on the other hand, it's not too hard to cut and modify and can be repaired.
  24. JeTexas
    I'm up to 103,000 miles on my 3.4 99 C2, and I've found the electronics, sensors, switches, etc. to be far more prone to failure than my motor and transmission.
  25. JeTexas
    I'm up to 103,000 miles on my 99 C2 Cab.
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