lenobleb

Hey, Last year I had some significant maintenance done on my 2000 911 Cab. The shop had to disconnect the battery to perform some of the work and when I got it the radio just displayed the ‘code’ message. I had the issue before and I remembered I was able to get the code on line. I thought I wrote it down but I was not able to find my code. I don’t drive the car often and when I do the top is usually down and the radio off. So now that spring is here I go to take the car for a ride and the battery is dead and won’t hold a charge (after 10 years the battery doesn’t owe me anything). I install a new battery and then I decide to solve the radio code issue once and for all. So I do some searching and find this thread. I record the Radio S/N and then think ‘this is probably the way I got the code the first time.’ So I go to 2010 and sure enough, my post is still there and the code did work. At least I wrote it down! Thanks Loren! You really are amazing. Barry

Hey, One real simple to check is that the floor mat is properly positioned and has not slid forward under the clutch pedal. That happens occasionally to me and it prevents the clutch from fully disengaging. Barry

Hi, The counter is for the electronic oil level monitor. The amount of time is for the level to be displayed. When the car has been sitting for some time, the oil has flowed down to the oil pan, and the level can be detected quickly. If the car has been running, and then off for just a short time, the oil level can't be detected until enough time has allowed for the oil to return to the pan, so the time can be some number of minutes. You do not have to wait at all, just turn the key on, and then to 'start'. You should monitor the oil level on a regular basis - and I prefer the dipstick. Lastly, the manual is available from the dealer if you wish to purchase one. Good luck, Barry

Hello, You are really worrying too much about this. Only a small amount of oil will remain in the engine. Not a big deal considering how much oil the engine holds. Regarding the amount to add, add 7 qts then start the engine and move the car to level ground. Wait a few minutes and add oil until the dipstick reads full. Running the engine at idle with low oil volume won't do any damage. I would not recommend running it at redline and at high G loads with low volume but running at idle for a minute won't cause any problems. Lastly, if you are really worried about the small amount of old oil in the engine just change the oil a little sooner than you normally would. Good luck, Barry

Hey, There are a number of differences between the early (99-01) and late (02+) cars. The headlights are different. The interior has a lot of improvements including glove box, trip computer, 3 spoke steering wheel, etc. The motor is the biggest difference, larger displacement and another 20 HP. When I was in the market (early spring) I wanted an 02 or newer car. I could not find one in my price range so I ended up with an 00 and I have not regretted it. Make sure you look at the interior of the early and later cars to see if that is important to you. Good luck, Barry

Hey, You will still need to paint the CF hood. The UV in sunlight will break down CF fairly quickly if it is not protected by paint or some other covering. Since you need to paint anyway, I think your best bet would be to get your hood repaired or replaced with stock and paint. Good luck, Barry

Hello, Back in March when I bought my 00 C2 Cab, I knew the windshield washer did not work. Since I only drive the car on nice days, this is not a serious problem. However, last week I decided to do a little work to see what is going on. My work was not hard, just hold the washer switch and see if I could determine what is happening. Well, I heard the pump run (good sign), but no fluid spraying out. I was able to pull one of the rubber nozzle hoses off. I tried to blow through it, but I was not able to. Is that normal or is the nozzle clogged? I then reconnected the nozzle and held the spray switch on. I heard the pump run, then a splash and I saw fluid pour from underneath the car. Tomorrow I will take the LF wheel and liner off and take a look at the tank and plumbing. I assume the tank is bad. If that is true I will get a new tank, but I need to know if I should be able to blow through the washer nozzle or not. I don't want to blow up a new tank. Thanks, Barry

Hey, I had a similar problem with my new to me 00 cab. I was all set examine the clutch switch. When I lied down to look at the switch, I saw that the floor mat had slid forward so the clutch pedal didn't go all the way down. I moved the mat back and no more problems. Barry

Hello, So I never checked the rear spoiler operation on my new to me 00 cab (purchased in March). Monday, my family and I were at the same place, and had two cars. My wife followed me home for a bit, and I asked her to see if the rear spoiler raised. I accelerated to 70 and asked her if the spoiler went up. "No spoiler" she said. I went 75, still no spoiler. I went 80 for about 15 second, still no spoiler. OK. it seems the spoiler isn't working. Today I did a few minutes search on RennTech, then started checking the car. It took about 1 minute to find the problem, and about 2 minutes to fix it. I removed the fuse box cover and saw there was no fuse in row D fuse 5. Then I saw that the fuse box was not in the proper position, it was too low in the carpeted trim piece, such that the spoiler switch was stuck with the 'down' switch continuously pressed. I remove the screws (only 3 present) so I could remove the trim piece, repositioned it properly, installed a fuse, and tested the switch. Voila, the spoiler now goes up and down. I guess some hack must have worked on the car and screwed up the fuse box location. I see signs of someone having been in there, there is a wire bundle tie wrapped in place. Now it's all good (I even put the 4th screw back in). I'll have my wife check again, but I'm confident it will work. What seems strange is that when I start the car the spoiler light illuminates, then goes out when I start to drive. I guess I'm lucky I didn't fly off the road when I took curves at 70! :) Barry

Hey, My 2000 Cab came with 'Sunny' tires. I did a little research and found they are a Chinese knock off of something (I forget which). Anyway, they must have been cheap, but they suck. They are quiet, but the grip is not very good. I can't wait until I wear them out so I can put something else on. So I don't recommend Sunny tires. Barry

Hello, Yes, that is correct. From the factory, you can open the top with the key in door (hold it to the unlock position), with the key in the ignition and the engine off, or with the engine running and the parking brake on. There are aftermarket kits that allow you to open / close the top at up to 30 mph, but I have no experience with them. Barry

Hey, This is very simple - your car is low on oil. Most likely, the shop didn't add enough oil after the oil change. Since your check with the dipstick confirms the gauge reading, you need to add at least 1/2 a quart of oil, and more than likely will need to add a full quart. There is no magic in a porsche engine, it needs oil just like every other engine. It would be good if you could add the same type and weight oil as already in the car, but any synthetic oil will do. Add the oil, drive the car, check in a 100 miles or so and make sure it's not using too much oil. Good luck, Barry

Hello, I had a similar problem in my new-to-me 2000 C2 cab. One day the car was fine, next day it was dead. In my case the battery just died. I suspect that internally is broke such that it had proper voltage (about 12.7 at rest, and not excessively charging when running) but not enough amps to turn the engine over. I was able to start the car with a simple jump pack, or by jump-starting from another car (the jump start terminals are in the engine compartment). A new battery solved the problem. I bought an Interstate from the local auto parts place that cost about $100 and was a perfect fit. Good luck, Barry

Hello, What do you plan on doing with the car? If the car has 10K track miles, I would expect that it would have a number of modifications for use on the track. i would think that the suspension would be non stock, and I would hope that there was safety gear installed as well (roll bar, race seats, harnesses, fire system, etc.). If that is true, is that the sort of vehicle you are looking for? If that is not true, and the vehicle is stock, I would wonder how hard the car has been driven on the track (or maybe the track mods were removed and the stock components re-installed). IMHO, 10K track miles would be like 100K regular miles. So adjust your value accordingly. Is there anything special about this car? Does it have records for engine / transmission / other repairs? Good luck, Barry

Hello, IMHO, if you are serious about the track, you should get a dedicated track car. The problem with a dual purpose car, one that you plan on driving on the street and driving on the track, is that it won't be real good at either. If you set it up for the track, with all the appropriate safety gear and suspension, it will be miserable on the street. And if you leave the car so it's comfortable on the street, it won't work well on the track. One solution would be to keep the cab and buy a cheap track car. This way you can have your cab, and have something that works well on the track. If you buy someone else's older track car, say an old 911 or a 944, it will work great on the track. Sure, it may not be as fast as your 996, but it will probably be just as much fun. And it will give you an easy entry into the world of club racing, etc. Good luck, Barry