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Sorry about that, I received little to no information when I bought my Porsche, so learning the lay of the vehicle's systems are still relatively new to me. The little technical information I do have, is incomplete in many instances.

Need a little help here, as the TSB isn't very clear here. See image first It references plugging the wires I just ran over by where the fuse box is into "an unused pin of multi-pin bridge plug BS 16/2 found in relay support 1." For both pins 1 and 2. I'm not sure what the multi-ping bridge plug BS 16/2 is or where relay support 1 is. Does anyone have any pictures or can point me in the right direction here? Thanks again... sorry for all the weird questions. Good thing I've stocked up on tools over the years ;)

Hmmm yea that's what I was going by, and I have a 5mm hex allen wrench but it wasn't fitting. Then i peeked inside with a flash light, and looked like they were "security" type hexes. Maybe i'm wrong ??

The Interior mirror was $150 The External mirror kit was $235 The wireing harness.... Porsche want $309 for it.

$60?? Oh... well, I wanted to go with the "Porsche" manufactured one, and I wanted the exterior mirror to dim as well. In any case, I just compared the Connectors on the old exterior mirror to the new one. On the new one there are 2 new pins which are used... 1 & 2. I also looked at the factory harness connector I have installed, and guess what... Pins 1 & 2 aren't hooked up. So... what i'm betting is, YES you need a new harness... however... I could probably splice from the pin wires, run 2 new wires alongside the factory harness, to the 2 wires by the fuse console (which are hanging from the interior mirro) and then that way I don't have to spend $309.00 on a new harness from Porsche. Porsche confirmed just moments ago... the wiring harness is a separate cost and not included in the kits.

I'm upgrading the Internal and Exterior Rear-view mirrors to Auto-Dimming. The TSB says to disconnect the battery first, then remove the seat, and disconnect the wiring harness. I need to partially remove the driver's side door sill in order to run the correct cables from the mirror to underneath the seat. The TSB mentions "Weld Point 21" under the seat... i'm not exactly sure where this is, but I have to connect a wire there as well. So far, it looks as though the door sill is held on by 3 HEX Security type bolts (not torx). Not sure what size, not sure where to get tool. Harbor Freight $7.99 Hex end to 1/4'' drive adapter, magnetic hex bit driver, hook hanging bit ('Y- design), 1/4'' hex to 1/4'' socket drive bit and 1/4'' hex wobble adapter; also includes 8 Phillips, 8 Pozi drive, 9 slotted, 4 spanner, 9 torque, 4 tri-wing, 9 hollow tip torque, 3 torque-set, 9 metric hex, 4 square, 10 SAE hex, 3 spline, 6 hollow metric hex, 6 hollow SAE hex and 3 clutch bits; Hmmm, only problem is, the holes are quite small. I know my regular 1/4' driver is too big to fit in there. It's almost as if I need a really long HEX Security bit that's small enough to fit in there.

Hmmm, ok. Well it didn't come with a new wiring harness... so is it possible the TSB just mentions installing a new wiring harness only if you need it?

Hmmm... So, now I'm unsure if I'm supossed to purchase a new Driver's side door wiring harness for the exterior auto dimming mirror or not. I purchased part # 000 044 801 03 which is the "Anti-Dazzle Mirror kit for vehicles WITHOUT memory." The kit comes with everything you except a wiring harness. However, the TSB for installing also mentions a wiring harness "for left door with maximum equipment." I was assuming the one that's there already would be compatible with this kit? Is this not the case and do I have to purchase a whole new driver's side wiring harness? Or can I just hook up to the existing one, run the cables from the interior auto-dimming mirror i'm installing as mentioned in the TSB, and it should work? Just looking for clarification. The harness the TSB mentions is an additional $430.00 so that's why I'm trying to figure this out.

I'm upgrading the Internal and Exterior Rear-view mirrors to Auto-Dimming. The TSB says to disconnect the battery first, then remove the seat, and disconnect the wiring harness. I need to partially remove the driver's side door sill in order to run the correct cables from the mirror to underneath the seat. The TSB mentions "Weld Point 21" under the seat... i'm not exactly sure where this is, but I have to connect a wire there as well. So far, it looks as though the door sill is held on by 3 HEX Security type bolts (not torx). Not sure what size, not sure where to get tool.

Drat... Now I have a new problem. I need to remove the Driver's Side door sill, and low and behold, another type of tool is required. It's not a torx bolt though. It's a Hex type pattern, only with the prong in the middle. So I need some sort of Hex tool with a hole in the middle. I have TORX ones like that but not Hex. Does anyone know the exact size I need, and what the actual tool is called so I can figure out if I can even find it anywhere? Thanks -Chris-

It's an external torx socket - I recently picked up this for about 20 bucks (had it in a couple days): http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis26280.html I figured it's a set that might come in handy with this car. -Art Thanks guys, yea actually, I found out my local "Sears" store had a set of External Torx sockets. Just got back, E-12 Fits perfect and made it easy!

So yea... got as far as the driver's seat... when I noticed "this little guy..." :huh: Went to Home Depot, Menards, and Ace Hardware... had the HARDEST time trying to explain exactly what it was I was looking for. Told them I needed a Torque type Socket, female, not like a screwdriver. Didn't matter though, they all pointed me to the direction of a standard torque type driver. First off, what size are these bolts... and 2nd off, where the heck do I get a "socket" to fit these? I was hoping to wrap up my install today, but it's almost looking as if I'll have to order it online or something. -Chris-

I found most of it... disregard. The other stuff I guessed on and was ok. Thanks!

Specifically i'm looking for information removing the: socket for the guide pin of the convertible top passenger compartment monitoring sensor side vent with main light switch and the driver's seat

Hey guys, Figured I'd post this in a different thread although it is related to the Interior Mirror upgrade. I'm looking for Technical Manual instructions for the Following: Technical Manual Group 6 Service No. 68 12 19 Technical Manual Group 9 Service No. 96 85 19 Technical Manual Group 7 Service No. 94 05 19 Technical Manual Group 7 Service No. 72 01 19 Technical Manual Group 5 Service No. 55 10 37 If anyone has this info, I would GREATLY appreciate it! Thanks! v/r -Chris-

Thanks guys! I got it off!

Ouch... Is this issue even common on an 00' Boxster S 3.2L 6-speed manual? My car has 72K on it, seems to be running very smooth and as far as I know the previous owner did not have this issue. I typicaaly only drive her during the summer, and the occassional cross-country meets. Or is this an issue only for lower-mileage type Boxsters? Gracias.

Hmm, It looks like just a pair of lock jaw pliers with rubber attachments on the end. Do you just squeeze and it releases the clips? Or do you have to twist it off? The new mirror comes with that housing, so couldn't I just use a regular pair of lock pliers?

Hey guys, I'm in the process of upgrading both the interior and exterior RearView Mirrors. I have the TSB for doing this, however, I'm not exactly sure how to remove the Interior Rearview Mirror. I've removed the "mirror" itself from the ball like housing which it made it easier to work with, however, I now need to unclip the housing somehow attached to the windshield (not the whole assembly just the housing... the new mirror seems to have a "clip" type mechanism to attach to the factory windshield mount. In any case, i'm not sure how to remove it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! v/r -Chris-

Hey guys... Another update... I went and purchased the JL TR350-CXi 's ... 2 sets to replace the factory rear speakers. BIG DIFFERENCE! However, the install took me a looonnnngggg time to finish. The 3.5" vs the 3" don't exactly fit "nicely into the 3" holes. I didn't need to drill the holes any larger (but that's because there's literally no room on the template to do so). However, I did have to seal the gaps in the template around the 2 speakers. Once that was done, I ensured no air escape was present. I also had to modify the stock wire harness since the "speaker" clips aren't the same size. This was pretty easy. Snip off the old harness, modify the clips, solder the ends back together and voila... fit nice and easy. Turned it on and there's a big difference in sound now. Not only are the speakers much louder, but they are crystal clear as well. Once I change out the main head unit and add the amps, I will need to modify the rear speakers again to route the end connection to the JL Crossovers for the rears. Still waiting on my new head unit, faceplate, HVAC adapter plate, and MB Quart fronts to arrive, everything else I have. I plan to take plenty of picutres and give a write-up on my install once it's all done. Tomorrow's project.... Cut the 1/2" Pine Wood board into replacement Door Baffles to mount the 6.5" JL ZR650-CSi woofers. I'm also debating where to place the crossovers... I'm thinking attach them to the baffle as well on the door, but I don't know about this yet. More to come... v/r -Chris-

Alright, well then, I'm gonna take her in on Monday and see if they can fix it... hopefully it doesn't cost me a fortune ;)

So here's an update... I filled the Resovouir to the top. No leaks, the temp light doesnt come on until after the engine has warmed up. It blinks at a consistant slow pace. The engine fans come on. I'm really stumped on this one... If the presurization isn't right, and there's an air pocket or something could this come on? I'd hate to have to bring it to the dealer since the one by me is in an uber rich area and charges a boat load. I'm just trying to get to the bottom of the problem... it doesn't seem to be affecting the performance of the car, or any other problems I can find. If there isn't a problem, it should just go off right? I shouldn't need to reset the computer or anything? Thanks

I guess that's what i'm trying to find out, is if any "parts" such as a new faceplate need to be obtained... where do I obtain it from? Thanks!

Well I still can't really start on this project until after I figure out how to move the HVAC controls... still need help here.

Since I don't have the stock radio installed anymore, and i'll be removing the side panels from the doors and disconnecting the battery, do I still need a radio code? I'm not even sure what the radio code is or how it's used on this car? Anyone have an idea?