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usaf-lt-g

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Everything posted by usaf-lt-g

  1. BTW.... has anyone succesfully got the anti-dazzle rearview mirror to work? I followed all the procedures in the TSB, but it just doesn't seem to be getting power, or not powering on. Unless there's something here I'm completely missing? Does it have to be activated by a PIWIS or something? It just makes no sense to me why it wouldn't be working, when I KNOW all the connetions are correct. (There's only 3.... The Blue / RED which goes to the welding point of all the Blue/Red wires under the drivers seat. The Brown, which goes to the back of the relay assembly, where all the other Browns are. And the Orange / Black, which goes to where all the other orange/black connections are on the back of the relay assembly). There must be some "hidden step" I'm missing here somewhere.... ???? :huh:
  2. Sure enough! Accidently jarred loose one of the female spades from the Fuel Pump Relay! Problem fixed ;) Thanks guys!
  3. I don't have my durametric cable on me to check. I'm hoping my dad can bring it up to me. But, that's what I was thinking, that possible the fuse pump relay is knocked out or shorted out some how. How do I check it? How do I remove the relay for that matter??
  4. Just an update, I'm currently checking the fuses under the drivers side. Not sure if I should check somewhere else too. Looking for some other troubleshooting advice here... Or if someone has a hunch on what I might have disconnected or something?
  5. I'm in a real bind here. And not sure what I did... I was trying to troubleshoot the anti-dazzle rear view mirror, and now the car won't start!!! I forgot to disconnect the battery before I did any work, but here's the following steps I took. 1) Removed Driver's Seat, disconnected wire harness 2) Removed fuse box carpeting 3) removed screws from relay bay under the dash. 4) Turned relay to the back side (exposing where wires are) 5) Using TSB 6827, tried fooling with the wires from the anti-dazzle mirror on back of Relay Socket 28 and Relay Socket 11. 6) Couldn't figure anything out, put it all back together. 7) Reconnected Seat, put the support bay back on etc. 8) Confirmed all lights, and everything else worked fine. 9) Tried starting car.... just cranks, but never turns over, as if it's not getting any fuel. What the heck did I do???
  6. Yes this can be done. You'll need to take trim piece around the DSP module off, and put that on the tray. And take the one from the tray and put that on the DSP module. You may need to cut a couple of the plastic wire wraps around the harness to extend the length, but it should reach.
  7. Maybe I'm misinterpretting what you're trying to remove, but it sounds like you're talking about removing the rear storage compartment. This is really quite easy: 1) Put the top in service mode (i.e. 2" to 3" from the latch location you would normally use to lock the top in place) This is the position where the rear cover lid is in the up position. 2) Go to where the lid is (that's now in the up position) and find the wire cables attached to the rear of the cover (they're black and on each side). Pull the top of that cable off the snap in ball joint. It's easiest if you use two hands and using your thumbs pry it up and off the ball joint. It should come off relatively easily. 3) Unhook the grayish like fabric which is held in place by two little plastic slide in like plastic clips. It just slides out of those clips. 4) Now that the back of the top is completely free, push it all the way up (essentially your folding the plastic window up towards the top) and then drape the extra grayish fabric over the top. 5) Congratulations, you now have complete access to remove the storage / speaker box.
  8. Just an FYI. I had the same issue when I first got the car. The issue was a combination of a synchro and a bent fork. I contacted vertexauto out of Florida (i'm in Illinois mind you), and I removed the trans myself and drained it. I put it on a palatte, and Vertex shipped it freight free of charge to their shop. $1000 later and I literally, all new parts installed in my trans, and a new clutch, and a seal. That was probably the best money I ever spent. Drives and shifts like it's brand new. Never had an issue since.
  9. Had the same problem some time ago. There's a New Style coolant cap that Porsche released. Had to do with the pressure in the system. The new cap fixes this issue. I highly suggest you purchase the $5 part from Sunset.
  10. I can't remember if the 2001 is the one with the redesigned plug tubes or not. Someone else can verify. On my 2000 Boxster S, I changed the spark plugs, Splug Plug tubes, and Spark Plug Tube O-Rings all at once. I can't remember what year Porsche redesigned this, but after a certain year, they did away with the spark plug tubes and o-rings. The tubes and o-rings are cheap, and If you're model uses them, I suggest you replace ALL of them when you do your spark plugs. Again, Sunset Imports has the best prices on these replacements. They're really quite easy to change out. Jack up the car on one side Remove the rear tire (you may also want to remove the inner tire shield shroud for better access... up to you) Remove the spark plug pack / coil Insert a spark plug removal socket with long extension Wratchet out the old spark plug Take the butt end of an old screw driver and stuff it the spark plug tube until it's snug Grab hold of the shaft end of the screw driver with a pair of lock-jaw pliers and pull it out at an angle The Plastic spark plug tube with old o-rings should pop out with it. Lightly lubricate the new o-rings and put them on the new plastic spark plug tube insert the new plug tube assembly using your fingers, press it in until it's flush (you'll know when it's flush) insert the new spark plug wratchet in the new spark plug re-connect the spark plug pack / coil (UNTIL YOU HEAR IT CLICK! If you don't hear it click, you haven't pressed it all the way on, and you'll throw some misfires on the engine) Repeat for the rest of the spark plugs on this side. Lower the car, and repeat steps above on the opposite side. Congratulations... you're done. :)
  11. As far as I know, that price hasn't changed. I just did an oil change 2 weeks ago, and that was the price. Sunset has always been my #1 place for parts including oil. In my opinion, it's MUCH better to get the 0W40 over the 10W40, especially when you can get it for this cheap. Give them a call, it's worth it. :sunset:
  12. Just an FYI. But if you can wait a few days to have the oil shipped to your house. You can get 9 qts of Mobil 1 0W/40 Synthetic from Sunset Imports for $44 total. I paid $4 a qt from them.
  13. I had this issue a few times when I upgraded to the Litronics. I found that the actual issue was that the driver's side headlamp wasn't actually "locked" into place. I was using the factory headlamp tool to lock it, however, that tool tends to get rounded around the edges and wasn't really locking the light, even though I thought it was. I just used one of my ratchets with an extension and attached one of my sockets to do the trick (I think 5mm, but maybe i'm wrong). You have to turn it extra hard (I actually thought I was going to break it), but then it finally locks and snaps it in place.
  14. I'd be very interested in this as well. I think the Matte finish is much more appealing.
  15. Off the top of my hand, I believe the cats and O-2 Sensors are different. Simply swapping in a 3.2 Exhaust I don't believe will work. I "believe" (and I could be wrong) you'd have to also run new wires for new O-2 sensors. In addition, the MAF may need to be re-mapped as well as the ECU. If I'm not mistaken. the 2.7 has 2 O-2 sensors, whereas the 3.2 has 4.
  16. Yes, that's correct, MY02, egas. Sorry I forgot to mention. It's hard to tell from the pic, but that "looks like" the Y-Tube you will also likely need to replace. I believe the part # is 996 107 146 00. But I may be wrong. That needs to be disconnected. See this pic:
  17. What year make and model of your car is this? I'm wondering if your car is an E-GAS model or not.
  18. For those wishing to partake in replacing the speakers on the BOSE base box. I've measured the dimensions. The total Diameter of the BOSE Woofers (including the outer ring basket) = 5.875" (inches) The actual speaker itself (minus the basket) is really only = 4.75" (inches) However, there is still some room to play with. The 2 Tweeters (or mid-range? I'm not really sure what to call them) Meausre out to be = 2.75" (inches) and fits in a snug square box. I got the dimensions of the Focal 5" WS 13 sub-woofers. They measure 5.921" (inches) in diameter including the screw holes. And 3.52" (inches) deep. Plenty of room to work with there. I propose the following. Using a dremel, I'm going to remove the 2 tweeter boxes... there's plenty of room where those boxes fit, and plenty of room to fit a bigger mid-range speaker. I'm then going to cut a speaker ring and place it on the inside of the factory tweeter grille that will fit my JL Audio TR-3.5" mid-ranges currently in my speaker box. I'll glue that to the frame. Then i'll simply plug and play the Focal 5" WS 13 sub-woofers for the factory ones, and reverse the polarity if necessary. Keep in mind, the rest of the system is already done, so I'll wire the 2 new JL Audio 3.5" speakers to the factory rear speaker harness (since that's already connected as my rear channel and properly crossed over). And then the woofers will have private wiring run to the other JL 300 / 2 amp and tune as appropriate. If all goes well, this should be a successful setup, and I anticipate it sounding clear and crisp.
  19. I don't think standard ramps would allow you to get the rear of the car high enough to clear the top of the transmission when you go to slide it out from under the car. Regards, Maurice. I made some pretty high custom ramps, so I'm not so concerned about the clearance needed to drop the transmission, as I am having the car on ramps, removing the rear cross members, and having the thing drop from lack of suspension support. I remember reading somewhere that if you are removing the rear cross members the car needs to be supported by jack stands on the standard jack points. But maybe I'm "mis-informed" and concerning myself over nothing? I guess i'm looking for some verification here. Also, I'm assuming that "yes" I need to drain the engine since I'm replacing the RMS and don't want oil spilling out. But i'm still not 100% on if I need to drain the trans as well.
  20. One other question I thought of in addition to the draining question above. Can I remove the rear cross members and do the job with the car on ramps? Or will I still need to support the under body with jack stands?
  21. I received my new engine support bar yesterday, and plan to start some work after today. Just curious, because the books I have don't mention this anywhere in the documentation. Probably a no brainer, but do I need to drain the transmission and the engine oil before I start dissassembling? Also, if I do need to drain the transmission, what's the correct procedure for re-filling it? Thanks!
  22. I love the industrial strength velcro. I used it for my amps in the front trunk.
  23. Well you're going to have a couple of other challenges where wiring is concerned. #1, you're going to have replace the OBC, which i'm assuming you got with the new engine yes? I'm not 100% positive on this or not, but the instrument gauge cluster you have in your car, and that of the cluster found in a boxster S are 2 different versions... I believe it's similar to people who have wanted to swap in the 996 cluster in their boxsters, but I'm not 100% positive. That may be something you need to research more. The new 3.2 L OBC will be configured to a 3.2L's specs. However, because you have bored the engine, you will likely need to find an indy shop capable of "tuning" the engine. The MAF may need to be re-mapped among other things to fully take advantage of the performance specs. The A/C controls (HVAC) control unit should be plug and play, I don't see there being anything different between these modules. If the car has not been equpped with the "third radiator" already... you'll definately also want to make sure that gets installed as well. The 3.2S comes stock with 3 radiators, with the third in the middle. Has the car already been fitted with a Boxster S front bumper? Not sure if it's 100% necessary to put the S bumper on, however, that particular bumper has an air opening for cooling of the third radiator. Obviously the lines also have to be run to this radiator. While we're at it, we might as well discuss the brakes and suspension. The S uses bigger rotors (cross-drilled) on both the fronts and rears, as well as larger calipers and pads among other things. It "may" be easier to purchase the "BREMBO" big brake kit, rather than trying to find Boxster S parts for all of it. You'll get the same if not better performance out of them, and it may cost less in the long run than having to hunt down all the parts. Just my thoughts there. The suspension... the rear and front sway bars are more robust than a standard boxster, along with the linkage. These can be swapped out, and should help with overall stability. Since neither the S or the standard boxster were really designed for a larger engine like the 3.4 (at least on your year and model you're working on), and considering you're specing the car out for race... I would also suggest a more heavy duty engine mount. There are articles on how to swap in the 996 engine mount, which i believe would suit your purpose. There are some aftermarket ones that are out there, however, I have heard bad reviews on them and them causing more problems rather than fixing them. As for the ABS, I'm not entirely sure as to the differences, someone else would need to chime in to give you some sound advice there. One other thing you really should consider... again, with the intent of "racing" in mind. Replace the factory 3.2S AOS (Air Oil Separator) that's on the engine with larger more robust MotorSports AOS. It's a 2 compartmental true AOS as opossed to the factory ones that come on both the non-S and S engines, and it's meant for higher G-Forces (especially on cornering). Last time I checked, Sunset Imports can get the MotorSports AOS (which is a special Porsche order item) for $150, which isn't too bad all things considered. Hope this helps. cheers
  24. Believe it or not... the JL ZR650 6.5" woofers I have in the doors, actually put out some "decent" bass. However, in my opinion, it's still not as full of a sound as it should be. I don't plan to "blast off the moon" with bass, but the goal is to make a well-balanaced high-end system capable of producing a full sound even with the top down. Right now the highs and mids are crystal clear with the top down at highway speeds. But the lower sounds are still much to be wanted from the system. I've tuned, re-tuned, and re-tuned some more to get the most out of the speakers I have already, but again... there's still a gap missing in the sound spectrum and I want it to maintain the "factory look" but with the high-end audio.
  25. From what I have gathered, it is possible that the original bose subs are ~2 ohms each, but are wired in parallel (as a single channel), giving ~1 ohm impedance for the pair, which would be too low of impedance for most any aftermarket amplifier. But if this is true, you could simply rewire the subs inside the enclosure from parallel to serial, then giving a total impedance of ~4 ohms. Perfect to be driven by an aftermarket amplifier (mono subwoofer channel), without having to do any speaker rewiring inside the car. If you wanted to rewire the car, then you could run them in stereo, each off of their own channel, at 2 ohms each. However, since I've never had the stock bose rear speakers, I am unable to verify the wiring or impedance of the original speakers. This is just speculation on what I have been able to gather. Yea I have no idea what the impedenance is on the subwoofers. But I'm more than 90% on replacing these anyways with something aftermarket, ensuring ~4ohms. There's no WAY I plan on frying my high-end amps.
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