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usaf-lt-g

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Everything posted by usaf-lt-g

  1. usaf-lt-g
    Nice looking ramps, and a really nice looking garage!! Thanks! Yea the clearance is great for working under the car, I was able to get under there and change the fuel filter in the middle of the car very easily! Also, yes... I love my garage :) I had it professionally done last summer. I'm a HUGE fan of the slatwall which goes around my entire garage and makes wall storage very easy! The floor is also a really nice added bonus. Spill some oil? No problem, just spray with a hose and go :) The only thing I regret.... not putting in a lift lol :) Next house... next house... Just have to convince the wife :) :)
  2. usaf-lt-g
    Also just an FYI.... these really aren't all the heavy. Est. 30lbs a piece or so. Completely able to pickup and move. I'll probably end up taking on a couple of handles just for easier carry. I have hanging brackets on the wall that allow me to hang this stuff pretty easily though.
  3. usaf-lt-g
    Hey guys, So I just called over to Sunset Imports to get a price idea on what it would cost to replace all 4 rotors and front and rear pads for my 00 Boxster S. Curious if this is pretty much the same pricing and replacement across the board, and just wanting to make sure the quote they gave me and the replacement parts are all necessary. He said for the Front and Rear, the techs their recommend also replacing the caliper bolts, pad dampners, the spring kit. Said the Front Rotors with new bolts, dampners, springs, pads, came to $517.09 The Rear Rotors with new bolts, dampners, springs, pads came to $445.12 He also said that if my brake indicator light wasn't going off (which it isn't) that I can probably re-use the sensors without any problems and don't need to replace them. Total Quote: $962.21 Does that seem about right?
  4. usaf-lt-g
    Here's the completed pics.
  5. usaf-lt-g
    Nice, Yep, I did the 45 degree on my miter and it made it a helluva lot easier to backup, drive up onto. Worked like a champ. After about halfway through construction of the first ramp, I did notice that the 2x dimenisonal was only about 1.5" thick, and the 10" wasn't a true 10" :) I was a bit aggrivated with that, thought maybe I had purchased the wrong wood... BUT.... lo' and behold.... it worked just fine. I brought my camera which is downstairs in the parking garage right now... but I will post my finished pics later today :) Funny thing, I don't know WHY I never thought of this before. I was able to do my oil change EASILY and I was also able to FINALLY change out my fuel filter in the middle bottom of the car which I've been meaning to do for a Looonnnggggg time. My wife came out about halfway after I had the large plastic protection piece disconnected luckily... so I was able to ask her to hand me a phillips screwdriver :) Was pretty easy for me, similiarily, I'm 5'10" 172lbs.
  6. usaf-lt-g
    So I've been doing a lot of research on ramps for my car, looking up the various types, sports ramps, pricing etc..... when it hit me.... HOW HARD CAN IT POSSIBLY BE TO MAKE MY OWN STINKING RAMPS!!!! Why spend $200 + dollars on quality ramps, when you can make the same thing with basic materials and tool knowledge, that is JUST as sturdy (if not MORE sturdy) that FITS your oversized (and probably over-priced) tires, and that is LOW profile enough to get the job done.... all for under $30!!!! Enter in.... (drum roll please)... my DIY Porsche Ramps design. With some basic lumber, a tape measure, some good wood screws, a drill, and a circular saw (or a handsaw if you really want).... ALL of this can be yours in about 2 hours or less. I've drawn up a little schematic for your own personal viewing pleasure. I plan to take some pictures this weekend to show you these babies in action. ENJOY!!!!
  7. usaf-lt-g
    Where I work we have an enclosed garage. And my car is parked in my home garage at night. If I go to work on a sunny day, I put my "red-clip-in" and lock up anything valuable, and leave the top down. That being said, I'm also conscience of the area i'm driving in as well. For example, my parents live in a really nice town with no worries, but it neighbors a "not-so-nice" town. When I first got my P, I made the mistake of driving into the "not-so-nice" town to meet a friend for lunch with the top-down. Came outside, and some "not-so-nice" people decided to spit all over the inside and outside of my car. They also took a bat to the front-end bumper of my car. So yea... good times with all of that.
  8. usaf-lt-g
    Just curious if there are any options or possibilities of updating the front Boxster S bumper to the new 2nd gen 987. Also curious about the rear fenders to the new 2nd gen rear fenders (vents). I really like the styling of the new LED type fog / turn / daylight running lights on the 2nd gen 987s. Just wondering if anyone's attempted this and est. cost of something like this.
  9. usaf-lt-g
    Hi Petee c! Good to hear you were able to get that Box S! Sorry I couldn't help ya out with that out before. Actually, I had a similar problem when I bought my S, although the issue was in 2nd as compared to 3rd. The issue I had was actually related to the 2nd gear "Fork" in the transmission, which needed to be replaced and fixed. Rather than spend a HUGE deal of money on the issue, I ended up dropping the transmission myself in my garage, and then contacted vertex automotive (www.vertexauto.com). They confirmed that the issue was probably a fork. Vertex then used a freight company which came directly to my house, packaged the trans on a palatte, and shipped it for free to their office in Florida. In addition I asked and requested they send me a new clutch and seal ring. They ended up replacing all the forks, and I received my trans back in about 2 weeks. All-in-all I spent about $1200, but it was well worth it. Drives just like it was brand new, and no more issues. That was about the only thing I've had to do on my boxster that was a little pricy... but again... well worth it. If it were your motor mounts, you'd have some deffinate vibration and clunking feeling at idle, and at low RPMs. It "might" be a motor mount.... but i'm leaning towards a fork problem. Could be a combination of both though. Just my 2 cents.
  10. usaf-lt-g
    Believe you me... the thought of a scissors lift has come up as a thought in my mind before. However, the big disadvatage for me, is working directly under the middle of the car... which is where the fuel filter is located. Heck at this rate... I might as well just get a normal 2 post lift, but i don't have the room for that either.... Nah, next house I get i'll be getting a lift for sure. But for now... i need some recommendations for something more practical like some ramps. I'm not planning to drop the engine or tranny anytime soon.
  11. usaf-lt-g
    What about ramps? Are there any good suggestions for ramps for the car? I'd be looking for a set of 4 ramps that I could easily place the car on and work under the car. I'd like to replace the fuel filter and oil more easily which is why I'm looking for something like this.
  12. usaf-lt-g
    I disagree... If you replace the factory intake with the EVO, it is true you probably won't expect any performance gains, and that is because the ECU is still mapped to a factory setting. However, if the ECU is re-programmed to accept the tune (preferably with a combo Intake / Exhaust package). You can expect dyno'd performance gains between 8 - 25 HP depending on the model, and modifications done to the vehicle. Sorry, I can't agree with that statement. 25HP - not without exhaust changes too (and even then a stretch). Yea, I was meaning that 25HP is probably more geared towards an INTAKE + Full exhaust (not just a muffler) but Headers, high-flow cats, lighter exhaust etc. Still though.... you'd have to have your ECU re-programmed just to take advantage of it all. I don't think you'd be gaining a lot unless you tuned the ECU. And.... you may actually lose torque in the mid-range. Even with a dyno you need to mix and match to gain power and not lose torque. Agreed... very true. Ahh the advantages and disadvantages of the age old air / exhaust modifications....
  13. usaf-lt-g
    So I've been trying to find a set of jack stands that already have adapters fitted to them for use with the boxster factory jack points. But I'm not having much luck. Preferably, I'd like to find some "stands" that I can either pump with air, or have the hydraulic capability (like a bottle jack) that would be sufficient and safe as jack stands, but that fit the actual factory jack points. Anyone know of anything out there? I don't really feel like buying "hockey pucks" and making a make shift stand... i want something of a quality engineered product. Ideas?
  14. usaf-lt-g
    I disagree... If you replace the factory intake with the EVO, it is true you probably won't expect any performance gains, and that is because the ECU is still mapped to a factory setting. However, if the ECU is re-programmed to accept the tune (preferably with a combo Intake / Exhaust package). You can expect dyno'd performance gains between 8 - 25 HP depending on the model, and modifications done to the vehicle. Sorry, I can't agree with that statement. 25HP - not without exhaust changes too (and even then a stretch). Yea, I was meaning that 25HP is probably more geared towards an INTAKE + Full exhaust (not just a muffler) but Headers, high-flow cats, lighter exhaust etc. Still though.... you'd have to have your ECU re-programmed just to take advantage of it all. I don't think you'd be gaining a lot unless you tuned the ECU.
  15. usaf-lt-g
    I disagree... If you replace the factory intake with the EVO, it is true you probably won't expect any performance gains, and that is because the ECU is still mapped to a factory setting. However, if the ECU is re-programmed to accept the tune (preferably with a combo Intake / Exhaust package). You can expect dyno'd performance gains between 8 - 25 HP depending on the model, and modifications done to the vehicle.
  16. usaf-lt-g
    Interesting... yes I'd be curious to find out what the findings are on these, or if I should just stick to the OEM mount and replace.
  17. usaf-lt-g
    Thanks for the info guys, I'm going to tackle the issue myself. My next question was going to be "how are the aftermarket" mounts, since the factory ones are prone to failure between 30 - 45k. I was thinking, I may go the route and replace the bushings with some aftermarket ones I saw. I know Cheetah sells one: http://www.cheetahonline.com/products/c8036.html So does this site: http://www.bradrobertsag.com/product/CHAS-...gine_Mount.html and he also carries a trans mount: http://www.bradrobertsag.com/product/CHAS-...ans_Mounts.html I'm curious about how much "extra" vibration we're talking about. Like if I'm going to be getting a massage the whole time like running over a waterboard road ;)
  18. usaf-lt-g
    I take it you need to place the hydraulic jack underneath part of the engine to support it, while you remove one of the mounts? Same procedure with tranny if doing the tranny?
  19. usaf-lt-g
    Hey guys, So i noticed sometimes when I'm at idle, i can feel a slight vibration every now and again from the engine. Feels like a motor mount might need replacing. Having never even looked at where the motor mounts are on the car, on a scale of 1-10, how difficult is it to replace a motor mount with no access to a lift? Estimates on time to complete? Etc? I was looking in my bentley manual, but couldn't really find a great deal on the subject (unless I missed it). Just curious what everyone elses' experience is. Thanks!
  20. usaf-lt-g
    Interesting.... I have the 3 piece trim surround on my Boxster. And all though this is an older picture (I painted the trim with a flat black), I've been trying to figure out a way to use on of those cup holders, as shown being used on the 1 Piece Horseshore shaped trim. Does anyone know if the 1 piece Trim with the cup holder can be fitted to a box with a 3 piece? Another option I was thinking... what about the gap I have at the bottom of the unit? Is there anything that can be fit there?
  21. usaf-lt-g
    Exactly what i bought the car for, for FUN. Thanks for the response.
  22. usaf-lt-g
    Oh I'm sorry, apparently you have an issue with my signature as well? Pardon me while I "kindly" shove the pen I wrote it with... up your tight ***! Let me guess, you're the type who thinks taking a porsche to a drag strip "is a disgrace to the car" and that owning one, really "says something about your character..." No one "thinks your cool" cause you own a 987S. And i'm sorry... but that blonde you think is looking at you cause you think you're hot **** driving around... nope she's laughing at your arrogance. MMMM MMMMmmmm, this IS a tasty burger.
  23. usaf-lt-g
    Give me a break, there's seriously no one with useful information? I mean how does this help? I'm not talking about a street race, and seriously? "pink slips?" What kind of a crappy comment is that? The question was a legitimate question. Did I ever SAY I was planning to rip the car to shreds, and over torque the thing?? We're talking about a track drag strip. Flat and smooth. If anything I want to know how the car will perform against the standard OEM 1/4 mile time speeds. Is it slower, meaning there's something I should look at? Is it faster possibly running lean? I'm not RACING anyone. People who are racing these things around a loop track, are giving their cars MORE wear and tear then someone taking their car to a timed drag strip. I seriously can't believe what crappy comments i'm getting from you guys... grow up!
  24. usaf-lt-g
    Ok great... so what you're telling me is... I should pass? Don't even bother unless I feel like breaking something?
  25. usaf-lt-g
    There's a brand new clutch already installed, and no one pink slips. This is just a fun day to get in a little track time.
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