usaf-lt-g

Thanks for the info. Thats exactly the intent I have. I already got the carfax report, and I plan to call the original dealer on Monday to ask about the service stamps. Curious, how exactly did you go about recreating the option sticker?

I agree Loren... ;) again, big fan of Sunset. I'll conact them and find out what a complete set costs. $83 total for Manual, Warranty, Service, CDR-220 Manual, and Case. Not too shabby, beats anything off e-bay for sure.

I agree Loren... ;) again, big fan of Sunset. I'll conact them and find out what a complete set costs.

Personally, I'd recommend a 3.4 engine swap. But there's tons of info out there for other engine swaps, re-builds, etc that would probably cost less and save you some benjamins and some clevelands ($1000 bills, but I don't think they make these anymore).

Here's a question I should probably know the answer to, but never really thought about it till now. My 00' Boxster S didn't come with any original manuals or books. I've seen mention of people getting "stamps" by the dealership etc. In keeping up with "things to purchase" to enhance the everyday "Porsche owning." I wanted to purchase the owner's manual and keep it in the car. Is there some special "Log Book" in addition to this that I can purchase and take to the dealership if I ever need to that records the stamped service log by Porsche, or some other "official" book to track these sorts of things?

Hey guys, I came across this article today: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=12195 Which shows that you can use the FOB key head from the newer GT key and swap out the old style 986 FOB. However... the pictures aren't there which show how to do this, and it looks as though there's some modification necessary to attain this. I want to replace my key, and get a 2nd key as well, but want to update the look of it. Was wondering if anyone has the pics for how this can be done. Thanks!

If you are lucky enough that the IMS bearing has not totally failed (i.e., that the shaft has not shifted enough to allow the chains to jump off and then have the valves hit the pistons as they are going up, etc.), AND if you are "lucky" enough to find that you have a single-row IMS bearing, instead of what should be in there because it's a MY 99, then you can replace the bearing without engine tear down. You will still have to remove the transmission in any event. You can then remove the IMS flange and inspect the bearing to see how badly it may have failed. If you find the double-bearing the engine must be torn down to replace. Take a look at this very informative video by Charles Navarro of LN Engineering and Jake Raby of Flat 6 Innovations for a great overview of what happens to these bearings: It is my understanding that Porsche does not sell the bearings by themselves, but only in conjunction with a complete Intermediate Shaft. LN Engineering sells a retrofit kit with a severe duty ceramic bearing and a beefier support stud for about $600, but again this is only feasible if you have a single-row bearing setup. Keep us posted. Regards, Maurice. Interesting, MY00 S I "believe" is still running smooth at 82k miles with little issues other than some chips on the front bumper, and a couple of minor "interior" plastic pieces I need to replace. What I would be interested in, is if there's an actual "Sound Clip" of "what to listen for" if the IMS bearing is going bad or not. I realize this would probably have to be a pretty high bitrate sound clip in order to capture the sound acurately. But I think it would help people deduct whether or not they may be experiencing this issue before it's completely too late. Second, I'm wondering if that retrofit kit, or if there's some other solution for "preventative" maintainence on MY00 S, is a relatively "simplex" fix. I'm HUGE on preventative maintainence, and always try to stay up-to-date with the latest "intel" on newer "beefier" parts that fix "known issues" or "potential engine killers" for the DIY'er. Although I can't say I have the "means" to drop the engine and do a complete re-build. If we're talking about a fix, that allows me to drop just the transmission while leaving the engine all hooked up, to install a bearing and maybe replace the RMS while I'm down there... for a beefier (bulletproof) IMS bearing... well then sir, that's right up my alley.

Anyone know what kind of wheels these are?

All in all how much installation time did that require and how much $$$ did you end up spending? I'd like to upgrade my speaker setup eventually, but it looks like a serious and costly undertaking. For my entire setup, I did the install myself, here's what I paid for the parts: JL ZR650-CSi - $440 MB Quartz PVI-210 - $140 JL TR350-CXI (for Rear Deck) 2 sets - $45 a set - $90 total JL 300/4 Amp - $249 JL 300/2 Amp - $229 Porsche Avic / Alpine Head Unit Installation Kit - $150 Alpine IVA-w505 with P1 Navigation / Bluetooth Unit - $1099.95 JL Audio XC-PCS4-2B - 4AWG Premium Power Connection Wiring Kit for 2 Amps - I paid $89 for the kit with tax, but it was at a place by me going out of business... JL Audio Speaker Wire - 16AWG roll of 100ft - $20 1 Sheet of 3/4" Oak Plywood - $18 1 Bulk Pack of Dynomat Extreme (enough to cover both doors no prob, and plenty for other applications) - $54 I also got the XM adapter, and Alpine Imprint2 Audio Processor, but that's optional stuff - $150 for it all Some other items you'll need that I already have from my tool collection: An electric Jigsaw, or Table Router to cut the door speaker templates A good drill with plenty of bits, I recommend a good battery drill with plenty of torque, but electric works too 1 Canister of Clear Silicone Industrial Stength Velcro Your trusty Bentley Service Manual (big help for wiring diagrams) All forms of tools, metric sets: torx bits, hex bits and sockets, wratchets, phillips screwdrivers, a butane pocket sized soldering iron with fine tip, rosin core solder, flux, wire caps, wire ties, a couple six packs of beer ;), All in all from start to finish on everything, at least 3 days of good solid work. I tackled each section as a project and called it a day... a little bit at a time. All in all let's see... Major stuff listed above - $2728.95 + tools and supplies you'll need (let's estimate for some decent tools assuming you have none) - $250 + labor (i did it myself, but figure in some guy's rate of $35 / hr) - 8 hours per 3 days - 24 hours - $840 So worst case scenario - $3818.95 :) CA-CHING! B)

Hmmm checked out that nexen tire for the new rims i'm going to put on my Box S. 19" Sport Edition Cup 4 19x8.5 front, 19x10 back. Recommended Tire size for the front are 225/35ZR19 and 265/30ZR19 for the back. Unfortunately, doesn't look like Nexen has a tire for the front fitment. I've been looking at the B/F Goodrich g-Force TA KDW/2 tires. They're ultra agressive looking, and good performance. Problem is.... they cost a fair buck ;)

Are you hearing the motor click when you hit the release on your fob? If so, then it's just hte cable that needs replaced not the whole motor. Don't throw the baby out w/ the bathwater so to speak plus I'm sure the motor is quite $$$. Yea the motor works, but from the sounds of it, you have to replace the whole thing and you can't get just the cable. I can't imagine the motor being THAT much... but who knows... i've been wrong before ;)

Hey that'd be GREAT! If you know the part #(s) to order to that would help. What did it run you through Sunset?

Hmm anyone know if Sunset can get that Motorsports AOS and any other additional parts necessary? I'm almost tempted to install that one instead.

Ok thanks guys! That narrows it down for me. I'll try the "lug" fix first (if i can find the parts) home depot's website doesn't seem to carry that part on it's online website, but ya never know. Otherwise, I'll just order a new motor. Appreciate the input!

Lol, oh yea good point! :) Forgot about that!

Thanks Loren, I'd clear them, and see if they come back. I'm guessing I have a bit of a "shoddy" interior sensor, it's been intermittent for some time, but just wanted to clarify.

Hmm... ok, so then looks like I have 2 problems. The emergecny cable needs replacing, which I am guessing has no relevance to why the "remote control trunk release button" wouldn't be opening it. So then... if the latch operation works fine which we know is the black bowden cable. And when I hit the trunk release button, I hear an electrical motor like i usually do, which pops the trunk (but now is not). I'm still confused where the real culprit is then? :unsure:

Ran the ol' Durametric software today to check a couple of things. Everything looked good except for the Alarm section. Got 3 codes. 25 W lead Status: not present Frequency Counter: 1 33 Interior Sensor faulty Status: not present Frequency counter: 2 60 Cetral locking limit position Lock not reached status: not present Frequency Counter: 4 The top one looks like it may be a fluke? I dunno... the other 2.... not really sure about. I'm basically locking the vehicle with the key now (non-remote), sometimes I get one chirp, other times I don't get any chirps.

Hmm, Ok... Well, I pulled back all the trunk liner to expose the locking mechanism and cables. The "black" bowden cable is still in tact working fine. The white one, that i'm point at is the one that's busted, I already emoved the white plastic retaining cip that sits below the "back" bowden cable. Unlike the black cable however, can not trace where the white cable actually goes. it looks like it's tucked back under the metal restraining bracket for the spolier, which looks to be bolted in pretty good... What i'm wondering is, is the cable that's actually snapped in the picture the culprit for why the remote button doesn't release the trunk? OR... is this cable something else, a.k.a. emergency release cable? :help: See pictures below: Thanks!

Just to clarify... the motor assembly we're talking about, is that the "trunk lock actuator" we're talking about?

Any info on the replacement procedures for this?

Hey guys, I was checking out my car over the weekend (had some really nice sun for once and some decent weather). Noticed that when I push the trunk release button on the remote, trunk (rear luggage compartment) didn't open, but I heard the motor go. So I opened the hatch via the driver's side lever, took off the the little plastic locking mechanism cover, and it turns out, one of the release cables snapped. Since my Bentley Manual doesn't seem to contain info on the replacement procedures for the luggage compartment cable responsible for automatic trunk release. I figured I'd ask and see if anyone has a write-up and part #s I need to order to replace this. The inside lever cable is still intact and working fine, it's just the automatic release one that is snapped. Thanks!

Yea, I know about the replacement screen... but it's not "exactly" the same screen, involves some shaving and modification, and I wanted the OEM unit. So that's why I went with that over the replacement screen.

Hey guys, I'm considering ordering a V1 Valentine Radar Detector, but am curious how other people have mounted it. As i'm currently aware, the actual "sensors" are built into the actual unit correct? Or are there sensor you actually mount in the front and rear bumpers? My main concern is concealability. I'd ultimately like to have the indicator lights mounted in my gauge cluster, that way at night time, the only person that can really see the display is me. 2nd, I want the main unit completely concealed... I was thinking if the sensors are built into the unit, couldn't you mount just the sensors to the mirror, and the actual indicator lights elsewhere? Is there a better detection unit that allows this out of the box?

I'm very picky when it comes to the clarity of my sound. I want extremely clean highs and mid-range, and crisp bass (not boomy).... the speakers I always try to fit my car with (if possible) are JL Audio. However, the size and space you have to play with on the front dash speakers are a bit harder. I read several posts on MB Quartz, and let me tell you, they're pricy, but worth it. I installed the MB Quartz PVI-210 series for my front dash, which include a 4" woofer, and 1.5" tweeter. For the doors I replaced the woofers with the JL Audio ZR 650CSi's. Although they also come with 1.5" tweeters, I chose not to install them. I also wanted a completely "factory" looking soundstage, but there's work involved in order to achieve this. If you plan to upgrade the dash speakers, the first problem you'll come across is that there is a special "basket" fitted to the OEM speakers.... the only way to remove it is to essentially rip it off, saw it off, etc.... I didn't prefer that method. Instead, I unbolted the original woofer and tweeter from the basket and set them aside. Then I took my 4" MB quartz woofer, and surrounded the edges in an industrial strength velcro fitting to temporarily hold it in the position I wanted. Then I sealed it in with clear silicone and let sit and dry for about a day. The Tweeter I did the same thing..... I also chose to use the crossovers that come with the kit to ensure that my highs and mid-range were separated properly. As for the door speakers... you'll again notice, that the OEM speakers have a "special" encasing, and unless you use the same specification speaker size as the OEM, you're going to have difficulties upgrading them. I made my own custom "speaker encasings" made out of 3/4" Oak Plywood. There are several articles out there on the exact specifications you need to cut and fit these yourself. In addition, I wrapped the entire surround in Dynomat before fitting the new JL ZR 650 woofers. I also used the ZR Crossovers again to ensure these speakers were getting 'just the lows.' After I fit and re-wired the speaker in the baffle, dynomatted the baffle, and screwed it to the door, I then Dynomat'd the rest of the door to ensure there was a good seal, and sound proofing. (I have an article out there on my complete re-work). For a while I used the standard HAES 6 channel amp that you have, but decided that the way it was setup to handle the rear speakers and door speakers was not properly staged. So I replaced the amp with 2 JL Audio Amps located in the front trunk, and did a complete re-wire. Other than the amps, it has a completely stock look to it. I then later added the Alpine IVA-W505 Head Unit, because I wanted bluetooth, NAV, and XM capabilities. With the available installation kits out there for the AVIC series head units, it allows the new head unit to really blend in to the dash and give it that updated look without looking like it's cheap or "non-factory." I also upgraded the 4 rear speakers to JL TR 350s but that's neither here nor there since you don't plan to upgrade those. Driver's Door Complete Passenger Door Complete Amps Complete Head Unit Complete My 2 cents.