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So by any chance can you make me that same enclosure you made for yours if I gave you the specs for the sub I want to drop in? ;)

Lol, Yep... I already installed that ;) The PAC-TR7. Works like a champ.

As promised... the completed installation of the Alpine IVA-W203 with NVE1/P1 Navigation, bluetooth, and XM. :)

Hmm... I'm not so sure about this. Both doors do drop the window 1/2" however, on the Driver's side door, you pull up on the handle just a little bit (inner or outter) without yet popping the lock and the window drops the 1/2". The passenger door doesn't drop until AFTER you've pulled and opened the lock the full way on the door. So it isn't that the window isn't dropping... because it does... it just doesn't do it when you pull on the handle a little bit, only after the door starts to open a little bit does the window drop.

Thanks again for the info Juninc. I checked out your thread on your install... seems you're pretty keen on "clear sounding" audio as much as I am. In your own opinion do you think what I'm doing makes sense? So far the front dash speakers contain the MB Quartz PVI-210 series which is their premium brand of speaker. 4" woofer + 1.5" Tweeter, hooked to a cross-over. The door speakers I made the custom baffle for out of 3/4" oak surrounded in Dynamat Extreme front and back, and then replaced with the JL ZR-650 Woofers (didn't use the tweeters). Also hooked up to cross-overs (although I need to adjust them for low level only play-back, I think they're getting some mid-range right now). The 4 rear deck speakers I replaced with the JL TR-350s. The Receiver has also been changed out to the Alpine IVA-W203 / PV1 series. Right now, my thinking is as follows. I have a JL 300/4 Amp and a JL 300/2 amp that haven't been hooked up yet. Based on your response, it looks like I'll have to hardwire the plug as well. My thinking is to place the Front Dash speakers on 2 channels, and the rear deck speakers on the other 2 channels of the 300/4 amp. Thus in theory, the rears will have slightly less power going to each of the 4 speakers than the fronts, but that's ok seeing as they're really only staging speakers anyways. The 6.5" woofers in the doors will each be connected to the 300/2 amp giving them 150 watts each, which should be great considering the speakers are rated for 200 a piece. I am still debating on the subwoofer. I really like your design and would consider purchasing that housing you made for the center deck, although I would also want a switch where I could turn it off or on. I would probably prefer a smaller JL Sub, such as a 10w7 or possibly even a 8w7. I don't need to kill my ear drums, but knowing JL's subs they're usually real clean on the low bass frequencies. I'd obviously then need a 3rd mono-block amp... I think a JL 250/1 would "probably" be sufficient, I think a 500/1 would be overkill, but that may just be me. What do you think? Does this sound "sound" ;)

Juniinc, Just out of curiosity... what did you do for attaching your amp to the factory HAES amp connector? Did you end up chopping off the connector and splicing new speaker wires to it? Or were you able to make some kind of interface adapter to plug in to the factory plug? I'd prefer the later for my setup... but I haven't seen any posts on it yet. Just curious what others have done.

I "ditto" this... haven't done it yet, plan to do it this week. Installing 2 JL amps. I think the best method would be to construct a sheet of wood (like Oak Plywood) for the size of your amp(s), affix it using either rubber plugs as mentioned or with bolts screws to the OEM holes, and then mount your amp(s) to the board. The board can be placed behind the factory carpeting, or you can cover it yourself and affix it to the front of the carpeting. Check the size / space you have available to the factory amp location first. You may have to attach to the side if the amp and board you are using are too big for the space behind the tire.

The Stock DSP module looks like the following.... it's necessary for use with the stock amp depending upon which amp you have.

Thanks Man ;)

Does your system have the stock dsp module?

Hi all (again), So for those of you who haven't read my other thread on "messed up wiring," I took on the replacement of this already crappy JVC head unit the previous owner installed and found a bunch of wiring issues. BUT, I fixed it, the new Alpine IVA-W203 with the new Navigation kit work GREAT! However, some of the components that go along with it, don't exactly function correctly do to the factory HAES amp having some communication issues with the components. Essentially, I can't XM radio to work properly, as the volume control does nothing. I can't adjust the volume ;) That's not very good. Lol. The other problem is that the Alpine Audio Processor I purchased also doesn't communicate with the factory amp as it needs to adjust gain levels etc, and can't. So the decision was made for me to change out the factory amp to 2 JL Audio amps I have sitting in the garage. According to my electrical wiring diagrams and the factory HAES amp plug, the wiring is as follows: Left Door Sub Negative - Brown / Green Left Door Sub Positive - Green Left Front Mid-Range Speaker Negative - Yellow / Brown Left Front Mid-Range Speaker Positive - Yellow Left Rear Surround Speaker Negative - Brown / White Left Rear Surround Speaker Positive - White Right Rear Surround Speaker Positive - Blue Right Rear Surround Speaker Negative - Brown / Blue Right Front Mid-Range Speaker Positive - Red Right Front Mid-Range Speaker Negative - Red / Brown Right Door Sub Positive - Violet Right Door Sub Negative - Brown / Violet The million dollar question is, is there anything I can do to make my own Recepticle plug where I can un-plug the HAES amp Plug and plug it into the new makeshift one? Or am I going to be forced to chop off the connector and run it myself? I'd prefer if I didn't have to do that and I could just reuse the existing plug and make my own to plug in. Anyone done this before? Thanks

Alright... Well for those who have "PURCHASED" Alpine units, there's a special "switching" device you need to buy in order to eliminate the "Menu Locks" and "Video while driving locks"... Personally.... I just wanted all the setup menus unlocked and could care less about video while I drive. HOWEVER! I found the product. it's called the PAC TR-7. You hook it to both the foot brake leads and parking brake leads on the Receiver itself, and it does the rest. Now Everything's unlocked and working like a Champ! I got mine from Direct Source in case anyone else is interested. The AVIC D3 installation worked like a champ with a few minor tweaks. I'll take pictures later tonight, but as of right now, XM, NAV, Bluetooth, Radio, DVD, and everything else are working perfectly! :) :drive:

Alright, so new problem.... I got everything working, however It seemed I couldn't access any of the "setup menu" functions on my new Alpine W-203. After a quick phone call, they said the reason is because there's a special sequence to unlock the setup features (and I just grounded out the e-brake and foot-brake lines in an attempt to "ovverride" the forced braking playback of navigation and dvds)... turns out that doesn't work so well ;) So there's a special "sequence" you have to do every time according to the book after you've turned the car off, to unlock the console from "general" mode and get into "setup" mode. And that is: 1. Brung the vehicle to a complete stop and engage the parking brake. 2. Keep pushing the foot brake and release the parking brake once, and then re-engage it. 3. When the parking brake is engaged the second time, release the foot brake. IMHO... Alpine sure did do a # on this sequence.... is there anything I can do to try and "by-pass" this somehow, or hook these wires up someplace else? There's a Blue/Yellow wire for the parking brake, and Black/Yellow for the foot brake. ????? Help! lol :renntech:

Good point Cassiebox... I plan to replace the factory amp eventually... I actually have the amps, but I'm taking one project at a time ;) As for that then, is there a write-up somewhere on exactly "what to hack up" on the lower tray console to make A/C Control fit in the upper deck so I can just place the dsp module on the bottom where it originall was to begin with? I haven't found anything on this yet, and I'm not sure exactly what areas i need to chop off to make it fit. I've already re-located the wire harnes for it though.

Well, I completed all the wire arrangements... got some connectors and made my own harness, tested the new Alpine 203 Unit, and at first I didn't get any sound... so I thought maybe it was the alpine audio processor I got. Checked that it was all good.... turns out, there's a dependancy where you HAVE to have the factory Nokia Porsche DSP module hooked up. Has anyone been able to get around this? Reason I ask is because I'm re-locating the A/C unit to the upper bottom tier, and I'd like to put in a storage compartment in place of the factory DSP module. Is there anyway I can possible force it to think it's connected and have it operate in the "off" mode? Please let me know if you can. Otherwise, it looks like i won't be able to have a storage compartment and will have to keep it hooked up.

Thanks Koen, although I'm not sure I follow... is there somewhere I need to hook this up on my new radio then? Or can I just leave it hanging?

Oh believe you me Beelzy... if I knew the joker who did this... I would SOOOooooo be in the mood for some serious beat downs.... what a mess...

Well today finally came, the day I decided to take on replace the crappy JVC the previous :censored: owner decided to put in my Boxster S. So I was all excited to see my long awaited Alpine IVA-W203 with Navigation and XM and all the cables and installation kits galore arive today on my front porch.... That was until I actually began dissassembling the center dash pieces to take out the JVC unit... So let's get RIGHT to the pictures shall we? :lol: So here we have the crappy JVC head unit the last numbskull decided "was a good idea" to put in a Porsche. And now the fun begins.... After removing ALL of this (Please note the fine job of duck tape, exposed wires and... WTF is that?? Oh on closer inspection, it's an exposed transformer.... how thoughtful! And then of course I had to remove all of this... Just so I could discover this..... An original Black Porsche radio plug, and wait a minute.... WHERE'S THE YELLOW ONE??? Oh and this fine outstanding job of cutting the brown wire close to the plug and splicing in some green cable... Now I have to reconnect this to the harness somehow. Here's where the yellow plug SHOULD be... but it's not, instead it's just chopped wires now. So then I take off the left trim piece, where the Traction Control, Rear Spoiler, and Rain Delay Timer all sit, I find the "Yellow" connector for the Traction Control is fine... but for the spoiler, it's just a bunch of crimped spade connectors spliced together to some other wires, Isn't there supossed to be an actual plug for this? I also found this in that same compartment, it's a blue and brown wire by itself, and it wasn't hooked up to anything... Alright so now that all that is out of the way... :soapbox: I need some serious help to get this out of control wire situation a bit more "hassle free." #1) The Yellow Radio Power plug, that SHOULD be present, but isn't... is now 6 unconnected wires. I'd like to get a hold of the original factory plug that I can attach these back to. Does anyone have a clue where I could get that and those special snap in wire clips porsche uses to put their wires into these plugs? Part #'s? #2) Those 5 wires for the spolier, is that the way those really came or can I get a plug for this guy too? If so where can I get that plug. Part #'s? #3) What is that brown / blue wire / plug for that I said wasn't connected to anything? In my particular setup, I have the HAES amp The Nokia DSP module which is hooked up via this guy... So question #4) Does this need to hook up to anything in my setup if I plan to throw out the DSP module in order to get sound or anything? I figured with the Alpine unit I'm installing, and the Imprint Module, I should have enough tuning where I don't need to hook anything up to that anymore and I can just not worry about it. Question #5) is a routing question... I've purchased both navigation and XM which both have antennae that need to be placed in "preferably" inconspicuous places. Which can I place in the "security alarm light" area? The XM or the NAV? Where's a good place for the other? I know this is a pretty lengthy post... but I want to make sure my car has "GOOD" wiring #1 and isn't all hacked up. and #2 I just can't stand it when people don't take the time to do it right the first time around and then leave it for me to clean up! :cursing: I REALLY appreciate everyone's input and help here, my garage is basically "waiting" with parts and wires all over the place right now until I can order the right parts to fix the beast ;) Please let me know! :renntech:

Gotcha, ok, well then If i'm going to replace the microswitches in the passenger side door for the window, does anyone have the Part # and qty i'll need? Thanks!

Hey guys, I typically don't have a lot of passengers in my 00' Boxster S, so I have no idea if this is an issue or not. Anyways, I was messing around in my garage yesterday and went to grab something off the passenger seat from the passenger side of the vehicle. Now, with the top up, I notice that if I gently pull the door handle either on the inside, or the outside of the vehicle the window lowers slightly (and I've seen the posts on this). However, I'm not sure if the passenger side was designed to do the same thing or not. Right now, the door window doesn't move (both when opening from the inside and outside) until after the release is actually activated. Is this a problem? or was it designed that way? If it is a problem, and it's suposed to operated the exact same way that the driver's side door operates, than i imagine it's the micro-switches that need to be replaced. I assume just replacing all of them rather than the faulty one. Anyone know the PN# on these if that's the case? advTHanKSce

Hmmm.... yea, basically, I plan to finish mine a little different, so i don't know if i need to run new speaker wire or not. Right now the current architecture is setup as follows: Front Dash - MB Quartz PVI-210 4" woofers and 1.6" Tweeters hooked to a MB Quartz crossover on each side Rear Speaker Upgrade - Has been upgraded to 4 JL Audio TR-350x speakers (and I don't know the what the factory amp outs on these are) Door Speakers - have JL Audio ZR-650 Woofers hooked to the JL Audio crossovers on each side There's a really crappy Jensen head that someone installed before I got the car The Porsche factory DSP module was somehow hooked to this module The Porsche factory amp still remains What I'm TRYING to do is the following: Replace the crappy jensen head unit with the Alpine IVA-W203 + P1NAV Remove the Porsche factory DSP Module, and move the A/C controls in it's place, replace with the alpine PXA-H100 Imprint Module. Remove the single Porsche Factory Amp and replace with 2 amps... a JL 300/4 (4 channel) and a JL 300 / 2 (2 Channel). In regards to the amps themselves, I would like to wire them as follows: Front Dash MB Quartz will be run to the Front Inputs on the 300 / 4 amp, using 2 channels. Rear Speaker Deck will be run to the Rear Inputs on the 300 / 4 amp, using 2 channels. Door Speakers will be run to the Inputs on the 300 / 2 amp. Thus the breakout is as follows: Fronts Speakers will consume 75 watts per side Rear Speakers will consume 37.5 watts per speaker Door speakers will receive 150 watts per speaker I'm not sure what all the pin-outs are.

On that note... I've always wondered how you're supossed to run new "speaker" wire from your door speakers if you're hooking up aftermarket amps? It's not like you put in the door wiring harness as it's all sealed in rubber. How have others done this?

Hmm I believe the factory rears are 10.5 offet correct? So these rims will screw that up if they're 10?

In regards to this... is there a good way to get all 4 tires off for the winter to prevent flat marks on the tires? Reason I ask, is because I currently have 1 puck adapter, and I can't find any other good locations other than where the holes are for jacking, and I'd like to place the car on stands for the winter without worrying about flat marks. Just wondering how everyone else is doing this... :huh:

Hey guys, I've been looking at rims to put on my 00' Boxster S 3.2L 6-speed which has factory 18" rims now, and I think I've decided on a style. The rims are 19x10 and 19x8.5, what Tire size would I need for this application to work ensuring there's no rubbing, and doesn't effect the spedometer etc. Thanks!