fpb111

Your original setup sounds like Boxster wheels 7.5" and 9". Also I have never seen "Turbo" look wheels that look like the pic in post #1. The wheels in post #5 look like "Turbo" look wheels.

On the "winter wheels" I would mount a 285/35-18 summer tire on the 11" wide rim. That is the size Porsche recommended when using 10" wide x 18" for my 2003 C2.

I think a 265 is recommended for rims 9" to 10.5" Check the continental specs on tire rack

http://www.tirerack....3&autoModel=911 Carrera Cabriolet&autoModClar=&tab=Specs

Possible option?

http://www.autofarm.co.uk/engines/water_cooled/shaft_tech2

Close enough seems to work fine.

I can't see it clearly the tree is in the way. It Is it the car in the driveway between the white house and the gray house right?

You also might want to read through this thread. It gets interesting ~ post #33

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/40538-casper-labs-ceramic-ims-bearing/page__st__20

Double check behind the spare before you buy another one.

Just returned to my car in the supermarket parking lot, to find someone let a shopping cart go in the wind and it's dented my car. Smaller than average cart, with plastic edges so it just made a dent without any scratches. Looks simple to repair, golf ball-sized and **** near a perfect circle, just behind the driver's door. Anyone got any advice on whether a dentless repair shop could just 'pop' this out? Looking for some input before I start visiting the vultures, as I previously heard aluminum is harder to work with.

aluminum?

+2 on Dentless repair

I had a tree branch fall on the area between the rear deck lid and the convertable top cover leaving a large shallow dent. I pulled the CHMSL to give him access and left it at AutoHaus in Chatham, they had three cars there for the PDR guy, you can get a better deal if the call out charge is split between more cars. I can't even tell where it was now, cost was $65.

Get a magnetic drain plug,

http://www.lnengineering.com/drainplug.html

Or consider a Flat Six "Guardian"

http://www.flat6innovations.com/ims-guardian-home

Bad that your engine fell victim to D-chunk. Good that you decided on a DIY. It sounds like you will end up with an improved engine. Please keep us informed of progress.

Blizzaks are very hard to get in larger C4 correct sizes. That said smaller are often used for winter. They look like aftermarket rims. See "Not Original Equipment" molded inside of spoke in 2nd pic.

$400-600 for the set depending on the date stamp on the tires. Over 8 years old would be suspect, over 10 toss them.

http://blog.tirerack...re-they-too-old

That cut would not bother me if no cord shows in the "scuffed" area. The rib on the tire is there to provide some protection for the rim. Pull the screw and if it goes through patch it from the inside and run them in the winter.

And for all of OMG if you patch it you have to cut the speed rating in half! Just how fast do you drive in the snow?

I have the same size and style of rim, don't know who made them, for my snows on my 2003 C2. Wish they were Blizzaks!

Check out the Rennlist thread mentioned at the end. The spring is not hard to replace. Porsche says not to lube it but some have. I think there might be a TSB on it here in the TSB pages.

From this blog;

http://www.oz951.com...c/996newbie.htm

"Clutch feel & stalling

I've been driving my 996 for a month or two and I had noticed that I come close to stalling the car quite regularly when going over a particular massive speed bump or manoeuvering into parking spaces. Now I have discovered that lots of 996 owners who are quite familiar with driving manual cars also experience this issue with the 996. It turns out there is a helper spring attached to the clutch pedal which serves to make the pedal operation very light but at the same time it makes it a lot harder to feel the point of engagement of the clutch. Removing the spring increases the pressure required to operate the clutch but gives you the feel you'd expect. Details here - Rennlist clutch pedal thread"

I am @ 10k, not as noisey as the Michelins were at this tread depth. Prob ~15% tread left on inner rears. 6 speed 2003 C2s Cab. No track no autoX on the tires.

Maybe it is the C4?

AOS can make squeak when starting to fail, often turns to howl as it gets worse.

Another good battery thread

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/996-forum/618336-had-to-upgrade-my-battery-after-2-5-years-on-group-48-replacement-battery.html

I replaced an Interstate MTP-H7 With a Braille 7548 AGM battery direct replacement.

Braille AGM B7548 battery group 48

BCI Group: [?]Group 48

Length:10.9" (277mm)

Width:6.8" (173mm)

Height (without posts):7.5" (191mm)

http://www.braillebattery.com/index....tteries/b7548#

Interstate sizes that fit 2003 996

Group

Size Interstate Type CCA1 CA/

MCA2 RC3

(Min.) Warranty

(Months) Dimensions (inches)

L x W x H Posts

H6 (48) MTP-H6 640 800 121 85 10-15/16 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top

H7 (94R) MTP-H7 640 800 135 85 12-3/8 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top

H8 (49) MTP-H8 720 900 176 85 13-15/16 x 6-7/8 x 7-1/5 Top

Jacked by the engine lug? Might be time to change the other one also.

Did you open the fuel cap while it was making the noise? To rule out the evap system.

FR5DTC has a 0.5mm gap. Maybe the Tpc supercharger feels they are harder to "blow out the spark" with the higher cylinder pressure from the supercharger. Bosch lists these plugs for 1990s 911 Porsche

Bosch recommends FGR6KQE although most places seem to recommend one heat range cooler a FGR5KQE. Both are 4 electrode "Surface Gap" plugs with a 1.6mm (0.062") gap, marked on the end of the box.

Not too many 7k rpm clutch drops here but definately "drive it like you stole it" driving.

http://jalopnik.com/5869774/eight-minutes-of-porsche-911-gt3-rally-car-goodness

Logray,

Are you running the NGK BKR6E KUB (7969)? Is Bosch FGR5 or 6KQE the OEM listed replacement? I ask because the NGK has 0.8MM gap with Bosch 1.6mm.

Possible thrust bearing issue letting crank/flywheel float too much causing misalignment "rattle" and or contact? Have someone step on the clutch while you watch the crank pulley.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/40272-so-is-this-issue-grave/

I know you had someone look at it. But are you/they sure it isn't the flex coupling on the cardon shaft? Porsche does not sell it separately, only the whole shaft @~$700.00. Others do offer it as stand alone part.

Driveshaft flex disc - C4 and Turbo

These folks list the OEM Porsche replacement for $75 KO Performance in Florida.

I found it in their 2004 C4 parts list.

http://www.koperformance.com/

Part #: 102539005-57

KO Price: $74.61

Shipping: $0.00 - FREE Shipping! - & *Ship Group

Stock Status: In Stock - Ready to Ship!

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Book #: 10 2539 005

Description: Driveshaft Flex Disc

Applications: Carrera 4 99 thru 05

Manufacturer: O.E.M.

If it is more of a hot rubber smell it could be the rubber "dust" from the tires that is kicked up onto the mufflers and cooked.

Gap is right. If you adjust the gap too small it will rub the paint off.

Check to see that he window seal is straight and tucked into the top all of the way. Maybe rubber lube the seal? Leave the window up and pretend it is a coupe until spring?

Thanks all for the incredible feedback.

I'm finding what I need is a reliable indie shop in South New Jersey. Anyone have a suggestion?

Bodymotion is one. They did a friends engine and he was/is happy with the result. http://www.bodymotion.com/

If you can get it to Power Tech in Rockaway they are very good with these engines. http://www.pwr-tech.com/