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fpb111 replied to johnmh's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Vent valve = number 21 here? http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=986-97-04§ion=201-00&pn=99620175100#a I bet your problem is #25 which has the reed switch, combined with #11 Look at comments #6 -12 https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/106-FUEL-Replacing_Your_Fuel_Line_Vent_Valve/106-FUEL-Replacing_Your_Fuel_Line_Vent_Valve.htm
fpb111 replied to sky217's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Porsche keys have 4 components, outer shell, transponder pill to talk to the immobilizer, circuit board that transmits signals to lock/unlock the car, and blade to unlock the ign switch and steering wheel lock. The pill and circuit board must be introduced to the car in order to work. If you just transfer the pill and the blade you will have a key that has no remote. You must also transfer the board, which in your case is probably bad. If that key head comes with a board you will have to have the dealer program it into the car.
fpb111 replied to Zakowsky's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)PCM 2.0 with software update 3.0, like yours, worked with 000 044 901 21 2008 updated CDs my 2004 TT with no dealer interaction needed. Today I am ordering the new 2015 update, # 000 044 902 31, CD set from https://parts.porscheofannapolis.com/oem-parts/porsche-software-update-pcm2-00004490231 $244.82
fpb111 replied to judibake's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)You got the special one? Looks like the last micro switch in the close sequence needs to be reset. I don't know which one it is, sorry.
Another data point. I replaced the clutch disk, PP, TO bearing, Fork, and pivot on my 2003 C2 Cab while addressing a leaking RMS @~ 35k. The Sachs replacement clutch pack would occasionally squeal as yours does. I went back in to do the IMS when the ceramic replacement part and procedure were first offered @~50k. I replaced the disk at that time and never heard the squeal again. So in my case I figured the squeal I heard was the disk. YMMV
Revisiting this topic due to my radiators failing. Quick background, I just bought this turbo Nov 2015. The car has only 18k miles over 12 years of service This spring I pulled the bumper to clean the radiators. The back 1/4 was packed with what looked like cement that I could not wash out from either side with garden hose pressure. An added bonus was many pin holes. I bought and mounted set of 3 CSF radiators. (~$1,600 plus 8 hoses ~$318 and 3 gallons of VW/Audi coolant $78) The CSF fit was excellent and so far no more leaks.
One of my friends had to get a repeater to make his home link work. It works fine now. I was betting on the "program with the existing hand held" and then introducing car to the opener.
Does your mirror look like one of these? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVimUd-xYKc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvoKBm7h3aY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BseDur3LG0
fpb111 replied to judibake's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)Salt water causes stainless to "corrode" lose it's passive layer. http://www.bssa.org.uk/faq.php?id=9 What forms of corrosion can occur in stainless steels? The most common forms of corrosion in stainless steel are: Pitting corrosion - The passive layer on stainless steel can be attacked by certain chemical species. The chloride ion Cl- is the most common of these and is found in everyday materials such as salt and bleach. Pitting corrosion is avoided by making sure that stainless steel does not come into prolonged contact with harmful chemicals or by choosing a grade of steel which is more resistant to attack. The pitting corrosion resistance can be assessed using the Pitting Resistance Equivalent Number calculated from the alloy content. Crevice corrosion - Stainless steel requires a supply of oxygen to make sure that the passive layer can form on the surface. In very tight crevices, it is not always possible for the oxygen to gain access to the stainless steel surface thereby causing it to be vulnerable to attack. Crevice corrosion is avoided by sealing crevices with a flexible sealant or by using a more corrosion resistant grade. General corrosion - Normally, stainless steel does not corrode uniformly as do ordinary carbon and alloy steels. However, with some chemicals, notably acids, the passive layer may be attacked uniformly depending on concentration and temperature and the metal loss is distributed over the entire surface of the steel. Hydrochloric acid and sulphuric acid at some concentrations are particular aggressive towards stainless steel. Stress corrosion cracking (SCC) - This is a relatively rare form of corrosion which requires a very specific combination of tensile stress, temperature and corrosive species, often the chloride ion, for it to occur. Typical applications where SCC can occur are hot water tanks and swimming pools. Another form known as sulphide stress corrosion cracking (SSCC) is associated with hydrogen sulphide in oil and gas exploration and production. Intergranular corrosion - This is now quite a rare form of corrosion. If the Carbon level in the steel is too high, Chromium can combine with Carbon to form Chromium Carbide. This occurs at temperatures between about 450-850 deg C. This process is also called sensitisation and typically occurs during welding. The Chromium available to form the passive layer is effectively reduced and corrosion can occur. It is avoided by choosing a low carbon grade the so-called 'L' grades or by using a steel with Titanium or Niobium which preferentially combines with Carbon. Galvanic corrosion - If two dissimilar metals are in contact with each other and with an electrolyte e.g. water or other solution, it is possible for a galvanic cell to be set up. This is rather like a battery and can accelerate corrosion of the less 'noble' metal. It can avoided by separating the metals with a non-metallic insulator such as rubber.
Park the car close to the door opener motor. Press the "learn" button on the motor, within (20 seconds?) press the button on the remote that you want to control that door. Hold it until the flashing light on the remote changes frequency. IE: slows down or speeds up - done. Google "Home Link" instructions. Pressing the two outside buttons simultaneously erases remote stored codes.
You may have already figured this out but just in case. The rubber that dropped is the grommet that holds the temp sensor in the metal bracket. If you haven't already done so put the grommet onto the sensor and then push it into the bracket.