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About fpb111

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  • Birthday 03/04/1950

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    PCA driving instructor since 1986

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    Chatham NJ USA
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    PCA (Porsche Club of America)
  • Present cars
    2004 996 X50 Turbo cab, 2013 Scion XB, 2010 Outback 3.6R, BMW 1998 R1100RT
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    2004 996 TT X50 CAB
    2003 996 Porsche Cab
    1956 Ford F100 panel Van E/W 318 Pontiac & 4speed fun build
    1956 Jaguar XK140 MC roadster
    1959 MK9 Jaguar
    1962 XKE
    1960 Alfa Milano
    1963 XKE
    1970 911S
    1972 911 "RS"
    1978 911

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  1. Vent valve = number 21 here? http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/hardparts.php?dir=986-97-04&section=201-00&pn=99620175100#a I bet your problem is #25 which has the reed switch, combined with #11 Look at comments #6 -12 https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/106-FUEL-Replacing_Your_Fuel_Line_Vent_Valve/106-FUEL-Replacing_Your_Fuel_Line_Vent_Valve.htm
  2. Porsche keys have 4 components, outer shell, transponder pill to talk to the immobilizer, circuit board that transmits signals to lock/unlock the car, and blade to unlock the ign switch and steering wheel lock. The pill and circuit board must be introduced to the car in order to work. If you just transfer the pill and the blade you will have a key that has no remote. You must also transfer the board, which in your case is probably bad. If that key head comes with a board you will have to have the dealer program it into the car.
  3. If you stay with a dual mass flywheel the trans noise at idle will be more noticeable but not as loud as a lightweight single mass unit with an unsprung disk.
  4. I wanted to keep mine stock so I recently bought the 2015 updated CD set from Annapolis Porsche for under $300.
  5. PCM 2.0 with software update 3.0, like yours, worked with 000 044 901 21 2008 updated CDs my 2004 TT with no dealer interaction needed. Today I am ordering the new 2015 update, # 000 044 902 31, CD set from https://parts.porscheofannapolis.com/oem-parts/porsche-software-update-pcm2-00004490231 $244.82
  6. Wow! Who doesn't? Bilstein, Koni, KW, H&R, KYB... It depends on what you want to achieve.
  7. You got the special one? Looks like the last micro switch in the close sequence needs to be reset. I don't know which one it is, sorry.
  8. Another data point. I replaced the clutch disk, PP, TO bearing, Fork, and pivot on my 2003 C2 Cab while addressing a leaking RMS @~ 35k. The Sachs replacement clutch pack would occasionally squeal as yours does. I went back in to do the IMS when the ceramic replacement part and procedure were first offered @~50k. I replaced the disk at that time and never heard the squeal again. So in my case I figured the squeal I heard was the disk. YMMV
  9. Revisiting this topic due to my radiators failing. Quick background, I just bought this turbo Nov 2015. The car has only 18k miles over 12 years of service This spring I pulled the bumper to clean the radiators. The back 1/4 was packed with what looked like cement that I could not wash out from either side with garden hose pressure. An added bonus was many pin holes. I bought and mounted set of 3 CSF radiators. (~$1,600 plus 8 hoses ~$318 and 3 gallons of VW/Audi coolant $78) The CSF fit was excellent and so far no more leaks.
  10. One of my friends had to get a repeater to make his home link work. It works fine now. I was betting on the "program with the existing hand held" and then introducing car to the opener.
  11. Does your mirror look like one of these? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVimUd-xYKc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvoKBm7h3aY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BseDur3LG0
  12. Salt water causes stainless to "corrode" lose it's passive layer. http://www.bssa.org.uk/faq.php?id=9 What forms of corrosion can occur in stainless steels? The most common forms of corrosion in stainless steel are: Pitting corrosion - The passive layer on stainless steel can be attacked by certain chemical species. The chloride ion Cl- is the most common of these and is found in everyday materials such as salt and bleach. Pitting corrosion is avoided by making sure that stainless steel does not come into prolonged contact with harmful chemicals or by choosing a grade of steel whic
  13. Park the car close to the door opener motor. Press the "learn" button on the motor, within (20 seconds?) press the button on the remote that you want to control that door. Hold it until the flashing light on the remote changes frequency. IE: slows down or speeds up - done. Google "Home Link" instructions. Pressing the two outside buttons simultaneously erases remote stored codes.
  14. You may have already figured this out but just in case. The rubber that dropped is the grommet that holds the temp sensor in the metal bracket. If you haven't already done so put the grommet onto the sensor and then push it into the bracket.
  15. That looks interesting. Did you try it? If so how did it work?
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